My family has a pond that is about 30’x200’ in the dry season and surface area probably doubles in the spring. The deepest section might be 20'.I’ve planted largemouth bass in the pond in years past and they get fat and happy then freeze out. This is because there is no year around water flow, and what not. Back in the day my Grandpa had power at the pond and a homemade aerator, he had rainbow trout in there for a short time and something must have gone awry. Anyway today there is no power anywhere nearby. Which brings me to my problem on a very limited budget I can’t afford a solar powered aeration system. My family being crafty in building things decided this year we are going to aerate the pond to keep the freshly planted bass alive through next winter. I’ve thought long and hard about a wind powered aerator, but it is very mountainous with little wind. We’ve thought of several aeration ideas but none look possible. One idea still floating in my head is a floating greenhouse, or something similar. I know this would not aerate the water, but it might keep the pond from freezing over completely. I’m open to ideas and comments.
I have often wondered if a high post leaning over a pond with a heavy weight somewhat like a wreaking ball could be raised and dropped every day to keep open a spot for the fish to come and get oxygen. It could be wound up by hand and dropped or raised with a 12 volt cable wench.
The wrecking ball is a neat idea, but I would like something more self-sufficient. Cecil Baird1 the hoop house might work. I don’t know if they would get hot enough to melt the ice under them. Also we can get a lot of snow here in Washington that might crush the hoop house. As for power its only about 500’ from the pond and there is a county road between there. I’m wondering now if there’s a culvert near there where I could run an airline through. I need to research the cheap homemade solar aeration systems that Cecil Baird1 mentioned. The solar system seems to be the most feasible.
I have often wondered if a high post leaning over a pond with a heavy weight somewhat like a wreaking ball could be raised and dropped every day to keep open a spot for the fish to come and get oxygen. It could be wound up by hand and dropped or raised with a 12 volt cable wench.
Now THAT is out of the box thinking!!! Not sure it would work but cool idea non the less
How long can you wait? I have my third generation solar aeration system including a new bottom diffuser almost completed. I have been and continue to look for new test sites. I give the systems/build plans for free in return for 2 year test feedback.
The wrecking ball is a neat idea, but I would like something more self-sufficient. Cecil Baird1 the hoop house might work. I don’t know if they would get hot enough to melt the ice under them. Also we can get a lot of snow here in Washington that might crush the hoop house. As for power its only about 500’ from the pond and there is a county road between there. I’m wondering now if there’s a culvert near there where I could run an airline through. I need to research the cheap homemade solar aeration systems that Cecil Baird1 mentioned. The solar system seems to be the most feasible.
Just an inch or so underground would be sufficient for an airline. We've just made a cut with a spade for mine. I even have airlines on top of the ground with no issues.
If you set up the hoophouse BEFORE the ice forms it may keep a small area open. You said it would be floating right?
I would use the pink or blue high density foam for flotation. I would probably amaze you how little it would take to float a hoop house. And it doesn't have to be any bigger than 4 by 8 probably. Two or four anchors to hold it in position. Worth an experiment.
As far as solar, MNfish is the expert here. I know nothing.
Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 02/16/1508:29 PM.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
MNfish I am excited about your offer! I do not own the land so I will run it by some family members. My aeration time line is implementation before next winter, so at least we go lots of time. On a side note I was thinking about enlarging the pond, because it has become silted in. When I posted this thread I said the pond was around 20’ deep but today I visually checked and it looked more around 10’. Also there are 2 smaller ponds that become shallow and separated in the dry season. I was thinking about seeing if I could barrow a family member’s excavator and tend to this problem. That’s where my next question comes in, when should I plan the expansion? I just planted 9 largemouth bass last week, and I don’t want to muddy up the water and kill them. In the back of my mind I was thinking if I just worked on the end with the 2 smaller ponds, this might leave the water on the other end livable? Also the bass might spawn around late May, so would digging now cause less damage? It is very early spring/late winter here so the water level is going to be at a lower point. It would be nice to connect all the ponds to avoid casualties in the winter, so maybe I’ll make that my goal.
Esox- It reads like you have a lot going on! All very good stuff and please don't rush on my part. Actually my stuff may not be the right fit...I'm not going anywhere and still need time to get the engineering right. Please, bounce all your ideas/goals off these guys here first.
Teehjaeh57 and the rest of the guys here will get you the info you need. Plan, plan, plan, then execute!
I might be off base on this but I thought I read out here somewhere that some folks use a gas auger and make ice fishing holes here and there in the pond to help it breath? Would that work? I am not sure I suppose you would have to go out and keep them cleaned out.
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
Augering holes in the ice to improve the DO in a pond is basically just exercise for the person boring holes. Plus the holes freeze over with a skim of ice usually in minutes. Oxygen diffusion is very slight into water of the bored ice holes compared to even minimal aeration for hours and circulating the water during winter. Cold water circulated very easily with minimal resistance compared to warm water conditions of summer.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 02/18/1504:56 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
Yeah chopping ice or augering holes would be an extensive chore that I do not want to be a part of. Pile some snow on that ice and it wouldn’t be my idea of a good time. I know a hole in the ice wouldn’t contribute much to the DO content of the water, so why chop the holes? I think you gain a way to release gases from decomposing plant matter, which uses oxygen. Am I on the right track? This makes me think that the floating greenhouse would be pointless too? Since chopping ices holes is very similar.
I talked to my Grandpa about his previous aeration attempt and he said he used a smog pump out of an old chevy! He went on to say that it didn’t pump enough air, and the pipe in the middle of the pond got clogged with mud. I was thinking about ways to avoid a clogged airline. Maybe suspend the line off the bottom with an elbow that I add supports to so it stays up right. I think he still has the smog pump. Maybe I’ll look into using it. What size of solar panel would be sufficient to power a project like this? If I go that route.
"Smog" pumps from cars generally have a lot of air movement but produce lower pressure. Their air pressure is not great enough to pump air much deeper than 5 maybe 7ft as I recall. If you measured the air pressure of the pump that will give a good idea of the depth it can blow air out of a hose or diffuser.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
What if I get a fuel pump out of a truck and give it like a 3’ drop in the pond? The height of the drop would probably be determined by the pumps capabilities. This would make a very small water fall and increase DO. Is a fuel pump a low pressure pump similar to the smog pump? Wouldn't the fuel pump run on 12V DC, which sounds like a good thing if I'm wanting the sun to power whatever I end up building.
Originally Posted By: Cecil Baird1
For those of you that don't know, using a 12VDC compressor is more eficient thsn using a 120VAC compressor and converting the DC volts from the solar panel(s) to AC for an AC compressor. But initial capital costs will be higher!
Thanks for all the great info Cecil. The quote is from the, DIY solar power for pond equipment thread.
Hey Esox of by some chance you go with a mini greehouse thing a geodesic design would be best in heavy snowfall and sturdiness against strong winds. You can build small ones out of pvc or buy a kit.
I may consider one next winter as an experiment to see if it would keep some water open.
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
I don’t think the fuel pump would work pumping water. Most fuel pumps are submerged in fuel. The fuel acts as a lubricant, where water would not. Also gasoline is more resistant to electrical flow then water, so the water might cause a short. Dang…
12 volt transfer pumps are readily available. Check Ebay.
"Forget pounds and ounces, I'm figuring displacement!"
If we accept that: MBG(+)FGSF(=)HBG(F1) And we surmise that: BG(>)HBG(F1) while GSF(<)HBG(F1) Would it hold true that: HBG(F1)(+)AM500(x)q.d.(=)1.5lbGRWT? PB answer: It depends.
What kind of psi would I need to generate bubbles around a 10’-7’ depth? For that depth would 3.5 psi to 5 psi be sufficient?
Originally Posted By: snrub
10 psi will cover depths up to 20' or so. Thing of it is, 10 cfm at 10 psi is a bunch. Enough for several diffusers at a depth of 20'. But if cfm drops off quite a bit at depth (back pressure), it might not have 10 cfm at depth.Ideally you want to know the max depth in the pond you will use the pump, then look at a performance curve and see what the cfm is at that depth (pond depth in feet times .5 = approx psi the pump will be looking at). Once you know that you can look at diffuser specs and see what type and how many diffusers it will support.
If pick up a solar panel and compressor system like this would it work? The set up would probably also have a linear current booster (to protect to pump), and a battery (to pump at night when it’s the coldest). And the big question is how long will this system run with cheap parts. Granit it will be built to be protected from the elements to enhance its life span. A local thrift shop has a similar pump I’ll check out as well. Would the cheap solar panel work or do I need the higher wattage?
I think I just answered my wattage question. That compressor pulls 2.92 amps, and the cheap solar panel only has 0.105 amps so it wouldn't work very well. The expensive solar panel runs 12.5 amps! I guess I better save for a good solar panel.
Shoot just checked on the pond and it was all iced over! At least the ice is thin and transparent. I notice some growing plant life in the water and a few holes in the ice, so maybe my bass won’t freeze out before summer. We’ve been getting freezing nights and worm days, and its supposed to get a lot colder. I broke probably ten holes in the ice. I did this with my hitech water depth measuring device, which consisted of a chuck of metal on a long rope with loops in the rope to indicate the depth. The depth in the middle of the main channel was around 9’, and it looks like in spring it’s more around 11’.
Unless you have waaaaaaay to many LMB in your pond and inch or 2 of clear ice should not kill them. The problem starts to come in when you get that few inches of ice and then it snows all over it and sun cannot get shine into your water. Clear ice is not near as harmful to fish as snow covered ice as far as D.O. goes in your water.
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
Hey Esox your welcome I would also change the way you hold your LMB. Unless your hand was totally wet holding them in the fashion of your picture you could very well do more harm then good. Try your best to hold them by the lower lip and if they are real nice size make sure you hold them straight up and down or use your other hand to support their tail area if you have them on a 45 degree angle. Believe it or now you can break/mess up the jaw of a larger bass and he will die. At the very least make sure your hand is wet. Which you may have done I cant tell in the picture. Just FYI in case you did not know.
The bass looks nice I hope they do well!! Good Luck
RC
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
Thanks for the information about your hand being wet. I’ll definitely utilize that next time. I usually hold them by the lip like a normal person. Due to the angle and the fish trying to escape I ended up just grapping it that way.
So I haven't pulled the trigger on a solar panel yet, but one thing has been running through my mind. That is vandalism, and thieves. My system will be about 40ft from a dirt county road, and about a half mile from the owner’s house (out of sight). What keeps delinquents from breaking it or steeling it? The first thing that I think of is that I’ll build a hefty permanent mount out of steel, eliminating the panel from walking off in the night. Installing cameras isn’t an option no power/funds, thus the cheaply made solar system. My fall back is just stay armed and vigilant, which is always a good option.
