Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations tilapia for pithophora control

I plan to stock tilapia in march or april to hopefully eradicate pithophora.I increased minimum water depth to 42" and applied cutrine plus last fall.Pond is 8 acres with average depth of 6'. Any advice on stocking tilapia-quantity-species-size-etc.? Pond is located in Chester County S.C. whitch is in the upper area of S.C. Thanks for any help!

Al,

Do you have info that shows they will eat that stuff? I know they will eat certain forms of green string algae (filatmentous algae) but that stuff is really nasty isn't it? Just asking.

Cecil,

Mac Watson formally with SCDNR has had success with tilipia elimination of pithophora along with cutrine,but I have not tried it yet.I am looking for any detailed advice.Thanks,Al Allison

Al that sounds interesting. I'm sorry no one here has any advice. Perhaps you are breaking new ground and no one has tried it yet?

I have no idea what that plant is!

There are VERY few plants, or anything else for that matter, that tilapia can't/won't eat. The very strong stomach acid in tilapia make almost anything "food" for them.

No personal experience which is what you ask about. Here is some info.

http://digital.library.okstate.edu/OAS/oas_htm_files/v64/p14_16.html#introduction

The previously reported preference of blue tilapia for filamentous algae, e.g., Pithophora over macrophytes (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) did not occur in our study (Tables 1 and 2). In addition, field data did not reveal a preference for filamentous algae over macrophytes (7). This difference from previously published observations may have resulted from differences in genera of algae involved in the studies. Feeding preference for Cladophora has not been tested previously.

REFERENCES


7. D. P. SCHWARTZ, The use of Tilapia aurea (Steindachner). (Cichlidae) to control aquatic vegetation in small ponds. M.S. thesis. Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, 1982.

8. E. W. SHELL, Weeds 10:326-327 (1962).

9. J. W. AVAULT, Proc. Ann. Meet. Southern Weed Conf. 18:590-591 (1965).

10. L. G. McBAY, Proc. Ann. Conf. Southeast. Assoc. Game Fish Comm. 15:208-218 (1961).

11. P. C. PIERCE, and H. M. YAWN, Proc. Annu. Meet. Southern Weed Conf. 18:582-583 (1965).

12. J. W. AVAULT, R. O. SMITHERMAN, and E. W. SHELL, in Pillay, T. V. R. (ed), Proceedings of the world symposium on warm-water fish culture, United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization Fisheries Reports 44:VIII/E-3, 1968, pp. 109-122.



http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1715.

new link - http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/other/landscaping/hgic1714.html

TILAPIA

Tilapia are tropical fish that resemble our native sunfish and can control certain aquatic vegetation. Two species of tilapia are recommended for aquatic weed control.

Blue tilapia feed entirely on algae (both planktonic and filamentous) but do not readily consume submerged vascular plants. Redbelly tilapia feed primarily on submerged vascular plants rather than algae, but most pond managers prefer triploid grass carp for control since grass carp offer multiple year control and are easier to manage. Because tilapia are tropical fish, they cannot survive normal winter water temperatures in most of South Carolina. Annual restocking is generally necessary unless a warm water supply (such as thermal spring or power plant cooling reservoir) is available as a refuge where the fish can overwinter. Tilapia are stocked at a rate of 200 to 400 fish per acre in the spring. The higher rate has been demonstrated to achieve faster control in approximately one month. Tilapia do reproduce and their offspring also assist in the control of aquatic plants.

Thanks for the replies.I will stock tilipia when water temp. reaches 60 degrees.Current water temp. is 52 degrees.I will report results in a few months.Thanks,Al Allison.

Al,

For what it's worth I had a Talpia grower tell me to wait until water temps reach 70 degrees consistently. He said anything less and you could get a cold snap that would kill them.

Well it is December 20,2009. After stocking 1200 tilipia in my 8 ac. pond to control pithophora,the results are pretty good.The pithophora is not gone and I had to supplement the treatment with several applications of cutrine plus,but the pithophora is close to being eliminated.The tilipia were stocked in April 2009 and were 3" to 5" long when stocked.The tilipia are now 10" to 12" long and weigh 1 lb.to 1.5 lb. They are beginning to die off as my water temperature is now 47 degrees.I plan to keep my water shaded with "black onyx"and restock next spring. The amount of pithophora in April 2009 was incredible and the amount currently present is minimal.Any further advice will be greatly appreciated.Thanks,Al Allison.

Al, where are you located?

My pond is located in chester county S.C.about 35 mi. south of Charlotte N.C.

Catch and cook the rest of the Tilapia, they really are good, especially doused in melted butter and garlic.

Tilapia are not a trash fish as some would think.

A fresh fillet in the morning with your favorite fixin's, makes a great breakfast.

Try some dill, onions, garlic and cracked pepper, use bacon fat or fry the bacon in advance and wrap the fish morsels in the bacon. Shred a few red potatoes and cook on HIGH in the juices letting it all soak in, once crispy on both sides, a bit of butter then a good half dozen OE, OM or SSU eggs, butter the toast, set out the morning feast, ...

Eat, then go back to bed... You will feel really good when you wake up, even though you missed work

Lunker,do you have any experience in catching tilipia?We have caught some in a cast net and have dipped a few around the pond edge since the water fell below 50 degrees.Any advice on a hook and line method? Thanks,Al Allison

Hook and line in temperatures this cold would be a waste of time...

When water temps are in the 70's and above range(tilapia prefer even higher temps, 80's plus), I have caught blue tilapia using mostly canned peas when fishing in FL. Corn and nightcrawlers are other options I have caught tilapia on. Small hooks and light line seems to work better.

I would like to comment on the study ewest posted on the food study of tilapia. It is pretty much wrong. Blue Tilapia are omnivores and eat nearly anything. In California, a study done on tilapia in tanks showed a dislike for several targeted canal plants. When the fish were placed in the canal, what plants the study showed would not be eaten, were not only eaten, but many were erradicated. I tried to link this study, but my link is dead and I can no longer fing the research document. I believe the study was conducted by UC-Davis in 1974 and the fish released into the Imperial Valley canals.

From what I have seen and have had reported to me from several real world stockings of Blue Tilapia, is that the tilapia will eat the most abundant and least competed for food source first and move down the line of sources as each one is depleted.

Where to start. Which study ? The first study is not wrong as it is reporting facts observed not opinions. Tilapia , like many fish , will eat what is available in abundance (easy to catch)if they can digest it. There are studies where tilapia lowered the bottom elevation of waters by 6 inches by eating the bottom detritus when easy food supplies of there normal forage were low. They will do what they have to for survival if its biologically possible. They will eat whatever they can get to survive.

Al,
any other observed ramifications of the tilapia stocking in your 8 acre pond this year?

There are so many different types of Tilapia that it ends up causing some confusion. When someone asks, "what do tilapia eat", it's not quite as easy of an answer as one would suspect.

For example, Tilapia rendalli (Redbreasted tilapia) are not very well known at all, but are probably the best tilapia selection for plant control in private waters, superior to the more commonly available Niles, Blues and Mozambiques. Young feed on plankton. Adults on macrophytes, algae, insects and crustaceans. Macrophytes, particularly vascular plants and "large" algaes such as chara are the preferred/target food source. In fact, they can rapidly eliminate macrophytes in a small pond in climates where they are able to survive the winter. They are commonly used to keep irrigation canals clear of excess vegetation in suitable climates. In comparison to most other Tilapia, they have extremely high fecundity, producing 5,000-6,000 eggs per spawn. Recruitment is much higher as well because both parents guard the fry until they are a 1/2 inch to an inch in size.

Oreochromis aureus (Blue tilapia) feeds predominantly on phytoplankton. Algaes, macrophytes, detritus and crustaceans are other food sources. Vascular plants are consumed in limited quantities, and not nearly to the extent that Redbreasted Tilapia consume them. In some strains, Blues show a strong preference for suspended and filamentous algae during the first 5 months or of life.

Oreochromis niloticus (Nile tilapia) are predominantly herbivorous. Young fry are omnivorous. Once about 3 months old, Niles aggressively target macrophytes, including vascular plants and chara and filamentous algae as their primary food sources. Phytoplankton starts to become progressively more important as the fish grow to about 9-10 inches however.

Oreochromis andersonii (Three-spot tilapia) is primarily a bottom feeder. Eats algae from bottom mud surfaces as main diet, but also feeds some on plankton, insect larvae, small crustacea and fine particulate matter (primarily diatoms and blue green algae).

Oreochromis macrochir (Greenhead tilapia) feed almost exclusively on microscopic material. Algae (especially diatoms) and detritus are the preferred items. Juveniles consume zooplankton and insect lavae. Greenhead tilapia have confused more than one fish farmer in the past. They can make an earthen pond filled with detritus appear to magically get deeper year after year.

See what I mean? Each of these different tilapias have a different niche. Some of them extremely different!

For example, Tilapia rendalli (Redbreasted tilapia) are not very well known at all, but are probably the best tilapia selection for plant control in private waters, superior to the more commonly available Niles, Blues and Mozambiques. Young feed on plankton. Adults on macrophytes, algae, insects and crustaceans. Macrophytes, particularly vascular plants and "large" algaes such as chara are the preferred/target food source.

Is this species available?

Cecil, I don't think they'd like the water temps in your trout pond!!!

I wasn't referring to the trout pond. I have Chara issues in my biggest warmwater pond too.

They might help with the Sago as well.

Sago and chara are both near the top of the food prferance list for blue tilapia

FishBase has tons of data on tilapia food items and other material. One thing can be said about all them - they will eat whatever type of plant material (plankton , algae, macrophytes, detritus ,vascular plants , insect larvae, small crustaceans , FA , etc ) that is available if the others are in short supply. Preferred food item studies/data have to be reviewed carefully to account for all the potential factors that might influence the conclusions such as time of year , temps , variety and volume of sources , fertility and size of forager.

Eric, Studies making incorrect statements like the one posted are one of the major problems that got me to study blue tilapia so thoroughly. There are so many studies that are incomplete or jst wrong it is amazing.

This is the part of the study stated as fact that was posted that is blatantly wrong ..." Blue tilapia feed entirely on algae (both planktonic and filamentous) but do not readily consume submerged vascular plants."... Blue tilapia do NOT feed entirely upon algaes and they DO readily consume MOST submerged vascular plants. This studies statement is a real head-scratcher wondering where they came up with the statements.

Blue tilapia will eat nearly anything they can digest either intentionally or incidentally while consuming bacterias.