Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Muddy water New Pond Is Cloudy

We finished constructing a new 3/4 acre pond 10 months ago. The pond is more than half full and I'm becoming more and more disillusioned. The hallmark of the new pond was supposed to be its clear water. It hasn't rained here in about 12 days, yet the pond is still cloudy. It has virtually no watershed. It was built on high ground specifically so that it wouldn't receive muddy runoff.

I realize that the clay banks are still bare (despite planting grass seed), and that there are no weeds in the water yet, but I was wishing for far clearer water than this. Does anyone have any ideas on whether it will clear up? Thanks for any feedback! Here are some pics showing the problem:

OK, so my post has gone unanswered, but I won't be deterred. I'll take this lull as an opportunity to add some pertinent information. Here is a photo of the same jar of water to which I added about 1/4 teaspoon of alum (from the spice section of the grocery store). I stirred it in and allowed it to settle for 20 hours.

The before and after photos are dramatic. Now that I know alum does the trick, does this mean I have to use it to clear our new pond? Will the eventual growth of weeds, or some other natural process clear the pond too? Again, any help is most appreciated.

Sandman..little will grow on the bare clay. Wind/wave action will help to keep water constantly stirred and clouded with clay unless you have the Ohio common style rock rip rap to prevent bank soil mixing and erosion. If available, mix an inch or two of topsoil withe the top 3 inches or more of clay pool area and re-compact the soil mixture and you should have little problem getting plant growth then.

To aid in clearing, you could spread powdered or granulated Alum, hydrated and Ag limes on the exposed clay areal along with alum in the water. (if you have added fish already, be sure to use hydrated lime at a weight of 1/2 of the ponds of alum used. This will not help with any mechanical mixing, but will make the clay fines quickly fall back to the bottom when the water agitation calms.

Rainman, thank you! But, I think it's too late. The basin of the pond is now covered with water. Unless I drain it, I can't see a way to mix topsoil in with the clay. Maybe I'm not understanding.

Ah, your second answer clears it up some. There are no fish stocked yet. They're scheduled to arrive in 6-7 weeks from now. I think however that I should use some lime in the mixture just to be safe. Thanks for setting out a good plan for us.

Adding some topsoil around the bank to a water depth of 3-4', your greatest wind/wave turbulance zone.

Mr Sandman, Your photos could be pics of my pond in some areas. I have the same problem with water clarity and nothing growing on my banks. Last year i used the alum and it cleared my pond very quickly, however over the coarse of the year it has clouded back up from wind action and rain. So do not worry about the clarity issue cause it can be solved. This year I am concentrating on getting vegatation on my banks before spending the money on clearing the pond. My Idea is to mow part of my field adjacent to my pond and rent a sod cutter (75 per day). You can adjust the depth of the sod cutter to get about three to four inches of top soil along with the sod. I am going to lay at least three to four rows of sod along the entire bank. I think that will def. help in your situation also if you have an area you can cut from. It is fairly simple to do. Something else I have been doing is if you notice the wet area just above your water line...I have been sowing clover and rye in that "wet" area and having luck with it germinating and growing without the need too water. Then as the water rises or lowers I just keep reseeding the wet areas and have started to get a nice stand of clover and rye along the water line. Slowly but surely my banks are greening up. I have been using crimson clover and annual rye because they do a little better in clay soils on my place. Then as rainman suggested I have been gathering rocks and placing large areas of riprap along the wind blown banks. The way it looks with a little help from mother nature I may be able to clear my pond again next month with the alum and lime and hopefully with all the new vegatation and rocks it will stay clear this year. Hope this helps.

Was this pond by any chance filled with well water? If so this looks just like a pond I just filled and in my case it's precipitated iron. If so it will settle in several days. My newly filled ponds take on a yellow brown color from the iron, then it becomes a green, then a light green, and finally crystal clear.

Alum will settle iron also although it shouldn't be necessary. (If it is indeed iron.)

I've used alum in my ponds and never had to use any lime or sodium bicabonate to stabilize the PH as my alkalinity is quite high and the ponds are well buffered.

Here's a pic of my recently filled trout pond. The color is off in the picture as it's more of a yellow/brown than green as shown here.

Sooo... I guess a well wasn't used even though it has no watershed?

Rainman, Ozark and Cecil, thank you all! No, I didn't use well water, the only water filling my pond is from rain and snow. There's no watershed at all. The pond was purposely dug on high ground to avoid muddy runoff. Cecil's photo does look strikingly like mine though.

I really like the idea of seeding that small moist strip near shore with clover and rye. That would have to help and it's an easy step. I don't know if I want to rip up any sod on my property, but it sure has me thinking.

The top soil idea is great too. How 'bout I just add top soil all around the pond and also on the inside bank? Then I can seed the whole area.

I'm definitely going to try the alum though. Even if it clears the pond up for just a few months, it will be aesthetically pleasing. Also, the first fish are arriving soon and I'd like the fathead minnows to be able to see each other to spawn.

Now I have to find a test kit fast to test my PH to see if I really need the lime. Any ideas on where to find a modestly priced kit?

Thanks again!

You can get swimming pool test strips from any home improvement store. The strips will give you a good idea of where your pH is but you can get more sophisticated test kits at a pool supply store.

FWIW...FH LOVE muddy waters...

MrSandman,
I've rarely met a pond with clear water as it first fills. As a matter of fact, I can't think of one, ever. With disturbed soils, little vegetation surrounding that fresh-moved dirt, expect the water to be muddy. That's normal.
Alum will settle it quickly. Gypsum could do it, too. But, given some time, it might settle by itself.
The guys are correct...you need to vegetate the bare dirt above the water line. That will minimize future issues of muddy water flowing into your pond.

Bob, once again I'm honored that you answered my post! A lawn care expert and my excavator both agree with you. We're now looking to put in topsoil and seed. The top and the outsides of the banks will be easy. I'm hoping we can do it on the inner banks as well, all the way down to the water level. Thanks so much!

Mr. Sandman,

Not sure if you'd want to go to the expense but I've staked burlap over my topsoil and seed to keep things in place until the grass gets going. The grass comes right up through the burlap and then the burlap rots by the time the grass has taken hold. The burlap will keep the soil in and keep your water crystal clear until the grass takes hold.

There's a company called Dayton Burlap in Dayton, Ohio that sells 300 by 6 foot rolls for about $100.00. At least that's what it was when I last bought it. That's not including shipping of course.

If it's not a watershed pond, and you aren't using a well, I'd be concerned about low water levels at some point.

Cecil, thanks! I'm a bit concerned about the water level too. Last spring and summer were unusually wet and the water has just kept rising. I haven't seen an inch lost to evaporation yet, but I'm holding my breath.

I really like your suggestion about the burlap. I'll take the idea up with my experts. Thank goodness for you guys and my local experts!

The burlap is a good idea. It'll help hold the seeds in place if you get rain, and help mitigate some erosion issues until the grass gets a good foothold.

And it's made in Ohio so shipping won't be as terrible for the Sandman!