Pond Boss Forums AERATION Should I aerate? What determines if a pond needs an aerator?

Guys, I'm am new to the whole pond thing and was wondering what Is the purpose of the aerator and should I place one in my pond. I live in South Louisiana and I will be digging a 100x200 pond(4/10's acre). 100x60 will be 5' deep and 100x140 will be 10' deep.

Aeration improves the overall health of your pond by adding oxygen when and where you need it most. This improves fish health (which can increase biomass allowance), water clarity and more consistent water temperature throughout the water column instead of unused deeper areas in the summer. Oh, can also help keep algae blooms back too. Multiple benefits and is always suggested if it’s possible.

Would I be able to get away without an aerator for 6 months to a year till I have the funds to buy one? Also,when I get an aerator does it run 24/7 or only certain times and for so long?whats the insight on wind powered aerators ?

I looked at doing a wind powered one and came away with two concerns. First, one time that you really want the extra DO is when it is hot and still at night and the DO levels are lower. A wind powered aerator doesnt help at all if there is no wind. Second, if you check them, many are not intended to handle all depths. The 5' might be fine but the 10' may not unless you spend more or get the right type.

Those were enough to make me consider doing something else. Not to mention my general dislike of having to make changes to something on top of a 20' tower when it needs servicing...

As to amount of aeration, if you do a search here, you will find some that say more DO is more DO so getting more of your water to the surface means more oxygen in your pond. Some have expressed concern about super-heating your shallower ponds by constant turnover.

So best answer is PM some of the aeration specialists here and they can help you with a system based on your specific pond shape, size and needs.

John

I'm not trying to hijack a thread here but this is sort of related. We have a windmill type aerator and wondering if you can put some type of pressure tank on it so it works when the wind stops. Do they make anything like that?

NRA besides for the problem of not always having wind how do you like you wind mill aerator?

This one has been up for about 8 years and hasn't given anyone any problems. There was one air stone originally, and after about 6 years it sunk down in the muck or got covered with vegetation (we're guessing)so not bubbling as much as when we put it in.

We added a second one along with a splitter valve a few weeks ago and placed this one in a bucket with a rope and float so we can pull it up if needed. Still have to go fishing or deep sea diving for the other one!

Overall, I like it. The only issue is it comes on when the wind wants it to and there's no way to control that. We do however, get a pretty steady breeze there on most days, and it doesn't take much wind to get it bubbling. I wasn't around when it was installed so no input on that.

CS - Try reading this about how water forms temperature layers in ponds and lakes. Here is some preliminary background reading to help you better understand the advanced reading in the link which explains why ponds that form temperature layers and need aeration which in reality is just strong mixing action of bringing "bad" water from bottom to top where it is "cleaned" up (reoxygenated) and often degased of the gasses from decomposition (organic decay). Each water layer has a name: top warm layer is epilimnion, middle layer is thermocline, and deep cold layer is hypolimnion. The top layer is the most well mixed layer by primarily the wind action and usually contains the most dissolved oxygen aka DO. Thermocline is the transition layer with rapid temperature change and this layer separates the top layer from the bottom layer aka hypolimnion. Hypo is from Greek meaning under and limnion meaning lake. Bottom or hypolimnion layer often has low or no DO several weeks after it is formed. It depends. Generally the older and more nutrient rich the pond the faster the thermocline and hypolimnion layers loose the DO. In a new pond DO loss is not so fast as in an older pond or a productive pond (green with blooms). Older productive ponds have more growth, thus more death, thus more dead stuff to daily decay. Usually clear water with visibilities of 5-10ft means low productivity (less growth) and they have naturally higher DO concentrations deeper into the pond due to sunlight penetrating into these deep waters where phytoplankton can thrive and make DO.
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92639#Post92639

For general use ponds IMO, you will not do irreparable damage to a new pond if you do not aerate it in the first year or two. There are exceptions and it all depends. The sooner you install bottom aeration the less the pond will have to "catch up" on digesting the organic accumulations that deposit on the pond's bottom sediments in the thermocline and hypolimnion areas. New ponds do not generally form lots of organic muck in the pond's "belly' during the first year or two unless the pond gets lots of nutrient or fertilizer inputs which cause abundant plant growth.

We can answer questions that you have.

IMO in the long term you will be better pleased if you make more of the bottom 10-12ft instead of 5 ft. All your weed problems will occur in the 0-6ft depths esp if the pond has fairly clear water (visibilities 3-5ft). One centrally placed diffuser can adequately mix your 0.4ac pond if the pond is round, square, or an oblate circle. the more the pond deviates from the circle shape the more it needs a second diffuser (bubbler) to adequately mix all areas of outcroppings, bays, bulges, or fingers.

If I don't do the 5ft deep areas will the fish still spawn with out the shallow bedding area? Your suggestion would be to go straight to 10-12 ft deep throughout the whole pond?