I installed a new K&N CAI on my GMC, did a test run, and cleaned her up inside and out. Then I removed the winter tires and chains from the Mule. Spring is imminent and we are ready in these parts!!
Yep, I see it now. FYI, VW uses a wire type MAF and we've found that the oiled air filters, over time, screw up the MAF. An oil film is deposited on the wire, and that causes problems with the MAF. Most guys have ditched the oiled air filters after they have the MAF fail. We're talking 20+K miles here....
Yep, I see it now. FYI, VW uses a wire type MAF and we've found that the oiled air filters, over time, screw up the MAF. An oil film is deposited on the wire, and that causes problems with the MAF. Most guys have ditched the oiled air filters after they have the MAF fail. We're talking 20+K miles here....
I researched that issue before buying the kit. I also asked my GMC Service manager about it an he said that it isn't a problem. Then I read up on the subject here: K&N.
My VW uses a "hot wire" system. That's about all that I know. It's been discussed on the VW TDI forum a bunch and the general concensus over the years is that it's better to stick with the factory non-oiled air filter system for the TDI's.
Dad has used one on his diesel Suburban since he got it in '97, and on his previous Suburban, and I've used them on other vehicles without any problems. But, none of mine had MAF's. I'd have put one on my car if it wasn't for the guys on the forum saying not to because of a high frequency of MAF failures after installing the oiled filters. Sort of like on here, when a majority of people say "don't do that", I listen.
I put the K&N on my 2010 GMC 1/2 ton about 10,000 miles back. No problems so far. Didn't see alot of MPG improvement but the HP difference was noticable. I ran one on my 06 Chevy also. I think it's a pretty good product. I'm ready for spring here too!
It's true hard work never killed anybody, but I figure, why take the chance? Ronald Reagan _______________ The good Brian
You have the big 6.8L in yours right? Mine won't smoke the tires due to the traction control always being on unless you hit the button to turn it off which is what I do everytime I get in it!
It's true hard work never killed anybody, but I figure, why take the chance? Ronald Reagan _______________ The good Brian
Having sold auto parts for 26 years along with the rebuild kits for many of the engines I sold K&N filters to be installed on. Ten years of that 26, there was a machine shop in the basement that specialized in race and performance enine builds...they loved K&N for keeping them working.
That extra air flow comes at a much higher price than a Mass Air Flow sensor..in the biz, K&N air filters are know as sales boosting engine eaters. Sand and dust tends to flow right through after about 5000 miles regardless of cleaning and oiling due to the cotton losing "fluff" and the air channeling. As much as I dislike Fram Filter quality, the AIR HOG filter is pretty good. The K&N Cold Air Injection tubes are great, but I'd switch to an Air Hof filter after the first cleaning...Air Hogs are are a bit more pricy than a standard air filter, but have the same air flow as K&N and need to be replaced about every 20K in clean areas. The lower wear on the rings and cylander walls makes it worth it.
Don't get me wrong, K&N WILL increase HP and fuel mileage (if you can keep a light foot). Like ponds, it depends on what price you're willing to pay. Under "normal" conditions, meaning paved roads and keeping your foot on the proper side of the firewall, they work well...They will cut the life of a true performance engine, used as such, or dusty road use engines by half.
Having sold auto parts for 26 years along with the rebuild kits for many of the engines I sold K&N filters to be installed on. Ten years of that 26, there was a machine shop in the basement that specialized in race and performance enine builds...they loved K&N for keeping them working.
That extra air flow comes at a much higher price than a Mass Air Flow sensor..in the biz, K&N air filters are know as sales boosting engine eaters. Sand and dust tends to flow right through after about 5000 miles regardless of cleaning and oiling due to the cotton losing "fluff" and the air channeling. As much as I dislike Fram Filter quality, the AIR HOG filter is pretty good. The K&N Cold Air Injection tubes are great, but I'd switch to an Air Hof filter after the first cleaning...Air Hogs are are a bit more pricy than a standard air filter, but have the same air flow as K&N and need to be replaced about every 20K in clean areas. The lower wear on the rings and cylander walls makes it worth it.
Don't get me wrong, K&N WILL increase HP and fuel mileage (if you can keep a light foot). Like ponds, it depends on what price you're willing to pay. Under "normal" conditions, meaning paved roads and keeping your foot on the proper side of the firewall, they work well...They will cut the life of a true performance engine, used as such, or dusty road use engines by half.
There is a lot of conjecture and anecdotal evidence out there on one air filter versus another. My research showed that there has not been a systematic scientific evaluation of the various air filter types and brands.
Does anyone have an airflow bench and microscopic particle analyzer that I can borrow so I can do the scientific evaluation?
I can't speak for their use on automotive applications, but I gave up using them on the kart I used to race. I raced strictly on dirt, and I could always find particulates in the carb throat after a race when I used a K&N.
By the way... you guys ever hear the sound a Briggs makes at 8000 rpm on alcohol?? Sweeeet.
"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"
If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1) And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1) Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT? PB answer: It depends.
Dwight, there was one guy on the 6.2 diesel forum that used an engine oil analysis service every month on his motor. When he switched to a oiled filter to let more air into his motor he saw an increase in silica levels in his oil analysis.
Now, will that cause more wear? I dunno. Dad has almost 250K on his 6.5 TD in the Suburban and he's run either a K&N or Amsoil oiled air filter since he bought the truck new. The motor still seems like it's running fine - no increased oil consumption, etc.
Dwight, you will enjoy the improvements with your filter...The sales pitch and studies are not false that K&N makes, nor are any other company press releases on the "name brand" perfofmance filters. The reports ARE however intended to create sales and prove claims and woefully incomplete on the particulate sizes they can filter after evn little use on any application.
For pure filtering capability of the finest particulates with the least amount of restriction found, WIX filters are by far the best choice out there...a fairly low restriction and an average 5 micron filtering capability over the life of the filter.
IIRC, K$N's best micron rating is 15 microns on a brand new filter...after even a few hundred miles, that filtering ability will be close to 50 microns....thats fine sand sized particles that flow straight into the engine. Not anecdotal evidence, it's fact. In any situation, using K&N or any low restriction air filter/oil filter WILL reduce engine life.
WOW so thats why my 1993 z71 with only 299,467K miles showing is starting to show signs of weakness. Must be that darn K&N I've been running with sense the first oil change. All my rides have seen plenty of dirt roads. MY 2002 z71 has 150K on it running K&N I'm not to worried about it. The rings are so loose in these new LS engines that the dust just falls into the crank. The pistons are bound to cause engine failure from slapping the cylinder walls well before the dust gets it.
Last edited by rockytopper; 03/17/1112:00 PM.
The road goes on forever and the party nevers end...............................................
I went on a 100 miler round trip today. It was on two lane roads and I drove 60 mph except while driving through towns. With 100% E85 in the tank and my E85 Predator Tune installed I got 21.3 mpg. In my mind that is pretty good mileage for a 4WD truck with the 6.2 engine running on E85.
I went on a 100 miler round trip today. It was on two lane roads and I drove 60 mph except while driving through towns. With 100% E85 in the tank and my E85 Predator Tune installed I got 21.3 mpg. In my mind that is pretty good mileage for a 4WD truck with the 6.2 engine running on E85.
Heck yes it is! What was the mpg before the upgrades?