Pond Boss Forums AERATION Systems questions Top 10 Do's and Dont's Wills and Wont's About Air

I am creating this post for the basic new guy that had all the same questions I had when I was first getting into air. I will keep it very basic and try NOT to confuse anyone, but I have noticed more and more folks asking and PMing me a lot asking simple questions I believe I can help with at this point. Of course if I get anything wrong experts please chime in and feel free to correct my post. I have no problem with that.

Do's and Dont's Will's and Wont's

1. Q: Will a vacuum pump work the same as a air pump?
A: Yes it's a little confusing but they call it a vacuum pump because it will do both suck and or blow out air. It has two holes on it one for each depending what you want all you have to do is put a filter on the vacuum side to keep junk from getting down into your pump.

2. Q: Do I have to use weighted hose from my ponds edge to my diffusers?
A: No you don't have to but it sure makes it a LOT easier and you don't have to worry about anyone or anything getting caught up in your hose line.

3. Q: Do I have to put oil in this pump?
A: Well it depends on the type of pump you have but a lot of the pumps out there are "oil free" so you don't have to add oil to it. It should say on your pump if it is or not.
You should not use a pump that needs oil as oil can leak past the seals and end up in the pond, potentially partially clogging the diffuser or airstone on the way to the water.

4. Q: How far can I have my pump from the ponds edge?
A: Well I know some guys that have there pump over 1000 feet away from the pond all they do is run some type of air hose/ PVC pipe to the ponds edge and then hook up to the air line going to the diffusers.

5. Q: Do I need one air station or two or 3?
A: Well this depends on size of pond shape of pond and or obstacles in your pond. Do research on this one and you will find your answer that best fits your pond.

6. Q: Will air help my ponds weed and algae issues?
A: Well probably not really everyone seems to think it will but it really doesn't at least not right away or over night. Remember your main reason for getting air is to get more dissolved oxygen in your pond to help them fish and bacteria breath!! Not to get rid of weeds and algae it will however help with the muck on the bottom of your pond but be patient.

7. Q: Do I have to have a certain type of diffuser?
A: Yes you need to have a diffuser that creates fine bubbles not large bubbles. Vertex and others make good FINE bubble diffusers that will work great for your setup. Most diffusers that folks use are in the 9 inch category. For a diffuser that is used during the winter, a diffuser that produces coarse bubbles is better because it makes more wave action, which helps keep a larger hole open in the ice. A fine bubble diffuser will work also.

8. Q: Do I have to have a gauge on my pump?
A: No you do not, but it's a good idea so you can see what is going on with your pump and setup. If your standard pressure is 4 to 5 psi and you are running at 18 psi how are you gonna know something is wrong? It's always a good idea to have a pressure gauge and a relief valve on your system if you can.

9: Q: Should my diffusers be spread out or close to each other on my air station?
A: They should be close about a inch or so apart is good. The reason for this is you get your best upwelling / movement of water to the surface from them being close together and that's what you want!
It depends on the water depth. A larger diameter column of bubbles will move more water than a smaller diameter column of bubbles. Finer bubbles will move more water than coarser bubbles. In water less than 8 feet deep, place the diffuser discs roughly 1" apart. In water deeper than 8 feet, place the diffuser discs about 6" apart. Once the bubbles from the individual diffuser discs move approximately 6 to 8 feet they will merge together and make one large column. In shallower water the wide diffuser placement will have the diffusers working against one another, creating a void between where water will not be moving upward as fast.
10. Q: Do I have to run my air 24/7?
A: Well this one depends. What you really want is to have at least one turn over of your entire water column in a 24 hour period. So if you can do that in 8 hours instead of 24 then no you don't need to. This is one of those it all depends questions. Do your research on your setup versus you pond size and you'll get your answer. Just remember you want a system that can at least turn your pond over once in a 24 hour period. If you find out you can do this in a 12 hour period instead then run your system at night because that will be when your D.O. is at it's lowest point in your pond and your fish will be the most vulnerable.

Yeah I know I added a question.

11. Q: What type of start up procedures do I need to go by when starting up my air for the first time?
A: If your water is above 50 or so degrees you need to do a 15 minute startup first day then 30 min the next day and double it for each day until your running full time. If you do smell Hydrogen Sulfide in your bubble plume stay at that time on your air until the smell goes away then increase after that.

I hope this helps out some of the new guys out here looking and lurking. I've added some links to my system and others who have used something very close to the same thing. I know it sure would have helped me when I was working on my first system. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask any question no matter how dumb you think it is it could save your pond and your fish!!! Keep in mind these links are old and not sure if all of them still work inside the original??

I have cense this project updated my pump to a GAST 0523 1/3 hp pump that I am very happy with v.s. the Eco 7 some Eco 7's worked great others not so good so you kinda get what you pay for, but at the time it was all I could afford and worked well for me for 4 years in about 8 to 9 foot of water. Hope all of this will help you all out as much as possible!!

RC

Here is a link to my original setup and a link or 2 from others who used something similar.

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=17828&Number=229082#Post229082


http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=228882#Post228882

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=252928&page=1

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=323396#Post323396

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=294637#Post294637

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=245867#Post245867

Thanks for the write up

Very good RC. Thanks. Yes, it does help.

No problem always glad to try and pay it forward. It's been suggested by someone that I put my links in the post of my system and the changes I have made. I will try and do that tomorrow. I think that would be a good idea for anyone looking for my posts as it's hard to find them sometimes.

RC

Good work RC!
Thank you

Thanks BASS I also have included some links to the thread for some good reading. My first system the " RC51 DIY system" was as much as I could spend at the time and it worked great for me for about 4 years. My original air pump finally gave out it wasn't the best pump mind you that's for sure but it got me going and did a decent job. As I stated above if you can I would get a GAST or a Thomas pump instead of the Eco 7. They are much stronger pumps and don't have to work so hard to get the job done and will last you a lot longer if you take care of them. But if you have to give the Eco 7 a shot if your in that 8 to 9 foot of water it just may very well surprise you!

RC

Hey everyone I hope this top 10 / 11 list helps some folks out. I'm still getting some PM's and questions which is fine don't get me wrong always glad to answer what I can and help out, but in case you haven't seen this post thought I would bump it up one more time for those who may have missed it.

Thanks,

RC

Great write up, RC! But can I ask for or offer a clarification (if I'm correct)?


As I initially thought the same thing, that I'm adding DO, it seems the purpose of aeration is to more evenly disperse the DO/O2 throughout the BOW by turning it over at least once per day. To eliminate having areas of high and low concentrations of DO in shallow water vs deep, cool water vs warm, each having differing levels of DO?

Your above quote isn't saying you're adding DO, and seems correct in that you're getting more DO to help them fish and bacteria breath. But am I correct that you're not "getting more DO in your pond", but getting the DO more evenly dispersed for them all to enjoy and thrive on?

Yes and No.

Yes you are getting the D.O. in your pond more evenly dispersed for all.

No you are in correct when you say your not getting more D.O. into your pond. That's exactly what the air stations are doing. As the water gets pushed up to the surface of the pond and contacts the air it then grabs that air and puts more D.O. into your pond. Hence the reason why you want at least one turn over a day. So all your water can hit the atmosphere at the surface of your pond and obtain more D.O. for your pond. It then mixes for all to enjoy.

RC

In addion to what was said, it is the air water interface where most of the DO that comes from air comes from due to partial pressure differences, as I understand it. Only a minimal ammount from the bubbles themselves because of the limited surface area. Bubbles move water to mix, as was said.

Respiration from plants actively growing also another significant source.

Snrub that is correct.

RC

Keith, RC,

Vertex and others will tell you that you are adding some DO2 to your water by the interaction with the bubbles, but the main reason you use bottom diffused aeration as I understand it is to move the bottom water to the surface where it will off gas the hydrogen sulfides and pickup some O2. The stirring action moves O2 holding water to the bottom with the circulation and opens new areas to your fish. This O2 will be consumed and must be replaces ( the reason for one turnover per day). The aerobic bacteria will use the O2 to break down the biological material on the bottom with the provided O2, helping to keep your pond bottom cleaner.

If you want to add a lot of O2, surface aeration is the best way. Moving dead water to the surface for natural cleansing, that is the job of bottom aeration as I understand it.

Yes sir sounds good to me! Thanks HF!!

RC

Thank you, Brian, Snrub and RC!

Great explanations and much appreciated!