Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Another idea

i havent both laughed and admired a young pondboss member so much in a long time......kudos bbjr.....
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and welcome to the GSA...

Poor Cecil, I know how you feel.

I've been following all this and it is interesting but makes my punny head hurt.

During the drought my pond got down to the water table which is pretty low for the pond, but about where the water table is even during wet years, then never went lower. The evaporation was made up by the surrounding water table still being at that level. This happened two years in a row.

Now if I pumped water out at a sustainable level into a container that could hold water I could have water in that container at the level of full pool and the pond wouldn't go down either unless I pumped out so much I reduced the level of the water table. But if I just pumped water from the bottom of my pond into the air and let it fall back into the pond the pond level wouldn't go up.

What if I pumped the water into the container and let it over flow back into the pond. Could I start filling the pond back up if I didn't pump so much water as to reduce the seepage of the surrounding water table back into the pond? (The water table around here is pretty constant for a very expansive area and it would take a lot more water than what it would take to fill up my pond to reduce the water table.) I think not, but can't form the logic of why not.

Capillary action is confusing, takes a better mind than mine.

Good luck Cecil, I see what you are saying, but something says it will form an equilibrium and just all flatten out. Like my situtation I can't form the logic, just the feeling.

But otherwise a good idea and at worse a pump can fix it all.

Since you can only pump approximately 50% more water instead of doubling your well to 90 gpm do you think you can still double your pond production by some conservation methods.

BTW the way I emailed your ice fishing art piece to my wife. She is a photographer and love it. I had to copy and send her the whole post on how you made the ice and snow. She'd love to have something like that big enough to put little kids on for a prop. She sends you her compliments.

CB1, Now you know why I suggested (off forum) to use valves to divert flow from the inlet pipe to each spawning/fry pond. They make couplings for corregated drain pipe to smooth wall PVC drain pipe. They also now make smooth wall corregated drain pipe. Diversion valves could be as simple as surface access ports cut into the pipes from above and plugs used to reroute the flows. Since your flow pipes are not real deep below the ground surface, surface access ports could be located inside buried tubs, buckets or small barrels, each with lids for easy access.

Bill,

I've already done that with the back ponds. I can move water anywhere I want back there or even divide it between ponds. But it's a little easier when you install that stuff while you are laying the pipe.

One thing to keep in mind about all that drainage pipe, smooth drainage pipe, PVC, etc. etc. It's all different diameters even if they say it's the same. Not always easy to patch them together. I know from experience!