I am starting to experience what I hear is a fairly common problem. I am getting bank erosion on the prevailing wind side of my 1 acre pond. I tried hard from the beginning to make the bermuda grow down the sides to the water and I thought I had done a fairly good job but after 5 years, the little waves have worked their way behind the grass, destroying the sloped side, and now the bank is collapsing. I know it's a stretch but is there an inexpensive but aesthetically pleasing fix that anyone has used successfully? I don't particularly want to do old electric poles, cinder blocks, or sandbags if I can help it. I would be willing to spend a little money on a commercial erosion control product if I could install it myself and it didn't take away from the ambiance of the pond.
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i am a rock fan, but that could be pricey.

there are all sorts of erosion mats and blankets one could use, some blend in better than others.

What was the slope of the pond bank before the erosion took place?

dave had the same idea as I do. Rock will do the job and by looking at the pictures they would be easy to place. Often after a year or so the vegetation will cover the rocks and they will be almost hidden.
Same with the blankets they are made to let the grass get growing and hold the soil.

Otto

esshup, the original slope ended up being about 2.8 to 1. As you can see in picture, the erosion has created a little shelf or step. Otto, can blankets be purchased in narrow strips or would something large have to be cut manually? Where can I get something like that? Online research hasn't been successful in finding something that is manageable for a small project like this.

Search for GeoTextile Fabric. Brettski used some in his pond project, but they were the wider pieces.

I've also seen the fabric mats that had grass seed in them to help get grass started quickly on slopes. Don't remember where tho, sorry.

Some soils erode worse than others, but u got what u got when it comes to that. In my experience that step erosion is pretty common, but once it develops it stops eroding any further. The steps tends to act as a wave breaker unless the water level goes higher. From the photos, riprap placed on the step would be the easiest thing. You would have to backfill with clay @ the step to make the erosion mats look good now. In my area a kind of soil called limerock is used as a cheaper substitute for riprap in that situation, but this is somewhat local to West AL prairie soils. That step can serve as a shallow substrate fore aquatic plant growth and , when water levels are high, decent structure for holding bass; so don't be so quick to count it as a problem.

-HH

My post on Emats may help.

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=13172&Number=154903#Post154903


I found erosion mat by contacting someone who worked for the Nebraska Dept of Roads - they use a lot of it in order to protect exposed slopes following bridge/road construction. One can cut the strips as narrow as one needs - just staple it in place.

I personally think rock or riprap would provide a better solution and would also have the benefit of serving as habitat for YOY fish invertibrates and crayfish - but can get expensive in a hurry.

We have the same step on a few areas of our pond, it does leave some shelter for crayfish & frogs, but muskrats also use it as a shelterd run eroding it much more.
I was thinking of using large field stone installed over landscape fabric to keep weeds out, then putting pea stone between grass & stone to make mowing easier. but need a way to stop the rats.

Chain link fencing laid down could keep out the rats?

I have read where someone suggested this, I just thought laying it down the rats could still get under because our pond has a gradual slope.
I thought of digging a trench then putting the fence down about 18 inches, but thats tough! digging in clay!

The mats come in four or eight feet wide rolls.

otto

Google "Turf Reinforcement Mats" TRM's are probably the cheapest and easiest to install.

Rock over geotextile will probably last the longest

Sheet piling is another good option and there are some DIY products out there for a reasonable cost but probably it's the most labor intensive option.

otto my pond has a shallow slope extending out 7 feet then it drops off. I have seen the rats create a channel that starts at the drop off then all the way to the shore. when the algae is present you can't see him use it! Plus i'm afraid the fence will interupt spawning. in the spring the shallows are full of BG & LMB beds

This not a suggestion just an option. The problem we are looking at in the pictures will be hard to improve on. The vegetation that has the bank covered is exactly what we would try to get after the bank is fixed. Rip rap is the only thing that you can use that will not involve a lot of prep work.

Thanks for all the ideas. I think some form of rip rap, probably broken concrete, will be my best bet for longevity. Rock would be pretty but every rock you see in my part of the country is imported, and imported is another word for "expensive". I just don't want to tear the place up again handling that heavy stuff after I've spent 5 years trying to make it look nice. I'll ponder till spring and maybe the problem will go away.

DKFarms

I like your thinking. Especially the ponder till spring.

I have a similar bank and most of my initial weed growth occurred in the water, which I think reduced the erosion a great deal. My banks are a little steeper than yours and are stepped in two, 1 meter increments and the weeds seem to be doing well in that first 1 meter depth.

For the most part the weeds act as a poor mans rip rap.

If the erosion is caused by wave action and/or run off the problem may solve its self, if from ground water rock rip rap maybe the answer.

One question has the water level been low enough for you to see the extend of dam,age?

Rad, there is no specific dam site on the pond. The pond is 1 acre kidney shaped and has a levee surrounding it. No watershed water gets in the pond. Only well and rain water. The water level in the picture is as high as it gets because the bottom-fed overflow keeps it there. I have the water well to keep it topped off and I never let the water level get more than 5 inches below overflow. As for the grass, I was really proud of myself for all the effort it took to train the bermuda to grow down the sides to the water. I thought for sure I had the erosion problem prevented so you can imagine how sick I was when I the first signs of erosion.

DKFarms,
dam,age was a typo I was trying for damage, wondering if you had seen the extend of it. It could be in the 5 inches between low water and grass line. If so maybe you can train the Bermuda to cover that area then bring the water level back up.

The reason I offer that up is because I lived on a pond that had St Augustine that grew into the water and there was no erosion.

I want to repair the erosion on my pond also. I think stones or rip rap would be the best solution for me but I've been hearing that the stones eventually slide into the pond and over the years more stone will be needed. I don't know if this is true or how to get around that. I'll be pumping my pond out soon for renovation.

Vetiver grass can help stop further collapsing of a pond bank. Vetiver grass is a tropical grass originate in India and south east Asia. This grass has a very strong root system. And can grow in a wide range of climatic condition from minus 15 degree to 50 degree Celcius. Virtually It can be grown in every condition.

I would be wary of introducting a non-native grass to the area.

Over time, nature will give a pond bank the required slope.

That is not quite true. If it is directly the dominant wind direction, it will be keep eating away. This creates a shallow shelf over time and fills the pond with silt.

Like Cogongrass. No thanks.

"Virtually can be grown in every condition..."

Sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. Recommend staying away from exotic/invasive species until ample research can be performed on it's potential effects.

I am glad TJ share the same concerns as I do.

This sure came out of the darkest corners of the forum.

Having just put in a number of new ponds, I have used a variety of things to hopefully control erosion. The worst parts, where I can't mow due to wetness and the steep inclines, have been planted with crown vetch. In some places, I've even put in horse radish. The places where I plan to have guests, and maybe even a few campers, now and then, have been planted with various mixes of bluegrass, fescue, and rye. Where water ebbs and flows, I've put in water cress.

It is interesting to see the various views on crown vetch. Some states and researchers love it, others hate it. I already have it on my property on my nearly mile of driveways/roads, and I love it. If it is kept mowed, it doesn't spread. It doesn't spread into forested areas. Yet, it requires virtually no maintenance in areas where it is really needed, and it keeps other noxious things from gaining a foothold. If you buy the inoculated/coated seeds, which are quite expensive (about $70/lb.), it can be put down on nearly anything, including compacted clay -- and it will prosper very quickly.

The top of the dam of our biggest new pond (only 1/4 acre) will be covered with gravel. Because every part of the country seems to use a different method of sizing gravel, I won't even attempt to describe what I plan to do -- other than to say, it will be OK for a D8 Caterpillar or a 40 ton truck to cross the dam, as well and most any wheel chair or motorized cart for the handicapped.

We'll see what happens. Right now, my arms are covered with what I believe is poison ivy, from the cheap straw I put down two days ago over the seed that I spread that day.

Regards,
Ken

We have vetch in a wheat field and provides extra food and nutritional besides wheat. It appears to be very similar to clover in my eyes.

Vetiveria zizanioides is a non-fertile and non-evasive grass. I believe in some certain states in the US start using this grass in several objective including erosion control. Try to find these information in the International Vetiver Network and learn from there.

Cogongrass is Imperata cylindrica. It is noxious weed and totally different from Vetiver grass (Vetiveria zizanioides). The vetiver is not evasive and sterile (non-productive).

http://www.vetiver.org/#VSoverview

This is vetiver grass at about 2 months old.

Vetiver grass were planted just above the highest water level. This picture was taken at about 1 month old.

We're fighting with erosion from rain water and the sea wave too.

This is veti-plug ready to transplant.

To stop further collapsing of a pond bank, vetiver plug can be planted 6 inches above the water level. Fully grown vetiver grass can withstand a partial submerged in the water without any problem. Fully established, vetiver line will perform as a living wall to slow down run-off rain water into a pond. The root system will form a matted wall to strongly hold soil of a pond bank. No further collapsing bank after 2-3 months after installation. Guaranteed.

Good root systems on the plugs!

Perhaps there is a more natural solution. My back yard pond has some vegetation that as established itself from a single flower pot that was purchased from a home center. It is attractive (small white flowers), grows both under and next to water, grows only 18" high and makes a good home for fish, frogs turtles and ducks.

My best attempt to identify this is this:

http://www.parkswholesaleplants.com/spring-plants/stepables/pratia-white-star-creeper/

I think if you spaced some along the shoreline, it would establish itself and stop the erosion without taking over and choking your pond.

This is it? The white star creeper?

DK,

From the pictures it appears that your pond shape allows for maximum "fetch" for every direction of wind. [Wikipedia has a decent entry on fetch.]

Enabling long fetch lengths makes the waves much more powerful (and therefore more erosive), even in your small 1 acre pond. One other solution to your erosion problems would be to minimize the fetch.

One alternative would be to build one or two small "peninsulas" on the eroding side of the pond. Obviously the design would have to enhance rather than degrade the beauty of your pond. However, almost any design would help.

The peninsulas could be narrow jetties lined with rock - which might allow you to buy prettier rock and put it in a much smaller area.

You could also build a wide "lobe" peninsula and keep the shore in grass. With your excellent "grass skills" you could probably get your bermuda to stop the erosion for quite a distance downwind of the peninsula. The upwind side would get pretty beat up, but a higher percentage of your shoreline would look "non-eroded".

To get the most "bang" for your dirt-work buck, the peninsulas would be perpendicular to the shore. However, any angle would provide some wind lee. If (for example) your prevailing wind is from the south, you could build a single peninsula in the middle of the north shore. For all of the times when the wind is more from the southeast, no full energy waves will hit the northwest quadrant of your north shore, due to the peninsula reducing the fetch. Likewise, for the same wind - no full energy waves will hit the northeast quadrant of your north shore, due to the fact that they only have half of the lake or less to build their energy. This may be enough to make your bermuda erosion control sufficient for most of your shoreline.

Finally, the peninsulas also make good places for little people to use as casting sites. When the fish are hitting in 4' of water, they can cast parallel to the shore and keep most of their retrieve in the productive water.

DK,

As usual, my reply was long-winded. Therefore, I will put plan "B" in a second reply.

Installing a breakwater is also an excellent means at reducing wave erosion. Breakwaters are usually quite ugly and utilitarian. However, you have a luxury that most pond owners do not - a relatively stable water surface level.

If your pond usage allows it, you could build an underwater breakwater. You could use the cheapest, ugliest broken cement rip-rap with rebar sticking out, as long as you keep it just below the water surface.

*** Do not use this option if people will ever swim in this area, and it is absolutely forbidden if anyone would ever dive into your pond.

The distance from shore to place your breakwater obviously depends on slope, water clarity, desired fish structures, etc. However, an underwater breakwater would give you the chance of keeping your natural looking grass shoreline intact.

Taweesak,

The veti-plugs look awesome for natural erosion control. Do you start the planting trays from seeds or cuttings? How easy is it to raise from onset in trays to the size in your picture?

I am a geologist, not a plant guy. The habit of the grass looks much like the growth habit of nutsedge we have in Kansas. The nutsedge is quite invasive and hard to kill, but I think it is an entirely different family of plant.

Thanks for the help.

Dear FishinRod,
Vetiver grass is probably getting more interested all over the world. To me it's still not fast enough to help people to protect their environment. You can learn more from www.vetiver.org for all the information about the grass.

Vetiver is not like other grasses. Its root system is not laterally spread but only vertically deep down in to the soil. In most cases, its root can penetrate as deep as 2-5 meters into the soil. The root system can form as an underground wall and hold the soil particle together tightly. The grass will produce tiller tightly and closely together to form an above ground wall to filter sediment from runoff rain water. More importantly this grass is not fertile. It will flower but their seed is not viable in nature. The vetiver is not evasive unlike cogon grass (Imperata cylindrica).

USDA had already approved to use in several states e.g.. Louisiana, Florida etc. It may be more, I'm not sure.

Propagation is pretty easy by tiller separation or cutting. I use peat moss as growing medium. I use forestry seedling tray, which has volume about 100 ml. It will take about 8 weeks to be ready for field transplanting. Remember I'm in Thailand which the temperature range is about 25-37 degree celcius. In your condition it might take more time. One more thing, the vetiver grass can be tolerated from minus 15 to 50 degree celcius. You can also put it float in the water to clear polluted water too.

I have many good pictures about vetiver in my folder in my Facebook account. Please visit me at www.facebook.com/taweesak.klinkong .

Welcome to the club.

Close-up picture of the vetiver root from a propagation tray. Please note the big penetrating root and netted smaller root system.

Shoreline protection. We will see it grow. This is last month at my seaside resort in the south of Thailand. A few year back, we spent a lot of money to protect our shoreline. This is the first step. We will stop the upper section first and then we will go down face to face to the sea. Soon.

Just one vetiver grass line right at the water level can provide a pond bank erosion in about 1-2 months after planting. This is a newly constructed pond's bank.

Cogon grass, the bad guy. Very thick but can't protect. It's the world worst weed!!!!

What temperature (low temp) will the vetiver survive? Or put another way, what temperature kills it?

Let try! According to info I have, they said minus 15. But I think, growing it in spring or summer soon the grass become established it will surving winter.

I completely agree with your statement. I think stones or rip rap would be the best solution for me, but I've been hearing that the stones eventually slide into the pond, and more stones will be needed over the years. But overall, I'm very much confident with my decision.

I'm in a similar situation and have been looking at doing some form of Seawall or Sheet piling for the 75ft directly in front of our house where we mow. However, most sheet piling options are really big and not suitable for small scale ponds or residential use.

The product I feel will work the best for my application is found in the UK and I have been unable to find a source in the US. It's a scaled down solution that could be installed with a mallet or deadblow hammer given our soft soiltype.

Multilok Sheet Piling

Another option I play with is using 4" PVC pipe cut into 18-24" lengths and pounded into the soft clay. I can insert wood down into every 4th or 5th tube and then cap with a composite 2x6 to give the bank a nice finished edge. The pipe will be flush with the high level mark so the tubing itself should not be visible once it's all done.

OCD, many homeowners are getting sheets of plastic interlocking sheet piling. They don't have the nice locking feature or the expanded areas for posts to go in, but they are lightweight and easy to install. Simply get a 2-3' section of 1" PVC and adapt from PVC to garden hose thread. Then put a good supply of water down the 3' pvc at the base of the sheet piling. With water flow and a little pressure or tapping with hand tools the sheet will slip into place. You have several options for capping the top.

Folks I know did about 100 feet in no time at all with 2 guys and no special tools except hammers and garden hose. I'm sure there is an art to getting it to follow a straight line or follow a special curve without looking like a do-it-yourself special when you are done but that separates the pros from the DIY crowd.

Got any links or pics of what they used?
I reached out to several local suppliers and have yet to get a single response back.

We (Dad, a friend and I) did just that back in the late 1970's with I believe 5/16" thick Cor-10 steel "W" piling sheets. They came in IIRC 22' sections, we cut them with an abrasive wheel on a circular saw and washed/pounded them in. We did a 75' seawall in 2 weekends.

Round stones may well end up sliding, but I can say from experience that rip rap has not the last six years.

I did a stretch of eroding bank in rip-rap 6yrs ago, then did the rest of the bank a few weeks ago. In my case it has worked very well. Just wish I had more rock!

The best rip rap is chunks of concrete from a street or something similar being ripped up.