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Jan 10th, 2023
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Joined: May 2009
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OP
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What is the best way to control them. They grow soooo fast and it is hard to kill them off. I have got the chainsaw out and cut em, but they seem to grow back quite rapidly.
Also, If they are growing on the dam, will that affect the integrity of the dam. I know they say tree roots can cause leaks, but they are not true trees.
Derek Chance
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Here are a couple of links for you.. Willows and Ponds Willow trees, yuk!
JHAP
~~~~~~~~~~
"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives."
...Hedley Lamarr (that's Hedley not Hedy)
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 121
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Sep 2005
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Those are great links I have another suggestion.
Imazypr is a great product. It controls a lot of emergent aquatic vegetation. Including willows. A great management effort is to cut down willow tree and basically paint on imazypr on tree stump. That will help manage your willow trees.
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Joined: May 2009
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thanks for the help. Ihave been cutting them as clost to the root as possible with a saw, but they seem to keep reemerging. If chemical is the best way, I want to be sure to protect fish, frogs, etc. Looks like the 2-4-D???(is that what it is?) looks like a good option? Can you get that stuff at an MFA or something?
Derek Chance
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Joined: Sep 2005
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Imazapyr is actual herbicide name. You may have to find a herbicide dealer to buy it. Not sure how readily available it is. When you use imazapyr on stumps it will prevent re sprouting.
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Thanks for the info. I need to find some. While I like the way that the willow looks on the island, I believe it's worn out it's welcome by trying to grow little willows on the Western shore of the pond. It seems every day I can go out there and pull 10 to 20 willow trees that are 12"-24" tall. Lots of seeds must have been spread this Spring, as that shore is 100' to 150' from the tree.
Can I drill holes in the tree at a downward angle, and fill up the holes with Imazapyr to kill the tree? It'll be a big mess to cut it down and get it out of the water - a lot easier if I do it in winter when the pond is frozen.
Now I just gotta try and figure out what to put on the island in it's place.
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Joined: May 2008
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Remedy applied basal will work. 25% Remedy in 75% diesel or basal oil. I like to do it in dead of winter. you apply to bark 15 to 20 inches from base up.
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When i was doing subcontract work getting through college i worked for a landscaper that hated willows to no end. He developed a system that he swore by, although I can't guarantee that it works (i work in an office now and haven't kept up with the old clients, graduation is a wonderful thing).
Cut the stump with approx 1" above ground, and use the chainsaw to draw hash marks into the exposed surface (like a waffle pattern), then take a bottle of muratic acid and (WEARING GLOVES!!!) dribble a bit on the waffle pattern across the top. It should* stunt the tree from every growing back in the same place again, and eventually cause the roots to rot out.
The way i understand it, Muratic acid nullifies when it hits the soil, doesn't it? so it should be fairly harmless...and i mean we are talking maybe 2 tablespoons for a 6" diameter stump, and it shouldn't flow over, just be patient and allow it to soak into those hash marks.
Last edited by skinnybass; 08/17/10 03:45 PM.
Trying to help with 7.5 Acres in the Chain of Lakes Illinois
- -
The fish would stay out of trouble if it could just keep its fool mouth shut.
Turns out there is a lot I should be learning from the fish.
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Remedy applied basal will work. 25% Remedy in 75% diesel or basal oil. I like to do it in dead of winter. you apply to bark 15 to 20 inches from base up. Wouldn't girddling the tree and spraying pathway into the cut also kill it. Pathway is available in small quantities and easily found. This has done a great job on most trees on my farm that where removed in the name of TSI. Uven the maple that got spray and griddled three time finally bite the dust (a strong wind blow it over).
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Wouldn't girddling the tree and spraying pathway into the cut also kill it. Pathway is available in small quantities and easily found.
I'm have no credentials in this area. But, in recent years, I've taken a number of silviculture (mostly forestry) classes and other agriculturally related classes. I'm fairly familiar with what is out there. First, there are an incredible number of different types of willows in the US. Many are not native. Not all respond the same way. I'm not sure that Pathway will control most willow. I'll do a little more digging and post more later. As for imazypr (aka Arsenal, Assault, Chopper), it is extremely effective. It will take care of your willows. Unfortunately, it is also extremely deadly to more than just the plants you are trying to eliminate. If you choose to use it, use it very sparingly and very carefully. It is deadly to everything -- trees, plants, animals, especially fish, and the soil. In the soil, it spreads very quickly over a wide range, and to extreme depths. It will be very toxic to critters that might happen to lick or chew the stump you apply it to. It can stay in this active state for more than a year. I'd suggest you take a cutting of what you have to your state Extension Service office. Explain your situation and its location related to your pond. I'm currently trying to figure out what I'm going to do with a large willow (about 10" dbh) at the bottom of my dam that has partially fallen over after several major storms. I plan on cutting it in the next couple of days. I'm just not sure what I'm going to do after that. More suggestions and ideas would be greatly appreciated by me. Ken
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I treat invasive willows with Roundup (especially for woody plants) and it kills them dead in their tracks.
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Not a willow but....I've used Roundup to kill pesky Box Elder stumps. I drill several holes 2" apart and maybe 2" deep all over the top of the stump and put Roundup in, I used the strongest concentration mixing instructions and it worked good. I'd try this first.
I've never had a willow tree before but I've always wanted one so I planted a salix babylonica (Napoleon, a large variety) about 75' from my pond, I hope I don't regret it. I'm astonished by the rate of growth.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 135
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 135 |
Remedy applied basal will work. 25% Remedy in 75% diesel or basal oil. I like to do it in dead of winter. you apply to bark 15 to 20 inches from base up. Wouldn't girddling the tree and spraying pathway into the cut also kill it. Pathway is available in small quantities and easily found. This has done a great job on most trees on my farm that where removed in the name of TSI. Uven the maple that got spray and griddled three time finally bite the dust (a strong wind blow it over). Yes that will also do the job
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 135
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 135 |
Wouldn't girddling the tree and spraying pathway into the cut also kill it. Pathway is available in small quantities and easily found.
I'm have no credentials in this area. But, in recent years, I've taken a number of silviculture (mostly forestry) classes and other agriculturally related classes. I'm fairly familiar with what is out there. First, there are an incredible number of different types of willows in the US. Many are not native. Not all respond the same way. I'm not sure that Pathway will control most willow. I'll do a little more digging and post more later. As for imazypr (aka Arsenal, Assault, Chopper), it is extremely effective. It will take care of your willows. Unfortunately, it is also extremely deadly to more than just the plants you are trying to eliminate. If you choose to use it, use it very sparingly and very carefully. It is deadly to everything -- trees, plants, animals, especially fish, and the soil. In the soil, it spreads very quickly over a wide range, and to extreme depths. It will be very toxic to critters that might happen to lick or chew the stump you apply it to. It can stay in this active state for more than a year. I'd suggest you take a cutting of what you have to your state Extension Service office. Explain your situation and its location related to your pond. I'm currently trying to figure out what I'm going to do with a large willow (about 10" dbh) at the bottom of my dam that has partially fallen over after several major storms. I plan on cutting it in the next couple of days. I'm just not sure what I'm going to do after that. More suggestions and ideas would be greatly appreciated by me. Ken Ive beeen in the business 30 years and arsenal scares me enough I wont use it. In the hands of the uninitiated it can do some really bad things.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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Just a note about how hard it is to get rid of willow . . .
My pond is down about 18 inches. That's the lowest it's been a number of years. About two years ago after a large storm, there was a huge willow branch (about 4-inch diameter) laying near the pond. I pushed it out into the pond as far as it would go to use as more structure. It floated for awhile, and finally sunk. With the pond as low as it is right now, some of its branches are sticking out of the water. They've got leaves growing on them!
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Jeez Ken, that ought to be enough to scare anyone off from planting a willow near a pond.
JHAP
~~~~~~~~~~
"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives."
...Hedley Lamarr (that's Hedley not Hedy)
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