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#331101 04/18/13 07:21 PM
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Hi. Water test results are in, and at first i thought i was a little high on the Phosphorous and Ammonia. But then, i looked again and had missed the "0" in the optimal range. This puts me over 10 times the optimal limit on the phosphorous and ammonia. I had been looking at some bacterial products to try and neutralize the phosphorous, but am wondering with 10 times that recommended range am I wasting my money?
My pond is just under an acre surface area, with an average depth around 6 feet. Water has been green for about 2 years now and once the weather warms up I'll be getting the algae blooms. trying to avoid it this year if possible...

Optimal Range
pH 7.6 units 6.8-8.2
Total Phosphorous 0.36 mg/l <.025
Ammonia NH3 0.28 mg/l <0.05
Nitrate NO3 &#772; 0.4 mg/l <10
Nitrite NO2 &#772; 0.03 mg/l <0.5

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No alkalinity and/or hardness?


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Gslats,

Not sure about phosphorous as I don't concern myself with it, but I don't see anything there that would concern me. Besides, ammonia should fall to untestable levels once your water warms up and your nitrification cycle kicks in.

I think the optimum reading you have listed for ammonia is unionized not the total ammonia you are showing. I think that reading is supposed to be NH4.

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 04/18/13 10:00 PM.

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NH 3 ( this is called unionized ammonia ) NH 4 + ( this is called ionized ammonia ) .


Phosphate concentration of .01 to .03 milligrams per liter --- the standard measurement of phosphate --- is considered normal for uncontaminated pond water. Levels over .25 milligrams per liter are considered high and vulnerable to algal blooms and eutrophication.
















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How would you get that level down? Is it caused by a nutrient overload?

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The results i got did not have alkalinity or hardness, i just got the standard test. next time i'll spring for more testing!

ewest- so for my phosphorous at .36 mg/l, that is above the .25 mg/l you reference as being high. is it so high that treating it with an enzyme and bacteria product to digest the phosphorous futile?

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Consider getting a "orthophosphate" test PO4 It is a better indicator of whats available for algae and aquatic plants than a "total" phosphate reading.You can have a high ortho but a low total or a high total and low ortho. Just using a total can misslead you.As far as the "green" also consider sending Kevin Ripp at AquaFix www.naturalake.com a representitive sample and they will let you know what is going on in your water. Also which bacteria product and rates to accomplish your goals.

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Agree with Ted. Get all the facts and options prior to making a choice. Kevin is an excellent source of info.
















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Total P in our groundwater (ms delta) has measured 0.6 mg/l. As mentioned above, you want dissolved reactive PO4. I'm working on lakes right now with a TIP of 0.7 and DIP of 0.08. So I wouldn't jump to conclusions just yet.


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