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Joined: Jun 2010
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Those of you with wells to feed your pond; how are you running the water into your ponds? Straight into the pond? Over rocks? Spraying in the air? Any pictures would be nice Also how did you set it up to keep it from freezing in the winter months. I'm struggling to come up with a simple solution, given I'm going to have a strong flow/pressure as the water exits the 1 1/4 pipe.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
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If you never shut it off, it'll never freeze.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Lunker
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Lunker
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With all the flow you have you shouldn't need to run it in the winter. Give you a chance to recover on the electric bills.
Have you given up on the stream idea? If I ever get a well I want to do two things, have a smaller cement pond (raise trout in it) and a stream/waterfall coming from the cement pond to the bigger pond.
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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If you never shut it off, it'll never freeze. To elaborate on this statement. May just want to run the lines below the frost line. Hit an expansion chamber of sorts where the warmer water collects prior to going in the pond.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Joined: Apr 2012
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I had a well drilled about two weeks ago. Still waiting for plumber to install a 50 gpm pump. I was considering going the same route of some type of trout pond ahead of main pond, with overflow being part of a waterfall. Any ideas on what size of pond this type of flow could support as far as water temps?
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Well I don't need to run it all the time, so I'm not going to run it in the winter. Either I do a stream, but getting it to look somewhat natural is th key. Even then you have to bring the water to the surface, so wouldn't you have some risk in it freezing, unless it drained back down.
Otherwise I would put it under the frost line, but then that puts the water comin in below the waterline and just directly in the pond. Is that how others do this?
Maybe I'm making this harder than I should?
Last edited by Bossone; 07/08/12 11:17 AM.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,714 Likes: 281
Lunker
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Lunker
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I am planning a similar project. I hope to run the line below frost and then come up and dump it into a much larger pipe that is buried into soil so it will have some freeze protection. The large pipe would run through stones placed to hide the end of the pipe, and the water would run over some smaller stones for a short distance to simulate a stream. I also do not know how to calculate a trout pond size from the GPM flow from a well in my area (especially to account for 100+ temps).
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,407 Likes: 788
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Run the inflow pipe below the frost line so it doesn't freeze. Bring it into the pond below where the pond will freeze. Make a 90° up, and drill a 1/4" hole in the elbow. Bring the pipe up above the pond surface and figure out how you want to end it to add O2. During the winter, move your shallow wintertime aeration diffuser close to where the water enters the pond to keep that area ice free. Drilling the hole allows the water to flow back into the pond so the water in the pipe is at pond level when the power is off. One more reason to have an aeration system.....
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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I had a well drilled about two weeks ago. Still waiting for plumber to install a 50 gpm pump. I was considering going the same route of some type of trout pond ahead of main pond, with overflow being part of a waterfall. Any ideas on what size of pond this type of flow could support as far as water temps? For a general idea. Check out Cecil's trout pond. (someone will have to find links to it) IIRC, his well produces 45gpm of near 50 degree water. It would be a good reference without getting into a bunch of crazy math. What ya getting for a well pump? For grins and giggles, ask your plumber about inverter controlled systems. They may use other terminology on the residential side of life, but essentially, it is a variable frequency controlled system. The right system (with some egghead work) could save you a boat load of cash in utility expenses. A bit more cash up front, but the payback would be sweet! Some utility companies also offer rebates for customers installing such systems.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,407 Likes: 788
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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It's also called a variable speed well pump. My driller told me about it, but he said that they were sensitive to lightening, and didn't recommend it - but that was 4 years ago. The price premium for that system was another thou$and, about a 30% increase over the fixed speed.
My driller did everything from start to finish - drill the well, install the pump, plumb the pump into the system, and hook everything up to electric.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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As long as everything is properly bonded to ground, and a good ground, lightening should not be a problem. We have had a number of systems take hit's and not skip a beat. (non residential) I really have not found anything in the residential realm that would be worth spending money on tho. They also do funky things with motors and controllers. Probably due to the fact that they are 20 years late to the party
Last edited by JKB; 07/11/12 06:46 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,407 Likes: 788
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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I revamped the electric service to the property a few years ago. Everything is bonded, and there's at least 2, possibly 3 ground rods in the system. One right at the meter/disconnect, but there's also a breaker box for the well there too, and IIRC 2 at the house.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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Still would love to see pictures of how people handle the water entering the pond.
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