|
Forums36
Topics40,962
Posts557,972
Members18,503
| |
Most Online3,612
Jan 10th, 2023
|
|
|
9 members (sprkplug, STG, FishinRod, Donatello, Boondoggle, Don Kennedy, Theo Gallus, MOFishermen, Ponderific2024),
1,127
guests, and
272
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,596 Likes: 36
Lunker
|
Lunker
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,596 Likes: 36 |
How about a blocking net around individual spawning beds?  
Last edited by Shorty; 03/21/13 09:02 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
|
|
OP
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
Calling all my handy brethren [Spark, Scott, Al, Bski, et al]...
The good news: Finished moving all rock [by hand] from former SMB beds to the new SMB reproduction ponds and she's ready to fill.
The bad news: As you might recall I was having issues removing the 8' long 8" standpipe from the 90 elbow - we couldn't get a grip on it to twist or pull even though it's greased well. Punched a 2" hole through the top of the pipe and fit a 2' stick of 2" PVC to act as a handle. Gave it all we had, didn't budge! I think the standpipe is so heavy and is flexing as we're trying to twist and we cannot remove. As you might recall, this essentially defeats the entire purpose of the SMB solo collection efforts. I have obviously used too large diameter standpipe, but I wanted to ensure the fish would not be injured during their short journey to the collection tank.
I have to figure a fix over the next few months. Here are the only ideas coming to mind - hopeful someone can shed their experience and provide some solutions.
1. Cut the standpipe into 24" sections and use unglued, greased couplers when I piece it back together. The smaller pieces will be lighter and easier to pull apart/disassemble. Problem - will the joints/couplers leak? Also, how will I grip to twist/remove?
2. Anyone with strap wrench experience? I see they make them large enough to fit 8", think this might be the tool I'm missing to enable me to twist the pipe?
Any feedback is appreciated - and if the strap wrench is the ticket, any suggestions on models/brands/online sources?
Thanks in advance guys...
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau ![[Linked Image from i1261.photobucket.com]](http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii582/teehjaeh57/I_subscribe_zps69249d43.gif)
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
|
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842 |
You can try a strap wrench, but my money would be on a chain wrench. It uses a heavier version of a bicycle chain and can be made longer. A strap wrench now is made from plastic and a rubber strap. Try rocking the standpipe back and forth as you try to twist it, and also pick up on it if possible at the same time.
For the future, (I don't know if they make one large enough for you, but a plumbing supply house would know):
There are rubber sleeves that have a large hose clamp on each end. I've seen them where one end is larger than the other too. If I could find one in the correct size, I would use that in connecting the standpipe to the elbow. I'd drive a stake in the pond bottom and somehow tie the standpipe to the stake to keep it upright, the rubber sleeve won't be stiff enough to hole the standpipe upright by itself for a long period of time. With the sleeve, you aren't putting the standpipe into the elbow. The hose clamps are stainless, and even after being underwater for 2 years you can still get a wrench on them. If you are draining the pond every year, I'd replace them once a year just because you could.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
|
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842 |
2nd thought. If you didn't want to go swimming to remove the rubber sleeve, put a "T" in the horizontal pipe before the 90° elbow and use a valve that you can open without getting wet.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1
Hall of Fame Lunker
|
Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1 |
One thing to consider about "swimming" around drains is the suction can be very powerful and very dangerous. All it takes is an arm or leg pulled into a drain and trapped under water and you're done for. I know trout farmer's son that was working around one and was nearly drowned.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1
Hall of Fame Lunker
|
Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1 |
Calling all my handy brethren [Spark, Scott, Al, Bski, et al]...
The good news: Finished moving all rock [by hand] from former SMB beds to the new SMB reproduction ponds and she's ready to fill.
The bad news: As you might recall I was having issues removing the 8' long 8" standpipe from the 90 elbow - we couldn't get a grip on it to twist or pull even though it's greased well. Punched a 2" hole through the top of the pipe and fit a 2' stick of 2" PVC to act as a handle. Gave it all we had, didn't budge! I think the standpipe is so heavy and is flexing as we're trying to twist and we cannot remove. As you might recall, this essentially defeats the entire purpose of the SMB solo collection efforts. I have obviously used too large diameter standpipe, but I wanted to ensure the fish would not be injured during their short journey to the collection tank.
I have to figure a fix over the next few months. Here are the only ideas coming to mind - hopeful someone can shed their experience and provide some solutions.
1. Cut the standpipe into 24" sections and use unglued, greased couplers when I piece it back together. The smaller pieces will be lighter and easier to pull apart/disassemble. Problem - will the joints/couplers leak? Also, how will I grip to twist/remove?
2. Anyone with strap wrench experience? I see they make them large enough to fit 8", think this might be the tool I'm missing to enable me to twist the pipe?
Any feedback is appreciated - and if the strap wrench is the ticket, any suggestions on models/brands/online sources?
Thanks in advance guys...
Let me think about it but yeah 8 inch was too big. Also very heavy which is probably why the pipe is wedged on there so hard. You might as well have glued it. Perhaps when you do get it pulled apart attach an adapter and back it off to a 4 inch stand pipe?
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 04/08/13 08:45 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 697
Hall of Fame Lunker
|
Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 697 |
Or you could use a flexible hose and set the intake at the height you want the water level
"I think I have a nibble" Homer Simpson 34ac natural lake  
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,312 Likes: 300
Moderator
|
|
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,312 Likes: 300 |
Ugh! TJ, is the standpipe also going to be used as an overflow drain as well?
I guess I'm asking does the riser need to be a predetermined height?
AL
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 939
Hall of Fame Lunker
|
|
Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 939 |
An idea FWIW, assuming you can remove the 2" handle you built;
1. 45 off one end of a 10' 4x4 post.
2 Attach a scissor jack to the top of the other end of the 4x4.
3. Slide post/jack assembly into the 8" pipe. Seat the 45 angle of post with PVC elbow.
4. Hook into one of the 2" holes with a rachet strap. Run the strap over the jack and hook into the other 2" hole. Tighten the rachet strap.
5. With the stap centered over the jack, raise the jack. The post will push on the elbow as the strap pulls the 8" pipe.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
|
|
OP
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
Good responses guys, I've considered them all and have come up with the following plan - feel free to shoot holes in these, that's how I'll learn.
I need to remove the standpipe, so I'm trying two things:
1. Buying strap wrench to use close to the elbow and hopefully get her spinning.
2. If I cannot remove, I'll cut it off and work on 12" of pipe instead of 8'. I'm sure we can extracate a smaller length of pipe.
For the future, I'm planning on installing a 8"x4" bushing at the elbow. 4" pipe isn't ideal for fast draining, but since I'm not sending any fish through the standpipe, it's an acceptable compromise. I'll use a perforated cap for the standpipe and while it will drain slowly, it will still drain and be much easier to manipulate and remove when it's time to open it up to drain.
I really like the other ideas, but this makes the most sense in terms of minimal labor in my mind.
Thoughts?
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,596 Likes: 36
Lunker
|
|
Lunker
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,596 Likes: 36 |
TJ, did you fill the standpipe full of water and still couldn't get it to move?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,312 Likes: 300
Moderator
|
|
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,312 Likes: 300 |
TJ, what about a slide gate near the outlet to control the drain rate and keep you out of the water? I'm dumb, just looked back and saw you had already installed the slide gate.
I was thinking about the perforated cap also, but leave it at the level you would ultimately want the pond drained to.
Last edited by FireIsHot; 04/08/13 01:02 PM.
AL
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
|
|
OP
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
TJ, did you fill the standpipe full of water and still couldn't get it to move?
Standpipe pivots fine, I just can't get it separated from the elbow!
Last edited by teehjaeh57; 04/08/13 11:46 PM.
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1
Hall of Fame Lunker
|
Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1 |
TJ, did you fill the standpipe full of water and still couldn't get it to move?
Standpipe moves fine, I just can't get it separated from the elbow! Stupid question: Why do you need to separate it from the elbow? Shouldn't you be able to move if from the vertical to drain the pond?
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
|
|
OP
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
Standpipe is designed to pivot on the elbow, allowing me to drain a foot at a time to relieve head pressure. No fish are supposed to be moving through the standpipe - it will be capped. Once I drain down far enough, I pull the stanpipe and elbow to drain the pond entirely, fish and all, into collection tank behind the dam.
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
|
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,534 Likes: 842 |
You play with it any more today?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 352
|
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 352 |
Just a thought, but perhaps you could remove the stand pipe all together and replace it with a removable trash guard. You could incrementally drain the pond with the gate valve.(I think "Fire Is Hot" eluded to this idea in his last post) I wouldn't think that it would take very long to drop the water level a significant amount via an 8 inch drain pipe.
As far as removing the stand pipe from the 90 ell. Good luck! I ran some large bore PVC pipe on a job some years ago and hope to never do it again. I recall separating stuck fittings by way of using a large heavy file or rasp. I would hold on to the end of the file and lay it perpendicular across the pipe about 2 foot away from the fitting, and then slide it with moderate force, repeatedly striking the protruding edge of the fitting, alternately moving around the circumference of the pipe to prevent the fitting from getting cockeyed, and binding. You could probably use a sharp cornered piece of flat bar or something similar in place of a file. In your case, you might try removing the 90 from the horizontal pipe first, with the standpipe still attached, and then remove the 90 from the standpipe. Try having someone rock the standpipe back and forth (not side to side) while you firmly but gently rap the throat of the 90 with a 4x4 piece of lumber. Or, if you have room, use the file/flat bar method. It also helps to squarely cut the pipe, and bevel the ends with a file or grinder, before assembly.
Good luck. Looks like an interesting project.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1
Hall of Fame Lunker
|
Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1 |
Shouldn't it be easier to remove the stand pipe once the pond is drained down? You're not having any problems pivoting the stand pipe right? Just removing.the stand pipe?
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 04/09/13 07:01 AM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
|
|
OP
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
Just a thought, but perhaps you could remove the stand pipe all together and replace it with a removable trash guard. You could incrementally drain the pond with the gate valve.(I think "Fire Is Hot" eluded to this idea in his last post) I wouldn't think that it would take very long to drop the water level a significant amount via an 8 inch drain pipe.
As far as removing the stand pipe from the 90 ell. Good luck! I ran some large bore PVC pipe on a job some years ago and hope to never do it again. I recall separating stuck fittings by way of using a large heavy file or rasp. I would hold on to the end of the file and lay it perpendicular across the pipe about 2 foot away from the fitting, and then slide it with moderate force, repeatedly striking the protruding edge of the fitting, alternately moving around the circumference of the pipe to prevent the fitting from getting cockeyed, and binding. You could probably use a sharp cornered piece of flat bar or something similar in place of a file. In your case, you might try removing the 90 from the horizontal pipe first, with the standpipe still attached, and then remove the 90 from the standpipe. Try having someone rock the standpipe back and forth (not side to side) while you firmly but gently rap the throat of the 90 with a 4x4 piece of lumber. Or, if you have room, use the file/flat bar method. It also helps to squarely cut the pipe, and bevel the ends with a file or grinder, before assembly.
Good luck. Looks like an interesting project.
Good thoughts on the pipe removal - we'll get her figured out hopefully this week yet. Gate valves can't stand up to that kind of pressure over time, but a ball valve can. Unfortunately an 8" ball valve is either non existent or cost prohibitive, but did consider this route at the onset. Another problem using screens is that they quickly become clogged with FA, pondweed, etc. I know this from experience. Freeing a clogged drain 8' down is a real PITA especially when one has to repeat it several times! I pieced this idea together from Cecil, Mike Otto and Bob Lusk feedback, and added a few of my own twists. Apparently no one thought the 8" standpipe would cause an issue...I think necking down to 4" will be much simpler in the future...I'm almost there!
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
|
|
OP
Chairman, Pond Boss Legacy award; Moderator; field correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,798 Likes: 68 |
Shouldn't it be easier to remove the stand pipe once the pond is drained down? You're not having any problems pivoting the stand pipe right? Just removing.the stand pipe? I drained the pond, still won't budge/twist. I'll get her done this week, replace with 4" standpipe, cap it and we'll be ready to fill and get brood fish stocked.
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,596 Likes: 36
Lunker
|
|
Lunker
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,596 Likes: 36 |
If it were me I might be tempted to use a little sandpaper on the fittings to loosen them up a bit before changing the pipe size.
|
|
|
Moderated by Bill Cody, Bruce Condello, catmandoo, Chris Steelman, Dave Davidson1, esshup, ewest, FireIsHot, Omaha, Sunil, teehjaeh57 |
|
