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How about some pics of the trails. Is there power to the dock ? Any lights there ?
















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Mucho power out to the dock. 30 amps of 220. Right now, the only terminal at the dock is an electric outlet. The next toy may be an electric winch for the beater paddle boat (another thread for the future).
Funny you ask about the trails. Dski asked the same thing. I kinda played down the idea of pics of a woodland trail.

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Brettski great work! I have a question? Have you considered a monitored security system? I keep going back and forth on the idea and wondered if that was in your plans?

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Thanks James.
Are you talkin' "video surveillance" or "burglar alarm"?
Either way, we don't have a telephone landline, so I think that precludes either service. Of course, I could create a closed circuit system, but I think the idea would be further off in the future.
In your case, living in a veritable castle, a security system would be a natural step in your real estate development plan.

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There are cell phone systems.

Looks very good as usual - I'd hate to be digging in the dirt now with it as dry as it is.


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Come 'n listen to a story 'bout a man named Jed...


We are running outta room in our garage at home, so the time has come to transfer inventory. Also, with the cold weather comin', I would rather have that big ol' fibreglas tub/shower fixture bouncin' on the trailer in the warmer temps. As it winds up, loading the trailer the night before was the easy part.
We spent all day Saturday wrestling with the trailer stuff and cleaning & straightening the mess at the LNP project. Yeah, wrestling with the trailer stuff...right. Dski pulled off another stellar demonstration of strength and stamina as we moved that stinkin' shower unit up the stairs. Holy cow, what a project. By the time we were both completely exhausted, it was precariously perched on the landing, wedged between the ceiling framing and the stair framing. It really looked like we weren't gonna be able to squeeze it thru. Finally, we both got that last wind and started gruntin' and groanin' and somehow, it popped thru and was now into the final set of stairs heading up to the 2nd floor...and we're both wiped out. OK, time to summon another second wind and up, up, and away.


-
The vanities and oven/microwave seemed like cake, comparitively. We both celebrated that evening by sleeping like 2 middle aged rocks.
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Dski is a cleaner and arranger. She is so predictable. If I ask her to vacuum up a pile of sawdust, an hour later she has completely vacuumed the entire area and put everything away. Of course, I had to stay involved just so I can watch and learn where all my tools are going to reside. Anyway, we rearranged and the downstairs really opened up.
We had a 16" x 28 ft lam beam laying in our pile of lumber stuff. It was a reject from when our 2nd floor framing was delivered (a portion was fairly cupped and I complained). Anyway, it was replaced and we were told to just scrap out the old one. Well, I'm thinkin' this thing would make a great workbench top, so I cut it into 2 pc x 14 ft and cheated by laying it out on some sawhorses underneath the window along with a smaller sawhorse table to see how my future workbench will look in the shop zone. I'm inspired.



There is some super windy weather predicted for next week, so I decided it was time to lay in the carriage bolts that tie the gable end walls on the second floor to the 1st floor walls. Just a little bit of overkill insurance to provide a complete structural bond of all the framing from the bottom of the building to the top.

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What is all that stuff ?
















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Hi,
I am think of building a Garage Apartment. The garage is built to fit 10 cars, 77' x 41', a total of 3157 square feet. The apartment on top of it will be 2720 square feet. What I was wondering was if garage apartments are as safe and stable as regular stick built houses. And if anyone would know what this would cost, I know I can go to my local construction company to find out, but I wanted to know if anyone here could ballpark it for me.

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Wow, that's a tough one to thumbnail-sketch wins.
A stick built home and a stick built gar apartment are virtually the same structure, only varying based on architectural detail. As far as cost, I can only offer that our project (1200 sq ft gar, 1100 sq ft live space) was spec'd by the insurance company as $140 K to replace. Personally, I think that's a bit high and will shop the policy a bit when I have time.
Regarding safety, whenever a garage area is attached to a living space, there are specific precautions during construction that must be implemented to protect from fire hazard (ie; fuel tanks in the vehicles). Fire rated sheet rock and taping must be used inside the garage, fire rated doors must be used between the gar and living space. There are other code issues; do your research.
The potential for hazard is all based on the reliability of containing potential fire and fumes residing within the garage area.


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Originally Posted By: ewest
What is all that stuff ?

of which "stuff" do you speak?

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That whole room full of stuff.
















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It's like an attic...years of junk, half of which I barely remember acquiring....all collected over the course of 18 months.
Actually, all of the tools downstairs are from my own arsenal. That collection did take years to accummulate. Upstairs is: 1 tub/shower stall, 2 vanities, 2 vanity bowls, 2 toilets, 1 wall oven/microwave unit, 1 tankless water heater, and an assortment of faucets and other stuff that I will need as we progress. I am constantly working the home center clearance areas and websites to pick up the stuff we will need later on.

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What about garage sales for tools and stuff ?
















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I don't have the time or patience for garage sales. Craigslist is about as close as I get to that stuff.

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wins my brother is building a metal building that is about that size but without the second floor. It will have a small apartment downstairs. He has done a lot of work himself but not as much as Brettski. His cost is in the ball park of eighty thousand. For what you are proposing I would add another thirty thousand to your costs. This is just a rough guess. Brettski I really like your view from the second floor.

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We continue to diddle with odds and ends, all with the goal of being completely buttoned up for the winter and prepared to take the next big step: partition walls and rough electric. I'm really itchin' to start laying out the walls, but I gotta tend to the details.
One of the notable engineering issues that we have paid attention to is creating a structural bond that starts at the foundation and runs all the way to the roof. It's one of those things that you hope you will never have to see it get tested, but if it does and it's done correctly, the payback is big. I'm talking about uplift...ie; wind and tornadoes.
This weekend, we spent some more time locking the second floor to the first floor.
Last weekend, we bolted the gable walls together. We are using 3/8" carriage bolts in all instances.

-
the gable wall on the back side


the gable wall on the front, below the bank of picture windows (looking down to the base plate at the 2nd floor)


-

The real players for holding the lid down are the other 2 main wall sections. Since the second story walls are mostly the shed dormer, it is a bit trickier. The shed dormer walls are not directly above the 1st floor walls. They are set back by 6" to create the gambrel roof. They bear directly down to the engineered I-joists that support the entire 2nd floor (with the 2nd floor decking sandwiched in between). As a result, the walls on the 2nd floor can tie into either the floor decking below them, or the I-joist flanges. Since the floor decking is glued and ring-shank nailed to the I-joists, I elected to use the decking as my bond below the shed dormer walls. We added 2 x 6 lumber sections as big, wooden washers beneath the decking, gluing them to the underside of the decking and cranking down the carriage bolts to squeeze it all together.

this is the base plate of the shed dormer wall; we installed bolts at every other bay


this is taken from the first floor, looking up to the underside of the decking. The blocks are directly below the shed dormer wall above.


OK, so how is the first floor tied up to the second floor framing?
If you look at the pic above, you can see a horizontal white line about a foot above the door framing. This is the polyurethane caulk that seals the seam between the bottom sheathing and the bonding sheathing set above it. The bottom sheathing is the 8 foot tall OSB that came up short on the 9 foot walls. (see file photo below)

Another row of OSB that is tall enough to reach all the way to the top of the 2nd floor framing is glued and nailed, the bottom 1/2 attached to the 1st floor walls and the top 1/2 attached to the second floor framing. The white caulk in between serves 2 purposes; seals out air transmission and adds an amount of structural bond to aid in wrack prevention.
So, in summary, our mission to tie the top 1/2 of the building to the bottom 1/2 is pretty well covered and completed. I am still considering adding another facet, but secretly hope I lose interest in overkill and move on to the wall framing.



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We also put the finishing touches on another "just in case" facet: the auxilliary power source.
We already had the aux power panel installed from last December, but I never got around to providing the feed from the generator set. Not any more.
At first, I was gonna take the easy route and provide the feed from inside the garage area, next to the breaker panels. I would run an umbilical underneath the garage door to the gennie outside in the driveway....or not. Ultimately, I didn't like the idea of running a power cord under the garage door, nor the thought of all the tiny critters loving the gap it would create in the middle of winter. Dski helped talk me out of that one and we did it the right way....thru the wall to an outlet outside. I didn't want to go that route because it meant cutting a hole thru the nice siding that I just finished installing. Actually, if I had anticipated a bit better, I would'a done it that way anyway.
The real issue was doing surgery to cut the square hole in the siding without collateral damage. Enter Mr. Multi tool. Unreal...you gotta add this thing to your power tool arsenal. I mean, it was more accurate than if I had done when I was installing the siding. Very nice.
We had to drop out out of the bottom of the aux panel to a box to run outside. I was proud that I remembered to bring my bending hickey since there was a 2" offset in the drop pipe. I wasn't so proud when I discovered that I brought the 1/2" hickey...not the 3/4" that I needed. OK, it looks like it's time to use the hillbilly bending hickey; wedged between a couple of 2 x 6's and lean hard. OK, so it's more of a kink than a fluid bend. It works.



I closed my eyes, imagined it was 5 degrees outside and the utility power just failed. I hopped into action!



Yeah, it works...cool.

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Those multitools are great! I've had a fein for a couple years now and its one if those tools you wonder how you ever did without it. I don't use it often, but when I do, it's the only tool that can do the job.

Looking good, Brettski! Keep up the good work.


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Brettski, you are thinking ahead! The only thing that I would have done differently was use larger washers under the head and nut on the carriage bolts. (4" x 4" x .187" C-1045 or so)I'm thinking you used grade 2 (unmarked) bolts, which have a tensile of around 20.6K pounds. I think they will pull thru the wood before they fail in tensile.


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After the 2012 when the apocalypse has destroyed civilization as we know it and the creatures in your pond have mutated into flesh eating zombie versions of themselves (Liberty Zombie Preserve).....


... your building will still be standing.

Originally Posted By: brettski
The real issue was doing surgery to cut the square hole in the siding without collateral damage. Enter Mr. Multi tool. Unreal...you gotta add this thing to your power tool arsenal. I mean, it was more accurate than if I had done when I was installing the siding. Very nice.


Are you talking about a Rotozip or something similar?



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Originally Posted By: jeffhasapond

Originally Posted By: brettski
The real issue was doing surgery to cut the square hole in the siding without collateral damage. Enter Mr. Multi tool. Unreal...you gotta add this thing to your power tool arsenal. I mean, it was more accurate than if I had done when I was installing the siding. Very nice.


Are you talking about a Rotozip or something similar?

No, not a rotozip (but that is another cool tool to have)
this thing
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(edit) bbjr's unit made by Fein is one of the original types, and by far a higher quality unit. It's pricey, but I think it has a lifetime warranty. Mine has a 20 minute/20 foot warranty.

Last edited by Brettski; 01/21/12 12:09 PM. Reason: bbjr's unit is much nicer (the multitool, that is)
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"The only thing that I would have done differently was use larger washers under the head and nut on the carriage bolts."

My thoughts exactly - half the bolt #s and some big washers and or plates.

The power part looks great !!

Last edited by ewest; 11/01/10 11:03 AM.















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ya know, I did consider what level of overkill to pursue on that phase of the project, but I quickly got a metal vision of insurance inspectors combing thru the carnage of a neighborhood that had just been ravaged by an F-2. They got to the over-overkill house and found dozens of small sections of splintered 2 x 6 framing with shards of OSB still glued/attached. The hi tensile bolts with hi carbon 4" washers are still holding the splinters together very nicely.

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" I did consider what level of overkill to pursue ..."

I hear you there.
















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Originally Posted By: Brettski
ya know, I did consider what level of overkill to pursue on that phase of the project, but I quickly got a metal vision of insurance inspectors combing thru the carnage of a neighborhood that had just been ravaged by an F-2. They got to the over-overkill house and found dozens of small sections of splintered 2 x 6 framing with shards of OSB still glued/attached. The hi tensile bolts with hi carbon 4" washers are still holding the splinters together very nicely.


Probably could have gotten the same level of protection with smaller bolts and larger washers. wink It might just stand up to an F-2!


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