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Jan 10th, 2023
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We are about a week and half underway on a new pond construction. The surface area will be somewhere between 2 and 3 acres. As of now we are planning on an 18 inch surface drain pipe, and an inline water level control structure (Agridrain) with a 6 inch PVC pipe. Does anyone have any experience with these? I will post pics as we progress.
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No answers for your questions, Matt, but welcome to Pond Boss! Can't wait to see pictures - we're kind of simple like that around here!
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Lunker
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Hi Matt,
Welcome to the forum! Glad you found it early in your pond's life, I didn't, and wish I had. Loads of great info and wonderful folks here. I'm up in the Appleton area, and you'd be welcome to swing by and see what I did for water control. I had some previous posts with diagrams. Looking forward to hearing more about your project.
Jeff
I used to think I was crazy and all alone...
Now I know I am not alone!
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I am still working on trying to figure out how to post pics. I am currently working on figuring out what I want for structure. I was considering having the contractor put in a small island before he finished up. Any thoughts or ideas on this?
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Posting Pics Use that link for posting pictures. Use: http://www.acme.com/planimeter/ to determine surface size.
Last edited by jludwig; 04/23/12 04:46 PM.
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I think island's are very cool! It's great structure and an extra area where fish can catch bugs of all sizes, and frogs and such! Could also be a great spot for a feeder if you ever decide to feed at some point. Of course that would depend on size of island. 
Last edited by RC51; 04/23/12 04:49 PM.
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
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Islnds ARE cool, BUT:
1) They provide good nesting habitat for geese.
2) In a small pond, they create problems if you want a deep pond.
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Last edited by esshup; 04/23/12 10:53 PM.
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A couple more pics:  
Last edited by esshup; 04/23/12 10:54 PM.
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Island: good place to get rid of extra dirt, but in addition to what esshup said,
(1) they will get overgrown with weeds if you don't maintain
(2) make your pond look smaller
I had one in my last 1A pond and didn't like it.
Just do it...
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We have the structure your looking for, looks like it's gonna be great!
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Just an idea instead of a dirt island. Build some floating islands. Then use your extra dirt to build a slip and slide hill into the pond for the kids. [img] http://.com/p3.UuKS3r[/img]
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Oh, that's awesome! What do you use for the slide itself? I have a fairly steep incline into the pond, and that may be a blast to set something up!
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We are still in the construction phase. I am planning on using a sand base then conveyor belt covered with epdm membrane. Another option is a roll of thick mil plastic sheeting. I am also looking at building up the pond edge to send the slider up and out a short distance. It's been a fun project and the kids can't wait for the slides.
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We have been rained out for the last week. There is another 5-6 feet of the dam to be built yet. Other than that, just shaping and removing 1000 yards of black dirt from pond basin, which the contractor is buying from me. Almost time to start adding structure and seeding the slopes. I have the side hills enrolled in CRP, and need to have everything reseeded by the 14th of May.
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What part of the state are you in?
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Very southwest corner of the state; a small town called Cuba City. We are about 15 miles from Iowa and Illinois.
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Very cool, I'm not far here in northern Illinois. I was just turkey hunting near you last week. Let me know if you need any help, would love to see your place as things progress.
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Peepaw where are you at in Northern Illinois? Have you ever heard of Keystone Hatcheries? It is in Richmond, IL, I had seen something on the internet on them. You are welcome anytime to come check out the project!
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Mike's my man at Keystone. He's less than 10 minutes from me and offers our habitat products as well. I buy all of our fish from him for our sportsman club stocking program for our private 830 acre lake, Wonder Lake. Great outfit to work with!
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Good to hear that about Keystone! They can deliver to me for $29 which is very reasonable, so I was hoping they were recommended. Thanks.
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Matt:
Same here - checky your PM's. I'll probably be going up to Keystone in the next week or so for some fish for a pond in Illinois.
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So currently the dam is a little over halfway done. Up until yesterday the contractors hadn't worked in a week due to rain. There is currently 2-3 feet of water in the basin area. Upon inspection yesterday I found a very small trickle of water starting just below the dam (where dam meets undisturbed soil). There was always a small spring that started in this area. The water drop in the basin yesterday was about 1/4". My concern is where is the water coming from and what will happen and much higher pond volume with the increased water pressure.
The core trench was fairly deep into very good clay and nothing was trickling prior to recent rains, although another 30 yards below dam there was some running water.
Is this anything to be concerned about, or is it too early too tell. The contractor was a little concerned.
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Only a little concerned? Springs can be nightmares anywhere around a pond.
If the spring is truly behind the dam it might not be a problem but it is hard to tell. 1/4" drop isn't a big deal. The water is wicking back into dry soil.
Were there any wet spots when doing the core trench?
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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At this point are there any recommendations? It was a little wet 15 yards up hill of the core trench (with a little trickle of water flowing down from there. We were fairly confident to have blocked that flow off with core trench, but there were other springs in the vicinity that showed themselves in wetter years.
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I wish I could help but I'm sure these guys will jump in and give you the advice you need. Has anyone talked about ESS13?
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ESS13 has shown to have very mixed results.
Recommendation: Either find another place to put a pond or wait and see what happens.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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So we got about 3" of rain on Saturday morning. This took the still not quite finished pond up to about 1/3 pool or 6 feet deep. It is still wet on the backside where dam meets the undisturbed ground level. As of yesterday the rate of loss of water has been basically the same as evaporation as I placed a 5 gallon bucket with water next to a yard stick in the water to monitor the levels. We are losing a little under 1/2 inch per day, but it has been very hot, dry, and windy, with low humidity. Based on this I don't know what to think about the wetness below the dam. Even with increased water pressure the loss has not increased. I am hoping that the wet area downstream is from water running down from hillsides below core trench and funneling into the ditch. I will follow with pics soon.
Does anyone know if it is OK to use oats or annual rye as cover with WSG's to help prevent erosion? Thanks.
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You can use them. The WSG will out compete them next year.
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I know there has been many posts on wells. I just had a couple thoughts/ questions on this. The pond is almost done. Hopefully a shop will go up on the property this fall. The plan then is to begin building a house on the property next year. I just received my bid to get electric for $8000. I also received a bid for a well for the pond for $10,000 (all inclusive to 240' with 25 gpm pump, wiring, etc.).
The DNR prohibits above 70 gpm well capacity per property without a permit and annual fees, so I want to stay below that. Does it make more sense to have two separate wells, one for house and buildings and one for the pond, or a higher capacity single well? The single well will end up being quite a bit cheaper. Any input appreciated. Thanks once again!!
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Sorry guys for another question, but does anyone have a source for FHM, I am in SW WIsconsin. I think it is about time to go ahead with them.
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At the risk of being chastized by my wife for spending too much time on the Pond boss forum after work again, I am posting a few pics. Does anyone else have this problem? Maybe it is a Wisconsin thing, but I doubt it. I have a feeling that it is a North American syndrome, that has spread to other parts of the globe. I grew up in northern Wisconsin's Bayfield and Douglas counties, on the south shore of Lake Superior. Now, first thing in the morning, I multi-task as I take my Kindle or my SmartPhone into the bathroom while I sit and wait for the shower water to heat up! As a kid back home, at that time of day, I just got to read the pages that were left in the outhouse catalogs. Now you've got me really wishing I was still back home. It took at least 2-3 hours for the sauna to heat up. Uffda, Suomi Knute (Ken)
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Ken,
Well that syndrome is a tough one, it progresses rapidly and can be debilitating.
Sometimes the girls I work with have to drag me away from the computer because I am keeping patients waiting, and backing up the schedule.
Is there a forum to help me with this?
Matt
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You, and our really good Pond Boss friend Bruce Condello, may need to spend some time together! He has been known to stop half-way through a root canal to answer questions on the forum about filamentous algae affecting the catch-rate attitudes of northern-strain bluegill.
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You, and our really good Pond Boss friend Bruce Condello, may need to spend some time together! He has been known to stop half-way through a root canal to answer questions on the forum about filamentous algae affecting the catch-rate attitudes of northern-strain bluegill. I absolutely resemble that remark.
Holding a redear sunfish is like running with scissors.
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Talk to your well driller to see if there is a way to keep water pressure in the house (and fill the bladder tanks) AND run a goodly volume of water to the pond at the same time. If he says yes, please let me know how to do it.   Is the 70 gpm based on the pump(s) rating, or actual water pumped? I'm putting 25 gpm into my sand soil dug pond now, and all it will do is keep the level the same - it can't raise the pond level any. If I want water pressure in the house, I have to shut off the water to the pond. I'd get as close to the 70 gpm limit as you could.
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Fingerling
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Fingerling
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I put two pumps in one well casing. One 12GPM for the home, and a second 20GPM for the pond. This was much less expensive than drilling a second well.
My pond came 10 years after building the home. Fortunately I had a "smart" well company and the water capacity flowing into the well to support the second pump. The pond pump is positioned above the house pump so if the water table should drop my home does not run out of water (never had a problem with either).
Wisconsin code does require that there is an "air break" between the pond and the well so there is no chance that pond water can back flow into the well. This means that the well needs to be above the level of the pond.
Last edited by arond; 06/01/12 10:47 AM.
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Matt thanks for the pics. When you get it all in take a couple more pics and I will add them to the archive on structure.
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Keep in mind that the evergreen tree will not last very many years than 4-6. Plan now how you will replace it.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine -
America's Journal of Pond Management
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The dry weather continues, so we are proceeding with new electric service and a well. I am going to go ahead and put in a dedicated well for the pond, planning on using 50 gpm pump. With a full basin SA of about 2 ac. this will allow about an 1.5 inch change per day. When running PVC to the pond from the well should I bury it below frost line or is this not needed? Secondly, would it be best to go ahead with aeration installation prior to pond filling? Thanks again!
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Fingerling
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Fingerling
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I would go below the frost line or otherwise you will probably be forced to blow out the line every fall to prevent freezing. This also gives you the option to pump water year around if needed.
Just about everything is easier to do when the pond is empty. The best thing I did was pour concrete pier pilings and now do not have to take the pier out in winter.
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Sorry guys I keep forgetting to bring the camera. As of now we still haven't starting pumping water, but we are close. Hopefully I can flip the switch next week, which with this drought is going to be the only way I fill this pond in 2012. I went with a 5 HP 58 gpm pump with an electronic timer as I don't live on site. The electrician is running electric along side my water line to the pond so I can plug in my aerator (Vertex Air 1 plus package). Structure is now complete. This includes 50 yards of large rocks that makes up three rock piles, ten porcupine fish attractors, 100 cinder blocks, 20 pallets, several tires, two loads of gravel spread in various areas for spawning, and the 12 poles that my dock will be built on. I just used the bucket on my tractor to deepen area off of dock to 8-9' so kids can jump off. I will post pics yet this weekend, but anything else I need to do before I flip the switch?
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That seems like a lot of HP for that GPM. I'm pumping half that volume of water with 1/5 (or less) the hp. (I forget whether it's a 1 hp or a 3/4 hp motor)
Will you be somehow getting the well water mixed with air before it goes into the pond?
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Are you pumping 25 gpm or is that the rating of the pump? I need 5 HP to get close to my 58 gpm with a vertical depth to water of 180 ft. Anything less than 5 HP and I would be sacrificing on the output.
I will mix the water by flowing it over a sloped section of rocks prior to entering pond.
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Rated putput is 28 gpm. I've only got 13' head and the way that I have the water going to the pond, it transitions to 3" PVC within 10' of the bladder tank. When the valve is all the way open to the pond, I have barely enough pressure to trickle out of the faucet, or fill the toilet tank.
You're saying that the surface of the water in your well casing is static at 180' below the ground surface? Or is that the depth of the well? My well is 66' deep, but static water level in the casing is 13' below ground level. It's a 4" well, but when sunk, we doubled up on the well screen. The driller said that by changing the pump it would pump 100 gpm.
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My well is 250' deep, and the water starts at 150'. The pump is placed at 189'. With that depth, I need the 5 HP to get the rated output. This is a 4" well also.
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Matt, you've got 100' of head just to get the water to the surface.
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Matt, you've planned it out pretty well.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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Ok, for an update, we turned the water on today at 11 am. I am pumping about 4000 gallons/ hr, and as of dark the pond had begun noticeably climbing. I couldn't wait to get done with work to see it!! I may have not been quite as chatty with the last few patients, but I did have good cause! On a side note I now have a great excuse for running out to the farm every night now; I just tell my wife I need to make sure there are no problems with the pump.
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WOW; 4k gph. My well is 1/10 gpm.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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Hall of Fame
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Matt, do you have ny pictures of how you are getting he water to the pond? It's looking good!
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I will post some pics of how I am getting water to the pond, albeit it is a temporary setup. We are going to bury a line as soon as the corn is picked, allowing us to take a straight shot vs. snaking the pipe along the edge of the woods like it is now. Currently there is 550 feet of 4" corrugated tubing carrying the water to the pond. This will not be what we bury.
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Very nice! I better start building to structure to put in mine quickly. I've got more pallets than I know what to do with at work. I guess I'll put them to use.
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Up 16 inches over last night, 24 inches in 32 hours. Obviously as surface area increases the rate of climb will drop, but nevertheless I was impressed. I did take pics and will post them later.
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Looks like a playground for fish! Fantstic job mixing up the types,textures and sizes of habitat. Well done!
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Dale ![[Linked Image from i90.photobucket.com]](http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k247/jmilczski/Fish/PBSubscribe.gif) "When tempted to fight fire with fire, remember that the Fire Department usually uses water." - anonymous
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Up another 7 inches in the last 18 hrs!!
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Wow awesome. Think your hose would reach my pond? ;-)
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Maybe, I will need another 4 million gallons then its all yours!!!
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We have climbed another foot in the last two days, only about 11 more feet to go. Going way back in this thread I had early concerns about leakage due to springs. So far all seems well, but I guess I won't know until I stop pumping and watch the water level.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
Are there any plants that I can put in now before the pond is full? WE still have another 9 feet to go, so obviously it would have to be somehting that floats or could be submerged. Any ideas out there?
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,539 Likes: 845
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,539 Likes: 845 |
If you can keep the soil wet up near the full pool level, Arrowhead and Pickerelweed are good marginal plants.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
Papershell crayfish (150), FHM, and GSH are now living in the new pond. My bluntnose minnows, spotfin shiners, and johnny darters will arrive within the week as well.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,151 Likes: 491
Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator
Ambassador
Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,151 Likes: 491 |
Matt - where did you get your stock from?. The info may help others interested in similar things.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 08/08/12 01:42 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine -
America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 191
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 191 |
Yes, Matt where did you get your crayfish? I was told you can't buy them in WI.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
I had them shipped, and if you can't buy them in WI then I never received them. Smith Creek Fish Farm, www.smithcreekfishfarm.com , next day live delivery guaranteed on the papershell crayfish.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
The pond is still climbing. Thinking about getting feeders soon. I am going to mount one on the dock. I have a 6" round post that it will be mounted on, any ideas on a good one that would work for this application, and how I can purchase it? Thanks once again!!
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
About four feet from full pool, with the larger surface area, I am only gaining about 3" a day now. The dock is complete, the walk bridge over one of the fingers is almost done. Seeing minnow fry, most likely from the fathead minnows.
Most of my cover is now under water.
Now for a couple of stocking questions. I have fathead minnows stocked since May. I stocked the rest of the forage a month ago. Is there anything wrong with stocking HBG this fall?
I assume I should wait on the SMB, WE, and YP until next spring, correct? If these were stocked in the 2-3" range, and I stocked an additional 100 pounds of forage at the same time this fall, could I go ahead with fall stocking? Sorry for the multiple questions, and thanks again in advance.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,539 Likes: 845
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,539 Likes: 845 |
Either or would work. It might be better stocking everything in the Fall due to limited availability in the Spring. If you wait, just be sure that the fish stocked in the Spring are bigger than the HBG can eat (well, not the FHM )
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,055 Likes: 277
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,055 Likes: 277 |
Additional 100 pounds of forage in 3 acres?
What #/lbs of forage have you already stocked?
What will your entire stocking plan be?
Sorry if this has already been posted.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
The initial stocking of forage was light, maybe a pound of FHM, 50 bluntnose minnows, 50 johnny darters, and 50 spotfin shiners, 150 papershell crayfish.
The stocking plan is for 50 WE, 100 SMB, 200 YP, and 500 HBG. I have been kicking around a supplemental fall/ winter fishery of 100-150 RBT.
The additional forage would be 80# FHM, and 20#GSH. Can you go overboard on the forage?? Other than the cash outlay is this a bad idea? I figured since I might be cutting the time short between forage introduction and stocking, I could artificially augment this with a very heavy forage stocking at time of the predator introduction.
The pond is aerated, has average depth of about 8-10 feet (deepest of around 20), and will be feeding Silver Cup via Texas Hunter feeder. Thanks for any input.
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 910
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 910 |
You have a beautiful place. I think 80 lbs. of fatheads in 3 acres would be like Mrs. Parton daughter wearing a padded bra. You don't need that much.
Two ponds, 13 and 15 acres on the Mattaponi River.
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94
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OP
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 94 |
Yeah I know that was overkill especially since there was an existing population but since I opted for a winter RBT fishery, and I am aerated to prevent a DO drop from too much biomass, I got carried away.
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