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Joined: Apr 2002
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Since Bruce is doing frequent water changes pH would have to be lowered each time. That could become time consuming.
CB1 do you know how a lowered pH affects the denitrifying bacteria?
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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The lower you go, the less effective they are. A PH, generally around 6.0 or below will kill your biofilter.
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From my experience with galvanized tanks and epoxy though (even with acid etching etc.) the epoxy eventually deteriorates somewhere and allows water underneath it. You're better off sticking with plastic or fiberglass if you have a choice. You didn't get what I told you to get. The epoxy I pointed out is commonly used at waste water treatment facilities submerged in the poo poo tanks, and is guaranteed for 20 years in such service if properly applied and cured. It's best if ya don't have to mess with the stuff tho. A novice can screw it up pretty bad!
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From my experience with galvanized tanks and epoxy though (even with acid etching etc.) the epoxy eventually deteriorates somewhere and allows water underneath it. You're better off sticking with plastic or fiberglass if you have a choice. You didn't get what I told you to get. The epoxy I pointed out is commonly used at waste water treatment facilities submerged in the poo poo tanks, and is guaranteed for 20 years in such service if properly applied and cured. It's best if ya don't have to mess with the stuff tho. A novice can screw it up pretty bad! That's the kicker. It's not easy getting something to stick to galvanizing, not easy at all.
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That's the kicker. It's not easy getting something to stick to galvanizing, not easy at all. Very common and durable practice. It's called a duplex system. Follow ASTM D6386 for preparing the galvanized surface.
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Since Bruce is doing frequent water changes pH would have to be lowered each time. That could become time consuming.
CB1 do you know how a lowered pH affects the denitrifying bacteria? First of all it's not that big of a deal as you just add a little acid for every water change. Muriatic acid is cheap and a gallon lasts weeks in a system the size of Bruce's. We do this all the time in aquaponic set ups. As far as lowered ph effecting nitrifying bacteria as long as the ph is dropped gradually the bacteria will adapt. In aquaponics 6.8 to 7.0 is a compromise as the plants like it even lower, but you don't want to go lower than 6.8 for the bacteria.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 11/30/13 01:28 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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I agree that it is a common and durable practice. Just not one that a hobby aquaculturist could easily do in their basement or workshop. Key word being easy.
For arguments sake, say you had a 300 gallon galvanized stock tank that was previously in use for 10 months, and you needed to epoxy paint the inside for use for aquaculture. What would it cost to prep the tank according to ASTM D6386? Once the tank was prepped, how long of an interval would be acceptable before the epoxy was painted on? For instance, could Cecil do the prep work correctly at his house?
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The lower you go, the less effective they are. A PH, generally around 6.0 or below will kill your biofilter. No need to go that low. Even the fish won't like it that low.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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From my experience with galvanized tanks and epoxy though (even with acid etching etc.) the epoxy eventually deteriorates somewhere and allows water underneath it. You're better off sticking with plastic or fiberglass if you have a choice. You didn't get what I told you to get. The epoxy I pointed out is commonly used at waste water treatment facilities submerged in the poo poo tanks, and is guaranteed for 20 years in such service if properly applied and cured. It's best if ya don't have to mess with the stuff tho. A novice can screw it up pretty bad! All it takes is a pin hole. Even the best epoxy isn't 100 percent over time. That comes from an expert.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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I agree that it is a common and durable practice. Just not one that a hobby aquaculturist could easily do in their basement or workshop. Key word being easy.
For arguments sake, say you had a 300 gallon galvanized stock tank that was previously in use for 10 months, and you needed to epoxy paint the inside for use for aquaculture. What would it cost to prep the tank according to ASTM D6386? Once the tank was prepped, how long of an interval would be acceptable before the epoxy was painted on? For instance, could Cecil do the prep work correctly at his house?
It's really irrelavent from my personal experience. Even though I got two 300 gallon tanks via bartering, by the time i bought the epoxy and did the acid etching and applied the epoxy,it would have been cheaper to just purchase a plastic stock tank. In my case I located a supplier of plastic tanks with minor defects and got by even cheaper. Another downside to galvanized stock tanks was the ribbing tends to collect solids.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Posts: 6,692 |
I agree that it is a common and durable practice. Just not one that a hobby aquaculturist could easily do in their basement or workshop. Key word being easy.
For arguments sake, say you had a 300 gallon galvanized stock tank that was previously in use for 10 months, and you needed to epoxy paint the inside for use for aquaculture. What would it cost to prep the tank according to ASTM D6386? Once the tank was prepped, how long of an interval would be acceptable before the epoxy was painted on? For instance, could Cecil do the prep work correctly at his house? That wasn't the point I was making, but no, he could not prep a new or even 10 month old tank properly in his basement. That's why the new stock tank I bought a few years ago is outside getting aged. Just a simple cleaning, let it dry thoroughly and shoot it. I doubt I'll ever use it tho. Too much of a PITA. I think I'll get a couple cows
Last edited by JKB; 11/30/13 01:03 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692 |
The lower you go, the less effective they are. A PH, generally around 6.0 or below will kill your biofilter. No need to go that low. Even the fish won't like it that low. I was pointing out Death!!!
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Hall of Fame Lunker
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The lower you go, the less effective they are. A PH, generally around 6.0 or below will kill your biofilter. No need to go that low. Even the fish won't like it that low. I was pointing out Death!!! For what the fish or the bacteria?
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692 |
Bacteria. Pretty much gonna be toast about then.
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