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#34355 07/07/04 07:19 AM
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has anyone use remedy for mesquite trees?..I'm also looking for something to control grass near the waters edge, i'm lookin to clear about a 5 -7 ft section around the whole lake so it makes it eaiser to fish from the bank.. 2 4-D?, Round-up..etc... ? what works for you guys, and something that wont be harmful to my fish, i'd hate to spray then come back to a waterturkey buffet!.. ON ME!!>..

thanks fella's..

chris


"Born to fish, Forced to work!"

2.3 acre, 1.5 acre, 1 acre , .5acre (bgill only)
#34356 07/07/04 08:06 AM
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remedy plus diesel will kill mesquite but i dont think you want to put that next to the water's edge.


Fight'n Texas aggie class of 09!
#34357 07/07/04 08:42 AM
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I use Remedy and swear by it for killing mesquite and oaks. I mix it with water as a foliar. I expect I would go with diesel and spray the trunk area around the water. If you miss any part of the trunk, it won't die. I haven't sprayed this year but I seem to recall the ratio is 3 or 4 to one for trunk applications.I contacted Kelly Duffie by E-mail and followed his directions, especially concerning the correct surfactant. He works for Estes Chemical and I found the counter guys there to be very knowledgable. BTW, I have come to the conclusion that oaks and mesquite are not trees but weeds. It takes several herbicide applications to finally kill them. Tougher than Johnson grass.

#34358 07/07/04 08:49 AM
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hey dave, thanks for the reply, you dont happen to have a copy of that email.. ?.. as far as his directions... sounds like this worked for you

thanks

chris


"Born to fish, Forced to work!"

2.3 acre, 1.5 acre, 1 acre , .5acre (bgill only)
#34359 07/07/04 07:41 PM
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Christopher, if you're a patient guy, here's an alternative. If the Mesquite's are small, get a hand axe, chop and spray lightly with diesel. If they are 6" size or larger, get a chain saw, cut them ground level. Take a drill and sink a few holes in the base about 3-5" deep...fill with gas, diesel, or lighter fluid. Let sit for 30 minutes, and repeat. Then, get a cold beer (or two) a chair, and a lighter...set afire. The bigger the stump, the longer you'll be there, but roots will burn several feet into the ground. It helps to add small sticks to the top of the stump base, adds to the coal base.

#34360 07/07/04 09:22 PM
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Eastland - you must like to work. Or, is it just an excuse to reward yourself with adult beverages? ha

REMEDY mixed with diesel (1:3, respectively) and applied to the trunk (from ground-line to 18" up) of most woody species is a very effective and consistent treatment. Larger trees (>5", depending on species) may have rough/thick bark which cannot be so easily penetrated. If so, use a machete to make downward-angled cut through the bark, evenly spaced around the trunk's perimeter - then apply the same solution to the cuts. The tree's cambium layer lies directly beneath the bark. This layer contains the xylem and phloem, through which the tree transports moisture and nutrients. If one can get the solution into these transport-avenues, the tree is usually history.

REMEDY is also effective on oaks as a foliar spray (mixed with water and surfactant). However, although mesquite trees will be defoliated with foliar REMEDY applications, it is fairly rare to get root control with this particular method of application.

If a foliar application is desired for mesquite, use REMEDY and RECLAIM (+ surfactant) in water (NO diesel!). Make applications after the leaves have turned a dark green, after the spring-time flush of growth is over.

In general, use the basal-bark treatment for low-density populations or where larger specimens are abundant. Use foliar treatments for high-density growths that range from 3' to 7' in height.

In most soil-types, REMEDY is usually inactive once it hits the soil. But, care must be used around desirable trees in sandy soils (clays are what usually tie-up the herbicide and render it inactive).

#34361 07/15/04 11:53 AM
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what would ya'll reccomend on grasses.. say like on the damn!!...i cant get my mower down it.. its to steep, when the water drops, i wanted to get some kinda control on those so we can fish from the bank.. and something that will kill them completly... so i dont have to worry about mowing or weedwackin!!..

any ideas.. same stuff used for both?.. maybe a shitload of roundup?

thanks guys..

chris


"Born to fish, Forced to work!"

2.3 acre, 1.5 acre, 1 acre , .5acre (bgill only)
#34362 07/15/04 10:27 PM
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Christopher: Personally, I'd recommend that you NOT moonscape the exposed slope of your dam. Doing so would increase the potential for erosion; thus reducing the pond's depth adjacent to the dam and/or producing a lot of murky water (which could have some negative consequences for your phytoplankton population).

If you want to reduce your mowing labor and frequency, try using glyphosate (any formulation) at a very LOW use-rate. Properly applied, low-rate glyphosate applications serve to stunt the growth of many plant species - without killing them. Several tall grasses are actually controlled by these low use-rates.

Do you ever notice the TX-DOT spray-rigs running the shoulders of our highways and backroads? Roadside Sprayer Guess what they're spraying.. In most cases, they're applying about 12 - 24 oz. of ROUNDUP PRO - PER ACRE - in approx. 40 to 50 gal. of water. Common bermudagrass is very tolerant to such low use-rates. Not so with Johnsongrass and several other grass species (corn, grain sorghum/milo respond similarly to Johnsongrass ~ very sensitive to glyphosate).

You might "consider" trying this chemical-mowing treatment - sparingly at first, until you see the results (about .25 oz/gal.). Otherwise, I'd seriously caution the use of glyphosate for total vegetation control in such areas.

#34363 07/16/04 06:49 AM
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thank you kelly!!

chris


"Born to fish, Forced to work!"

2.3 acre, 1.5 acre, 1 acre , .5acre (bgill only)
#34364 07/16/04 08:10 AM
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Chris, et al

CAUTION: DO NOT attempt the glyphosate treatment described above on lawns or pastures. It isn't intended for high maintenance turf-sites of any type, and certainly NOT for St. Augustine or centipede grass - which are very susceptable to glyphosate. Common bermudagrass is the most tolerant specie, and then, only in "rough maintenance" areas.

FYI: there is a product called PRIMO which may be used on maintained turf to reduce growth and mowing frequency. PRIMO is a true plant growth-regulator (PGR) which shortens the internodes on most turfgrass species - producing a shorter, more compact growth profile while reducing the amount of clippings from mowings. It has a very low use-rate: .25 oz per 1,000 sq. ft.

#34365 07/16/04 08:12 AM
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its really the tall grasses..so we can fish the bank.. nothing around a house thank you for all your info!!

chris


"Born to fish, Forced to work!"

2.3 acre, 1.5 acre, 1 acre , .5acre (bgill only)

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