Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations need help picking a fish feeder

Hi I'm getting a head start on looking for a fish feeder for next spring after spending last summer hand feeding my pond I have read lost of post on here about cheaper feeders some good some bad, and understand that Texas hunter feeders are one othe best but can't justify paying that much for a feeders for my small 1/2 acre pond. I was thinking either a moultrie directional feeder or a wildgame innovations directional feeder does es anybody have experience with either of these to fish feeders. I live right next to the pond and can tend to it on a regular basis, but still would like for it to be reliable any opinions would be greatly appreciated or ideas of any others cheaper feeders out there.

Well this is what I have used and it worked great.

Feeder.

Fish feeder base.

So the feeder is for deer. This gave me a 200# capacity and three legs. The Fish feeder power head bolts right on no problems. You can mod a half moon if you want on the deer feeder head if you want to as well.

I put the two legs in the water and the third on shore where I could read and adjust the timer. The legs easy snap together with a straight pipe extender then the leg with base. I took the one straight pipe extender out of the one leg on shore to be 18"s shorter. This let me sit the feeder anywhere on shore and it sits level with the feed spinner over the water too just in case of spills.

Put 150#s of feed through it with out any problems all year.

Cheers Don.

Thanks Don does the moultrie fish feeder do a good job throwing feed out there.Curious to if I could place it on the edge of my dock with out feed falling to the base of the feeder.

What I use is a Wildgame Fish/Game Feeder TH-DX1. It works most of the time, but can jam with smaller feed easily. I have had it running since may of 2012. In that time the back side of the plastic feed channel or to put it another way the back half (fixed) of the circular feed channel has worn through the plastic and I have since had to patch the hole. I decided to reinforce the whole back half while I was at it, so I do not know how much longer it will last. The feed distribution motor and flapper (metal) that throws the feed out still work. I have not yet had to replace the feed motor that is connected to the feed drive (rubber part) either. The feeder is a directional feeder as well.

Some of the feed,say 10%( APPROX) falls on the ground and the critters eat it or my dog(DOG is PHAT!). The rest is pretty well distributed out into the pond. Note the feeder is less than 2 feet from the edge of the pond.

All that said it is cheaper than the TX Hunter, lasted about 15 to 16 months with nothing but jams( Hole repaired at 14 months) to correct and a total of 250lbs of feed (Approx.) run through the feeder.

I am going to venture to say the TX hunter owners will tell a somewhat, to a much better story, than my current feeder experience.


I have heard much good on the TX Hunter( which I am going to buy one soon) but bought the cheaper unit,knowing it is more of a throw away unit.

From all I have read the TX Hunter is hands down a quality unit for day in and day out use. Even people who have many pounds a day of feed to distribute, have little or no issue as far as I have read on PB.

IMO if, you as you say, can supervise the feeder(unjam)and fix wear holes in the plastic and stuff like that, you can possibly get a few years out of it. Good luck and let us know what you get and its lifespan,when it kicks.

With the #6 martin feed I was feeding and mixing in #2.5 it worked flawless all year. I could get 30 feet max out of the throw if I tipped it back a touch. It would dribble a few once in a while when shutting off.

Same as above the dog would head right for the feeder and gobble up what blew to shore if the wind was towards the feeder. The feed would blow up against the shore and in the rocks. This will happen with all feeders if your feeding mostly floating feed.

Cheers Don.

What size food will the Moultrie handle ?

Here you go. Remingtion deer feeder put a wild game battery and solar panel on it and I never have to change the battery. 85 bucks for the feeder 40 bucks for the solar panel and batt. Holds 3 or so 50 lbs bags of AM 600 and on high it slings it pretty good. Only downfall is you have to go out in your boat to fill it or use a step ladder which I have done a few times as mine is only in 5 feet of water.

Works like a charm for smaller ponds and not real deep feeding spots.It will sling food out about 8 to 10 feet in a 360 which is nice cause your smaller fish get food too then that are closer to shore. Just a thought anyway.

RC

Ewest I been feeding nutrena sportsmen choice fish food its 36% protein and ranges in size from 1/16 to1/4 inch pellets.

Does anybody make one that runs on 110 volts?

I will have power at my dock and it would be really easy to run it to a feeder where I wouldn't have to worry about a solar panel or a battery.

It's easy to step 110 down to 12v.

Thanks. Will it handle AM 600 , 9/32 ?

Are you talking about a 12vdc output power supply running a motor?

yep. Running a 12v motor.

I don't see anything fancy about the motors in feeders. Just everyday 12vdc motors.

Anyway,
With a standard 12vdc power supply (something cheap), you'll want to know what the motor amps are (really important), then select a power supply that has at least double the output amps as the motor requires, and hopefully a decent overload factor. Otherwise, you'll crowbar the power supply and the motor won't work worth a crap. (power supply will fall over and won't recover) Put a glass type automotive fuse (250vac/125vdc) rated for the output current of the power supply to the feeder on the positive side, just in case there is a short circuit, then you won't fry your power supply.

Radio Shack or a similar vendor should have something reasonable.

You can buy power supplies that are rated for motors, but you will have much less money for feed. You can also get 12vdc motor controllers, which can also be expensive.

Recently did a project with 24vdc motors at 5 amps. Used a 10 amp output power supply with a 150% overload for 114 bucks, and the world was still spinning properly. Could have spent 500.00+ on a different power supply, but not at all necessary. Very common practice in my world, and the motor people will also tell you this.

See, that wasn't so difficult.

Me, on the other hand, would swap all the motors out with PMAC's, and on the spinner plate would pre magnetize the motor for about 10 seconds, launch frequency set at 500Hz, and launch to full speed at 10ms. There would be feed flying! Probably would blow the feeder up tho (just kidding of course, that would be really expensive!)

Hey, my first DIY post

You dont need to double, put place a suitable capacitor on the power supply to source the initial surge. You can get those at Radioshack or even better, Digikey. Something in the 4700uf at 25V will do for most smaller 12vdc motors. Larger motors will require more, maybe 10x more, but it is far cheaper than oversizing a power supply.

Let me know what the motor requires, and I can pick the parts for you.

Just trying to keep it simple, safe and effective, with no down time issues.

Most power supplies will handle a surge, so I don't think that's why the motor manufacturers recommend doubling the output for a dc motor.

Would the capacitor be strong enough to give a person that wasn't well coordinated a jolt if they handled it wrong?

Would knowing the in-line fuse amperage work as a substitute for knowing the motor amperage?

Unless your power supply is a Class 2 or SELV rated device, there could potentially be much higher voltages on the output of the power supply. (you read it: SELV ) I would not worry about it with a motor or solenoid, but would with expensive electronics or where personal safety is involved. You can get the gist of what I am saying here, and the possible potential.

Generally, your fuses will be rated higher than the full load, so you may over kill the size of the power supply a bit by using line fuse size.

I wonder how the electronics on a feeder would handle a potential over voltage?

To be honest with you, I would not worry about it. Just size the power supply properly and let the feed fly!

If you rub two Nickles together too much, they will eventually be worthless! (I like that)

Simple??? Dang it man that's your version of simple...

LOL!! My solar panel took 1 drill bit a screw driver and ten minutes and I havent messed with mine in 6 months!! Guess we have two very different versions of simple!!

RC

RC, I'm with you... My head is spinning more than the fish feeder after all that...

JKB, I'll have to have you come down and hook it up for me so I don't explode... Lol!!

Yea, sounds like its a whole lot cheaper and easier to just buy the solar charger than hook it up to an electric source. Perhaps there is a feeder that is manufactured to run on 110v.

It really is simple, just replacing the battery with an appropriate DC power supply.

Connect the Red lead to the Red terminal (+), the Black lead to the Black terminal (-). Grab the power cord from the power supply (three prong job on the end), and plug it into an appropriately grounded and bonded outlet. Adjust your attitude to address said power supply, then extend a finger (usually coordinated motive skills are required here, because it's multi axes motion), then with vision sensors guiding said complex motion, press the ON Button! No grey smoke, probably would be OK.

Seriously tho, I am not advocating anyone changing the power/control scheme of a consumer grade product. Stick within the OEM's window of offerings/limits for the product, as they are insured for this. Tamper with this, and Liability will be on your head!