Pond Boss Forums AQUATIC VEGETATION Controlling unwanted plants How to control algae

I have a 2 acre pond near Birmingham, Alabama. This year, a green, slimy algae has formed around the edges. Based on prior posts here, it seems similar to filamentous (sp?) algae. On the surface, it's a scum-like thick yellow-green film. Below the surface, it's a thick, angel-hair consistency, several feet deep. It seems to be increasing slowly. A real mess. Will this decrease as the water temp rises over the summer? If not, what treatment should I use. I have a very healthy population of bluegill and bass.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Dave Keyes

Cutrine Plus? I may have found the answer - Cutrine Plus - but I'd like to hear some advice on the application. The green/yellow scum and angel-hair algae appear to be just at the shoreline and out to about 3-4 feet from water's edge, stopping after the water gets about 3 feet deep.
I'm wondering if the liquid Cutrine Plus or granular form is best. I'm thinking about filling my hand-held tank sprayer and walking around the shoreline and spraying the algae. It's a 2-acre pond, but I'm only spraying the outer edge, so I think I need less than a gallon?? What should be the dilution / mix per gallong of water?
Any advice on this approach is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave Keyes

There is an excellent book out there for less than $10.00 that talks about weed and algae control, identification, and the whole nine yards.

It's the 5th edition and called, "How to identify and control Water Weeds and Algae. I know it is available at AES but may even be for sale on this site. (Sorry too lazy to check).

I have it and wouldn't be without it.

Cecil

have an 18 acre lake that has seen trouble with coontail moss.how ever this year down the road they have built a new tree nursery.they built a holding pond for their water for the trees.this year with all the rain the pond overflowed and went into a drainage system that has now flowed into my lake.the algae is unbeliveable.we have never had a problem with it in the past until the nursery was built.wondering if the chemicals that they put on the trees has this effect on the lake.looked today at the water and it has colors of pink and white in the algae.kelly, if you read this post can you chime in with any help?belive you know who i am.have a call into natural resource and water but have not heard back from them yet

The general recommendation for using cutrine plus liquid for filamentous control is 1 gallon/acre, mixed 10 to 1 with water. That pretty well rules out a handheld sprayer. Other alternatives include a 25 gallon electric demand sprayer for peripheral algal control, or a small gas water pump and mix tank in a boat for more mobility. Don't wait too long to take care of the problem because of dissolved oxygen considerations.

Thanks for the info. I talked with the tech guys at the Cutrine mfg'r. Recommended 16oz to 1.5 gallons of water. I used a hand-held tank sprayer to coat the algae around the bank 5 days ago. Seems to be working well. There's a noticeable diff between the sprayed area and others. Good thing about Cutrine is the color blue - easy to see where you've sprayed. I plan on treating 1/4 of the bank every 2 weeks to cut down on oxygen depletion. I'll post results when I'm done.
Thanks again for all the comments.
Dave

It's BAAAACCCCKKK! Well, the Cutrine plus worked well about 6 weeks ago on the Fil. Algae problem around the whole pond (see above posts). Went to the pond yesterday and it's BACK. Either I didn't get it all the first time, or it started from scratch. I'm buying the book recommended on controlling weeds, etc. For now, knowing absolutely ZIP about this process, I'm wondering whether it's normal for it to return so quickly or was it just an incomplete kill my first go-round? Thanks for all of the help on this board. What a great resource!

David - I missed your earlier posts; they must have been archieved before I had a chance to see 'em.
Welcome to the world of filamentous algae. Once it becomes established in your pond, it may become the aquatic version of the Eveready Bunny.
Based on your early post comments, the overflowing tree farm pond may have provided the fuel (nitrogen) that allowed the algae to become a problem. I'm a little puzzled about the pink and white colorations that you mentioned.
As for your recent experience, CUTRINE PLUS (liquid for floating mats and shoreline shallows or granular for bottom-growths in slightly deeper waters) is an appropriate treatment. However, you will NEVER eradicate algae from your pond with (legal) algaecides. But, you can manage and/or reduce their populations so that they don't represent a problem.
Six weeks of control with CUTRINE was a luxury. Normally, the treated algae will die & decompose and, in doing so, release nutrients that fuel the next generation of algae growth.
Another management technique to explore is the use of a lake dye (AQUASHADE) - though not highly recommended for fishing ponds - or the use of a plankton-producing fertilization program - which ALSO benefit your fisheries productivity. Both practices reduce sunlight penetration into the water column, which is a necessary ingredient for a prolific filamentous algae population.
In most cases, filamentous algae only becomes a real problem in overly clear water. So, focus on getting some "color" in your pond. You may still need to treat some patches of algae, depending upon your tolerance level.
Good luck.
Kelly

Thanks, Kelly.
I guess I was hoping that the cutrine would stop it for a longer period, but sounds like I'm in pretty good shape, stopping it for 6 weeks. (the pink and white colors were from another post, not mine) - mine's just that beautiful pukey yellow/green slime color that we all love.
Thanks for the detailed post. I really appreciate the time and advice.
Dave

I had a bad algae problem for the first time this spring and used cutrine plus granular but before I applied it I skimmed all the algae off by the edges (2-3" thick) with a pool skimming net that is about 1ft by 2ft. It took half a day to do a 1 acre pond but it was well worth it. The net comes out quite heavy. Wait for a windy day shortly afterward to focus the left over algae in one corner and skim it out. Then and only then I put in the cutrine. No worries about oxygen depletion because you are not causing hundreds of pounds of algae to break down in your pond, plus you are not feeding the new algae growth. I live in Wisconsin and the last thing we do here is fertilize our ponds because they are nutrient rich already. I had a clear pond all summer (3-4 months) with one application. It may not last that long for you but remove what algae you can and get it away from the pond and you will not be feeding the new stuff.

Brian - Good advice for smaller ponds; although it's pretty tough doing that for 7 - 12 acre ponds. Feasable but most won't make the effort even if it's the better thing to do.

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to ask you guys if fertilizing every Spring from a ponds initial construction is enough to keep pond scum in check. This is provided the pond is being flushed by heavy rains before the fert has a chance to bloom. Thanks

I meant to say provided the pond is NOT being flushed too often. Sorry. Bill I finally found a thread that helped me more on controlling the algea. It seems like in some the question of whether or not regular fert treatments when the temp is right will control algae is going to work for some and maybe not for others. I had high hopes of being able to build a spring fed pond but the turnover is a pretty big drawback in terms of a fert program. On the other hand wouldn't it be good for preventing deadly DO drops in the Spring and Fall?

I think deadly DO drops are more likely to occur in the mid-summer. If you have a short water retention time I think it is best to pellet feed your fish and deal with the weeds with amur. You will have to prevent their escape by fencing the outlet. Note amur may not be optimum if your overall water temps are cool during summer. Amur like it warm. 70s to hi 80s. However if filamentous algae is your biggest problem amur don't like filametous algae very well.

It seems our fertilized ponds have little weeds or algae except for filamentous algae. I have had my guys doing several copper applications this spring for filamentous algae. It grows before the temps get high enough to fertilize and the grass carp as mentioned don't like and can not keep up with its quick growth. It is less of problem in the warmer summer months. As Bill said if you have a low retention time supplemental feeding is important in lieu of fertilizing.

this is a good old thread on algae control. i too think i will treat for algae along my banks. if i use a copper product, will it affect any of the grasses or weeds that are growing in shallow water? i do not want to kill these. -jb

never mind. i found the answer buried in another post on the same subject.

FILAMENTOUS ALGAE-now even looks like pollen/algae build up. ANYONE know of someone who can come out and look at my ponds to get me on track?
I have two ponds both about 1/2 an acre each with an avg 6 ft depth.
I have tried an array of products from , CrystalPlex, to Rodeo, to Cutrine +, to CopperSulfate, to BLue Dye,etc...
Over the past couple of years I have seen Algae and Broad leaf weeds Die and multiply. The Ponds do have noneffective grass carp and Coi (SP) Bass and Cats. I really want to eliminate the algae to a managable problem.
I am considering ariating/pumps/fountains???
My ponds currently have 2% blue dye in it, many fish, and 4 baby ducks.