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My pond is about .55 acre and when it completely fills at full pool will be about 8 feet in the deepest areas and 2-4'in the lowest areas. How does one go about installing an aeration system in a pond that already has water in it? I understand I will have to run an electricity to the pond which is no problem since the pond is about 75 yards behind my house. Basically what am I looking at to make the install? Thanks in advance for any replies. Robert Lewis.

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RLewis,

You have a choice between running an air line the 75 yards to the pond from a compressor or running electricity the 75 yards to the compressor at the pond. Pros and cons for either way...but my personal choice is to run the air line (pvc pipe or poly tubing). Water and electricity don't mix gracefully.

Once you get air to the pond, you will need to install the diffuser with the weighted tubing attached at the length required to reach the deepest part of the pond. This can be easily accomplished in a pond either with a small boat or a rope strung across the pond on the opposite side and pulling the diffuser and air line to the desired location.

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Meadowlark, I appreciate all the help you've given me in different posts. I'll go with your suggestion and run a pvc line to the pond. One more question...does the compressor for the air come with an aerator kit or would I need to supply that myself?

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RLewis :

Before you start an aeration project for the first time in the south during summer [hot weather} please read the thread below esp. Bill Cody's posts. You need to know your pond well before you start or you may have bad results with DO levels. Research the topic well and understand before you start aeration. Unless you have a DO problem now look into using a fountain or sprayer as opposed to a bottom diffuser untill the water temps. drop some in the fall. ewest

http://www.pondboss.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=20;t=001851
















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 Quote:
Originally posted by RLewis:
Meadowlark, I appreciate all the help you've given me in different posts....does the compressor for the air come with an aerator kit or would I need to supply that myself?
You can buy it either way depending on the brand you choose. I went with the Vertex system and they supplied the tubing and diffusers. I've been very pleased with that system. It has operated flawlessly without any problems now for three seasons.

If you buy from them, follow their directions on system start-up. Their directions gradually increase your operating hours up to whatever level you desire, including 24/7. In my case, I run 16/7 during the summer and phase down to 2/7 in winter and back up gradually in spring to steady state.

Ted is the resident expert on aeration systems and he also sells Vertex. Hopefully he will chime in with his expert advice. I think you will be very glad you installed an aerator...it sure helps.

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I have similar distance. I ran 200 ft. of 10-3 w/ground and doubled up the hot side. Then 100 ft 1/2 in. semi-rigid PVC. I had a fence to put insulators on. I find the electricity somewhat near the pond useful for bug zappers, small water pumps for herbicides, trimmers etc.
ML and Ewest, can't he do with a smaller compressor in 8ft at 1/2 acre? Lewis, you will need 1.5 to 2 cfm at minimum 4psi to drive 1 diffuser. I think a 0522 series compressor will be plenty, just check the specs.


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RLewis :

Please don't take my prior comment as being opposed to aeration . I think aeration is a very good tool when use correctly especially in small ponds. My warning has to do with timing and getting it right the first time . Let me be clear you can start an aeration project using bottom diffusers now but it must be done correctly. Without the correct equipment for your pond and correct installation and start up to match your DO status you could cause a DO reduction in the top 4 feet of your pond and as a consequence kill your fish. August is a brutal mth. in Miss. for DO problems . Just last week there was a large fish kill at Raymond Lake which DEQ thinks was the result of DO problems.

With low DO levels in most small ponds in cent. Miss. at this time of year if you start an aeration project and mix deeper unoxygenated water with low DO surface water and do not quickly get enough additional O2 from the aeration you may pull the DO level in top 4 ft. below that needed to sustain life in your fish. Again see Bill Cody's post regarding improper mixing. If I were going to start an aeration project now I would start a system that only added O2 to the surface waters and as water cooled in fall move to bottom diffusers.

BM I would think that a half acre pond would need less compressor capicity than a larger pond but I only know enough about correct size to be dangerous and I would not give anyone advice based on my knowledge level. ewest
















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RL - In a new pond situation like yours and with the pond not full yet (mid-late August), you do not need bottom aeration until next spring. Get your "ducks", plans and equipment organized this fall / winter and install the system next spring in March or early April.

In small ponds such as yours, I always encourage pondmeisters to mount the diffuser on some sort of "sled" and just pull the diffuser with attached airline into its final resting place with a weather resistant rope from shore. Leave rope attached and when ever you need to clean or service the diffuser it can be easily pulled to shore with the rope. Boat delivery of the diffuser is an option but it is harder and somewhat more effort than the rope /sled method from shore. The only drawback to the rope-sled method is with a pond that is heavy with fish structure and dragging a diffuser and airline through the "clutter" can get all wrapped up in the fish structures.


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We have the weighted bucket our airstone is secured in tied to a rope with a Pintail hen decoy for a marker float, which lets us move it from the canoe. The inlet filter for our cattle watering line is tied to opposite shores by long lines, which lets us move it from the shore. If I only had one artifact in that region of the pond (they are fairly close) I would use both methods so it could be moved either way.

Either shoreline or boat placement is better than how I placed the airstone originally - swimming in October. I thought the water was cold until I got out (55 deg air temp & strong wind).


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Theo,

Your placement method results in what Seinfield refers to as "shrinkage". I prefer the more conventional boat or rope approach. \:\)

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I think airstones or diffusers in buckets tend to be unstable on the pond bottom. Diffusers should have wide bases so it is difficult for them to fall over, tip over, or sit in an angled position. The pond bottom that has muck build-up is not the levelest of surfaces. The weighted airline exerts a "pull" on the diffuser, usually during installation. My experience indicates buckets are often on their sides.

An airstone or diffuser in the bottom of a cut-off plastic barrel (30-55gal) makes a lot more stable base for the diffuer.

Diffuser Marker Floats. One experience with a duck decoy as a marker for a diffuser resulted in the duck decoy always going in a circle when the diffuser was operating. Eventually the circling duck wound up the rope into knots which lifted the diffuser off the pond bottom. Hard to believe, but true.


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Very valid concern about disturbing muck, Bill. I THINK my bucket is OK, it has about 3" of stones in the bottom and is VERY bottom heavy (I put a life jacket on me and another on the bucket for the delivery and still had fun getting it in place).

Our duck has about 5'-6' of slack in the line; it functions as a wind sock wrt the boil. If it should coil the line enough to tighten, the duck drowns as the bucket is too heavy.


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Theo,

Just goes to show you that even the seemingly most innocent of posts...duck decoy for diffuser marker...can be a problem in someone's pond. \:\)

Not a tried and true decoy, obviously.


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