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I wanted to give an update since we added the alum and lime to our pond. The water has cleared even more since it's bloom. It went from crystal clear aqua blue, to dark green. Now the pond is still green, but clear enough that I see all the fish eagerly swim up when I approach the pond, ready to be fed.

Even though I'm happy with the results, I still encourage everyone to apply the chemicals carefully, monitoring the ph the whole way if you want to avoid a fish kill.





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Last edited by Chandler1; 05/26/10 09:05 PM.
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Couple year classes of CC, BG and Koi. Looks like it's time for a catfish fry! The water is looking really good.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).
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How much of this should be added to a 1/4 acre pond?

At what temperatures should this be performed?

We have two ponds that have been cloudy for years, and we took a sample out to be tested and you could see all sorts of particles in the water suspended.

Anyway any thoughts on if I still have time to try this out this year.

Does it make a difference if Cattle get in these ponds?

Thanks

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If you let the water sit in the jar, will the particles settle out (drop to the bottom) in a couple of days, or will they still stay suspended?


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I think they stay suspended, but I will set the bottle back up and see.

Are they treated differently?

If so what steps do I need to take for either one?

Thanks

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Yes, they are treated differently. One usually means mechanical control, the other one chemical control.


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What type of chemical control do you use?


If it is mechanical what would I need to do?

I will check the bottle again tomorrow after it sits.

Thanks

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Let me know if the particles stay suspended or settle out and I'll let you know what direction you should go.


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it appears that the majority fell to the bottom, but still looks like a little is suspended.

Please let me know what I need to do.

Thanks

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Well, if the majority settled out on it's own, a majority of it is caused by something stirring up the pond. If you don't have a lot of bullheads, catfish or carp in the pond, I'd say keep the cattle out via fence (mechanical means). If the majority of it didn't settle out on it's own, then I'd recommend going the chemical route (alum).

I have probably between 50 and 75 CC per acre, and they are all 16" or bigger and I don't have a turbudity problem. Visibility is more than 30". So, unless you have more bottom orientated fish than that, I'd say the majority of your problem is the cattle.


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Ok, I'm VERY new here!! My pond filled up last year and the clarity has been lacking (clay bottomed @ 25' max depth). Is there a time frame necessary to wait before one applies alum?? I have "runoff" from heavy rains which run through the pond, would this constitute periodic reapplication?? Runoff is buffered by 100 yds of prairie grass (waist high). Sorry for being so stoopid but you folks have the knowledge and experience and I wish to borrow some! If there is anything you need to know about laser engraving----I'll step up to the plate in return!!!

Bruce

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There should not be any bullheads in the pond, that is not to say they did not make their way in there somehow. A few CC should exist but I doubt they spawns as there should not be any structure for them to do so. There may have even been a Blue or Flathead introduced about 15 years ago, but not sure if they made it or were caught out.

As far as keeping the cows out that really is not an option at this time, what could I do or use if the cows stay in the pond?



What could happen if I use the Alum and that is not what I needed to do?

How much should I use for this pond?

Where can I purchase Alum?

Can you use Gypsum as well?

I have also heard that you can put sheetrock in your pond, is this true and what exactly does it do?

Thanks

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Originally Posted By: MRHELLO
There should not be any bullheads in the pond, that is not to say they did not make their way in there somehow. A few CC should exist but I doubt they spawns as there should not be any structure for them to do so. There may have even been a Blue or Flathead introduced about 15 years ago, but not sure if they made it or were caught out.

As far as keeping the cows out that really is not an option at this time, what could I do or use if the cows stay in the pond?



What could happen if I use the Alum and that is not what I needed to do?

How much should I use for this pond?

Where can I purchase Alum?

Can you use Gypsum as well?

I have also heard that you can put sheetrock in your pond, is this true and what exactly does it do?

Thanks


MRHELLO:

I suggest you go to page one of this thread and slowly read thru all 8 pages, clicking on the links, reading those as well, and having a notebook handy to take notes. Most, if not all of your questions will be answered if you do that. I just read thru the thread and found all the answers to your questions with the exception of the ones about sheetrock (drywall). If you read the links in the post that Paul put up, your questions on drywall will be answered as well.

If you cannot keep the cattle out of the water (even fencing it so they can drink but not walk in the water would help greatly), then you will most likely have to live with the turbid water.


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Ok since the water will more than likely stay turbid, would you recomend a certain combination of fish or does that type of water even matter?

My main reason for trying to clear it up was to see if I noticed any fish in there before adding more since we can not get anything to bite.

If that option is gone then I may just take a shot and add what would live best in turbid water.

Also have you heard of anyone putting Fresh Water Drum in their ponds, if so at what rate should the be stocked?

What would be the pros and cons of adding them to the mix?

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MrHello,

I've never heard of people putting sheetrock in their ponds but sheetrock/plaster has a lot of gypsum in it which I'm guessing is where that idea came from. There's a place in So. California desert called Plaster City because it is a hub for the gypsum mines in the area. I've heard that the gypsum mined here is primarily used for plaster and sheetrock.

To all,

I have a question regarding the use of gypsum and alum: Are these treatments long term solutions or do they need to keep being applied? My specific concern is in irrigation reservoirs where the water retention time can be much shorter than most backyard ponds. It could get expensive to have to keep applying every time there is a water change. Also, would there be any reason to be concerned about Alum effect on plant physiology? I assume it would precipitate out with the clay and not get sucked in the intake. Can anyone comment on this?


Richard Dennis
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Gypsum/sheetrock and Dolomitic limestone would be more "permanent" than Alum.

Gypsum and Lime would allow constant leaching of what is needed for clearer water (positively charged Ions). Alum will stay in suspension, except for what attaches to it and settles out, and flow out with rain or during irrigation.

Alum is a GCS chemical...Generally Considered Safe....and should have no ill effects on plants.

There are some research articles that claim links between Alzheimers and Aluminum, but none I am aware offer any proof to the claims and are all ignored by the FDA.....No doubt it causes cancer in California though, but I think just living in Ca. may cause it. smile

Last edited by Rainman; 07/04/10 03:33 PM.


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I have a small 1/4 acre pond in my yard. Built April of 09. Pond has been cloudy since its conception.I pumped 480 pounds of gypsum in slurry into it a few weeks ago. It helped some.now my visibility is maybe 12 inches. I even put 2 bales of pure alfalfa hay busted up into flakes trying to get some algae.
I tried the quart jar of pond water and the vinegar, that cleaned it up quite nicely.Should I just dump 25 gallons of white vinegar into the pond? It would be cheaper than alum or gypsum.
Do you guys think my next step should be alum? Or more gypsum?Or try the vinegar?

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Be careful with the vinegar.. It may be only 3-6% acidity, but can drop your PH quickly shocking the fish to death.

If you have added Gypsum, you may want to add a ton or two of agricultural lime as well. A sprader truck can sling it straight in to the pond for a very reasonable price...plus you can't put in too much as the PH will slowly max out at 8.2, a very safe range.

The clearing is achieved from adding positively charged ions.



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Thanks for the info Rainman

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WOW.. What a thread. My eyes and brain are killing me now. smile Good info though for sure. Now for my darn questions.

Real small muddy pond (turns this way after spring every year from runoff on hill) I am in the process of diverting the makeup to be JUST the spring on the hillside and the ditch will be bypassing the pond soon.

Anyway I read this thread (probably missed some things) and bought some Aluminum Sulfate and some lime (gray powder) (and granular lime white)I think. Anyway I'm testing this in a 5 gal bucket and so far neither lime will stablize the ph drop after adding 3 oz aluminum sulfate and 3 oz of lime. The water turns gray with the gray lime and the granular doesn't hardly dissolve.

My question is what is the exact kind of lime I need to keep my ph in check? I hope to make this pond nice soon. Thanks in advance.

Darin

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DarinRay,

Glad you learned a lot from the thread...it is getting better all the time.

As to your lime, it is critical you use HYDRATED lime, not simply Dolomitic Limestone. These limes are NOT the same.

Use half as much hydrated lime as you do alum...ie 100# alum and 50# hydrated lime.



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Should this thread be archived?



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Thanks Rainman... I am just glad that I tried it in a 5 gal pail than just mixed and threw in the pond.:) I will contact someone tomorrow to specifically ask for hydrated lime.

As soon as I figure the right recipe of aluminum sulfate and lime I will also show before and after pics.

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We'll look forward to that....Click my link and call if you have questions.



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Originally Posted By: Rainman
As far as SAFETY concentrations, a QUART of dill pickles has an average of 1/6th teaspoon of alum in it, or 1.1 grams per gallon, or .002425 pounds per gallon, which equates to a VERY safe application rate of over 792 pounds of alum per acrefoot of water.


Bumping this thread. I did the jar test with water from my newly dug pond, the turbidity did not settle out after 4-5 days so as a test, I added a teaspoon of dill pickle juice to the jar and the clay settled out very quickly. grin

Now I just need to figure out my application rate once I get some alum, then I can stock fish. Should I worry about PH since there are no fish in the pond yet? The pond is very turbid (chocolate milk) from several gully washers that we have had since it was built in April, too turbid to get a bloom started.



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