So this remodel/renovation is getting more and more fun by the minute.

-Issue:
Root intrusion into main branch line

-Solution:
Dig out main branch line in it's entirety and replace with schedule 40 PVC

-Horrible discoveries:
Someone decided to drill 2 - 2 1/2" holes into the top of a 4" line for snaking purposes is my best guess

No adapter going into a septic tank 4" pipe going into a roughly 6" opening = Roots in the septic tank oh joy let's play tug of war.

Buried UF cable in the ditch right where I'm digging...unknown what it is powering but it is not the effluent pump or aerator system.

-Newest issue: 4" steel line coming from under the slab no idea how to connect it securely and prevent roots from demolishing a hub-less rubber connector....

Solution:
Your move pond boss plumbers...Seriously anybody know of a super strong connection of a 4" PVC line to 4" non-threaded steel line?

Attach best way and wrap with a root barrier. Just a thought,also roots can and do get into pvc at joints, hard to believe but they do... New root barriers seem to work



Pat W

DC,
With regards to your 4" steel line / 4" PVC connection:
Lowes and Home Depot do sell elastomer (rubber) sleeves with clamps on both ends in many sizes. Just as long as there is no high pressure or the lines are not too far apart, im thinking that should suffice.
Charlie

I think what Charlie is referring to is a Furnco adapter: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Fernco/N-5yc1vZ4hs . I know its rubber, but whatever you use needs to be watertight.

If that existing line is caste iron, which was the standard around here before PVC, I'd consider replacing it all the way to the house plumbing. Over time, caste iron will accrete, or grow inward, as it accumulates rust and debris until you finally have clogging issues.

The oversized inlet hole in the tank can be filled with hydraulic cement, but you'll first have to get the contents pumped by someone like Roto-Rooter, and get the roots out too. Unless you are looking forward to doing repair work on your septic yourself, it might be a good idea to just hire a septic contractor to fix it all. A contractor can also fill you in on whether or not you'll need a repair permit issued by the local health department.

Those adapters will work fine but the roots will get in unless you use some sealant and or root barrier

Pat

Already played tug a war and got the roots out of the septic tank on a previous day(Oh the joy of that day, was still way cheaper than the $4,000+ estimate to replace the main branch line from two different septic specialists). Was seeing if anyone knew of anything besides a rubber based connection for the steel to PVC. This is just prior to where it enters the slab shallow ditch of about 8" till the top of pipe. No ground freeze issues being in the south don't have to worry about a frost line.

Also these root barriers you guys have been mentioning anyone have a link? I was just going to load a bunch of copper sulfate or something around the area to try and deter the roots from growing in but then thought better of it cause I do not want to prematurely corrode the steel pipe.

I would replace the line to where it is PVC but that would require breaking up the slab due to the fact that it's first main penetration is roughly 20' away.

I have some excess landscaping fabric from a previous project. Was curious if I could make a triple or quadruple layered "cigar" if you will and just wrap it all the way around the pipe till it hits the slab then till it gets out a ways from the house.

Already purchased the rubber connections they just seem so...cheap and unprofessional figured there might be a better alternative for long term.

Also logging out every last tree that is standing and pulling stumps out around the house to a distance of at least 20'. Some of the old growth trees are out around the 40' mark and I know there root system can be up to 3X the size of there canopy, but I just can't stand to part with the shade that they provide and aesthetics.

If there is a better root barrier than landscape fabric cigar idea please, please, please link it. I plan on finishing this project off before the weekend as all the holiday fun and stuff will be getting in the way of real progress after that.

Thank you for the idea's and links so far submitted by the way gentlemen. I'm still young and usually deffer to my elders/more experienced people for their sage wisdom of been there done that got the t-shirt.

Diver
I donk have a link to the root barrier but would think a plumbing supply would carry it. It's a chemical impregnated mesh that keeps roots out. I wouldn't chop the trees out of the area just wrap with the barrier. Roots can go 100 feet from tree or farther so don't kill the shade!


Pat W

DC,
I know the elastomer coupling adapters dont look like much, but I have an off center spliced , septic line at my river place. I have a 4" elastomer coupling adapter that I installed 10 years ago and its still solid. For the few dollars that I spent for it, it has greatly exceeded my expectations. But, like you say, perhaps there is a better solution out there. The adapter is a quick and inexpensive repair.
Charlie

I watched my well guy make a similar connection as to what you are describing. He installed a rubber coupling and then completely wrapped the joint/coupling in hydraulic cement, running the cement up the pipe a couple of inches on each side of the coupling. Looked like a cement coupling covering the rubber coupling. He let the cement setup and then wrapped the whole joint with water barrier tape.

Not sure what the hydraulic cement brought to the party but that is the way he did it.

Alright looks like the rubber wins. I'll install it all tomorrow as my back and arms are killing me from being hunched over in a ditch all day. I'll also look more into this root barrier tonight.

Now to go kill my back and arms cutting down some trees, two hours of daylight left. Still have to clear a path and haul the wood away for my proposed pump house area. I did some the other day at least now I can see the bridge. small battles, big victories.


Old PVC to Steel connection


Trench Warfare/Residential style


Who drills a hole into a line??? (I put the plug in it had a piece of corrugated drainage pipe over it that was it)


Another hole and the broken pipe where the roots got in filled the pipe and broke the edge out.


Temporary fix so I can shower tonight


One of the ponds on the property that I will be working next to this evening


I can see the bridge post finally.

DC,
In Evangeline parish, are you closer to Eunice (south) or to Alexandra (north)?
Charlie

DC
Is this the line out to septic? If yes I would make sure to get all the dips out of it( these cause later clogs. Around here we put pipe in a bed of stabilized sand( bank sand & cement) so pipe stays where u put it .1/8" per ft drop for proper drainage. Nothing but hard work, been there done that

Pat W

Ah, the joys of home/property ownership. My hat's off to you....I admire your jump in and get it done, philosophy. Don't see as much of that as I would like anymore.

Blood and sweat...it's not really yours until you're leaking both all over it.

Sprkplug

Amen to that, I just wish I could do that stuff like I used to being 63 slows you down a bit

Pat W

Nothing wrong with slowing down a bit...I think it's the attitude that counts for a lot.

Bring the cleanout pu to the surface and cover it with pea gravel so it's easily accessible, but out of the sun. Maybe put a small planter around it (shaped like a donut?).

PatYes, I am going to get all the bumps out of the ditch just easier to grade it when there isn't an old hack job of a pipe laying in my way. Got the 7 cubic yards of sand on standby in the front driveway...which hind sight being 20/20 ordering it a little to early was a bad idea as they were able to do same day delivery and now I will have to pressure wash the driveway when I finish this project. Local code is 1/4"-1/8" per foot I'll be aiming for 1/4" till I get the fluid moving at a decent clip, but you can get away with the last 10' going into the septic being level according to the code...I'm probably just going to keep it at a standard run as I do not have an inverter to increase the velocity into the tank to get the grease down passed the first baffle. Since inside the tank it doesn't have the modern piping.(And the space is to small to try retrofitting one.)

Stickem- Closer to Alexandria side

esshup- I like to use irrigation valve box covers but I like the planter and pea gravel idea as well.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_21568-676-107BC_...&facetInfo=

with multiple direction clean outs
http://www.lowes.com/pd_22658-1814-PVC+0...&facetInfo=

I have these irrigation valve boxes identifying all major things on the property that are buried like the main shutoff for my water...which was originally in this strange...I don't even know how to describe it(needless to say it would have been extremely difficult to get it to operate in a pinch) and the picture I removed from my phone. It was like some weird statue thing that was super heavy. Resting on a 12x12 landscape stone for walkways on top of a clay chimney liner...which was then half full of clay from surroundings leaking into this whole strange debacle.

Still haven't found the root barrier fabric all I can find is some plastic looking cones that you would put around a young tree. Or else the steel members that you basically make a wall out of.

Also now a days I don't think it's a matter of people not wanting to jump in and do things on their own. It's a matter of building codes, permits, laws, etc... that intimidates most people from even trying.

Root barrier fabric

http://www.geo-synthetics.com/biobarrier_root_barrier.html

Forget about big box stores, call a plumbing contractor supply place.

Thanks Esshup
Thought you might come to the rescue with info. On the root barrier, kinda like old faithful.
Good job


Pat W

Who, me?

Jack of all trades, master of some. (I try and keep my fingers out of the light sockets tho.....)

Well the new line is in the "landscape fabric cigar" looks good and everything is between a 1/4"-1/8" pitch per foot. Bad news is now it's raining and supposed to rain all day...which is filling up my ditch I have a small 1/3 HP portable pump I may go place in the ditch and run a hose and just turn it on and off to try and keep the water level down some if it get's to out of hand. Tut tut it looks like rain...

When we laid pipe in the ground, (I'm talking heavy clay soil here) we'd surround it with sand then the clay. It made digging it up for any repairs in the future a bit easier.

At least you can dig in the soil. Up here, in another week the ground will be froze solid for probably at least the first 6", maybe more......

So I had a little setback...



This is what happens when you lock in the first 25% of the line with the proper grade...start running out of daylight and you put temporary sand plugs to brace every section (10' apart give or take a foot) to keep the proper grade which had sand underneath around and on top for about 8" thick.

Then you get rain for two straight days preventing you from doing anything but staring in disbelief. while also performing an exercise in futility of trying to pump out your ditch with your little 1/3 HP pump.

So let's see if you all can figure out what happened.

Here's a hint: it has to do with Archimedes principle dealing with buoyancy and the inherent properties of sand.

Guess my lump of coal came early this year. Silver lining at least the water level in the ponds is coming up some .

I am thinking you and Cecil B. should get together....you guys both seem to be trying to corner the market on Murphy's Law!

Can't you just drill holes in the pipe to let out the air?

Now I bet you wish that you would have brought home a bunch of divers weights.......

Okay so it has been raining off and on for...since my last post a day here and there of clear weather but not enough for what I need. The soil is super saturated with water right now making it a quicksand trench.

So I decided to start a different project an indoor one making a coffee table and two end tables. They can be combined into one large square coffee table or any combination you can think of. If y'all want I can make a separate thread of materials cut lengths lessons learned type of deal. I think it's a pretty straight forward project though.


The inspirational design I found online


Mock-up end table no base boards yet


Mock-up end table with base boards

Now for the breakdown, sanding and staining process.

I like it.

Disclaimers:

1. I do a really lousy job of staining.

2. I'm not much of a woodworker. I only buy craft wood to put handles on knife blades that I buy. I do a lot of them and it keeps me out of the pool halls and beer joints.

3. I like the look of natural woods.

OK, since I have admitted that I have no idea what I'm talking about, check out a product called Waterlox. There are a lot of YouTube videos available. It makes grains pop in a way that no other product that I've used does and it is pretty forgiving for a klutz like me.

Okay, so I finished my little wood working project with a few days of setbacks due to the fact I got the flu. But that has now passed.


This is the large coffee table mock-up(With random boards on top was in a hurry preparing for a new years eve party)


Color choices picked out with the help of my lovely girlfriend
(who also learned how to stain)


Finished Coffee Table


Finished Coffee Table and one end table/mini coffee table

So I have one remaining to finish probably get that done sometime today. I have to wait a little bit to make sure the treated lumber that I had to use for the legs doesn't bleed through or otherwise effect the stain adversely then seal it with 2-3 coats of polyurethane.

Total Project cost was around $175 (had to pickup some corner brackets to help stabilize the section of free span where I had to notch for the legs as I assume people will be resting their legs on this lip.)

Very nice and simple...

Looking good.

Excellent Forrest!

Yep, really like it!