Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Leaking Standpipe

Hello, I am a 1 year subscriber and this is my first post.
I have a 1/3 acre pond that tapers down to 10 feet deep at the wooden standpipe.This winter the ice appears to have put enough pressure on the structure to bust it loose from the 16" metal culvert pipe it is married to,causing a leak that is exceeding my inflow enough to drop the water level down to 5 feet.Concrete was poured behind the wooden wing walls and around the backside of the pipe.The pressure of the water has pushed the two butted 2"x12" back wall of the pipe away from the concrete(looks like about 1-2 inches) allowing water to pass around the swirls in the pipe.
My first question is there any material that can be poured down the back of the standpipe directly over the leak to stop the flow?I know this might not work,but my next option is to completely drain it and lose all my fish.
If draining it is the only option,what would you recommend as a repair/replacement of said standpipe.A top drain is an option,but I worry about a gullywasher eating away my dam.

Welcome to Pond Boss, LBB. Hang on and one of the experts should be along to answer your question. Thanks for posting on the forums.

Thanks for the welcome.I have been a lurker for quite awhile and have learned a lot from the magazine and the forums.This is a great gathering place for people that seek to improve their properties for their own use and future users.When like minds come together the end result is greater than the pieces that make it.

Hey LB Brad...welcome.
This one defo needs some pics. I don't recall ever seeing (or knowing that I was looking at) a wooden standpipe.

Very interesting...

LaidBackBrad, I too welcome you to the forum, and as Brettski said pictures would be great to help the pond experts give you good advice. Good Luck.

What area of the great upstate are you located ?

I will get down to the pond and take some pictures,but the part of interest is still under 5 feet of water.The pipe consists of 4- 12 foot 2"x12"s.The back of the pipe is made by butting 2 together and attaching with 2"x4" cleats .the 2 other boards are at right angles to make up the sides.24" 2"x6" tongue and groove boards are added to the front to raise or lower the water level.Two 8 foot long 4 foot high wing walls extend out at 45 degree angles from the bottom to stabilize the structure.A hole the size of the pipe is cut about 6" from the bottom of the back wall and slide over the pipe and peened over.Concrete was poured around the back of the pipe and then backfilled with a couple of feet of fill.That appears to be the source of the leak.This type of standpipe is common here in Herkimer County,some are still in use that are over 50 years old.Hope this description helps.

I have a picture taken when the pond was being built.I scanned it and uploaded it to Photobucket.com.I am following the instructions on your site and get to the"right click and copy",but all right click does is give me"settings".I also don't see the url button next to the "gremlins"in the instructions for pasting.I am sure that I am overlooking something.Please have patience with a beginner.

This is what it looked like 18 years ago

Laidback it is easy. Simple place your mouse on the picture in your photobucket account. A small window will appear below the picture. See example below. Pick in the the box that says "IMG CODE" and copy and paste that into your thread. Hope this helps Good luck.

Nevermind you have it, maybe this will help someone else having picture problems.

Thanks,I struggled thru it,best way to learn

I was able to stand on the ice a week ago and peer down the pipe.
It appears the to have given way right around the hole for the pipe leaving a 1" gap between the backside of the boards and the concrete poured around it.I was hoping that there was some miracle "fix-a-flat" type of material that could be poured down the backside and get sucked into the leak and seal it,but that would be to easy.

Brad, I'm trying to vision the problem, other than draining the pond, maybe drop small fabric bags filled with sand or dirt down the separation and maybe it would pack around the opening. Hopefully the experts will comment.
I sent you a PM.

Brad, another possible option put an elbow and stand pipe on the outlet pipe, similar to this diagram in figure 1.
http://www.clemson.edu/psapublishing/pages/AFW/AFW1.PDF
Here's another, last diagram.
http://www.lsuagcenter.com/NR/rdonlyres/...onstruction.pdf

Those are some interesting options.I just got back from the pond and took the following picture




I need another day or so till the ice is off.I am going to try dropping a few buckets of clay directly down the back and see if it gets sucked through or starts to clog it.Figure it can't hurt.

Here is a picture of my pride and joy in happier times

Hopefully you can fix it without draining, I had a pond book that mentioned putting an elbow and standpipe on the outside of the dam and controlling the level by swiveling the standpipe and elbow up or down.
Really pretty pond, is the pond in 2 sections?
What kinds of fish do you have?

There is a small settling pond above the main one with a top drain over the dam.I had a nice batch of yellow perch growing and a few 18" large mouths for crowd control.I couldn't see any today so I am a bit worried(Then again I didn't see any dead ones)
While I am showing it off here is a picture of the Adirondack lean-to I built over looking it.

Man, that's a first class lean-to and fireplace, probably has a flush toilet and refrigerator.
Is this property for just camping or do you live there also?
Hopefully the cold water will allow the fish to survive the low level till you get it fixed.

It is located 1/2 mile back in the woods right out my back door.My 50 acres is surrounded by another 1000 that are posted and no one is ever in.It is like being in the middle of the Adirondacks and I am 5 miles outside of the Blue Line.

Sounds great, nothing like some privacy.

Love that adirondack!

I will try to get the canoe down to the pond this weekend.I will nail a couple of planks to the top of the wing walls(about 2" underwater)to stand on.Then I will drop my ice fishing camera down the pipe to pinpoint the exact point of the leak.The following picture shows the volume of the leak.



The pipe is 12" not 16"
I will try pouring a few 5 gallon pails of clay directly over the leak and listen.Any change in flow should be audible.I will make up a tamper with a long handle to try and pack it in.Now to go snag an unsuspecting friend to help hold the canoe steady........