This is a piece of land I'm looking to buy. It's 4 acres long by 2 wide. 2 natural rain creeks run through it that are dry most of the time. 4-5ft natural elevation drop from each side down to the creek. Looking to put a 1 to 1 1/2 acre pond there. Leave some of the timbers in the deeper sections/creek standing. Look at the pics and any suggestions are appreciated. I'm in SW missouri.
Sorry no topography. How about some referrals in the Sw missouri area on pond builders. Had 2 dozer/excavators out, however I'm looking for a experienced builder. Want it done right the first time.
Hunt up ponds in the area and start asking questions about who did it. See if you can find someone who has done several and has happy customers. There is a lot of difference in someone who can build a place to water cattle and one who builds homes for fish.
Buy the book. It could save you thousands of dollars.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP
Hunt up ponds in the area and start asking questions about who did it. See if you can find someone who has done several and has happy customers. There is a lot of difference in someone who can build a place to water cattle and one who builds homes for fish.
Buy the book. It could save you thousands of dollars.
Amen. A little homework will save you the "oh crap syndrome."
Shawn Banks is a few hours North of you but is a great Pond Management pro and would certainly know someone he could refer you to.
You mentioned leaving standing timber in the pond - I'd advise you to remove all of it - per Bob Lusk. Makes poor cover, is snaggy, and roots could lead to eventual leaks. You need more significant cover to benefit your fishery. I think standing timber always looks awesome and "fishy", but have learned otherwise thanks to the Forum. Just a suggestion.
Good luck on your pond project, you are definitely in the right place for guidance. Welcome aboard.
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
I think some standing timber is good. Cut the tops off a few feet above full pool level and drop the tops at the base of the tree. Leave a few in groups of 4 or so trees per group.
They wok best as part of an over all structure plan. They do well standing in creek beds or on ridge tops (cover on bottom structure). See Ray Scott's Presidents Lake plan.
A typical Ray Scott rendition of a pond with this method (pickle bucket method) and ridges , cuts and standing timber etc.
Actually Mike Otto, not Lusk, suggested in a recent PB article that standing timber did not serve as good cover - my error. Lusk has commented that timber above the waterline should be removed, it serves no purpose, except to serve as a perch for commorants to feast on your fish. My pond builder needed to remove my trees in order to get to good clay beneath, I had no choice but to remove all my huge cottonwoods and stumps. I have since allowed a couple 25' Ash trees to fall into the water to provide some brushy structure for YP to lay strands. At any rate, this is what fuels my statement on standing timber. Eric is illuminating there are two sides to this topic, guess it depends on personal preference and the situation at the time of pond construction, like in my case. Certainly Ray Scott knows how to build a pond...as does Eric.
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after. ~ Henry David Thoreau
I think the biggest factor driving whether the trees stand or go is:
Can the pond builder seal the bottom of the pond to ensure it doesn't leak with the trees in place? If so, then I'd cut them off a couple inches above full pool mark and leave them. (so their location was visible)
A reputable contractor is always preferred. You want a contractor that has local experience and has many lake construction jobs under their belt.
When we perform site assessments for our customers our report always suggest interviewing potential contractors and include certain questions, the most important being:
What type of equipment do own and what type do you plan on using?
Run as fast as you can from a contractor that says they will only use a dozer.
Also ask how they will achieve compaction, if they say they will walk in the soil with a dozer.......RUN!!!!
We also suggest having a geotech survey to determine the best soils at the site. You can have clays that field test well (ribbon test, bucket test) but may not be the most desirable.
I agree ewest. When I build mine I am going to do everything possible to have at least some standing timber.
Also agree the easy/less problematic way and the way most experts advise is to cut all the timber. But I am hard-headed, unconventional, and want some standing timber.... so whatever the obstacles I will deal with them.
Quick question guys. I have a uncle that works with the foresty service and warned me about building on a waterway. Said could be big fines. I told him this "creek" is more of a run off for rain water. Can you guys tell by the pics 49,51 if this would be classified as a waterway..Thanks.
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