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Thanks B'ski. What is the plan from here on?
















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This weekend, a couple of hours are dedicated to calculating the required siding and trim. I have the price quotes, so I will take the 2 lowest and try to play one against the other for a final squeeze. Then we buy it. It will take about 2 weeks to get it ready for our pick up. By that time, we hope for driveway access (read that as melted snow) and the siding show begins.

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Do you have a good winter pic ?
















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Brettski:

With the warmer temps and the sun out for a couple of days, most of the snow should be gone. Unless the weather has been vastly different there, you should have an easy time getting to the place.

A 4-wheel drive Willy's jeep with a small plow would really come in handy!!


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 Originally Posted By: ewest
Do you have a good winter pic ?

From this season, nah...nuthin much to speak of. I am kinda holding back on a good "across the length of the pond, looking up to the building site" shot until we can manage getting the gar/apt exterior completed. Right now, I gotta honestly say that it could easily be May or June before I get to that point. I need to get back into a rhythm for 2010.

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Go Bret Go

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And take time to enjoy the journey as you go !!!!
















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Wow Brettski, that place looks great. My wife and I built our current house, took us two years. So I know what you are going through trying to get it done while working in the winter. It can be slow and frustrating but it looks like you are doing a great job. One thing that the building inspector told me when he saw all the TLC we put into it, when you get done you will have a house that you could never afford to hire built. From what I see and what I've seen in all your past projects your building will fall into that category. Those little things done right make a big difference. Also, remember to keep safety #1 especially if you ever work alone. All the money saved and satisfaction gained is not worth getting hurt or worse. Take care.


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 Originally Posted By: bz
Wow Brettski, that place looks great. My wife and I built our current house, took us two years. So I know what you are going through trying to get it done while working in the winter. It can be slow and frustrating but it looks like you are doing a great job. One thing that the building inspector told me when he saw all the TLC we put into it, when you get done you will have a house that you could never afford to hire built. From what I see and what I've seen in all your past projects your building will fall into that category. Those little things done right make a big difference.

Thanks for the prop's, bz. It means alot to me...especially comin' from you.
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Also, remember to keep safety #1 especially if you ever work alone. All the money saved and satisfaction gained is not worth getting hurt or worse. Take care.

10-4 and so noted.

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Man, I lost track of the time off from the project. I think it's been 4 weeks...feels like months. I called my excavator pal a couple days ago for a report on how deep the snow might be out in the woods. He asked me if I wanted him to go over there. "No, you don't have to do that...that's crazy...I just want to know if it's over 3 or 4" cuz that will stop our 2 x 4 truck from gettin' in". He estimated that it was probably closer to 6" and noted that he was working on a job right now that was right around the corner. He never called me back. Dang it! Oh well, I packed it in and made the trip early Sat. morning. I expected that I was gonna be making the 1/3 mile trip in and out on foot 4 or 5 times to get my stuff in. When I got there, he was right...the snow was too deep...except for my driveway. That part was MUCH better, particularly since he plowed it with the bucket on the backhoe! Yeah baby! (wait until I get THAT bill).
I drove right in and unpacked. Good start for the weekend.
-
Finishing the ridge on the metal roof continues to be my number one project, but I now know it has to be ideal conditions before I go back up there. This trip wasn't the deal; maybe next weekend. Instead, I switched to the interior electrical.
-
I wanted to get power and some basic lighting upstairs. Before I can do so, though, I had to prepare the power source at the breaker box.
I want/need an auxilliary source of power. Over the course of many conversations with the field tech from the power company (as we prepared for the utility power feed), he reminded me that when power goes down way out in the country, it can be slow coming back up. As much as I would love to install a nice 12-15,000 kw propane generator with the automatic switch, the cost is way beyond our budget. Since we already have a decent 5.5 kw gasoline generator (the unit we have been using for all our electrical power needs up until the utility power was installed a couple months ago), I wanted to find a reasonable way to rig it for emergency use on our garage/apartment without running miles of orange extension cords when power goes down. The answer was this weekend's project.
I set a switching sub-panel directly adjacent to the main breaker box and ran an 1-1/4" rigid nipple between the two boxes.

Before I purchased the sub-panel, I called my inspector to make sure it was OK. I got the green light and picked it up on Ebay. You electrician guysez are already familiar with it. It was kinda new to me. At first, it seemed a bit complicated. After I got into it, it's a no-brainer project.
Starting at the main breaker box, a 60 amp 220v double breaker sends a power feed into the sub-panel and ties directly into another 60 amp 220v double breaker on the sub-panel main buss bars. The next step is to select which circuits in the building that I want to run during an emergency power outage. These selected circuits will tap their power feed from this sub-panel.
Here is where the generator comes into play.
Right next to the 60 amp 220v double breaker inside the sub-panel (the dbl breaker receving it's power feed from the main breaker box) is another 220v double breaker. This second unit is only 30 amps because it will be the point where I feed my 5.5 kw gas generator into the sub-panel. These 2 double breakers are next-door neighbors on the sub-panel buss bar for a good reason. There is a pivoting metal mechanical bar between the two power feed breakers that will only allow one of them to be turned on at once. Pretty cool, pretty simple.

In the above pic, only the utility power feed is connected. I have not completed the power feed for the generator breaker. It will consist of another rigid pipe coming off of the sub-panel and running out to one last smaller outlet box. The outlet box will have an 220v outlet that will marry up to the 20 foot pigtail cord that will run to the generator output. If a power outage does occur, I push the pigtail plug into the generator, push the other end of the 20' pigtail into the outlet next to the sub-panel, wheel the generator just outside the garage door and close the door down over the pigtail. Fire up the gennie and go back inside and flip the breaker with the protective rocker arm.
Hopefully I remembered to keep fresh gasoline in stock (along with Seafoam...right Rainman?).
-
After this little project, I tapped my first 2 trunk line circuits and ran them over to the living room and kitchen area of the upstairs. I got in one circuit of 5 outlet boxes and some lighting for the upstairs. Finally...no more long extension cords.

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Good idea and nice work Brettski.!! (as usual)


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So now you can turn on the upstairs lights at night and take a pic of "lights on" so we can see.
















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Nice work Brettski! I would think that a 5.5KW generator would run quite a bit of stuff.


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thanks for sharing. Never seen that device before, but, of course I'm not an electrician.
Myself, being overly safety concious, not necessarily for myself, but more for protection of equipment; I would not leave the 'anti-bucking protection' to that device, but would not fire up and plug in the gen. until I did the manual switching.
It is my nature to be skeptical, cynical, etc. I would not depend upon the device to be break before make. I'm sure it has all kinds of testing, safety certificates, etc..but it's just too easy not to take a chance.
Re: working on the roof. Go get a safety belt, sling a rope over the roof ridge and tie it off down below on the other side. No questions, just do it! \:\)

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 Originally Posted By: burgermeister
Myself, being overly safety concious, not necessarily for myself, but more for protection of equipment; I would not leave the 'anti-bucking protection' to that device, but would not fire up and plug in the gen. until I did the manual switching.

When I first received the unit, I kinda assumed that the rocker would toggle the other breaker when the first breaker is flipped. It doesn't; the geometry and force required just doesn't happen that way. Instead, it is nothing more than a safety lock that won't allow both breakers to be on at the same time. Each breaker does have to be manually "flipped".
I do like and agree with the idea of flipping the breakers first, then plugging into the warmed and operating gennie set. I would back off most all the sub-panel circuits so the sudden load doesn't shoot the hissing pin at the Canooten valve on the mumbling shaft.

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 Originally Posted By: Brettski
I would back off most all the sub-panel circuits so the sudden load doesn't shoot the hissing pin at the Canooten valve on the mumbling shaft.

I see your technobabble generator is already on line.


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Rubber boots and gloves first ?
















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Guess where I was this weekend...


-
I am pleased to report that the long awaited break in the winter weather yielded a couple of very nice days. I took off work on Friday to take advantage of the blue skies and 40 something degree temps and got the ridge cap completed. I also got the opportunity to screw down the ends of every panel (2 screws zipped into the ends of each 16" wide panel, just above the drip edge). The only thing left is 4 short pieces of rake trim, one at each end of the shed dormers. Although I wanted to get into it, they are another somewhat complicated fabrication to get them installed correctly and water-tight. I want to call my contact at the factory and quiz him on correct fabrication/installation. In the meantime, tho, we are buttoned up. It was creepy getting back up there...real creepy. I was a bundle of nerves, but took my time and measured every step. Unfortunately, I will have to go back up at least one more time to install the boot for the plumbing vent stack.


-
-
Sunday turned into a rain day. It gave me a reason to go upstairs and work a bit more on the rough wiring. I don't even have the bank of pond-view windows in yet and I'm outta control on creating lighting options for that area.

-
-
I HAVE A QUESTION FOR Y'ALL.
I need ideas for drip control. The roof design puts water dripping and hitting grade 8" away from the building. I really want to minimize or eliminate the splash. Over time, it will beat up the bottom row(s) of the lap siding. I don't want bushes. I really think the simple fix is gutters. I am familiar with the run-of-the-mill house gutters at the big box home centers, but the mounting brackets won't work with the gambrel design and pitch. Here is a view from underneath the eaves, taken at the corner of the structure.

The distance from the wall to the outer point of the rafter tail is 8". A white vinyl vented soffit will cover the opening. How would one attach a gutter to this design?

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as i read down through this b'ski, i had a gutter opinion until that last shot.

our gutters were installed first, and the roof panels were cut so they didnt have a drinking problem hangover. i chose seamless gutters w/ a gutter guard that has performed really well and requires almost NO maintenance.....one of my goals. but i'm not sure how this would work in your application.




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"It was creepy getting back up there...real creepy. I was a bundle of nerves, but took my time and measured every step. Unfortunately, I will have to go back up at least one more time to install the boot for the plumbing vent stack."

heed previous post.........Re: working on the roof. Go get a safety belt, sling a rope over the roof ridge and tie it off down below on the other side. No questions, just do it!




Last edited by burgermeister; 03/08/10 01:24 PM.

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I agree with Burger !!!

What about pea gravel on the ground under the drip line ? That plus grass should do the job.
















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 Originally Posted By: ewest
What about pea gravel on the ground under the drip line ? That plus grass should do the job.

Assuming LNP is in groundhog country, use fairly large and coarse (like 1" on the minor axis and 2"-3" on the major axis) limestone all the way around the building, not just on the drip sides. Whistlepigs don't like to dig through this, and it will keep them from burrowing under the slab.


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Houston....we have a problem!
For all the planning and preparation that one ham-and-egger DIY jockey can do, I just (literally) bumped into a problem.
I knew right from the beginning when I was designing the structure that the stairway to the second floor was gonna be a booger. There are a plethora of details that are all linked and affect each other. I wrestled with the calculations and knew that some of the final stairway design was gonna be a bit less than ideal, but it would be functional and should do what it's supposed to do.
I'll try to paint the picture...
Let's start with the upstairs floorplan. The red outlined area in the upper right hand side is the stairwell and the subject zone of the design issues.

It looks like this from the upstairs, looking down.

another perspective at the top of the staircase


-
This was the first questionable decision I made when I laid this staircase out. I am putting a door right at the top of the staircase. There will be no landing just outside the door. On the way up the stairs, when you get to the top step, the door will be right in front of you, one more step up. When you're going down the stairs, as you pass thru the door, you will be stepping down to the first step downhill. I knew this when I laid it out and knew it was a less than desireable design. Why did I do it? Well, like I said...a host of facets that all intertwine and link together. In the end, in order to get the biggest bang for the buck in upstairs square footage usage, I had to put the door there. I was going to move the door further in and put it at the end of the hallway leaving a nice landing in front of the window, but that would cut off the cross-ventilation that the window will provide. In the end, if the building inspector doesn't like my current plan, this is likely what I will have to do...but I don't wanna. In this area, I am still open to some other outta the box ideas.
Moving on...
The amount of rise and run of the stairs left me no options for the staircase. In order to maintain proper stair height and tread, I had to run the stairs down to a landing, then turn it away. I got the first set of stairs installed, along with the landing.

I should'a moved the service door back by another couple of feet...oh well. This little flaw is insignificant and doesn't bother me. It will work just fine. At least I installed the service door with the proper direction of swing. \:D
-
I was so happy with the way the first set of stairs turned out. Jeesh, what a crazy math equation. Compound stair layout sucks. Anyway, it looked great, so I took my first short walk.

I'm just shy of 6'-3" and that beam is comin' really close to my head. On the way up, I miss it without ducking...barely.

When I'm comin' down, tho, it's a problem (not because I'm walking backward, JHAP).
This is the problem. I never considered it. I thought that the 9 foot tall walls downstairs, coupled with the 6" high concrete curb walls (effectively making the downstairs walls 9'-6" tall) would provide all the clearance I would need for the staircase. Wrongo!
I can't change the riser and tread dimensions enough to make a difference and still maintain code for a proper stair tread. If I drop the landing by one stair, the upper stair run will push out too far onto the landing and leave a small area to turn. It would make the landing too small for code. I don't know that there is anything (short of an elevator) that would solve this one.
I'm gonna call my inspector this coming week to see what he thinks about this situation. If he says "no go", I really have a conundrum. If he says he doesn't really care, I believe that a helmet might be in my future. At 5'-2", Dski couldn't care less.


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On the bright side, you are unlikely to get taller as you age.


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How tall is the inspector. \:D
Sorry I couldn't resist, how about a circular stair case.



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