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Joined: Mar 2013
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I have been bad. I mean I have been really really bad.
I have used herbicides.

But that is in my past, and I am now in the process of rehab. I have a shallow 2 acre pond that is supplied only with runoff from a neighboring ag farm field. So algae (FA) has always been a big problem. I have used copper sulfate also, and where it has been somewhat effective in the past, I am worried about using it now because I added Amurs to the pond 2 yrs ago. They are alive and well and I need them to stay that way.

I do also aerate, but it is difficult to get enough aeration in a shallow pond of this size with no fresh water flow.
Is lime a good idea for a pond with fish and how will it affect the downstream area? Can you tell me what PH level I should be aiming for?

I do rake the algae, and rake, and rake, but it is still winning. All advice welcome and appreciated.

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How about Tilapia. They last only a summer, but is a natural/organic way to go .

There are alot of good experts here on aeration. Seems like it would be possible to get good results. You probably just haven't talked with the right people yet.

Edit--Tilapia would be for the algae control.

Last edited by fish n chips; 03/12/13 06:42 PM.
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Ideal pH is around 6.5-7.0. Tilapia are legal in Ohio and they eat algae.

I've used both Tilapia and algaecides in the same pond at the same time.

How shallow is your pond?

Chelated copper products don't affect Amurs if applied according to the label.


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Think about getting beneficial vegetation established - once your FA is gone those nutrients will be utilized by something - most likely planktonic algae which can cause issues in the summer unless aerated.

There are many beneficial types of vegetation that will help utilize nutrients and prevent FA from establishing. Many pondweed cultivars, lillies, sedges, etc. can provide great habitat for your fish, are easy to fish through, and will help prevent FA.

I have very little FA on any of my ponds because my pondweed and submergent vegetation [sedges and arrowhead]tie up all available nutrients. Establishing beneficial vegetation is the ultimate organic approach to controlling FA.


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Thank you very much for your excellent advice.

I only struggle with FA in the spring because once the soggy spring is over I can get my jetski on the pond and you can't beat that for aeration.

I've been chem free for 2 yrs now but last year my dam leak got worse and we had a record hot dry summer and I didn't have enough water to jetski after mid July. So it's baaaack. Add a sunnier January-February than normal and BLOOM!

And I don't want to kill the good stuff, like you said. I also don't want my Amurs getting HUGE.
I like the idea of your sedges. I am very wary of adding cultivars. Lilly pads have conquered every other pond around here completely--those are very troublesome for alot of folks. Have you been to Lake Hope lately? The whole east end of it is now a Lilly Pad.
Thank you again and I will keep researching.

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Your long term plan should be to rebuild the pond maybe even make it smaller but deeper with steep sides and divert the agri-runoff. Things will only get worse as the pond ages - Natures Way. That is what age does to ponds and peopls.


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Pondpuppy I hate to use herbicides if I don't have to and strive to have a natural pond. My objective has been to have as much submerged plants and lilies to help prevent algae without chocking the pond and to add oxygen. So with this approach I try to add just enough GC, amur, to control excessive growth but not to many to adversely effect the oxygen and structure for the fish. My amur grew to over 3 feet and maybe 30 lbs. and eating abilities seemed to be the same as when they were small. They may eat less as they get bigger per pound but still eat as much total vegetation as when they were young to fuel those big bodies, in my opinion.

Tilapia would seem a good solution for algae control, since they don't muddy the pond but replacing them every year in colder climates is the down side. Israeli Carp & KOI worked for me but the down side is more turbid water, and I think you would want bass to control the off springs.



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