Pond Boss Forums AERATION Systems questions Diffuser location+running time+pump house

I purchased a 1/4 hp kit with 100' of weighted tubing and single membrane diffuser. The pond is roughly 1/3 acre rectangle with depth of 8-10 feet. The 10' is at the far end of the pond. The pond was built around 1960, so I placed the diffuser on top of a plasitc 3 1/2 gallon bucket to keep it off the bottom for now. So I am guessing I have the diffuser 18" off the bottom. This is at about 2/3 of the length of the pond where the deepth is about 9'. Is this a good starting location and how long should I keep the diffuser off the bottom?

The pump outlet is controlled by home automation software, so I can schedule power on/off based on time and even air temperature. Should I worry about that now, or just run it 24/7 during startup?

I have power right at the pond so just put a bucket over the pump (it is sitting on a patio stone) for now. I've seen the fake rocks and metal cabinets, but I would like to build a small wood (cedar) cover. Anyone have ideas or plans?

Thanks in advance,
Barry

I'm as certain as this non-aeration, non-pond management pro can be that you don't want to run 24/7 at start up. IMHO you need to integrate the water next to that old bottom sediment into the upper levels very slowly, as it could be full of Hydrogen Sulfide from anaerobic decomposition. H2S is nasty stuff for fish if introduced to the upper water in a big dose.

I would also start with the diffuser shallower than (7.5') for the same reason. If you can tie a rope with a float onto the diffuser/bucket assembly, it should be simple to move it around from a boat to change depths. The assembly will probably be pretty stable if you have some stones in the bucket for weight. I move my airstone back and forth from shallow to deep water like this seasonally, and it's a snap to do solo in a canoe (you don't have to lift the bucket all the way out of the water).

Theo,

Is it really necessary to worry about hydrogen sulfide this early in the season? Shouldn't there still be ample D.O. in the deeper water?

Barry,

I would mount your diffuser to a plastic garbage can lid or something. Seems to me the bucket could tip over with out you even knowing it. Trust me it's hard enough with the garbage can lid!

As far as putting the compressor in a bucket it will overheat! You need air circulation around it. I built a box consisting of two by fours for legs that is surrounded by plywood. I added a vent ot each side that I found in a building supply store. Here is a pic. I didn't really worry about treated wood or cedar. They are three years old and still fine.

Here's the box and the inside.



Here's the outside of the box. Notice the vent and legs. :

Not sure, Cecil, good question. I assume H2S will be produced during most of the year, except during and right after turnover times.

If Lusk, Cody, or one of the Aeration pros made a statement one way or the other I'd go with that.

I would be careful as Theo suggested with a pond that old. I think it can be placed in the deepest water and run a couple hrs.and add 1 hr. each day or night. If you place the diffuser inside the bucket on top of gravel so it will sink and be stable, tie a rope to the handle with a float on the rope for retrieval, it will work fine. I did put 2 18 inch pieces of 1/2 in. pvc thru bottom of bucket for stability as suggested by Cecil I believe.

PS definitely not a pro, but have learned from the pros.

Glad I asked. I placed gravel in the bucket and it seemed stable. I wanted the height off the floor. Should I not worry about that?
I also attached a rope and a float so I can move it. I'd like to establish a schedule - run time and location - and get that going. I can automate the time, but will have do the moves the old fashion way.
Cecil,
Thanks for the pictures. I think I can handle somthing like that.
Barry

Barry, pictured below is our air pump cover made from an old igloo cooler.

Air vents from Home Depot.

A pond that was built in the 1960's that has not had any aeration or artificial circulation will more so than not, have some sort of Hydrogen Sulfide build up.

Why risk it? If you have the ability to automate the system as you described, place the diffuser at the depth that encompasses the majority of the shape of the pond. Then run the system the first day for only 15 min. and then off the rest of the day. The second day will be 1 hour, the third will be 2 hours, the fouth 3 hours and add an hour each day until you are able to operate the diffuser for a continuous 6 hours. After that you should be able to run it 24 hours a day if you would like without any concerns about killing your fish.

George and Cecil...I like seeing the way people adapt their systems.

I've started the schedule today. How long should I leave the the diffuser on top of the bucket (elvated)?

I also like the cover ideas - any others?

Barry

I can speak for our product and say that at 10" above the sediment layer, we still find circualtion at the water sediment layer.

Is your diffuser inside the bucket?

Wow George! Never thought of that!

The diffuser is mounted on top of the bucket. The diffuser base is black plastic with a hole to fill with sand or gravel. I took the handle off the bucket and drilled some 1" holes in the side. I filled a couple of inches in the bottom with crushed stone. I cable tied the diffuser base to the top of the bucket. I filled the diffuser base with pea gravel and drilled some holes to attach a rope. I then lowered the combined unit to the bottom. I should be able to remove the bucket with a couple of quick clips of the cable.

Thanks,
Barry

A pond expert in my area gave me some advise about aerator startup. Turn the aerator on, go out in the canoe and smell the air coming up. If you smell the rotten egg smell you know you have quiter a bit of H2S is there. Then he said to do what Cary suggested. The first day run it for 20 or 30 minutes. Add some time each day. When you get to where you no longer have any bad smell then have at it and run as much as you like. I use this method every spring when I start up my second aerator on a secluded part of pond. Some times I get some smell, then I'm careful. This spring I had no smell so I let her rip. Never killed an fish doing it this way.

I did go out shortly after I did the inital run and didn't smell anything. But I want to be safe and not sorry for not taking my time and doing it right.
Since I had run it some over the weekend, I did two hours today, well do three tomorrow etc.
Are there signs I should be watching for that will tell me things are starting to work? Will I start to see the water clear? I know this is a long process to reclaim some of the bottom, but I am hoping to see some improvements this summer.
Barry

Here is my temporary cover - on old plastic tub, 2 99 cent vents and some duct tape. Over on the home autmoation list, we rank projects for the WAF - that is the Wife Acceptance Factor. This one has a very very low ranking, but it seems to work for now .

And here is my old pond. You can see I have lots of work to do.

Are there signs to tell me the aeration is working? So far, no smells and the fishing are jumping (normal surface feeding). Next steps are to start removing brush and cattails form the edges.

Barry