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A detailed description up to your usual journalistic standards, Bski.

Funny how excavators never seem to forget to take their good laser level with them. ;\)


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Bski, WOW ! Nice job on the foundation.(and a great write-up) Take a short break.... Tom

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What a job ! That is tough work. Glad no injuries were incurred.
















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60 tons of pea gravel, 2 days of heat-advisory level oppression, and the will of a pondmeister driven to save a few bucks.
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Ramset the expansion joint to the walls, set the bar chairs under the mesh, and we are ready to pour the garage slab.

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Hey man that is looking great! You are really not gonna want to leave when you have your place finished.

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Bski, great looking project and documentation (as usual).
Approx, when will it be finished?


Just do it...
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 Originally Posted By: rmedgar
Bski, great looking project and documentation (as usual).
Approx, when will it be finished?

It's gonna be a slow go. We brought in a couple of hired guns to help us with the concrete flatwork, but after that, the construction crew is D-ski and me. It will be a slow-but-steady process. We hope to have the exterior shell completed and weatherproof before the snow flies. If we are ahead of that goal, YeeHaw! If we are behind that schedule, everything is normal.

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Our next trip started on Sunday. D-ski and I finished prep'ing for the first slab pour. I pitched those crummy masonry and cut nails and used a ramset to attach the 1/2" x 6" expansion joint to the exterior walls. We set a small form to preclude one small corner area from the pour. Lastly, the bar chairs are installed.

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As mentioned, I hired on 2 guys to manage the flatwork pour. It was a good decision. I enjoyed being the go-fer for once. They earned their pay.
They arrived at 8 am the following morning; the first crete truck was there before 8:30. Everybody was gone by 2.
Slab pour #1 complete.




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Coming along very nicely...

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Brettski,

I'm not familiar with your foundation. It reminds me of how we did it in California, but I'm not seeing all of it. Does the rebar tie into the footings? What is the spacing of the rebar? What size rebar are you using?

It's nice to see that you are using chairs. I have a pet peeve against those who don't use them and say that they just pull up the rebar to the middle after the mud is poured. I don't believe it and have seen them try to do this, but fail every time. Never will I do a slab without chairs.

Do you have a county inspector that lives close by? I'm alaways waiting around the the inspectors to show up. Sometimes it's a couple of days, and that's in the city limits!!!!

I think that I'm more impressed with how quickly you can get your inspections done and move on to the pours then I am with your progress.

Eddie


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Brettski,
You are almost at the part I liked best, the framing. Everything before and after seemed soooo slow.

I helped my father in law do the framing on his house, he is a tool guy, and it was overall a breeze. He had a nail gun for every portion of the job.

The hardest part was the floor joist for the second floor. It was a lot of work and slow for two people. A third person to carry the joist and cut the blocks and backing would have helped a lot.

I must admit, I do like sitting here with a beer watching you work.


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 Originally Posted By: eddie_walker
Brettski,

I'm not familiar with your foundation. It reminds me of how we did it in California, but I'm not seeing all of it. Does the rebar tie into the footings? There are vertical dowels that tie the footing to the stem wall. For this type foundation (where there is presssure from both sides of the wall as opposed to a basement on one side of the wall), the dowels between the footing and the wall are not even required. I felt better about doing it, had the steel and the time, so I put them in. What is the spacing of the rebar? What size rebar are you using? There are 2 #6 continuous in the footing (#5 min reqd). Where the footing spans the 4" PVC utility chase line that runs directly below it, I added 2 more #6 x 8' rebar into the footing. There are 2 #5 continuous at top of stem wall (none reqd).
It's nice to see that you are using chairs. I have a pet peeve against those who don't use them and say that they just pull up the rebar to the middle after the mud is poured. I don't believe it and have seen them try to do this, but fail every time. Never will I do a slab without chairs.

Do you have a county inspector that lives close by? I'm alaways waiting around the the inspectors to show up. Sometimes it's a couple of days, and that's in the city limits!!!! Yes, I do have an inspector close by. He came by for the footing inspection. I had just started setting the iron into the footing so he could see the plan. That was all he needed. It turned into more of a social visit with my dirt guy.

I think that I'm more impressed with how quickly you can get your inspections done and move on to the pours then I am with your progress.

Eddie


There is much more detail and pics on the LNP website; link is on my first post that kicked off this thread.

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 Originally Posted By: Rad
Brettski,
You are almost at the part I liked best, the framing. Everything before and after seemed soooo slow.

I helped my father in law do the framing on his house, he is a tool guy, and it was overall a breeze. He had a nail gun for every portion of the job.

The hardest part was the floor joist for the second floor. It was a lot of work and slow for two people. A third person to carry the joist and cut the blocks and backing would have helped a lot.


We are spending a little more $ to try to improve the 2nd floor overall. We are going to clear span the entire 28' with some substantial engineered I joists. I am hoping that this also moves things along a little quicker.
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I must admit, I do like sitting here with a beer watching you work.

My Chumpon jobsite foreman; damn glad you're aboard, sir.

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Bski, when you are planning to clear span the entire 28', remember that when they are being designed to code (L/360 or higher, hopefully) that you could have up to an inch of deflection in the entire span, and still meet code. You may want to reconsider such a long span, so that you have a stiffer floor.


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Impressive use of steel. I've never even used 3/4 rebar. I'm not even sure if my supplier has it!!!! Most homes around here are done with #4 and #3, but like you, I prefer to upgrade to the next size in the footings and critical areas.

Eddie


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Brettski,
You can count on me to be here, beer in hand, for as long as the job requires.

I used 20' glulam joist for a garage deck and was pleasantly surprised and the lack of trampoline effect.

I am guessing that the rebar is to support some really heavy duty toys later on?

Almost forgot, what with the responsibility of keeping an eye on your job and all, but I promised you some pictures of the 5 foot cantilevered balcony. I'll get on that first thing tomorrow.

Last edited by Rad; 06/30/09 08:17 AM.

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My parents had a lot of concrete work done around their house recently. The contractor balked at the idea of using fiber reinforced concrete along with steel reinforcing, but the pours that he did using it haven't cracked yet, where the pours that he just used steel have cracked in places that weren't supposed to crack.

Brettski: If you want to keep stains off of the concrete floor, I've used Kure-n-Seal 30LV and gave the new concrete 2 coats a day apart, with the 2nd coat having a quart of shark-grip mixed into every 5 gallon container for anti-slip. My neighbor uses it (minus the shark-grip) on the floor of his trans shop and it's kept the oil from staining his floor. He re-coats it with Kure-n-seal 25LV once a year on the high traffic areas.

As it was mentioned before, if you are going to drywall the ceiling, you have to over-engineer the floor/ceiling joists to prevent the drywall ceiling from cracking when the beams deflect from the load.

The project is coming along nicely!


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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 Originally Posted By: Brettski
Lastly, the bar chairs are installed.


Thank goodness, I thought I was going to have to stand while enjoying an adult beverage.

Dang Bski, doing great work as usual. Did you know this much about construction before this started?


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 Originally Posted By: bbjr
Bski, when you are planning to clear span the entire 28', remember that when they are being designed to code (L/360 or higher, hopefully) that you could have up to an inch of deflection in the entire span, and still meet code. You may want to reconsider such a long span, so that you have a stiffer floor.

Thanks for the heads-up, bbjr. I'm working with a Georgia Pacific engineer. The product we will use will exceed L/480 with the planned load. I have also nix'd the hot tub and grand piano.

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esshup,

Did the contractor say anything specific in regards to fiber reinforcing? Not my area of the country, but I have made my living in fiber reinforcement for the last 20 years. I always like to get info from contractor perspective.

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When pressed further, he didn't like it because it needed more time/effort to finish when steel trowled so the fibers didn't show.

I worked in Ca. doing concrete repairs, and always thought of fibers in the concrete taking care of the small cosmetic cracks, and the steel taking care of the structural integrety of the pour.


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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 Originally Posted By: Brettski
I have also nix'd the hot tub and grand piano.


I don't give a dang about the grand piano, but


NO HOT TUB??? \:o


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 Originally Posted By: Brettski
 Originally Posted By: bbjr
Bski, when you are planning to clear span the entire 28', remember that when they are being designed to code (L/360 or higher, hopefully) that you could have up to an inch of deflection in the entire span, and still meet code. You may want to reconsider such a long span, so that you have a stiffer floor.

Thanks for the heads-up, bbjr. I'm working with a Georgia Pacific engineer. The product we will use will exceed L/480 with the planned load. I have also nix'd the hot tub and grand piano.


I figured you had taken it into consideration already, but I just wanted to post in case you overlooked it while thinking about everything else. I almost did the same thing this year on my house. I needed a 28' span, and was going to go with floor trusses, but at the last minute, I calculated my deflection and couldn't stomach it.


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Even at L/480, I think the defelection is somewhere around .620" when under full load. If it were my actual house, I might be inclined to reconsider. For a garage apartment, it is well beyond acceptable. Thanks again...

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How far apart are the "engineered I-joists" going to be?

Are you planning on insulating the outside of the garage area? The living area space's floor above the garage? Wall between the garage and the downstairs living area?

Last edited by Theo Gallus; 07/01/09 08:12 AM.

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