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Joined: Jul 2011
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OP
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 475 |
Bill,
It seems you have a pretty good handle on Eelgrass. It's my understanding that eelgrass is considered a "warm season" plant.I live in USDA zone 5B. How late in the year can I plant it and expect rooting to take place in 1-3' of water? If it is recommended to plant late in the year, can I expect any growth? I know it all depends on water temp, and what mother nature deals us, but would love to have your input. I'm looking at a site in Wisconsin that offers "Vallisnerias Americanas" Would a different variety be better to consider?
Thank You in advance.
Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,148 Likes: 489
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,148 Likes: 489 |
Late August planting will not be very good in my opinion for establishing good root growth for the plant to overwinter well. June or all of July to early August would be a much better times for transplanting in zone 5. I have had good success planting as late as second week of August in zone 5. I would not start with the standard midwestern native form of Vallisneria americana. The standard form grows to 3-8ft tall - most often 3-4 ft.
I would prefer to first try spiral or corkscrew eel grass. This variety or subspecies (8"-14" tall) does not grow as tall as mature plants as does standard eel grass. I would split the planting between some directly in the pond bottom and some in a submerged pan or small tub in 2-3 ft deep water. Allow the tub growth to become well colonized (4mo-24mo) then transplant them into the pond bottom.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 475 |
Bill, you recommended in an earlier post concerning an eutrophic pond, and planting veg. to compete with coontail, American pondweed.(i.e. nutrient uptake) Any other suggestions,on aqua veg. that would acclimate with eelgrass.Looks like to me that eelgrass is the cats meow for water veg.This is all new to me.In high school I had a horticulture class, but we never covered any for aqua, or at least very few.
I have been taking a bit closer look at my veg. cover, and the coontail puts my percentage way up there.Almost scary.I am currently nuking it, but being late in the year, dont know what I will actually accomplish. I assume that going into winter die down, with a large amount already dead, should be beneficial. I am looking to fill the void. I can plow my yard under to get rid of dandelions, but will be greeted with thistle, mollus,lambsquarters, and crabgrass, without attempting to establish what I want.
My pond is currently coming back with small bulrush, and sedge( been taking out alot of turtles). Arrowhead is trying to come back, but looks like the muskrats are trying to put on a winter coat.I have smaller siltation ponds that have lots of arrowhead for transplanting( tried it and works really well). I plan to leave the bulrush, sedge alone,Try to get arrowhead established, and make some plantings of pickerelweed.Probably some hardy lilies.And taking out a few more muskrats. Kill one and 2 more come in it seems.I think I still have a beaver lurking in the shadows. That covers the shallows and around the bank.Or am I overdoing it?
I have approximately a 1 acre section that I call " the shallows" It ranges from 15% 2' of water,50% 4' water, and the rest 4-6', but pond is still filling from recent renovation, but only about 8-10" to go to full.It contains alot of pondweed,and coontail. A small amount of FA, but that's easy to control right now, at least when it floats and clings to the pondweed.
I wondered about corkscrew, but wasnt sure if I was too far North.
I suppose you could say when I ask for other suggestions, I'm trying to enlighten myself and broaden my horizons. I used to think that bullheads and GSF were the way to go! Ignorance is bliss!
Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat and drink beer.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,148 Likes: 489
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,148 Likes: 489 |
Killing coontail mid to late in the growing season allows it to form spiney seeds and bunchy winter buds which are responsible for a lot of next year's coontail population. Coontail has a high tolerence for conditions such as fluctuationg water levels and turbidity that inhibit many other submerged plants. Plants are good habitat but usually creates dense mats that are very problematic interfering with fishing, boating, and swimming. Another beneficial plant to consider is dwarf sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata) a submerged form of arrowhead. Consider longleaf pondweed (American pondweed) it can become dense without competition but is not too hard to control. Eel grass is pretty strong competition to longleaf pondweed.
From your description it sounds like you have a significiant amount of shallow water which tends to favor weed growth.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Lunker
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Lunker
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Which suppliers have corkscrew eelgrass?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,148 Likes: 489
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 15,148 Likes: 489 |
Most suppliers for corkscrew eelgrass are in the aquarium industry. You may find a few in the lily pond or ornamental pond market. Very few if any wildlife nurseries carry cork screw or spiral eel grass.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 10/23/12 08:41 AM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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