Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Easy Economical Fish Hauling Tank!

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I came across a ingenious little economical hauling tank (scroll down) you can build yourself recently at a Sportsman's Show in Howe, Indiana. The Gentlemen that was hauling around the smaller version of the Hawg Trough was kind enough to show it to me.




Many of you have probably seen one of two different versions of the Hawg Trough that is hauled around different venues all across the country. The above one is the smaller one. It's owned by Jim Vitaro of Wooster, Ohio. I believe Jim was ill this past weekend so the gentlemen I talked to was not him. I'm embarrassed to say I forgot his name.

Anyway, here is the hauling tank they transfer the fish into when he's on the road. Obviously it wouldn't make sense to haul one of the Hawg Troughs down the highway full of water and fish! Can you imagine the weight!



It's simply one of those oval stock tanks (maybe rubbermaid?) that has a plywood lid bolted to the top. A cutout top of a flimsier tub is mounted to the opening of the plywood with a the corresponding lid that snaps in place.



A locking strap of course holds the lid on.


A 12 volt agitator provided air and there is an air stone in the bottom for oxygen. I doubt you'd need the oxygen for lesser loads and shorter trips.

As you can see, expandable and/or spray on foam is applied to the outside for insulation. It's not pretty but it does the job. It appears to be waterproof.

Oh, and there is a drain installed in the bottom (see photo) probably with a small bulkhead fitting. You could use a Uniseal and glue in a PVC ring on the inside to hold the pipe piece in. It would be cheaper than buying a bulkhead fitting.

Seems like a cool set up but it also seems like a waste of good macaroni and cheese.

You could hold the mac and cheese if you don't need it.

CB1 -I'm a little confused. In the middle picture the agitator is located away from the tote tub. Is there more water involved than just that in the tote tub in the center? Just water in the tote tub does not seem like very much water to haul a decent number of fish esp larger fish. How big was the tote tub - 20-30 gal? Does the whole top of the larger container lift off? If so what is the point of the tote tub?

Bill,

Not sure about the gallons but as you can see it's about the width of a truck bed. With the addition of pure oxygen that increases the amount of fish you can haul significantly. The hauler told me they add salt, prophylactics, and antibiotics, which is fine as these fish are not food fish.

The tank is one unit. No compartments. The raised opening you see is jut the top cut off of a much smaller tote and mounted in to create an opening. The agitator is off to the side.

Does that answer your questions?

Bill, I believe the tote tub is just used as an access cover for the 175 gallon oval Rubbermaid stock tank that is enclosed in the foam.

Correct!

Scot (Esshup) has informed me that the foam could be pricey. I don't know about your hardware store but my Ace seems to have a 2000 percent mark up! If I do this I think I can get it cheaper by ordering and or picking up from a foam supplier near me (Jameson, Niles, Michigan)

On the other hand certain times of the year insulation may not be necessary. If you just want to pick up fish for your pond once a year, and it's fairly cool out you could forego the foam. Might look better too! LOL

The foam kits that I found for doing home DIY insulation were pricey. (at least I thought so)

1 sq. foot, 1" thick was $1. R6.7@1" thickness. That's without shipping costs, and they have to ship HazMat due to the pressurized containers.

I need to insulate the crawlspace under the house.......

Foam is going to be pricy.

I doubt the longevity of the open foam exposed to UV and the elements.

Short term and expensive!

At least they had fun in the process!

What about sandwiching the foam board 1" in-between 2 sheets of ply wood?
Same effect only it would look better

I did not notice the side were insulated also.

Thought it was whicker

Okay thanks for the clarification. I see now that the bottom has been cut out of the tote and it is just molded into the top/lid for access, although it is not a very large user friendly access opening. IMO it would be hard chasing fish in the ends of the big tank with a net from that small opening.

Perhaps a design improvement would be to put hinges on one side of the plywood and tank so that the whole top opens. Then put some type of gasket around the top of the tank so the plywood could seal against it in the closed position.

So apparently you haven't priced commercial fiberglass hauling tanks?

I'll bet the foam lasts longer than you think. It depends on the density.

Oh Bill all you have to do is jack the truck up on one side!

O.K. guys maybe the foam isn't economical. But I can see during the times of year up here when you are mostly likely to pick up fish from the hatchery it's cool enough not to have to insulate a tank. Then it's really really economical compared to a commercial fiberglass tank!

The small access hole does result in a lot less area where water can spill out. Creating a good, well fitting gasket on the lid for the large oval Rubbermaid tank would take creativity. I know that some here could definately 'handle' that task. I haul my fish in a carpeted van with back seats removed and I like a tight fitting lid.

I had one of those van's once Also made a few Fathers nervous while in possession of said van I was always a nice guy

The foam in the picture will certainly degrade being exposed to the elements. After a while you could rub your hand over it and millions of fractional pieces will be all over the place and floating around. It will also absorb water making it ineffective as an insulator. It needs to be encased without the ability of moisture getting in. Skin usually forms over the surface because that is the first part to cure. Erroneously, it is thought to be water proof and a vapor barrier. The skin is a vapor barrier to an extent.

Quick short term fix.

Esshup: Huge difference in this foam and structural foam, which you may be thinking of.

Sealed Stainless Steel Tanks with foam insulation injected would make a beautiful hauling tank.

The foam on this tank is only a short term fix. Don't do it thinking that it is the last dollar you are going to spend on a fish hauling rig... Many more will follow Dollars that is

You can spend many more dollars on short term band aids than real and productive solutions. Live your life in that hole, that is all you get!

These 110 gal. tanks are inexpensive, with the cone shape you could put one inside the other, with some 2x4's inside one on the bottom and side's for spacing, then spray in foam to insulate between the two. This should keep the foam safe from abrasion and uv deteriation. A sandwich of plywood with a foam sheet in the middle could be used for the top.
The lip on the bottom tank would also make it easier to move around and provide a place for securing it.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tuff-stuff-products-heavy-duty-oval-tank-110-gal--2229862

I've seen where they say to coat any foam that is exposed to UV with elastomer paint.

AP, I like your idea. Drill a larger hole in the exterior tank to make room for a drain pipe from the inner tank.

Just making a tight fitting lid won't keep all the water in. Once it sloshes, it pushes up on the lid with a LOT of force. You gotta have some way to firmly anchor down the ends and sides to the tank to make the seal do its work.

Probably using J bolts on the lid should keep it secured to the lip of the tank.

I have seen... Is not the same as "I have done" and can actually make a True Statement!

No big deal. I doubt anyone else is going to buy 50 cans of spray on foam in a pinch that they created in the first place.

Be prepared, Know what the heck you are doing. Assumptions are a bad bit of territory to stay in for any length of time

Hey Cecil, I'm with you... I have an older style fiberglass transport tank, and I would feel more comfortable hauling the one in the photograph around than mine for very long. I'd say the one in the above photo is a bit more shock resistant.

http://www.memphisnet.net/category/transporttanks

Stainless steel? Have any idea what a double skin stainless steel tank,and foamed to boot would cost?That's alot of tigging, and they arent exactly giving away stainless now adays. Shoot if price is no object just go buy yourself a gut wagon

The lowest cost and easiest way to insulate between 2 tanks would be a 2 part foam used in many marine applications at about $10 per cubic ft., another way is use sheet foam for the flat bottom and side sections and fill in with can foam on the curves.

AP, is that 2 part foam sprayable. or like it comes out of those single use cans that you get at the big box store?