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I have perhaps a really ignorant question and about to humiliate myself.... so please forgive my ignorance in advance.

My pond is roughly 1000-1200' from my garage back in the corner of my woods. Running electricity back there is not an option. Solar or windmill is not an option either. I just cant afford or don't want to spend more than a few hundred dollars to aerate my pond.

What I am wanting to do is simply run an air-line of some type from my garage back through the field to my pond. I have a trenchdigger so I will be burying this air-line a couple of feet through the field. (This field gets planted, gotta get under all that)

I have a 4hp air-compressor with a tank in my garage that I want to use to push air back there. Would this type of home-made rigged system work?

I realize aerating is a delicate process and it is possible to mess up a pond. Right now I just want to focus on getting some type of homemade system rigged up to get an air-line back there. I figure once I get the line layed, I can go from there and if this goofy sears air-compressor wont work, I can then invest in a pump or something and keep it in the garage and running....

Pumping air is pumpin air I guess sums up my question? Perhaps a designated aerator pump is more efficient is the only difference...?


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My thoughts.
Compressors are for high pressure - low flow situations.
Here, you want high flow of air to transfer Oxygen to the water.

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What size is your pond ??PS and its a very good question \:\)

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Your typical cycling air compressor has oil in it that will be introduced into the pond and/or clog up the diffuser. It will also be too noisy and expensive to run. You need a continuous duty compressor made for pushing a set volumn(cfm) of air at a given presure(psi) Requirements depend on the depth of aerator. Each 2 1/2 feet of depth equal 1 psi for the compressor to overcome.


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Along with what size is your pond, what is the depth, shape and how does it recharge to maintain the water level?

A 1/3hp piston compressor would have no problem pushing air only 1200' to your pond. A simple 3/4" PVC pipe would work fine. The electrical savings running this smaller pump vs. a 4hp compressor would out weigh the initial cost of the piston compressor, (only $20-$30 per mo. depending on your cost per kw hr.).

As Ted said, very good question. There is someone reading this that wanted to know the answer to this question.

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What Burgermeister said. I will add that air compressors are not suited to long run times. Even a top notch compressor would wear out in less than a month.

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If you can trench why is burying an electrical line not an option? I've done if for a few hundred feet and didn't think it was THAT expensive.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






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Cecil, I think that burying an electrical line 1200 ft. long would get pretty expensive due to 2 requirements. Direct burial cable or conduit under the cultivated field; also with that length cable the size would have to be very large to prevent voltage drop at the compressor. I DO think he may want to consider building or buying a separate box with cooling fan remote from the garage. edited 2000ft to be 1200 ft.


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If the burial is a little too shallow somewhere, or if it gets exposed by erosion, it is MUCH better to have an air line struck by a plow than an electric line.


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Thanks for the great replies. I'm learning lots from this place.

I took some pictures of my pond today and slung a web-page together to show/explain my situation. I ramble quite a bit, but wanted to give and show as much detail as I could so I could help others to help me and the pond.



http://h1.ripway.com/Questoonable/pondstuff.html


This pond is right around 1 acre surface area, and somewhat of an odd L-shape. Overall it's a fairly shallow pond, due to the edges sloping so slow. Out in the middle its an average of about 10' where I plan to place a diffuser until someone convinces me that a fountain would be better. The pond is fed just from run-off.

Summary of situation: I need to go approx. 1100' to a 1 acre pond that has a max depth of about 10' out in the center of it all. All this on a budget of roughly $500 or less.


At this point the only thing I have ruled out is the windmill setup, that just wont be practical for me, and again during those hot muggy lazy summer days when you need it to work, it wouldn't be.

If I knew the first thing about building my own solar kit I would love to do that, but I don't even have a clue where to start to find the pieces of that puzzle. Seems the panel alone that I would want/need would be over my budget by itself.

As for running electricity 1100', from what I have been told the size line I would have to run would be a fortune. I would like to just go this route though. Seems more practical to have a pump next to the pond rather than up here in the garage with an air line that long. Deep down I am leaning this direction.


Thanks again for the replies, and thanks for all that follow in helping me figure out the best way to do this project. All suggestions and advice are very welcome.


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sgillum71, please reread my last post and take heed. Whoever told you that running electrical that far is expensive is correct due to what I stated above about the size wire needed. Ted and Carey are in the business and will tell you that Running air vs electricity is far more economical, practical, and less dangerous. I also mentioned that instead of the garage, you can put it a ways from the house in a sound deadened box with a cooling fan.
If you are even considering a fountain, the current draw so the wire size would be even more.
5 amps current requires 14 gauge wire for 100ft, 4 gauge at 1200 ft. Look up the price of 4 ga. 3 conductor wire and conduit needed to go under the cultivated field. Just dont want you to make a huge mistake.


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If that shed is at the pond and you want electrical in there also, the power company would drop a line from the pole and install a transformer probably for cheaper than a long electric line from the house. Just a thought.


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sg71 > Consider that a 1200 ft 3/4 inch poly line (Lowes Silverline) would cost $168.00 so a chunk of that $500.00 budget is gone already. As far a a single diffuser and a pump it can be done for $500.00 but you still have tubing from the shoreline to the diffuser to add in yet.So if you have a need for electric service for other things other than just the aeration system that may be the route to go.The savings would be the poly line as I see it ($168)and the trenchng if the electric line will be above ground,Hope this helps, Ted

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Thanks for all the replies, it has been very helpful.

I have decided to run out and buy some 3/4" poly line to run from my garage back 1000' to my pond. Now I need to find a compressor for the garage and a diffuser on the other end and I will be on my way.

Ted I see that you are near my area. (I'm in east central Indiana) and I am really interested in that Thomas 1/3hp I see along with a Vertex airlift. Look for me to shoot you an email tonight or tomorrow morning asking/purchasing these things from you. If you want to comment about that pump here go right ahead, my first question is will it work for that length, and my second will be about the manifold. I don't really need two diffusers, but am interested in the pump and buying 1 Vertex though.

sgillum71@yahoo.com

Thanks again all.


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SG The pump will handle up to 1 mile and is a Thomas single piston 3.7 amp model.The manifold, pressure guage is included as the pic shows on the Econo ONE system, I have everythng to accomodate your situation,I will mail you some other specs, Ted

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I bought 1000' of 3/4" irrigation pipe yesterday. That along with 5- 3/4" couplings only cost me $111 at my local Menards. This was a bit cheaper than I expected and helping me to stay fairly close to my $500 budget. (Looking like this is going to be roughly a $600 project, and that isn't bad at all! I am very pleased as long as the rest goes as planned)

I didn't get around to e-mailing cleanponds.com (Ted) until late Friday afternoon. I hope to hear from cleanponds tomorrow and get the compressor and diffuser bought and on its way to me. I'm kinda hoping to have evertyhing by next weekend.

I will be stocking my pond for the second time this Friday. (I stocked it last year this same week for the first time) I am a bit concerned with starting this aerator system around that same time. I have been reading tons of topics around here though and confident in what I am doing and have a game-plan.

The reason I share these little details is for other newbs who come along in the future to perhaps learn from my experience/situation here. I can read something 10 times and not have a clue, but show me some pictures along with the story and things start to click. I will keep this updated and show some pics of the installation and will show some before and after pond/fish improvements as they unfold over time.


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SG,I sent you an email but for those following this thread I will add some points that exercise the importance of "sizing" a system.The pump you requested produces 4.4 cfm open flow. Based on the friction loss in your 3/4 inch hose and your depth of diffuser placement you will have over the 2.5 cfm recomended by Vertex as the max for the CoActive Airstation (2 discs on one base), Three options at this point knowing you are leaning towards the Vertex Airstations. Use the 4.4 cfm pump and exhaust off some air volume to the Vertex CoActive Airstation, Purchase a smaller pump or install a Vertex XL model diffuser which can handle 5 cfm (4 discs on one base)Maximum cfm limits and psi's are placed on diffusers so they do not get stretched or pop out of the retaining rings or force air through the threaded ring that holds them onto the diffuser disc plate. Excessive air can also bend the bladder base and compromise the check valve effect when the system is not running.Aeration manager for Vertex Sue Cruz may want to expand on my comments. As far as starting the aeration system for the first time use this proven safe method > 15 minutes the first day and double the run time every day and on day 8 your running 24/7 or take it to the hours per day you desire.

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Hi Sgillum -
When you get your aeration system installed you will need to follow a gradual start up procedure. You will run it 15 minutes the first day, 30 the next, an hour, etc until you have it running full time. It takes about a week. This prevents the bad water near the bottom from completely mixing with the good water and creating a sudden depletion of oxygen at the top of the water column. This gradual start up will protect your fish.


Sue Cruz
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www.vertexwaterfeatures.com

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Thanks again for the help.

Having too much air pressure never even dawned on me, very glad this was brought up. I have been worrying this whole time about even getting a big enough compressor to get sufficient air back there. My thought process all along has been "it is better to have too much pressure than not enough". This is an eye opener and a very good point about the importance of sizing a system.

Ted I didnt receive your e-mail for some reason. I have been cleaning out my spam folder and keeping my eye on it as well. I'm sure yahoo is to blame for this, so I appologize. I just sent you another e-mail (to info) and hopefully a reply will come back from it. You know my situation now and it looks like you have a better recommendation, I look forward to hearing from today.

Thank you Sue for the advice. I know I had read that somewhere and that is my gameplan. I'm going to start at 15 minutes the first day and then double it each day until I get maxxed out.

I found a different hatchery to buy my fish from after I posted last night, so I will not be stocking my pond this Friday after all. It won't be for another few weeks at least until I stock, so this is going to work out even better. I can hopefully get this aeration system set-up this week and be up to about full running time by the time I bring in a new stock.


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SG, Received you e mail and have sent you 2 or 3 in return Call me at 877 607 5296 Thanks Ted

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Thanks for everything Ted! Sorry about missing your e-mails btw, that was totally my fault. They were going in my spam folder which is cluttered every hour, and I just wasn't recognizing them.

I got the pump and diffuser today. Everything looks good. I should have everything I need and have this system hooked up and tested for the first time tomorrow (weather permitting).

Thanks again for everything to all. \:\)


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We got everything installed today and this system worked perfect without a single glitch. I am extremely impressed and pleased with this Thomas/Vertex combo. This was a great investment.

Thanks from Sgillum71!


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Glad its working out, you did your homework and it paid off \:\)

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I pondered the same question and since I already had a large piston compressor in my pole barn here's what I did. First I went to SurplusCenter.com and purchased a 1-10 psi air regulator and installed it on the existing compressor. I then ran 300' of 3/4" polypropylene pipe rated at 100 psi and connected it to an pond air-stone purchased off eBay. My compressor draws 7 amps running at 220 volts but it runs for only a small fraction of the time as the pond pumps that spin away 24/7 do. You can lay your hand on the head of the compressor between off cycles and it's cool to the touch so I really don't see how using one of these compressors will burn it up. Especially since it's only drawing but a few psi off the tank continuously. Mine has been working for months now.

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PineRidge, you may start seeing the stone or diffuser producing less bubbles at some point in time if the compressor has oil for lubrication as it migrates thru the air supply line. Otherwise, I dont see anything wrong with it if you can stand the noise as it cycles. Also look for oil slicks on surface of water.


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