My 2 year old, 1/3 acre pond was initally stocked with FHM and HBG. I now need some predators to control the BG. The pond is about 20 miles north of Savannah, GA. I don't want LMB, they probably wouldn't do well in a pond as small as mine. Would a combination of SMB and HSB control the BG population? Maybe some type of catfish?

LMB will work in a 1/3 ac pond. You will not grow trophy bass but they would get bigger than SMB. With the right management you could see LMB at a couple 4 lb, a few 3 lb, several 1.5 to 3 lb and a some 6"-13". This equates to around 35-38 lb of bass in a fertile pond; a doable thing in 1/3 ac. Using LMB or any predator in smaller ponds is all about the goals and proper population management with good forage diversity and numbers.

A strong density of HSB with several SMB would be an interesting predator force to use to control BG. Few have done it, so if you try it keep us advised as to your progress. Worst case it does not work well enough to meet your goals. Then just establish LMB and they will after several years rein supreme to control BG.

Bill, would SMB thrive during a Savannah summer in a 1/3 acre pond?

Flounder would help control them for sure and will not reproduce. head out the coast a catch a few and bring them back with you.

I know of some SMB that are doing well in a farm pond outside Valdosta GA.

Thanks for the reply, Bobby. I didn't know that flounder will acclimate to fresh water. Any special steps needed to acclimate them?

I'm about 30 miles inland from Hilton Head, so it shouldn't be a problem catching some flounder

I think yes. SMB are more tolerant of warm water than most of the literature indicates. Big problem for those in the south is locating smallmouth stockers. Give SMB good DO and they will tolerate well warm water. Be aware that as temperatures rise DO tends to be less when water is considered DO saturated thus there is more potential for DO losses. This could be why SMB have trouble surviving in southern waters - lower water quality not high temperatures.

"Southern Flounder" will I know for a fact, the "summer flounder" I am not 100% on going to zero salinity.

Acclimating is nothing special , just do water changes in the live well replacing it with fresh water. You will need a bubbler running. Be sure to not use city water(chemicals) or water that has been "Softened", Hard water better for some biological reason that is over my head...I just go with it...

I have been playing around with different timing between changes,as a rule of thumb slow is better

I have always done 50% at a time, so basically original salt water they came from , drain 50% add fresh water to refill to original level, then drain 50% refill to original level repeat..

I have found that after the first two it is best to slow down.

(assuming estuary water is at 30 PPT salinity)

50%- wait 4 hours - 15 PPT
50% wait 6-12 twelve hours 7.5 PPT (brackish)

usually try to do the first two changes on the first day so they can do an over night soak after the second 50% you can plan around your days schedule the timing is not exact.


second morning do
50% let it sit all day, while at work or what ever...(3.75 PPT)

50% that night before you settle in for the evening and let it sit all night. how ever long that might be. 1.87 ppt getting real close to freshwater.

you could release them in the pond the following day...with pretty good feeling of success. If you have the time it might be safe to do another 50% and let them soak another 6 hours or something...

if you can, using the pond water they are going into for the last few changes its best.

You could bring fresh water with you so when you leave the boat ramp or fishing spot you can go ahead and add the first 50% change and get the clock started on your ride home.


I we can talk a little if you wanted to give it a shot... its not rocket science.

There are options other than LMB but they take work. In addition to the HSB and SMB you could (because of the pond size) use 1 of several predators to aid in the BG control. You could use 1 FH catfish stocked an about 6-8 inches understanding that you would have to remove it at about 7-8 lbs. Same concept with other known predators as long as they can't reproduce/cross with others present.

Are the offspring of your HBG reverting to a GSF body habitus? Mine did, after 8 years I have fish that are morphologically indistinguishable [by a presbyopic novice like me] from native GSF, and follow GSF behaviors. In this setting, with a more slender, less prolific forage, you might well be able to manage the HBG and their offspring with an initial stocking of multiple adult SMB. You might need to manually remove HBG/F2s larger than the SMB could handle, but I would guess after a couple years and a couple SMB good spawns, and with further regression to the GSF phenotype, you'd have good control.

The SMB won't be able to control native BG, so if you have a mix of native BG and HBG, you'll likely need to go another route.

I completely agree with Bill's comments about water temperature and quality.

Bill, what would you consider "A strong density of HSB" for my 1/3 acre pond?

A strong density of HSB would be at or slightly above the carrying capacity of the pond with LMB. This would be depending on fertility and/or pellet feeding around 60-80 lbs adult weight per acre. Remember this is an experimental use of HSB. Establish the bass first, allow them to get to 10"-14", then add the sunfish/BG. When BG are at 4"-6" and the need thinning of numbers consider at the start by adding a few add stock adult single sex LMB. Track your progress and keep us advised of this interesting predator application.

Others with experience similar to your situation should provide their experiences.