Pond Boss Forums AQUATIC VEGETATION Controlling unwanted plants Is it too late to spray cat tails in the Midwest?

I am still working on controlling my cattail problem on the pond. We have cleared some areas and are making some headway. Is it too late in the season for me to spray a bunch of them? I don't want to incur the expense if it wont do much good.

Brian, I'd spray them whenever I could. If any have catkins on them, cut them off before the winter. Don't forget to add a good surfactant to the mix.

It is actually more effective to spray them late in the season. As they go dormant, they will more readily transport the chemical to the tuber. As esshup mentioned, use a good surfactant and try to get as much coverage on the plant as possible.

I know this is probably beating a dead horse here but I'm in the same boat with cattails. In an effort to save some expense and try to stay away from chemicals I've been pulling the vicous little buggers by hand. I was counting them but after hours and hours and a few adult beverages I lost count...I've had enough blisters and I'm ready to spray them. Will Cutrine with a surfactant work on them?

Also, after they die what is the best thing to do with the remaining dead vegetation. Sorry if I highjacked your post coach...

Cutrine will have no effect. The most commonly used chemical would probably be aquatic approved glyphosate.

Something like these

After they are dead you can cut them below the water and haul them off. I have also heard of people burning them but I've never tried it. You could probably get quite an inferno on your hands if it's a good stand.

If you don't like the thought of "spraying", and you don't have too large of an area to manage, you might consider building or buying a rope-wick applicator.
I built two rope-wick applicators last night in 20 minutes for a customer who needs to selectively treat cattails within stands of water-iris. The parts were around $15 per applicator - mostly comprised of the pvc ball-valve ($3.50) and the two brass-pvc adapters ($3.50 ea): all available at Home Depot. The stainless-steel screws threaded into the adapters engage the rope and prevent it from pulling out.
The handle serves as a reservoir to hold a high concentration of glyphosate herbicide + water (usually 50:50), with the ball-valve positioned at the handle's base to regulate or shut-off fluid-flow to the wick (rope). Don't forget to install a threaded-cap at the upper-end of the handle/reservoir.
Once the wick is wetted with solution, either partially or completely close the ball-valve until the wick needs more solution. Use the wand-wick to wipe the solution onto targeted plants - but avoid overwetting the wick and dripping solution onto any desirable plants.

We use an even simpler system which does require a bit more time but is easy to do. Put on a cotton glove over a rubber glove and use the cotton glove as the applicator by dipping it in the gylphosate solution and then grabbing the undesirable plant and pulling your hand up over the plant. Works great for willows. We have prevented cattails by pulling twice a month. Started with thousands of volunteers per year and now have a couple dozen per year in 4 bodies of water. I enjoy walking around the pond anyway. Just started the process over with a new wetland, but less than 100 have volunteered in the new area this year. Cattails pull easily as seedlings.

Yes, that method has been around for quite awhile - as has the rope-wick concept. The double-glove method is fine for some situations. But, the extended reach of a pole-mounted wick is invaluable when targeted plants are surrounded by desirables - expecially in soggy-mud areas where one's ability to walk, balance and hold a solution-bucket are challenged.
I've been known to use a Q-tip to treat individual sedge-weeds in my flowerbed - since pulling them up usually prompts two or three plants to take their place.

yeh, I have been around for quite a while too.

I remember years ago, someone marketed a tractor mounted rope-wick applicator for ag use.My God in heaven I'm one of the old guys now!!!

Yup! We be them now.

Years ago I remember reading ponders using Roundup in stead of Rodeo I think it was to take out cattails. Then later years later I had two ponder/farmer friends that used Roundup on their cattails since they had plenty of Roundup in barrels. To kill weeds and grass in my drive I use a very cheap "ELIMINATOR weed & grass killer" $8 makes 10 gallons. A month ago I did a small test spray on cattails and spatterdock and both died. Next year I will probably do a little spot spraying from my boat. Any thoughts on this?

Round-up and Rodeo are both formulations of glyphosate. Round-up has surfactants in it that can harm aquatic animals, So, of the two, only Rodeo is labled for aquatic use.

Excerpt from the label for ELIMINATOR Weed & Grass Killer "Super Concentrate", which is manufactured by Monsanto .

I think that Rodeo is also manufactured by Monsanto.

RODEO was originally produced and marketed by Monsanto, until it was acquired by Dow Chemical Co in 1999.

Kelly, the wick thing is sweet. I will work on one this weekend. I have also used the glove of death method. I will get on it this weekend. thanks for all of the advice and ideas. I love this sight!

Required Components:
¾” x 10’ PVC Pipe (The main handle is roughly 6' long. It becomes too flimsy if cut any longer.)
¾” Smooth x 1” FPT End Cap with 1” MPT Plug
¾” PVC Ball-Valve
¾” 45-degree El
¾” x ¾” x ½” FPT PVC Offset Tee
¾” x ½” FPT PVC El
½” MPT CPVC/Brass Adapters (2 ea)
5/8” Braided Nylon Rope (2’+)
#8-1” Stainless Sheet-metal screws (2) > pre-drill pilot-holes to avoid cracking the PVC
PVC Cleaner & Glue (clear)
PVC Cutting Tool

Threading the rope through the two ½” fittings is the toughest part (it’s a very tight fit, but needs to be in order to avoid leakage). Don’t burn the rope-ends, and make sure the ends extend far inside the PVC el-fittings. I usually “condition” the rope prior to first-use by applying surfactant or liquid soap and letting it dry - to increase the rope's wicking-action. In use, the rope should be wetted almost to the point of dripping. If dripping is noticed, simply close the ball-valve until the wick needs more solution.
Also be sure to use a much higher concentration of herbicide through this device. Coverage of the plant is much less with the wick-applicator than with spraying - so the wick-applied concentration needs to be much stronger than a typical spray-mixture.

no worries on the hijack, Tran, you asked a great question. That is what I love about this "family."

PISTACHIO ROPE and Silicone based surfactants


The Type of rope used has a lot to do with the success of Wick Booms. That and the use of Silicone based surfactants can make a big difference in response. The Pistachio rope will stay wet and have little or no leakage. There really is no need for a Ball valve on the reservoir when using Pistachio rope. However the wick boom should be totally cleaned with pure water after each use if the rope wick is to work the next time. My business is pesticide application of all kinds. I use the larger Wick Booms in agriculture settings. I find one part Glyphosate mixed with 2 parts water works best on land weeds. I would start with a one to one when dealing with Aquatics.

Below is a list of Suppliers or manufacture of Wick Booms or Part and accessories. I don't have web links but google "ROPE WICK BOOMS" or the following companies I list for more information. I have several PDF files saved on my computer that are no longer on the net. If I knew how to post them I would.

Wicks or rope

Gulf Rope and Cordage 205 438 3159

Complete wick boom or parts

Rodgers Sales Co. 601 627 7162

Sherman Shaw 318 325 4361


I am Pesticide Guy not an pond person. I am here to learn but I will try and help when I can.

Thanks #1Ric - diversity is what makes our Forum very useful. Thanks for the good input.