First off, thanks for all the help so far. I have my pond drained way down. I would estimate that there is not more than 2 ft of water left in the deepest spot and an average of around 1.5 ft.

There is about 5000 sqft of surface area.

I have seen information on treating muddy water with lime, but I have not found anything estimating how much hydrate lime is needed to kill off a given volume of water.

Here is what I was planning on doing.
Renting a trash pump. Maybe a 2" pump.
Using a plastic 55 gal drum that I have to mix a slurry of hydrate lime in an then pump it out. (use the trash pump to fill the barrel with water, then use the trash pump to pump the slurry into the pond and stir the pond some as well.

Is that a reasonable plan, and how much hydrate lime should I buy.
Do I need some type of ph test strips to make sure that I get the ph up to a needed level?

Hi Setternut

Many of us have performed the same here on the forum. I suggest pumping down as far as possible as the less water the less lime is needed. I treated about 2500 sq ft water 1' depth and it required 200# lime to achieve PH reading of 11 which is considered lethal. You can buy a meter kit or test strips anywhere they sell pool supplies, probably Wal Mart or a Menards. I purchased mine online IIRC. BH are very hardy - I'd recommend treating then seining or netting the next day, see if you have any survivors. If you do, I'd retreat. In my case I only had YOY BG which are far more susceptible to PH levels than BH I would imagine - so one treatment was enough.

My recommendation would be 10 50# bags of hydrated lime

Pump down as far as possible

Be prepared to retreat if you are netting live BH the next day

Please be sure to protect your skin/eyes as wet hydrated lime is caustic and can cause chemical burns. Didn't happen to me, but has to others. No fun, be safe, take your time.

Please let us know how you do - best of luck!

setternut, great advice from TJ.

I'm not sure where you shop, but IIRC the big orange box store labels their hydrated lime as Type S lime.

Definitely get the test strips and keep adding the hydrated lime until the pH is over 11.

Thanks, this was just the kind of advice I needed.
We have a home depot and a Menards. I am sure I can find some test strips somewhere in town.

Am I on track using the trash pump and a barrel to mix in?

Thanks
Steve

Setternut, I think so. I will tell you a 2" pump will drain a 55 gallon drum PDQ, and require a lot of swapping of the inlet and outlet hoses. I would use something that held as much water as possible. Rainman (Rex), posted on an Alum thread, and used an ibc tote to mix in. I liked that. If you could find a clean used tote, that would probably give you 4-5 times the water volume when mixing the lime and water, and mean less total hose swaps.

I've had some pumps that pulse when running, and a 2-3' piece of 2" pvc screwed to the end of the outlet hose will give you something rigid to hold on to if needed.

pH test strips can be found in most pet stores that sell aquarium supplies, or swimming pool supply places.

Thanks all.

I will get may Hydrate lime bought and a pump rented, and see how it goes.

Need to get it done in the next few weeks, before the spring rains come.

Expect the rental place to charge extra when the pump comes back, snow white from lime. Try a strong vinegar or other milder acid to clean the lime off the pump.

Just completed a project today on 2 acre pond pumped down all bh eradicated

Rainman, thanks for the heads up. The vinegar is a good idea.

Teehjaeh57, did it go pretty smoothly?

Amazingly so. Client pumped for a week only had a few puddles left. Ph hit 12 no surviving bh. First time I'd tried on bh glad to report it worked great.

Have done that before with good results. Will kill many weeds as well. A drawback when using is the alkalinity of the location. Low alkalinity no problem as the lime quickly is dissipated/absorbed. I am not sure of the chemical after effect when the soil has high alkalinity to start. It may take longer to self correct.

Eric, the high pH from Calcium Hydroxide lowers pretty quickly to calcium and calcium carbonate when exposed to carbon dioxide. Even in alkaline water, the pH will drop and total alkalinity could max out, then, any excess mineral will crystalize and precipitate out to the bottom soils.... similar to an excessive ag lime application.

Yes I know that. Question is what effect does it have on the soil (accumulation)? If so it will dissolve back into the water and increase any already high alkalinity. Some locations have too much alkalinity and don't want any more. Just not sure how that works out.

This is the right stuff, correct?

http://www.menards.com/main/building-mat...44445321665.htm


Hope that I don't have to work this weekend and can get the pond work done.

Yes, setternut, that is the right stuff...The orange big box is 2 bucks cheaper.

Be sure to use eye protection and keep a gallon or two of fresh water on hand for rinsing skin and eyes...this stuff is dangerous on caustic chemical burns when wet on pants, sleeves or anyplace that does not dry quickly!

I don't know what effect either. My first inclination would be little effect on existing soils if alkalinity is already very high, since calcium is so abundant to begin with.

Thanks
The Home Depot here doesn't have it in the store.
I picked up a dust mask and goggles. Need a day where the wind is not blowing 30 mph

They might be able to order it and have it delivered to the store for no charge. Talk to the guys at the contractor desk.

Yes.

I was told that any vendor that sold through HD could have non-stocked items delivered to a local store. I use Tommy Docks for pier hardware, and HD ordered several items for me that weren't even offered through their online store.