Pond Boss Forums AQUATIC VEGETATION Controlling unwanted plants Nutrient control and Triploid Grass Carp

I have searched through the current listing to find some info on control of Chara algae. I see some southern folks use Talpia with success. I am in the north, and Tripliod are what is recommended. Looking for someone with experience with using these fish. Please let me know.

I also see everyone states that if your pond is full of nutrients, using Cutrine will not last long, and if you kill the chara, you will get other forms of algae. I see that everyone likes the use of aeration, to mix the water and reduce the nutrients. I have a system and it seems to work OK, but is not enough by itself. It seems simple enough that if you can reduce the nutrients you can reduce the algae. I do not have runoff that dumps into the pond, but I do have leaves, dead algae, fish waste that add up. There are many products that state they use up these nutrients, but I have not seen any real evidence. I would also welcome anyone that has experience with a "best" way to reduce the nutrients

Jerry, I have had five triploid Grass Carp in a one acre pond for two years now (pond was 1 1/2 years old when they went in). They have done a very good (some could say too good) job of keeping it clear of submerged plants. We also have considerably less filamentous algae than surrounding ponds (for which I do not give credit to the Grass Carp) as well as small amounts of Duckweed which never seems to multiply (I don't know who/what to thank for that).

I do not think we have ever had Chara, but I have read a report (Langston University in Oklahoma) which states that Grass Carp in moderate numbers (4-6 per acre) will control Chara - link is here: Langston U. Aquatic Vegetation Article

In general, you are removing nutrients (current or future) from your pond anytime you remove organics - fish you catch, FA you rake out, etc. I am sure others will have more (and better) info on nutrient montoring/control, but I think your nutrient levels are OK if if you can get you pond plants to be primarily phytoplankton AND your water clarity is good (Secchi depth 12" - 18" or more).