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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 222
Fingerling
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Fingerling
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 222 |
Pennwood1, I think the watertable idea that others have suggested is very possible. Digging out that hole, you punched into a more permeable layer of soil and hit the water table. Did water initially fill the hole from within, and how long did that take, or did the hole remain dry until it was filled with runoff? I'm curious to hear the results of your pump test. By the way, my kids had a ball playing in "the hole" too. And by the way, if I've told her once, I've told her a hundred times not to ride wearing flip-flops!
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,508 Likes: 829
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,508 Likes: 829 |
4 were sold at that price
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99
Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
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Editor, Pond Boss Magazine Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,347 Likes: 99 |
Pennwood, you've gotten some good advice. I agree with the idea of pumping out the hole to see if it refills. That will tell you something, either way. If it refills, you're most likely at a water table. If it doesn't refill, that means the surrounding soils are porous and your water is making its exodus laterally through the bottom. Right now, it seems we are playing "ifs and buts"...however, I have a suggestion for you. If the pond bottom soils are, in fact, porous, you can line the pond bottom with clay as good as what was used in the dam. Odds are high that you have clay on your property, since that's where the clay came from to build your core for the dam. If my idea is feasible, here's how I can see it work. Using a scraper to move another two feet of soil off the entire pond bottom, use that dirt to fill a pit that you'll need to dig to supply your clay. Use the scraper to pull the clay from your property, bring it to the pond bottom and use a bulldozer to spread the clay in 4-6" lifts. Use a fully loaded scraper to compact the new clay in the pond bottom by driving back and forth over it. When the clay is moved into the pond (be sure it has proper moisture) bottom and compacted, use the excavated dirt to fill the newest pit. A natural clay liner is much less expensive and it's not hard to do, if you have the clay. To help understand and project the numbers, one acre, one foot deep, is 1,667 cubic yards of dirt. To line the entire bottom of a 3/4 pond two feet thick will mean you'll need about 3,000 cubic yards of clay. Anyway, stay with us, keep feeding some facts and you'll get some good answers. Also, invite your wife to come with you to the Pond Boss V Conference and Expo, October 11-13, at Big Cedar Lodge on the shores of Table Rock Lake in Missouri. The place will be loaded with experts, professionals and vendors who pretty much cover the gamut of pond building and management. Plus, my wife, the Queen, will have some cool spouse activities. We'll win her over...and you'll come away refreshed and loaded with knowledge you didn't even know you needed.
Teach a man to grow fish... He can teach to catch fish...
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 888
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 888 |
Pennwood, If your chert looks like those in the picture posted, that is awesome. I think the price they're asking is low unless it is inferior flint. Take some of yours to an artifact show and get some opinions. Plus your kids may love it. They are very interesting and informative. Your wife may even like it also .
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,386
Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,386 |
So PW, did you pump out the lower extremity and if so what happened?
Do nature a favor, spay/neuter your pets and any weird friends or relatives.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,435
Ambassador Hall of Fame 2014 Lunker
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Ambassador Hall of Fame 2014 Lunker
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,435 |
UPDATE... Whatever happened with this problem??
Just do it...
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