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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 388 Likes: 5
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OP
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 388 Likes: 5 |
VERY NICE!!!!!
I'm not sure . Are you on Geo-Thermal?
"If you aim at nothing you'll hit it every time" Zig Ziglar
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 388 Likes: 5
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OP
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 388 Likes: 5 |
Got a meeting set up with a guy at a local supply house we deal with. Any good question's , tips etc...... anyone can think of to bring to the table???? Thanks.
"If you aim at nothing you'll hit it every time" Zig Ziglar
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 202
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 202 |
Some details of the cabin plans would help.
Plan for a forced air system for circulation.
Constant fan circulation is best with a fresh air intake for the ducting (or better yet a power exchanger) and if you like things to be super quiet plan a section of flex in each run to cut out the blower noise. I also hate pinging ducts so address this when building.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,315 |
Gotcha...... By all means. Any info,pic's, etc.... would be great. Thanks. Sorry it took so long to respond: Heat source is an outdoor wood boiler. Water comes in and flows over the pipe of domestic hot water(DHW) by means of a jacket that surrounds the pipe. The water from the boiler never mixes with the DHW. The DHW tank is piped from the drain on the bottom back to the top, and the water being heated makes it circulate back into the tank and heats the whole tank, coldest water leaving tank at bottom to begin the process all over again. Electric source is turned off while it's being used, turned back on during the summer. Mixing valve is needed so the water that is used at the faucet doesn't scald anyone. Needed because you don't have an electric switch that controls the heater(it is unplugged), and yes it gets that hot. Hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have questions...
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