Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Property Projects & Construction Pole Barn

What barn?

The canoe is what draws my eyes.

It is a very nice boat !

Gully Washer I had to make these special holders to make my boat rack work, holding the rack to the gutterless car. The rack was white oak and it took a lot of fitting to conform the rack feet to the contour or the car roof, then I added rubber lining to the feet.

R&R, Sorry for kinda hijacking your thread ... I'm not as young as you but I'm looking forward to have one built approx. the same size as yours in the next couple of years.
Your craftsmanship looks awesome!!! I'd think about putting a balcony or loft up there to look at that beautiful site you have.

hang loose, Actually I started out planning a gambrel style but for the extra cost and the older I get the less I like stairs I nixed it.

Took Friday off to get insulation on.


slow going by yourself.


Almost there.


All the roof metal on and 100% screwed down. Ridge cap next.


A couple of panoramic's (New I-Phone)



Gonna focus on getting some concrete poured next.

Thanks for the pics. Nice roof ! New phone takes good pics.

Gotcha you R&R.... Stairs are not easy on the legs. but a beautiful site though. Hard to believe those pics are from Indiana.....Looks like you're out in the middle of Colorado.

Great pictures!!!

Nice view.

Thanks WIH. Wish mine went as fast as yours.

A few updates: Ridge Cap going on.



How I had to do it. Too steep and Too slick.



Completed. Here's to NEVER EVER having to get on that Roof Again. ( I guy can wish can't he.)



Prepping some slabs:

Thanks for the pics. Nice work ! Tell us about the floor as I note forms.

Are you planning on pouring that yourself, or are you just doing the fill and prep work?

I'm doing all of the forming and prepping. and assisting a buddy on the pours. I'm separating exterior pours, Walk in cooler pour and area around toilet so as to not melt a wax ring and to keep cold slabs from migrating into the interior slab. Putting a Boiler system in heating the floors in the pole barn and upcoming house.

Cooler slab:Vapor barrier,Insulation and rebar still to come:



Bathroom toilet and under vanity area:




I thought the Amish would stop and help a neighbor out? LOL



If Anybody has any expertise on such boiler systems I'm all ears. Kinda just learning as I go. (Google It)

I don't have any experience, but when I built my shop I came very close to installing radiant (hot water) heat in the floor. What stopped me was the need to bolt various pieces of equipment down solidly to the concrete, once the shop was operational.

The thought of drilling a hole for an anchor bolt right down through one of those water lines scared me enough to decide against it.

R&R

Beautiful place....

love all the trees and the panoramic pics.

I have direct experience with in-floor heat. I personally ran the pex tubing on 12" centers in my 145' x 50' shop. I love it. I was going to use an outdoor wood stove to heat the boiler but I am very glad I decided to use propane instead. My heating bills are very reasonable.

I also bought the on-demand heater/boiler, manifold, pump, pressure tank, etc and did the install. I would not do it myself again. I would hire a professional and drink beer while he did all of that. It was like putting a puzzle together without knowing what the puzzle was supposed to look like. I did prevail but only after way too much time and way too many "F" bombs dropped.

I don't know of anyone around here that has the in-floor heat that isn't happy with it. My boiler is a Quietside. I bought it and all of the major components from some place in New York.

Sparkie is right....you better know exactly where you plan to place studwalls and plan accordingly with your pex loops. You hit a line then you are screwed. I did a 4" pour, suspepended the pex tube zip tied to the rebar 2" down from the surface and had everything planned precisely (bathroom, etc)so I could build studwalls. However, and fast foward 4 years to today, I have a need to build a mezzanine but I can't take the chance of bolting down by upright posts in fear of hitting a water line.

The Solution.......do a 6" pour and keep all of your rebar and tubing 4-5" below the surface. That's what others I know have done and that's what I should have done.....for the sake of being able to ramset nails or use anchorbolts without getting into the tubing.

At the time on was on a tight budget hence the 4" floor and doing it all myself. In hindsight, I should have found a way to do a deeper pour and/or hired someone to install the system.

My system actually has a baffle that allows me to heat water that goes to my shower and sink without robbing water that is in the closed loops that continously pumps throughout the floor.

Don't use a wood boiler!!!! You can thank me later.
My Inlaws have one and they have spent about 30,000 in equipment and 40hrs every fall to get their wood plus they have to babysit the the thing all winter. Now they are thinking about putting in a backup system for when they go on vacations.

Looking great! That is one awesome setting...I'm sure there'll be much pleasure in having it!

I did a LOT of research on floor heat. Some tidbits:

Listen to Shawn. He's covered most of them.

Use chairs to hold up the rebar. Don't try to pick it up as you go. Make the squares between the runs of rebar min. 18" so you can walk betwen the rebars without catching a foot, or so you don't step on them when pouring/screeding, etc..

Multiple zones that run parallel to each other. That way if you DO poke a hole in a run, you won't have a whole area that is without heat, just every other run for that zone.

IIRC (please correct me if I'm wrong) 300' run max per zone.

Lay out whatever you can ahead of time, or leave areas for drilling holes to bolt heavy stuff, like a 2 post lift. If you can plan ahead enough, make a template and put the anchor bolts in the wet concrete - do drilling needed.

Send Hesperus a PM. He's got a nice shop with radiant heat in the floor. He's lived with it for a while, so he might have some other caveats.

I have a natural gas, high efficiency furnace in my shop, with overhead ductwork. I would still like to have an outside wood furnace with boiler as the primary heat source, although I would utilize a heat exchanger in conjunction with the existing blower and ducting in the nat. gas furnace to distribute the wood fired heat. The natural gas burner would be set to come on at a temp just high enough to prevent freezing, should the wood fired unit be down for some reason.

I have cut wood for years and never burned a stick of it...plenty of wood here, seems a shame not to utilize it for my own use, since I'm going to cut it anyway. A hybrid system consisting of wood fired boiler as the primary, and nat. gas as the backup seems to me to offer the best of both worlds.



"Hybrid".....see how I worked that in there?? That's just to see if Yolk is paying attention.

Almost missed it, Sparkie.

I was looking for "Modified", "Improved", "Gussied Up", and "Indiana Aquaculture Exports Banned by European Union".

Thanks All. Some good info for sure, some I've thought extensively about some I haven't. originally I was planning a propane boiler in conjunction with an outside wood burner. But once again the thought of cutting wood as I get older rubbed that one out.

Beautiful property man.

Looks fantastic, R&R!

Hope you were spared by the storms. I have quite a bit of insight that I can add. Thinking maybe a different thread for the in floor heat part would be a good idea?

Thanks Guys.

Hesperus I'll do that. I didn't get hit but I did spend most of Sunday picking up some of my 4' x 20' (well they used to be) Styrofoam sheets that Sat. Nights wind blew around. Poured concrete Sat. Morn. (Areas without heat) will post some pic's later.