Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Creating habitat Advice for Tiny Pond Habitat

Hello PondBossers, some fabulous artwork for you:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/__hluj...m%20profile.jpg

Building a tiny 1/4 acre pond and wanted to determine a good strategy for structure in this small space for Bass and Blue Gill. In reading the posts on this subject, I'm a bit overwhelmed with the great ideas out there, and don't want to overcrowd this little pond. I have access to lots of small to med-large rock from the excavation, mountain juniper limbs/logs, as well as other things. I tend to go overboard on such things, and would really appreciate your advice on making the best of this teeny, weenie pond.

Also, since this is smaller than typical for Bass, we'll need to increase the turnover to more than once a day from what I see on this forum... any comments as to how many per day for this ~100,000 gal pond? Note that we're hoping for a constant level pond w/siphon spillway & a feed from the well @ ~12gpm. Also plan to pump from the pond up the hillside a bit to feed a stream/waterfall which will flow back into pond and hopefully turn and aerate (separate inlet from the draw that supplies pond). Thoughts?

KDO...a pretty good rule of thumb is having 20% of the pond naturally vegetated and an additional 20% of stucture placed in ways that provide habitat and pathways to travel, while also giving ambush/ fishing channels.

One of our members, AaronM, created a smaller pond that supports well over 2000 pounds of fish in about .1 acres in Pheonix, Az of all places. He created a natural "Bog" system to filter the water and remove nutrients, ammonia, etc. Your planned stream may be ideal for this and also create a truly impressive aesthetic value to the place.

Stream will not only provide additional aeration, but will also provide considerable bio-conversion depending on length and width. including a waterfall means more aeration.

Good stuff Rainman. By 20% are you referring to watercovered bottom area, or including the banks/dam as well for vegetation? You've described the challenge quite well, and I'll see if I can track down AaronM as sustaining 2000 lbs of fish in so little water is quite amazing.

Thanks Instar! Sounds like bio-conversion is a good thing. Is this the process of making more O2 available? How might I maximize this in the stream/waterfall design?

Bio-conversion is a naturally occurring bacterial process where Ammonia is converted into Nitrite, which in turn is converted into Nitrate which serves as nourishment for plants. It does not add Oxygen. In fact, Oxygen is required and used in the process. A stream will add more oxygen than its bio-conversion will use, so you WILL create an Oxygen excess.

A "bog" filter (though not truly a bog or a filter, more of a wetlands or marsh) is also very effective in maintaining acceptable water quality.

An aerator should be included as an integral part in your plans.

Yes, the 20% of vegetation should be in submerged and emergent plant life inside the pool area.

Just to clarify things for myself, I think Rex is talking about 20% that is in the pond itself. Nothing that is growing above the full pool water level (water line) on the bank/shore is included, right Rex?

Did...right above your post essup.

If we go with the output of a bog pumped up to a steam/waterfall which flows back into the pond, will we need the aerator?

Aeration in most any size pond is an asset and usually indicated.

I am curious about how you are planning on capturing the outflow from the "Bog". Is this to be a stand-alone system isolated from the pond proper?

Good question. The pond overflow leads into a stream with the bog at the end. The waterfall supply pump will be submerged at the bottom of the far end of the bog and will be routed up 6.5 ft. to the top of the falls, the output of which flows into the pond. Was thinking that with the falls, stream, bog, and a reasonably high flow of 6500 gph, that we may not need aeration???

Some pictures would really help!

A bog is usually considered part of the inflow. A bog/wetlands/marsh is most efficient with a low flow rate which allows for a longer RT (Resident Time) of the water. 6500 gph is to much flow for a small bog/wetlands/marsh. I would recommend plumbing the bog/wetlands/marsh separate from any waterfall feature. You will still need an aerator

I think in your usage, you will need aeration for circulation and elimination of stagnant areas in the main pond to ensure the most filtration possible. I doubt you will ever need it for oxgenating the pond. It may be overkill, but if it isn't a budget killer, it could eliminate some potential issues.

We have some small artificial fish habitat models specifically for smaller garden and koi pond applications. Fine,dense cover for fry and tiny guys to hide and thrive in. www.fishiding.com fishiding/garden pond products Take a look and see if these may help.

Rainman, do I take your commentto mean that the 6500 gph flow alone will not be enough to take care of these 2 issues?

Instar, good input, as I was not aware that flow could be too high in a bog.



Does this imply that we'll need 2 pumps, one to pump from the bog to the pond and one to pump from the pond to the waterfall? Or could it be just one pump with 2 inputs and some sort of trimmer valve to pull some from each w/output routed to the waterfall...? Not sure how the hydraulics would work on this...

KDO-

It is difficult to give any accurate advice with what little info that you have provided.
You indicate that this is a 1/4 acre pond, but you have not indicated the depth or shape of the pond. Topography also plays an important role. What are the relative elevations of the pond, marsh, and proposed waterfall?
Based on the site configuration as I understand it, you ideally should use 2 pumps.
Post some pictures of the site. They will be a great deal of help in providing advice.