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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8 |
I am planning on planting some additional grass around my pond and in the runnoff areas. Currently these areas have vegetation but it is very sporadic. I am hoping that over time this will enhance the clarity of my pond. Does anyone have any suggestions on a durable perennial grasses that can thrive in Northwest Mississippi? Also this pond sits on the front part of 10 acres and I hope to one day build my home behind it so I would like for it to be a nice looking grass as well (otherwise my wife might not let me live there)... Thanks, Ragu
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,365
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,365 |
BigRagu,
I have found the best grass for bare or sparse ground in my area is a mix of Bermuda (Var. Sahara) and Centipede (Pennington seed).
The Sahara bermuda sprouts quickly and begins to cover in only 6 weeks in warm wet weather. It quickly covers and the thick runners prevent erosion. Left un-mown, it maxes out at about 8-10" tall.
The centipede starts off very slowly, and takes about a year to start choking out the bermua. The centipede needs no care whatsoever. Not even fertilizer. It's quite drought tolerant, and is very disease resistant. Left un mown, it maxes out at 12-16" tall. Once established, you can finish mow it every week, or bush hog it 3-4 times a year as you please. It's the only carefree grass that I know of that also looks great and doesn't grow waist high if neglected. It browns out after the first hard freeze, but comes back very early in spring. Since you already have some cover, you may option to skip the bermuda and just sew the centipede. Just be patient, it starts real slowly at first.
I do believe centipede will grow in your area, but don't hold me to that!
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
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Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99 |
BoBad's advice is sound. The only question I have is that it's October, and you may not have enough warm weather left to establish bermuda. If not, winter varieties of rye will hold the soil until spring, when you can plant better grasses. I have been a big fan of common bermuda as a turf grass around ponds, especially where a home will be. One other tip, use water from your pond to irrigate the grass seed and new grass, to help it become better established, quickly.
Teach a man to grow fish... He can teach to catch fish...
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,975 Likes: 277
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 13,975 Likes: 277 |
It's been nearly 17 years, and I still eat crow occasionally for telling my wife it was too late in the year to plant grass cover (rye and fescue) in December '88 (during a snowstorm). The damn stuff came up just to spite me.
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 214
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 214 |
I spoke too soon, forgive me.
Being so far south rye may take hold until you can get a warm weather grass established; if that's an option.
Chip
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,075
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,075 |
The rye grass will germinate, but unless you really seed it very,very heavy, it will not stop erosion. Rye grass blades are very thin and the root system is very fragile. If it were me, I'd find some old hay and spread it out over the entire area. It will not only stop erosion but will also form a good natural nutrient base for your grass in the spring. If you use bahia hay, you will also have bahia grass in the spring, although like others I prefer bermuda, expecially common bermuda. Be careful if you count on Rye grass to control erosion...you will need lots of seeds.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,892
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,892 |
No matter what you use, you will have to prepare the soil. Rye goes on top of freshly disturbed earth with light covering and wheat and/or oats have to be covered a little deeper. Bermuda also goes on top but also needs to be lightly covered.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 32
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 32 |
I am finishing my pond and now preparing the areas around it- it is about a 4.5 acre site with the little less than 1 acre pond nestled in it. I am going to hydromulch/hydroseed the entire area using elbon (cereal )rye at the rate of two hundred pounds per acre. With that I am strategically planting various other clovers/wildflowers native grasses and vetches. Then I am going to wrap my dams with curlex 1 soil fabric. just had a nice rain but drying up and now it's balls to the wall to finish rocking my spillways (three in the string of ponds ) and getting ready to seed and finish the project- anyone in the area is welcome to the finishing!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 352
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 352 |
Have you priced this hydromulch? I was quoted $1500 per a for bermuda\rye out of San Antonio.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 821
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 821 |
Big Ragu, My local Game Biologist gave me this chart (for southern states): Email me if you need a better copy. Gator
- Smoke 'em if you got 'em
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 396
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 396 |
I live in southern Mississippi and everytime I reseeded the birds came in and ate the seed. I purchased a small soil aerator at Home Depot and ran over the bermand elsewhere that needed seeded , reseeded and drug a piece of fence over to cover the seeds. I used rye seed , some bermuda and perenial rye. I also had a well drilled and added irrigation and I also must hand water the higher berm area so it will get enough water. Until I aerated the soil I was losing the war with birds and going broke on seed. This all turned around and I have a good berm and the flat land is just average.
paul weatherholt
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 32
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 32 |
.21 cents american per square yard - i provide the seed and water- $1014.99 per acre??????????????
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