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out of the same material as the cage netting according to a fish farmer I talked to recently that does some cage culture.

Just thought I'd pass this on for those of you that do some cage culture. I wasn't aware of this.

Haven't tried it but it would seem if this is the case it would last a lot longer than the cable ties you buy locally. I have cage material going on 15 years and it's still good!

http://www.industrialnetting.com/accessories.html


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Does anyone have experience using two-part epoxy glue to join the plastic mesh on the right-angle seams between pieces?

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I use regular cable ties of good quality. Some have been in the water 10 years and retain strength.
















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I am using 1/8 inch netting so ties don't seem pratical

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RAH, snip one strand so the cable ties can go thru. Cable ties are the easiest way that I've found to attach the mesh to the frame. I've even tried nylon kite string, and "sewing" it to the frame. One year and the string broke. PITA to do too.

Plastics don't glue too well together. The surface is pretty slippery. I've had success glueing plastics with a solvent type glue that actually melts the plastic together, but never using a traditional "glue", even 2 part epoxies. The epoxies are too brittle.


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I was hoping to not use a frame except around the top. Anybody try hot glue? I do see that the supplier sells UV stabilized nylon thread for joining pieces, but I wonder how stable it really is.

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I'll toss this out there. I use light weedeater line to attach the netting to the frame.I tie one end, then start working it through the mesh and around the frame, cinching it tight as I go. It holds great for me, and has for years now. Matter of fact, I also use it as trellis material for my grapes, as it won't bruise the vines like metal cable or wire will. And, it's been outside in this fashion, through all weather conditions, for almost 20 years.


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Thank you - Your experience with it holding up outside in the light gives me confidence that it will work.

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RAH, without a frame to keep the netting taught, how are you going to brush off the algae that will grow on the netting?


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I did not realize that that would be a problem. I could add a wire frame inside the netting "bag".

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1/8" mesh will clog very fast with algae...most use 1/4" or 1/2"


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The 1/4" mesh is quite a bit thicker and more rigid than the 1/8" mesh. I have used both types from Industrial Netting. My small cage of 1/8" mesh is only used for short periods and only for feed training the smallest fingerlings. When feed trained, they are big enough to be moved to a 1/4" mesh cage. As soon as these fish are big enough, I move them into a 1/2" mesh cage. This reduces the algae clogging problems since the fish are in each cage relatively short periods. It takes a fairly long time (2-4 wks) for a clean dry cage to become algae clogged and by then the fish have grown and can be moved to a larger mesh cage.

For my cylindrical cages I use only a top rim as a main frame, no other attached frame parts. To get the cage to be free standing I attach 4 legs long enough so the cage bottom is about 2"-4" off the floor. Currently the uprights are made from PVC pipe 1/2" to 1" ID based on size of the cage. Previously I used wood strips for legs which made cages want to float and the wood gradually deteriorated. Top of each 'leg' has U shaped groove on the outer wall rim and a hole through both walls at about 1.5"-2" below the top. The leg is wired (single strand romex) to the top rim. The leg is also attached (tied) in two places to the mesh (middle of leg & at bottom). For me using the 'legs method' makes the cage lighter weight yet allows good rigidity for brushing off algae. Generally the larger the mesh size the thicker the netting. I find the diamond shaped netting thicker and more durable than the netting with square openings.

Last edited by Bill Cody; 10/29/13 11:05 AM.

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At the price for a roll of netting, I wanted something that could be used for holding minnows to larger fish. At 4' x 100', I should be able to make three cages 8' long by 4' wide and 4' deep. The lids would need to be made of bird netting. Not sure how long I will actually be holding fish. I will start with one cage and be using it for the small RES when they are delivered in late November until I go through them and release the ones with a red ear showing (to avoid BG). I generally do not have algae problems in my ponds, so it will be interesting to see how much of a problem this will be for me. Based on your experience, I will pull the cage out when not in use.

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RAH,

Not sure about Industrial Netting but Stoney Creek will let you buy whatever length you want.

When I use the 1/8th inch mesh i attach my floats on the inside frame near the top to prevent them from tearing the material.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
out of the same material as the cage netting according to a fish farmer I talked to recently that does some cage culture.


Not the same material, and they don't make them, nor the netting. Just a fabricator (converter, as they say) that's offering something else for sale. No doubt that they may be able to build you a nice cage tho.

I would go with their HDPE diamond pattern stuff. Not because Bill mentioned it, but seems to be a robust offering by their description. Don't want a cage made out of Nylon mesh tho.

The cable ties on a cage would have very little force just holding the netting around a tube or pipe, and Nylon will take a really good set after a while, especially after being cycled for a number of years. You could probably cut one, and it won't go Boing!


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I did not know about custom lengths but I already received the 100 foot roll. I plan to build a PVC frame for the top which will hopefully work as a float also.

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Industrial Netting also sells lengths of less than 100ft but there is a minimum total order amount. A least that was their policy last time I ordered. This way one can but 3 different mesh sizes and not have a 100ft roll of each size mesh.


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Just a note on the zip ties. It is my understanding that the black ones have more UV resistance than the white ones. That has been our practical experience using them on farm machinery also. The big bags of 1000 at a place like Home Depot make them pretty inexpensive per tie.

If anyone has a need for big really heavy duty zip ties a good source is a commercial heating and air conditioning supply company. They sell bags of 100 that are super heavy duty and 36" long used on H&A ducting in houses. If you go to a hardware store they might be a buck apiece but I think I paid around $10-12 per hundred from the right place. We use them all the time to tie up hydraulic lines on farm equipment. I wish they were black but I have only found them in white. Guess not much UV in an attic. If I need super strength they are long enough to go around some things three or four times before zipping them up.

snrub

Last edited by snrub; 10/29/13 09:32 PM.

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I've never found any difference between the white and black ones on my cages.


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