So I have a number of related topic questions regarding aerators and components. A couple of dumb questions to make sure I look stupid as well.
For assumptions, assume a 1 to 1.5 acre size pond that requires two or maybe three aeration points in the pond. Depth of pond is 7 to 10 feet. Location is at 5,000 feet of elevation in Northern Nevada near Lake Tahoe. So winters are a consideration. The pond can freeze up on top with snow. The pond has artesian well and spring overflow, so the surface doesn't freeze completely. Fish are LMB and cat fish. Blue Gill will be added in the future.
Is there a consensus of opinions on what the best compressor design is, for use in a pond aeration system? Piston type or rotary vane or ? I'm not sure what a "rocking piston" style compressor is unless this is a normal piston type compressor.
Is there a reason for not using a commercial large compressor for air supply? Would a 5 hp 80 gallon twin cylinder air compressor for pneumatic tools and woodworking gear work? It produces over 125 psi of air pressure and 90 CFM as needed. Would a regulated and filtered output line act as a source of air for an aeration system? Or is there a concern about contaminants in the air that would make a regular air compressor undesirable? Or is this type of compressor too powerful for membrane style aeration units? The compressor is online all the time, so if it runs every now and then, it wouldn't be a bother to anyone. It is also housed in barn/shop and there wouldn't be any noise concerns out near the pond.
Remote position for compressor location - Is there a problem with using longer lines (200 feet) to pipe air before the airlines go into the pond? Would it matter if the line is rubber or perhaps PVC/schedule 40 piping? The lines would be buried. Would it matter if this is an aeration type compressor like a rotary vane or a large commercial compressor? In general, PVC/schedule 40 is not desirable for high pressure distribution. But if the lines are regulated down, they would probably be safe to use.
Is there a consensus on the various membrane disk aeration components? As an example, is there a performance difference between Vertex and EDI disk units? Is Vertex more reliable? Or does it perform better than EDI or generic membrane disk diffusers? Are there other makers of membrane disks that are comparable?
What about the performance of cylinder style membrane diffusers? Do they work as well as disk diffusers?
I've gathered that the ceramic stone diffusers are not as reliable or perform as well as the membrane style diffusers. Is that correct?
If some areas of a pond are very shallow, like 3 to 5 feet seasonally, does membrane aeration work? Or would fountains be a better choice for these areas?
I'm sure I've over looked additional questions or observations. So feel free to comment. I'm trying to learn and come up to speed as quickly as possible.
I'll let the pros handle most of this but here is a little help... A shop compressor is probably a poor choice for several reasons. At 125 psi that is way more than you need. Water pressure developed at something like .45 ish psi per foot of depth, so at 10 feet deep you only need 5 psi to overcome the water pressure to be able to move the air. A shop compressed is also probably not designed to run for extremely long periods of time and will likely burn out or break quickly and often. Not to mention it probably cost a lot to run all day. A compressor for aeration needs to be low maintenance, highly energy efficient, and fairly low pressure by comparison to a shop compressor. An aeration system will be great for the cold winter because it can keep a section of your pond from freezing over. Buried PVC is ok for your aeration system but it makes for an aeration system that is going to be hard to service if a problem arises. If you use weighted line then you just drop it in and if it ever n needs to be pulled up it is easy. You won't be able to do that if you have buried PVC and unburied PVC will float.
I'll let the pros handle most of this but here is a little help... A shop compressor is probably a poor choice for several reasons. At 125 psi that is way more than you need. Water pressure developed at something like .45 ish psi per foot of depth, so at 10 feet deep you only need 5 psi to overcome the water pressure to be able to move the air. A shop compressed is also probably not designed to run for extremely long periods of time and will likely burn out or break quickly and often. Not to mention it probably cost a lot to run all day. A compressor for aeration needs to be low maintenance, highly energy efficient, and fairly low pressure by comparison to a shop compressor. An aeration system will be great for the cold winter because it can keep a section of your pond from freezing over. Buried PVC is ok for your aeration system but it makes for an aeration system that is going to be hard to service if a problem arises. If you use weighted line then you just drop it in and if it ever n needs to be pulled up it is easy. You won't be able to do that if you have buried PVC and unburied PVC will float.
I see your point with the commercial air compressor as being overkill. But it could also be that it would hardly run with so little amount of air being used by an aeration system. Regarding the PVC, that would only be used if the compressor were located away from the pond. So there would be 200 feet of buried pvc to the pond, then weighted line in the pond. This would keep electrical service closer to the service panel instead of providing pond side electrical.
What are all of the readers using for their aeration systems? Having a pros opinion is welcomed, but I'd like to hear what others are using and to share their opinions.
I use a Gast 3/4 hp compressor. Very reliable. I have 1/4 hp Gast on my aerobic (septic) and it has run forever 24/7 with just vanes being replaced. Also have 230 v at the dock where the aeration system is.
Having just been thru this exact scenario of how and what do you do for aeration I'll tell you what I did for my ponds. I have two ponds that are both about 1/2acre in size. Deepest depths are 12' in one and 10' in the other. Like you, I had a ton of questions so you are definitely in the right place for help.
After reading alot about different types of aeration the thing that stood out to me as being the most efficient and beneficial was a bottom diffuser system. I shopped online for weeks maybe even months trying to find a way to build one myself and save a bunch of money. All I accomplished was simply get my head spinning.
After more reading, probably the most important thing in my opinion is what are you using to move the air. From what I learned you need an oiless continuous duty rated pump just like Jevans stated. It will cost less to run, it's easier to service, and best suited for this type of application. My pump is a Brookwood 1/3hp piston compressor. Picked it up at a very reasonable price used and rebuilt from a reputable dealer of complete systems. This pump is rated 4.65cfm which is sufficient to provide the right airflow for me thru two 100ft runs of weighted air tubing. One run to each pond. I can even add a third line if needed.
To save money, I built my own manifold and box to house the pump. A little thought and some mechanical/building ability you can cut out some of the cost this way but it takes your labor and time. Something you'll need to weigh out benefit wise for your particular situation.
For the diffuser, I put one dual air station from Vertex in each pond. After everything I read, they seem to have a very sound approach to their product as well as good warranty and support. Smaller bubbles=Better.
I'm pretty sure your elevation will play a role in your pump sizing but a pro on here can definitely help you with that. Don't mean to sound like I'm pushin anything on you but Ted at Forever Green REALLY helped me understand this stuff when I decided that was the product and route I wanted to take.
You won't regret putting in a properly set up system, it really does make a difference.
Check out this link this is the system I put in and have great success with it. My pond is about 1 acre and about 8 or 9 feet deep. Another member on this forum used this same system though in 15 feet of water. Diffusers set at about 12 feet.
I have about 350 bucks in it. Here is a quick list of what I have.
Eco Plus 7 pump. 75 feet of 5/8 th inch weighted hose from Ted Lea. Self made base from the side of a computer and PVC spliting off 3 ways. Weighted down with 4 forklift wheel bearings. 3 9 inch fine bubble diffusers from diffuser express. They work great. Here are a few other pics.
Why do you think you need air in 3 different spots? Is your pond that oddly shaped? Just asking?
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
RC51 you mentioned when you started your system that you did not smell anything. You were expecting a horrible sulfur smell. Why? Is this a normal occurrence - smelling sulfur? I have not heard or read anything like a sulfur smell with aeration systems. Am I missing something?
The current pond project basically is two ponds in one. One has an island in the middle that when the water levels drop during the summer when local cattle ranchers are pumping from their wells. When that happens, this pond gets cut into two sections. One section is about 7 to 8 feet deep. The section that gets cut off is only about 3 to 4 feet deep after the water levels drop. The other pond is basically separate with a connecting channel to the other pond. So it really is "one" pond, but for aeration, it really is two ponds.
Tranquility, you were able to purchase just the diffusers from Vertex? I thought they just sold whole systems. I do like their products from what I've read so far. Do you know what manufacturer of motors/pumps they use?
For this project, I'm getting my feet wet. So I'm asking lots of questions so that I don't have to come back and re do an entire system at an extra expense. It is kind of like measure twice, cut once. I usually over engineer or over think my work. But that is how I do things.
DJ, I'd look into getting the whole system from Vertex. When buying from them, not only are you getting the system, you are getting the people at Vertex too. You tell them the size and depth of your pond, and the location. Sue will print out a map of your pond showing you where to place the diffusers, and figure out what system will fit your needs the best. The system comes with everything you need, just drop the cabinet (compressor) in place, lay out the hoses, fill the diffuser box with gravel, attach the hoses to the compressor & diffusers and place in the pond. They have a 2 year compressor and 5 year diffuser warranty.
Yeah my pond is over 65 years old and has a LOT of muck in it and it has not been disturbed in a long time.
That sulfurous smell that finds its way around ponds is a common byproduct of a pond that is not aerated.
Non-aerated ponds stratify (layers in the pond have distinguished temperature differences) in the summer and winter, locking the bottom layer of water away for months. With no circulation, the oxygen is quickly used up down there, resulting in an anaerobic (functioning without oxygen) digestion process that is loosely equivalent to that of a cow’s stomach. Slow-moving anaerobic bacteria on the bottom use enzymes to ferment and digest the muck on the bottom. These bacteria produce waste products including carbon dioxide and hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell).
Most of the year, an un-aerated pond will smell fine because this buildup of nasty gasses stays locked away on the bottom. It is when the pond turns over (Spring/Fall temperature shift, strong weather event, etc.) that the foul-smelling gasses are released. Surprisingly, the foul smell is the least of the pond’s problems at this point. The release of this gas also signals that the inhospitable water that was stuck underneath has now mixed into the upper part where your fish are living. Wacky pH shifts, dissolved oxygen crashes, and algae blooms are a few of the byproducts of turnover, all of which have fish-kill potential.
The solution? Aerate like it’s your job! An Aeration System will keep the pond in a permanent state of motion, continuously venting gasses and providing oxygen to the bottom sediments. This allows the aerobic (good, oxygen loving) bacteria in the pond to inhabit the bottom sediments and work away at that ugly muck layer. Aerobic bacteria work similarly to plants in that that they use up the bad gasses and muck, and give off a little oxygen in return while working much more quickly than their anaerobic (cow’s stomach) counterparts. I have been supplementing these bacteria with MuckAway bacteria that will accelerate the decomposition process. Remember, keep that pond moving to keep that pond healthy and odor free! Good Luck!!
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
I did purchase two complete air stations(base and disks) from a Vertex dealer.(Ted at Forever Green) I also purchased their weighted airline.
It just so happened that the dealer had a used and rebuilt pump for sale at that time also which allowed me to get the 3 main components of a system all in one place. I plan on adding a third diffuser station next spring so I do know that they can be purchased independently of a complete system.
I still had to supply my own manifold, housing box, pressure gauge, and ball valves, etc. but I came in cheaper than if I had purchased the pre fabbed system by Vertex. Still had alot of time invested in it to get it working though. Budget wise for me I was able to get the pump, air stations, and weighted tubing from a normal Vertex system and then build it or DIY the thing within a price I could afford. I can tell you that my housing box isn't nearly as pretty as the Vertex box...
I am not sure exactly what pumps they offer in their complete systems. Mine was a Brookwood that I believe came in on a trade in thru that dealer when a customer upgraded their pump. I think they use Brookwood pumps in the prebuilt systems from Vertex but maybe Ted or Sue can chime in on this.
The Vertex system that I installed a month + ago used a Gast compressor. I think it depends on the amount of air needed, and the depth of the diffusers.
A lot of this depends on your pocket book as well. If money is no object then go out and get a whole system from any name brand place you like. If your like me though and want the best bang for your buck and something funtional as well. Well I'm just saying that's all... Good luck with what you do. Keep us posted.
The only difference between a rut and a Grave is the depth. So get up get out of that rut and get moving!! Time to work!!
In this day and age, everything is about the money. No one can just write a check - unless your last name is Trump. But even he'd work out a deal without costing him a cent. I sent Sue an email with photos and additional information. I haven't heard back from her yet. I suspect to hear from her soon.
That is a great step in the right direction DLJ. I'm sure you will get alot of great info from here and Sue. It's alot to take in but it will make sense the more you learn about it. I'll try an upload some pics of my system so you can see how I put mine together.
TQ looks like a beautiful spot you have there. You did a wonderful job with your air station too. Looks very professional. Do you get winter snow? Or is rain your only concern?
Thanks DLJ. We get some snow each year but usually a few inches here and there and a good storm that may dump 10-12" once. Occasionally the ponds will ice over but it lasts a very short time before the ice breaks up. In a normal year which seems to be less common these days, up thru Dec it is usually pretty decent weather, some snow and temps in the 30's for highs. Snow usually doesn't stick around long. Jan and Feb get colder and more snow but usually it isn't bad. Weather tends to break toward mid March and then we get rain rain rain.
