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Jan 10th, 2023
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OP
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Hello again, i made a post a few years ago about sealing my 3 acre lake and got some great advice, so here is my next question.
I just drilled a new water well for my house on a hilltop that rises about 100 feet above the bottom of my pond that is only about 400 feet away. When i got the report back on the well they drilled it states that the static water level in the new well is at 80 feet. They drilled it 205 feet and have the well suspended at 140 feet. So from this information that means that the static water level under that hilltop is actually about 20 feet above the bottom of my lake. Ok, here is my question. Can I hire someone to simply bore a 2" or 3" pipe horizantaly from the vertical bank of my lake just above the expected water level and let the water run in to fill the lake? If so, how can i control the water flow from the pipe bored horizantaly into the ground? put a valve on the end? thank you in advance for any information!
Last edited by camoman; 01/09/13 04:43 PM.
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
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Hello again, i made a post a few years ago about sealing my 3 acre lake and got some great advice, so here is my next question.
I just drilled a new water well for my house on a hilltop that rises about 100 feet above the bottom of my pond that is only about 400 feet away. When i got the report back on the well they drilled it states that the static water level in the new well is at 80 feet. They drilled it 205 feet and have the well suspended at 140 feet. So from this information that means that the static water level under that hilltop is actually about 20 feet above the bottom of my lake. Ok, here is my question. Can I hire someone to simply bore a 2" or 3" pipe horizantaly from the vertical bank of my lake just above the expected water level and let the water run in to fill the lake? If so, how can i control the water flow from the pipe bored horizantaly into the ground? put a valve on the end? thank you in advance for any information! I believe so, but you should put a screen on the end of the pipe like they do for a well. You don't want the pipe filling up with dirt. A valve on the outlet end of the pipe should work. I'd drill it lower than just below the water level in the ground. If the ground water level drops, then you wouldn't need the valve. With all that said, what are your chances of draining enough water for the pond to make the well for the house go dry?
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I don't think there would be that much draw down as to limit the house well of water. We had a record drought this year and there are several 600-700 gpm irrigation wells that ran non-stop for about 3 months within a couple of miles of my new well and my local well driller said even with the drought and extra irrigation this year the water level only dropped about 5-10 feet in my area. I also was wondering why i don't have a spring or two around this area since the static water level is above the bottom of my lake? I have heard that having rolling hills in an area actually presurizes the water table and that is why it can be found above lower drainages such as a creek or pond?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Water in the ground follows the fissures and permeable veins in the ground, so even tho there's water above your pond, it might not be connected to it.
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sounds right. it's funny you say that because i took about 10 foot of clay off of this hilltop to prep the area for my new house and found veins of pure sand in 2 different spots. they were both about 15-20' wide and as long as i dug.
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has anybody ever tried this type of water supply? i'm curious on who i could find to do this horizantal drilling and what it would cost?
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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I cnecked into horizontal boring or drilling for another project (really 2 different projects) and had prices of $25 to $15 per foot depending on how many feet the job was. The smaller job also had a $600 Mobilization fee tacked onto it too. The smaller one was more expensive on a per foot basis, and it was for 2" "pipe", including the materials. The larger one, while cheaper per foot to bore, did NOT include the cost of the materials.
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ok, thanks esshup. If i put a valve on the end of the pipe how can i keep it from freezing?
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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1) leave it trickle all winter long
2) if the valve is up away from the pond, and more pipe/hose is needed to get the water to the pond, disconnect the pipe/hose past the valve. Shut valve, have a small well insulated structure over the valve that you can put a 40-60 watt light bulb in. There are thermostatically controlled plusg that turn on at 32°F. I have one in my pump house hooked to a 1,000 watt small ceramic space heater. That's where my bladder tanks are for the house, and where the shallow well pump used to be. Now I have a submersible pump, but it still runs the water thru those bladder tanks.
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Lunker
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Lunker
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An alternative to boring would be to start a siphon
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How would you set up a siphon system in my circumstance? The siphon would have to lift the water about 80' to get to the ground surface and then it would be about a 100' drop down to the pond about 400' away. Can a siphon pull water 80' straight up?
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Lunker
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Lunker
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You would need to set up the line so that you can fill the output pipe and then release the water. What I do is put a tee at the top of the well and a valve at the bottom of the output line. Open the bottom valve a small amount and then pump water into the tee a little downhill of the top most point. Once the outlet line is full, close off the tee where the water was being pumped in and open the bottom valve. A check valve at the bottom of the line down the well makes everything easier, but is only needed if the line to the pond is not substantially longer than the distance of the water level in the well and the top of the well (in your case, 80 feet).
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Yep, that sounds like it would work. Here's another dumb question. Why can't i just put a tee in my 1-1/4" supply line to my house before the pressure tank and use my well to prime the siphon line down to the lake and when i get a good steady stream of water coming out the siphon outlet just turn the well off? Will the siphon still pull water through the submersible pump when it is not on and the impellers not turning? Will it affect my supply to the pressure tank? sorry about all the questions, just trying to learn before i do something!
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Lunker
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Lunker
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I do not know the answers to your questions, but I would use seperate lines and be sure to use a backflow preventer (check valve) so that their is a low chance of contaminating your well from the pond line.
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Ok. thank you! Anybody else know if you can siphon water through a submersible pump if the pump is turned off?
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