Pond Boss Forums MANAGING AN EXISTING POND Fertilization LIQUID FERTILIZER

I have a Coop here that has liquid fertilizer is there any reason why they couldn't mix me some 10-34-0 to put in my pond. I guess my main question would be would this be any different than the fish fertilizer u buy at the store if so what would be the difference. Thanks

I put out pelleted fertilizer (11-54-0) yesterday. Probably won't dissolve for months. The liquid stuff would have been fantastic. I should have asked if my Co-op had that. Shouldn't be a difference between that and the stuff marketed towards fish. You could check the ingredients to find out how they're getting those N-P-K numbers for good measure.

What's the cost of the liquid stuff? Since the numbers are a percent by weight, I presume 10 lbs of the liquid 10-34-0 has the same quantity of N-P-K as 10 lbs of solid 10-34-0. For comparison sake, the solid stuff should be about 10 lbs/gal.

Well Im not sure this is the first time I have ever tried to fertilize I bought some liquid fertilizer made by mossy oak biologic and it was 19.00 per gallon and it said it treats one acre. I was just thinking that if i fertilize all 4 of my ponds that it would prolly be alot cheaper to have some made up.

See this starting on pg 29.

http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1428.pdf

Fertilizer is always marked with three numbers separated
by dashes. These numbers indicate the percentage
of the fertilizer product that is made of
nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), respectively.
A fertilizer with an N-P-K of 13-37-0 is
13% nitrogen, 37% phosphorus, and 0% potassium.
e key ingredient for ponds is phosphorus (middle
number), so select a fertilizer with high phosphorus
content.
Several types of fertilizer can be used, and all
can be effective if the pond soil pH and water chemistry
are in the correct ranges. Pond fertilizers are
available in liquid, granular, or powdered forms. Liquid
fertilizers dissolve most readily, followed by
powders, and then granular types.
Typical formulations for liquid fertilizers include
10-34-0 and 13-37-0. Apply these fertilizers at the
rate of 1/2 to 1 gallon per surface acre, depending
on pond location and soil fertility (Table 6). Powdered,
highly water-soluble fertilizers, such as 12-
49-6 or 10-52-0, are available and have proven to be
effective and convenient. These formulations are
typically applied at the rate of 2 to 8 pounds per surface
acre, again depending on pond location and soil
fertility (Table 6).
Granular fertilizers are less expensive and are
available in many formulations. Most older ponds
respond well to a phosphorous-only fertilizer such
as Triple Super Phosphate (0-46-0), which is the
most economical formulation. Rates range from 4 to
12 lb per acre per application. In some areas, it may
be difficult to buy 0-46-0, but 0- 20-0 is usually
available. If it is, use twice the amount recommended
for 0-46-0.

Ewest so regular granular fertilizer from a local coop would work as long as it is the right numbers. I understand the phosphourus nitrogen and potassium I just have a local place that makes whatever fertlizer u want mainly for farmers but the can mix whatever number i want.

Just wondering what one would want to not use and Potassium in the pond?

Yes regular fertilizer will work if deployed correctly (not on soil/pond bottom). A common one for ponds is 0-46-0 or 0-45-0. You do need to know your dirt/water's needs though. Some need a little N as well.

In most waters K is not a limiting factor (you don't need more) and P is the limiting factor (need more)and in some N is a little low. It all depends.

Here is a good basic point from an SRAC fact sheet (not on fertilizer but water quality and chemistry.

Ideally, an aquaculture pond
should have a pH between 6.5 and
9 as well as moderate to high total
alkalinity (75 to 200, but not less
than 20 mg/L) and a calcium hardness
of 100 to 250 mg/L CaCO3.
Many of the principles of chemistry
are abstract (e.g., carbonate-bicarbonate
buffering) and difficult
to grasp. However, a fundamental
understanding of the concepts and
chemistry underlying the interactions
of pH, CO2, alkalinity and
hardness is necessary for effective
and profitable pond management.
There is no way to avoid it; water
quality is water chemistry.

Awesome thanks for the great information!

Dan Suttle has a good write up on this topic. I am not making any endorsement and have not interacted with his business in the past. May give some good ideas and practical tips.

http://www.suttlefish.com/fertilizing_pond.html

In regular ag fertilizer 18-46-0 is the most common form of phosphorus fertilizer around this area. Occasionally 0-46-0 can be found, but dealers rarely stock it because the cost is usually the same as 18-46-0 (also called DAP which stands for Diammonium Phosphate) so the N portion is free compared to the 0-46-0 (N-P-K). Something about the manufacturing process that makes both products cost about the same to produce.

DAP

Can't seem to find an online source for a liquid or powder in smaller quantities. I can find a granular in a 25 pound bag but I need probably something 10pounds or less in granular and not sure how much in powder or liquid. Is there an online source for the DAP outside of finding a coop?

If I go granular, how do folks get it to dissolve and slowly release into the pond, as broadcasting it in the pond will cause it to hit the dirt?

I have seen guys build small platforms here in MS, either post supported or float supported, that are right below the water surface. Bags or piles of DAP or other fertilizer can be placed on these small platforms that are only large enough to support a 50# bag or 2 of fertilizer. The surface water movement causes the dissolving granular fertilizer to be dispersed around the pond.

Canyon, the 25# granular water soluble fertilizer comes in a box with a plastic bag liner. You can tie the bag shut after you use what you need and store the excess on a shelf for a long time if it doesn't get wet.