Though I have been thinking about this for a long time (remember
Slave Dog ), this is the beginning of the actual construction phase.
Basic overhead diagram of the project.
The floats are 24”X48”-12” and have 400 pounds of buoyancy each. 2 are for the ramp and 8 are for the barge.
The framing is 2” x 4” 14 gauge steel tubing.
The frame and deck will be coated with
Durabak for weather protection and easy spray down after the inevitable roosting bird dropping scenario and other messes.
Stay tuned for furthur developments.
Looks good!!! I want a floating dock so I can't wait to see it.
Dwight I can't speak for the floatation devices you have but my floater dock was built with plastic barrels. It is 10x10 and has a 4x16 walkout. I didn't put any floatation in the walk out. I see you are going too very wise. My dock sets at a angle until you walk out on it because of the weight of the walk out. If I were to do it again I would have built the dock portion longer to overcome this. As in your case if I was doing it again I would put the 16 ft longways out into the pond and the 8 ft as the width. Besides when the water level drops you'll be in deeper water with the dock long ways. Just my opinion based on my on experience. She looks good keep us posted.
Dwight,
Just a couple of thoughts, though I bet they have already crossed your gunsights.
I presume the ramp will be hinged for vertical changes as the water level varies. Will there be adjustments required at the length of the diagonal stand-off brace since it will be dropping (or rising) at a different rate than the main ramp?
All the tubing ends will have to be welded shut to keep out moisture. I was once told by a trailer manufacturer that this is why channel is preferred for their product.
When I saw your diagram, I did a double take. I am already thinking about a nearly identical design as an addition to the deck we are already working on. Then I start looking at used 18' pontoon boats.
FYI there is another way to stablize the side to side moverment. You can drive pipe down beside the deck and lagbolt a next size dia U-strap around it. I used 1-1/2 galv electrical conduit from lowes with 2 inch straps. The deck slides up and down when water level falls or rises. The pipe sticking up about 3 ft from deck surface makes good rod holders for fishing too.
Party at Dwight's. I'll bring the DMD.
rockytopper – The barge itself can be parked lengthwise or as it is in the diagram.
The ramp is really just a small dock that the barge ties off to when not in use for fishing, hauling stuff around the pond, or just cruising for relaxation. Think of the barge as a sort of pontoon boat. It will have a trolling motor and fishing seats etc.
Brettski – Good comment on open tubing ends being bad news. That is a lesson I learned early on when I worked for my Dad at his machine shop many moons ago.
The diagonal and the ramp itself will be hinged to follow the water level. I plan on them being hinged on the same horizontal and vertical plane so that adjustments of the diagonal shouldn’t be needed. I do have a ball type mount in mind for where the diagonal attaches to the ramp, just in case.
I considered a used pontoon with modifications as well. I wanted to be closer to the water then any pontoon I looked at. That is why I went with the 12 inch high floats instead of something taller.
Your “double take” is further evidence of the “great minds think a like” theory.
Theo Gallus – DMD, Diet Mogan David?
This is my shop where I am building the pond barge.
I built some new shelves because I needed more horizontal surfaces to fill with stuff. Then I decided to do a thorough cleaning and get rid of stuff I hadn’t touched for 10 years or longer. Now I have a ton on horizontal to work with!
Gail said I should have painted the walls, ceiling, and coated the floor. I have little patience for such things, especially in a shop where welding and cutting is a common occurrence.
Here are some photos. Please notice the nice Beer Fridge.
Theo - A glimpse into a man's fridge is a glimpse into his soul.
Now I understand!
Dwight,
What are you going to use for decking material? Have you had any prior experience with Durabak?
Dwight we have a barge (no ramp) much like your pic but with 2x8. Same size. It is very heavy. We can not take it out of the water but that is not a problem for us. We use it for an anchored swim platform out from the pier and as a work barge powered by paddles or trolling motor. Works great for many tasks. Will the ice effect yours or do you plan to pull it out?
Dwight forgive my ignorance I didn't realize it was mobile. Sweet. Please send pic's of the cressoning. On this forum bottled beer is acceptable.
Wow Dwight, great workshop! Two welding rigs, a huge air compressor, hand tools a plenty on peg board no less, a lap top computer, the requisite "box o rags", a fridge. Dang if I lived near you I'd come over to help you with projects just for the right to hang out in your workshop!
Brettski -
midwest brainstormer's trap
They need an eBay ReHab Center to teach us how to avoid these traps! :p
Russ -
What are you going to use for decking material? Have you had any prior experience with Durabak?
I used that treated laminate that they build wood basements out of for a trailer bed. After 20 years, it is still undaunted by the weather. With that proven record, I am planning on using that for the barge decking.
I have seen Durabak used in pickup beds and trailer beds that have had some rough use. It is tough stuff.
ewest –
Dwight we have a barge (no ramp) much like your pic but with 2x8. Same size. It is very heavy. We can not take it out of the water but that is not a problem for us. We use it for an anchored swim platform out from the pier and as a work barge powered by paddles or trolling motor. Works great for many tasks. Will the ice effect yours or do you plan to pull it out?
The circulator/aerator from the “Slave Dog” post will be used to keep it in open water during the winter. The float manufacturer also says the floats are unaffected by being frozen into the ice. I tend to believe that claim since there are a lot of floating docks and fishing piers around here that are frozen in all winter with no apparent negative affect. In any case, I will be using the circulator to keep her in open water.
rockytopper -
Dwight forgive my ignorance I didn't realize it was mobile. Sweet. Please send pic's of the cressoning. On this forum bottled beer is acceptable.
Beer is in the Beer Fridge, though I imagine there will be a few rotated in and out of there before we get to christening day!
Jeffhasapond -
Wow Dwight, great workshop! Two welding rigs, a huge air compressor, hand tools a plenty on peg board no less, a lap top computer, the requisite "box o rags", a fridge. Dang if I lived near you I'd come over to help you with projects just for the right to hang out in your workshop!
Thanks, Jeff.
The shop is 30 years old this year. My friend Tom and I built it and as a first construction project it has a few flaws. It is still standing and fully usable, so I guess we did ok.
Many of the hand tools date back 40 years. Buy high quality tools and with a little care, they will be friends for life!
ewest – Is your barge made with 2x8 wood? I calculated my design as fairly light in weight using 2x4 14 gauge tubing. Do you have a photo?
These are photos of the wave action in the pond barge location with sustained southwest 40-55 mph winds today. A southwest wind is the worst case scenario for wind pressure and wave action against the barge and ramp.
-
According to my calculations 3,000 pounds of concrete holding the three ramp hinge mounts (they are mounted on 2 inch schedule 40 pipe driven 4 feet down into the ground) should be adequate to resist the wind and wave pressure with a 50 mph wind from the southwest.
I plan on using a 2 yards of concrete for the pad/bunker to anchor the three hinge mounts. That is approximately 8,000 pounds of concrete.
I am no engineer, so if there is someone on the forum that has any input on this, I would be grateful to hear from you.
240 feet of rectangular tubing is coming in on Friday.
Up to this point is has been mostly preparations, and oh, I did go fishing UP NORT (Minnesota Speak) for a week.
Check out that life ring that Michele and Paul got me for my birthday.
Dwight sorry. I thought I posted this earlier. That PFD will look good on the "LIFE IS GOOD BARGE ".
Dang, I think those photos are great! I can easily identify the BG and LMB. Nice nests.
Bruce Condello - I am really pleased with the numbers of current year BG and LMB. There are thousands of them. It is impossible (for me anyway)to get a photo of them.
This is what 240 feet of 2”x 4” rectangular tubing looks like in the shop on the floor. It took two weeks to get it here because the 14 gauge wall thickness comes directly from the foundry. Under the tubing lies 100 feet of 1/8” x 6” flat.
Dwight,
You need to organize yourself better. Its hard to see the tubing in such a "dirty" shop.
Whats the next step?
All right Dwight. Stop posting photos of your shop. Now your just rubbing salt in a wound. (In my best Homer Simpson voice) "Dwight's stupid, stupid shop."
This morning I cut the perimeter frame members; two 16 footers and two 8 footers, all 45 degree angle cuts. I squared (very basic squaring) it all up on the saw horses with the 90 degree magnets.
That is where I was going to the leave the project until Monday evening after it cools down some.
Resistance was futile; so squared each corner with corner clamps, C-clamps on a heavy angle iron across the corners and the entire low tech welding guy stuff that I know. Then I tack welded it all together. The diagonal corner to corner disparity is under .125".
It was 94 degrees in the shop when I decided to give it a rest. These are the 5 sweatbands I doused this afternoon.
I better replenish my bodily fluids, and now!!
Better knock down a Coroner, eh?
Another way to make sure it's square is to measure diagnally from corner to corner. When both measurements are exactly the same, it's square.
Are you going to weld it all the way around? I'm just curios about moisture and keeping it out.
It probably doesn't compare, but I just bought a stick of 2x4 tubing with 1/4 inch walls for $100. What does it go for in your area?
Eddie
Bruce Condello - Thanks for the recommendation. I followed it!
eddie_walker - I did mention that, "The diagonal corner to corner disparity is under .125". I will be welding it all the way around. First though, I am just tacking the perimeter frame and cross members.
The tubing I am using is only 14 gauge so there would be a huge diference in price. The whole steel purchase as described earlier in the thread was $700 odd dollars.
Steel, like everything else I buy seems to keep getting most spensive.
Three cross members tacked into position and the remaining eight cut. This would go a lot faster if I didn’t have to work for a living.
Some progress this evening....
Glad to see you are making progress on "The Life is Good" Bremer Barge !!
ewest - I can still lift it, too!
eddie_walker - I can still lay down a lot nicer looking bead with the old stick welder than I can with the wire welder. Is this normal, or am I old and decrepit?
Dwight,
When I bought my welder, I never even considered a wire welder. I learned on an AC arc welder and when I discovered AC/DC arc weleders, there was nothing that compared for the price and versatility. Especialy if you have rural property, tractors and equipment!!!
Nice collection of saw horses. I have four and I'm always tripping over them, but seeing how nice the six do for keeping your platform up and level, I might just get another set.
Thanks for the updates,
Eddie
Dwight,
If you have prior welding experience, I'm surprised you're having trouble making a nice looking bead with the wire welder. You may already know this, but make sure you're using the correct polarity for the wire you're using. I'm assuming you're using flux-core wire since I don't see a shielding gas bottle in the pictures. The leads have to be reversed inside the welder to switch from solid core to flux core. You can weld using the wrong polarity, but it makes a pretty ugly bead.
Dave
A small bottle of 75/25 is pretty cheap and would help a great deal even when using self shielding wire. Solid wire and with gas shielding is where the mig shines otherwise simply using self shielding wire you're basically welding with a very tiny infinetely long stick electrode.
eddie_walker - I agree on the AC/DC welder for repair work. The MIG welder is useful when working with new clean metal and thin sheet and tubing.
When I was a young pup, I would have built the barge on the floor. Now that I have some age on me, I like working on stuff at waste level or so. Live and learn.
D. Helms – My Dad first taught me welding (He owned a Machine Shop) when I was 9 years old. AC/DC stick welders were all that we had in those days.
I first used a MIG welder in a production environment during summer break (1970). That was welding a one inch long bead on a bracket for animal cages. I don’t know how many thousand of those I made that summer, but it was so boring I was excited to get back to college! Until this project, I had not used a MIG welder since that summer.
The polarity is set correctly. I’m not really having a problem. it is just that the stick welder bead is just prettier in my view. Thanks for the tips, though.
Ryan Freeze - I will be picking up a regulator and a tank of 75/25. I like the analogy of the “tiny infinitely long stick electrode”.
Dwight and Eddie,
I don’t know what this welding story has to do with ponds. But it’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
I worked on a pipeline welding crew in Kansas the summer of 1941, and graduated from high school in 1942. I didn’t need to go to college because I already knew everything I needed to know...
After high school I worked on the “big inch” pipeline that provided oil from the East Texas oil fields to the east coast to fuel the ships of war.
I learned to weld...somewhat...
The Army Air Corp formed a unit called the “Air Corp Engineers” and I volunteered.
Because of my experience as a welder, I came out of basic training classified as T-corporal.
I went into the service as an 18 year old know-it-all and came out dumber that a rock...
I went to college - the GI Bill paid me $90 a month – more money than I had ever seen...
By the way, I picked up a torch a couple of years ago and laid the prettiest bead you ever saw...
George1 – We’ve got welders coming out of the ironwork!
There is nothing quite like a nice brazed bead holding two pieces of heavy cast iron together.
I once brazed a trail down to the pond or was that blazed? And yes, there is a
Brazing.com
Originally posted by Dwight:
George1 – We’ve got welders coming out of the ironwork!
I'm not adding my $0.02 worth unless someone needs to repair round bale feeders. That's all the welding I've done for 10 years or so (every Fall).
Geeezzzz the Life is Good Barge has a bumper !! And a place to attach a ramming device !!!
:p
ewest - A propped ramming device on both ends with both facing the same direction for maximum ramming speed.
Originally posted by ewest:
Geeezzzz the Life is Good Barge has a bumper !! And a place to attach a ramming device !!! :p -
-
-
I was thinking more of a trireme, Brettski, but that works too.
Looks like you're making good progress. Another tip: since you planning to get the 75/25 gas I assume you'll eventually be getting some solid wire. You may want to try some SuperArc L-56 made by Lincoln because it outperforms other wires on less than perfectly clean steel. I would also recommend .035" for your machine and general applicability.
Personally, I've have a soft spot for the art of stick welding:
Ryan Freeze - That art is very familiar. Did I see it on Lincoln Electrics website, somewhere?
Dwight: not unless they stole the pic from me! I made the tool to cut out the damaged section of the beam and filler plate out of bits and pieces of buggo and Harris torch parts. It was on one of my bridge repair jobs for ODOT. We run into tears in beams pretty often caused by vehicle impacts.
Here's the fit up
Here's another bridge on the same contract that we straightened
Before:
After:
Ryan Freeze - Wow! Now wonder people get killed in auto accidents. The concept of a torn bridge I-beam never occurred to me.
Maybe I saw your art in another of your posts and that is why it looked familiar.
There will be a delay in pond barge progress as I am, “going up nort fishin”.
Current State:
Crappies were on the rampage “up nort fishin”!
This live-well video was common place the whole week.
Crappie
I finished up tack welding the top side of the barge frame.
It takes a lot of clamps to do this kind of work.
This is the beginnings of the battery box.
Next Steps:
1. Weld up the battery box, drill cooling and drain holes, and mount it between the frame rails near the center of the barge frame.
2. Figure out how to tip the frame over to weld the bottom side. The frame is 8 feet wide and the ceiling is less than that, so I will have to move it outside, tip it over and move it back inside. I may need some help!
3. Tip the frame over again to finish welding the top side.
I am waiting to see the ramming device. Will it be a traditional Greek ram , a civil war era torpedo ram or a set of Texas Longhorn horns.
Looks just great! Look at all that steel!
I'm with ewest. No party barge is complete without Civil War era torpedo spar.
ewest - That will be one of the later additions. This is the basic design.
I have taken the orginal design and incorporated improved structural constuction tecnhiques including an internal titainum space frame. I also added a 750,000 volt inverted nine phase squid ejection system.
bobad - It is a work barge and fishing barge, not a party barge.
There has been a lot of progress and many photos taken. I will post them sometime in the future.
This is welder-grandma Gail
If it keeps growing like it is, how are you going to get it to the pond?
Eddie
eddie_walker - It is in two pieces, the barge itself and the dock portion seperate.
I will admit that both pieces have to be moved outside to flip them over.
All of the Welding is complete on the Pond Barge and Dock frames. Next up, is cleanup, primer and Durabak coating.
¾ “ Marine Plywood and form lumber for the concrete dock mounting pad.
The old bed frame underneath the plywood is the base for a future stake bed structure piece. (Structure is everywhere, you just need imagine it under water!)
You mean you went up Nort fishing before you finished the job ???
ewest -
Priorities:
1. Fishing trips/Vacations.
2. Pond projects.
3. Acreage management.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9. Working for a living.
...I think we might'a found Jimmy Hoffa
Brettski - Good one! You continue to rule as the "Great Warped One" on the forum. Congratulations!
The will never find Jimmy now!
I finished up the dock pier back fill and smoothed out the area.
I'm still not sure I understand what is going on.
Is this going to be a free-floating barge or more like an extened dock?
Regardless, we will need to have a global christening celebration when she hits water.
Lookin' good Dwight. Are you going to send it on it's maiden voyage soon or wait and drag it out on the ice?
Sunil
Is this going to be a free-floating barge or more like an extened dock?
The answer to that question is yes. It will be a large extension to the dock when it is moored and a powered barge when not moored.
The global christening celebration sounds good!
Ryan Freeze
Are you going to send it on it's maiden voyage soon or wait and drag it out on the ice?
The Dock is going in before ice (hopefully). The barge will be under construction during the winter. Installing the deck, wiring, motors, and all the other stuff will take some time. My shop it heated so it will be a fun activity in the dead of winter.
Dock test assembly in progress.
Dock and circulator are about ready.
Ready to load on the trailer for launch tomorrow.
This is a closeup of the Durabak coating.
I have a minor concern but I'm not sure if even applies or if it really matters:
If butting more plywood along the already installed plywood over the exposed frame on the left, skewed side, you will likely get flexing between the two seems. Generally, when using plywood roof sheathing, H-clips are intalled between rafters to reduce the flexing between seams or on floor decks tongue and groove decking is used. Sometimes blocking is installed between floor joists where seams meet too. My primary concern is that over time the plywood will expand slightly as it absorbs moisure and when you walk on it the friction at the seam will cause the plywood to splinter there. My concern may be unjustified because the polyurethane liner in my truck is still like new...after 135,000 miles...tough stuff!
Ready to load the ramp for the trip to the pond with the circulator along for the ride.
All loaded and ready to go.
Ramp installed with the circulator running.
Water temp at the surface is 38 degrees on a 56 degree day
The water depth at the end of the ramp is 50 inches.
The water depth below the circulator is 74 inches.
Pond water level is low for this time of the year.
Dwight did I miss the reason half the dock is not covered ? Looks good just wondering.
I'm confused. What is a circulator and what does it do?
I also don't understand what the purpose of the triangle exposed area is for? Is it bracing? If so, why brace it on the outside instead of on the inside where it would add to the integrity of your plywood decking?
It's hard to tell, but what is the span of your plywood decking over it's mounting points?
This has been allot of fun to follow.
Eddie
Ewest, The part that isn't covered is just bracing. When the barge is connected on the end of the ramp there could be alot of wind/wave pressure against the ramp/barge combination. I wanted an eight foot base rather to four feet to handle the pressure.
I could have covered it, but that would have meant more joists to install and more plywood. A 4 foot wide ramp is wide emough for me.
I'm confused. What is a circulator and what does it do?
I also don't understand what the purpose of the triangle exposed area is for? Is it bracing? If so, why brace it on the outside instead of on the inside where it would add to the integrity of your plywood decking?
It's hard to tell, but what is the span of your plywood decking over it's mounting points?
This has been allot of fun to follow.
Eddie
Eddie,
The circulator prevents ice from forming in the area. It is on an automatic temperature/timer switch. It is set to run when the air temperature is below 25 degrees and only during the night. If there are -20 temperatures for an extended period, then I may set it to run during the daytime as well. Circulators are also used to prevent stratification and for aeration, as well.
There are quite a few discussions about circulators on the Forum. If you do a search for “circulator” you can learn all about them.
You may refer to my last response to ewest to explain my thinking on the diagonal bracing.
The marine plywood is attached to cross members that are 16 inches on center. They are attached with metal to wood adhesive and a bunch of wood to metal self drilling screws.
Dwight,
Thanks, I understand it now. You've gone way beyond my knowledge or understanding of docks, so it's really nice to hear your explinations. The pictures really help too!!!!
Eddie
I see some more problems:
The large open brace compartment is not properly insulated to maintain optimum cooling for your Coronas and the table/cutting board/ fish cleaning station that should be fitted above the middle open section may have difficulty staying level enough to keep precious fluids from spilling from your blender during heavy wave action. However the small compartment does appear to be accurately designed to provide sufficient storage for the proper lime to Corona ratio of 1:6.
When I ask the question I thought for sure Dwight was going to say one was for the built-in cooler , one with a net to hold bait or live fish and one for electronic gear.
OK boys, At least you are thinking right!
Try to remember that this is just the ramp to get to the Barge where all the good stuff is going.
I have been a little disappointed that Sunil didn’t ask about that drain plug.
Did I mention that I have a design in mind for a combination Barge pup and ice fishing cabin?
Dwight, I saw the drain plut and did wonder why you highlighted it. But then again, I don't have the whole picture of what this beast is all about.
Dwight, I saw the drain plut and did wonder why you highlighted it. But then again, I don't have the whole picture of what this beast is all about.
Is a drain
plut east-speak for drain plug?
This is the barge frame (bottom side up) hermetically sealed with smooth Durabak.
This is the approximate location of the floatation units.
I had originally intended to have 3200 pounds of buoyancy (8 floats). Then Gail asked, “what if it doesn’t float? “ Ok then 4800 pounds of buoyancy (12 floats) are good.
You've never heard of a "plut?"
Where have you been all your life???
I was thinking about the ice-hut, but didn't post figuring all these Southerner's wouldn't be able to understand the concept of ice fishing and therefore the need for such a structure. The Southerners think ice fishing is reaching into a cooler for a cold one.
"The Southerners think ice fishin is reaching into a cooler for a cold one."
Ah yes. This is further bolstered by the fact that, when ice fishing, you don't need a cooler. You can just leave your beers sitting out.
Ah yes. This is further bolstered by the fact that, when ice fishing, you don't need a cooler. You can just leave your beers sitting out.
We keep our beer in coolers up here in Minnesota so it doesn't freeze solid. Beer just isn’t the same if it freezes and you thaw it on the exhaust manifold of your vehicle. That activity makes the beer taste like plut!
The floats are mounted to the Barge bottom using 120 of these screw/washer/sealant units of my own design.
I made a pair of very low speed Barge transfer devices out of some 4X4s bolted to four of my (vehicles with tires) dollies.
Tomorrow the Barge will be lifted and flipped over onto the transfer devices and moved to the heated shop for wiring, decking, and etc…..
Plut plut plut.......
We will of course need progress reports on each step - and there will be several prior to completion and launch/christening.
-
Worry not on the the progress reports.
I just wish I could make the reports so Sunil could understand them. Maybe in the end it will all become clear to him. We can hope!
Stick with short words of only one syllable, and LOTS of pictures.
Again, thanks for the updates and pics. It's allot of fun to follow your progress. I take it you plan on spending some time in the heated shop when it's cold out? It's gotten all the way down into the 30's here, and I'm not able to function in those extreme conditions. I really need a heated shop for those days when it gets below 50 outside!!!!
Eddie
Eddie, It was a balmy 37 degrees when I was making the move yesterday. Today the high is forecast to be 18 and the wind is blowing 20-30mph out of the Northwest.
You could probably heat your shop with one of those
Mr Heater ice fishing house heaters at the temperatures you are complaining about.
Eddie,
Seriously, below 50? I thought you were tougher than that. It felt warm yesterday here at 37.
Dwight, nice project, I have loved following it.
I think you should enclose your barge area, something like this. Hrmm... How do I attach a pic? Sorry for my newbieness
Ok, found the post explaining. We will see if this works.
s274.photobucket.com/albums/jj243/tororider/?action=view¤t=FISHINGPontoon.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj243/tororider/FISHINGPontoon.jpg" border="0" alt="Ultimate pontoon"></a>
tororider, just left-click the IMG Post box a few rows under your photobucket image, then insert it into your reply box by pressing "cntrl" and "v" at the same time. This will paste your photobucket IMG to the reply.
Ok, got the link, but I must be missing something with regards to getting the image to actually show in the post, oh well.
Trider, all you need to do is insert the photo URL (which shows in blue in your two posts above) and paste it into the reply box from the photo button (3rd button from the left above the text box on the full reply screen) instead of the link button (1st button on the left above the text).
t-rider,
this is the link you have now:
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj243/tororider/FISHINGPontoon.jpg What you need to do, whether manually or how Bruce or Theo suggest is to have these ( [IMG] [/IMG] ) before and after the same text with no spaces.
So:
[IMG]
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj243/tororider/FISHINGPontoon.jpg [/IMG]
If you remove the spaces, the picture appears in the thread
Got it now, thanks guys.
Well at least everyone can see the ultimate pontoon
I think you should enclose your barge area, something like this.
That is a real nice deck on water!
The Pond Barge is more oriented towards versality of use. Pond work, underwater videoing, fishing, swimming, etc. require a more open approach. "To each his own", applies to Pond Barges as well.
Dwight,
If I was doing one, it would be more like yours, a tank on water. Just funny to see what some other people do. Keep us updated.
"Slave Dog" link restored to the world. Happy New Year!!
It has been bugging me that the first link
Slave Dog in The Pond Barge Saga is a broken one. So I finally fixed it.
I know I am probably the only one who cares, but that was a fun link way back in 04.
Barge progress is slow, but not standing on one leg!
Dual Battery Tray
Two Battery Voltage Meter
Onboard Battery Charger Port
10 Position Fuse Panel
Front Thruster Circuit Breaker
Rear Thruster Circuit Breaker
All-other Circuit Breaker
Front Thruster Plug and Receptacle
Rear Thruster Plug and Receptacle
Rear Thruster Continuous Duty Solenoid
Rear Thruster Solenoid Switch
12 Volt Power Receptacle (Front Panel)
12 Volt Power Receptacle (Front Panel)
12 Volt Power Receptacle (Front on Center Console)
12 Volt Power Receptacle (Front on Center Console)
12 Volt Power Receptacle (Rear on Center Console)
12 Volt Power Receptacle (Rear on Center Console)
Still waiting for:
Main Dual Battery Shut Off Switch
Die Cast Aluminum Panel Boxes
Dwight,
Thanks for the update. Nice to hear you're making progress and not frozen in. It will be fun to see how you put all the parts together.
Eddie
Sunil!!! Where did I just a few days ago see your tagline? (Curl Up and Dye Salon)....I mean, I can picture it, but can't figure out where it was...
Family Guy? Simpsons? One of those things that just flashed across the screeen...almost subliminal.
Matt, Was it this thread?
Curl
It was from The Blues Brothers. They pan in through a salon window and the neon light says Curl Up & Dye Hair Salon.
Of all the times I'd seen the movie, I had never seen that before. It still cracks me up.
1 missing item to go right ?
I think you understand how on-the-fly-engineering works. There is never only 1 missing item to go no matter how sure you are that there is only 1 missing item to go.
Thanks to you, Dwight, if I ever build a pond barge I will have to bill it as a Tom Sawyer/Huck Finn raft recreation. Next to what you are building, that's what the best I could do would look like.
Decking cut and test fitted:
When is the christening of the Bremer Barge ? What about a video ?
When is the christening of the Bremer Barge ? What about a video ?
Why do I suspect the use of a bottle of Corona instead of champagne?
I can always appreciate some good collage work.
3 inch and many smaller holes bored
Bottom up view seat base mounting
Bottom up view cleat mounting
Stainless Steel
So Dwight, are there going to be six pedastal seats?
Gasper Goo always did go better with Corona.
That was a good one, wasn't it? I believe I gufaw'd the loudest over "Just skin im and cook im, I'm hongry."
With all those black spots one wonders if you are going to call it The Dalmatian.
You guys in Minn sure like those 3M products.
ewest, The Durabak coating will cover the black sealer. If you think I should go the Dalmatian route I could get a pint of black Durabak and add the spots afterward.
That is a great idea and design. A mobile fishing dock, I would never have thought of that on my own.
Thanks for your positive comments miketay89!
According to eddie_walker:
It's not how many ideas you have, but how many you make happen.
I would add one word to that (good) because, thankfully, I trash a bunch of bad ideas.
It's not how many
good ideas you have, but how many you make happen.
what's the estimated weight so far?
Other than the oxcellent buzz dude, are you pleased with the way the Durabak applied and adheres? Is it a real thick, roll-on product? Does it contain larger particulate for tread safety?
Brettski, Total weight so far is 1449.6 pounds. Design maximum weight is 1800 pounds leaving 3000 pounds for people, gear and beer
.
Durabak is tenacious sticking stuff with ground-up rubber particles in it for a non-slip surface. It is thick and a special stipple roller is needed to apply it. It is relatively easy to work with, other than xylene is required for clean-up, thinning, and etc.
I used smooth Durabak (no grounded-up rubber) for the frame. That is best applied with a brush or spray gun and is real easy to work with.
Boy, that Durabak stuff is sounding just like
Herculiner . I used Herculiner in D-ski's PU truck bed and it was a similar experience. Same clean up: Xylene. Same rubber bits for tread. Same roller. It also has the UV resistance (I think?). For the truck bed, though, all the work is in preparation because the entire painted surface has be hand sanded to scuff the slick paint job. For a nice clean steel surface, I'll be it would be cake.
Are you familiar with Herculiner? I buy the stuff on sale by the gallon from Menards. I imagine that the Durabak is probably a higher level of durability and weather resistance.
[img]
[/img]
I believe it all comes from the same company, Cote-l Industries. They have coatings for specific purposes. They are all polyurethane with various additives and configurations.
Dwight,
Neat project. When we build our pond, I might have to look into that for the uniqueness it adds. I have one question, and no disrespect, but why are the side cleats so close together? You might have been able to get away with 3 cleats per side - 1 aft, 1 near the bow(?) and the middle spring cleat. The two aft/bow cleats could have been used for the extra 2 you have in the middle of the bow and the aft. Again, just curious for the reason, thats all. Thanks and can't wait to see the pics on its maiden voyage.
ceadmin, Thanks for your interest!
The cleats are positioned that way to match up with the ramp. The barge can be docked facing in any of the four directions. When I get to the actual docking mechanism (I haven't built that piece of the puzzle yet) it will all become clear. One more reason to stay tuned as the saga continues.
I am still waiting and wondering about the ramming device. Texas longhorns , Greek ram , ironclad spar , pickup bumper , Artic cutter ice ram , or an enlarged Branta canadensis beak ?
Since it's not a public lake, with other barges, there should be no need for a C.S.S. Hunley-style spar torpedo.
I assumed the ram was for protection from the wild neighbors --- you know they like to swim. Plus on shore they are a handful.
--
I had forgotten that photo of Dwight's local wildlife. He'd better add an anti-air capability.
The barge, by design, is a quadrilateral oscillating ram with recessed propulsion units. It can ram from any and all sides repeatedly with zero propulsion unit damage.
Holy Crap! I hadn't considered the need to ram vertically.
That's cause
you're not an Aerospace Engineer!
What do you think about mirrors as a vertical solution, perhaps incorporating solar panels for supplemental thruster power?
Is that a speaker box that I see attached to the exterior? Have you engineered extension wires to facilitate removal? This would then allow you to set and hold the speaker box unit on your shoulder with the drivers directed toward your ears. Although many would consider this ridiculous procedure, there are many more that recongnize the hip-hop benefits to a pounding, rhythmic track of Badger-Badger as you beebop and chicken strut up and down the Pond Barge with a Corona in your free hand. Don't forget the sheet of cardboard for break-dancing.
Brettski, Good thinking, except you forgot that everything is wireless out here.
I have a pair of nice waxed break-dancing cardboards if your are interested. Since you are a good friend you can have them for free.
That's a generous offer, Dwight, but my eggroll ain't what it used to be.
Dang, 24 volt. Are gonna ski behind it or do the Cotton Eyed Joe on top of it?
Dave, It is a 12 volt system. The red switch lets you run on battery #1 or #2 or both together. Both Batteries running together will be useful for using both front and rear trolling motors at the same time. Like for hauling heavy loads when in work mode. Most of the time one battery will be in use with the second on reserve.
The barge needs a lot of juice for all the potential electronics I can run at any given time. You know me and electronic gear, Sonar, GPS, TV, Radio, Computer, Cell Phone!
Some may ask why would you want your computer and cell phone with you when fishing. I say, why would you work in your office inside a building when you can work outside on the pond and do a little fishing at the same time!
I'm finally seeing the wisdom in Sunil's words....
You guys really ARE a bunch of freaks.
Now I need to stock up on Windex to clean the windows in my glass house.
Ah, yes. But committed freaks.
I prefer "zealous freaks" to "committed freaks". Committed reminds me too much of the Rubber Room Ranch type committed!
You can couch the word any way you like, but at the end of the day.....a bunch of freaks.
Couch reminds me of the Rubber Room Ranch type couch and freaks reminds me of that ranch too.
How about, "You can
frame the word any way you like, but at the end of the day.....a bunch of
aficionados."
...sounds like a food vendor snack that gets served with melted nacho cheese at the Bass Master Classic.
Yo...Beer-man! 2 Coronas, 2 dogs wit'unyun and summadem Afishionados!
You can parse it anyway you want and it still = fish nuts.
Shop Vac pulling the rope snake:
Rear Box:
Front Box:
All Connected:
No breakers broke and no fuses blew, so far so good.
Dwight my power is out from storms yesterday -- can you come help the power company fix things?
Dave, No Genius, I still worry that the barge will sink to the bottom of the pond and end up a very expensive piece of structure!
ewest, They don't need no Rube Goldberg electricians "helping". Hopefully you didn't have too much damage!
Dwight,
My daughter and I are studying your wire job. We have never
seen a more fore and again squared away job of wiring. We are
looking forward to video of the barge in motion.
the stick
Used up some Discover rewards for a new Motorguide W55 wireless front thruster.
Power swivel reclining chairs next ? Are you going to have an onboard puter that works from a helmet with a heads up display to give visual control to the puter interfaced with the sonar? If you can fix that up I know a bunch of Bass Pros who would be calling.
Just kidding. I can't wait to see the finished product in action.
Spent a few hours fabricating the aluminum mount and installing the
transducer/temperature sensor.
I have a couple more RAM bases to install up front so the electronic gear location is fully reconfigurable.
Dang it, Dwight, couldn't you affix just one stinking thing with duct tape or a bent over nail so's I wouldn't feel so inadequate?
Yeah, I agree. That thing is just begging for some tie wire or twist (bread) wraps.
Dang it, Dwight, couldn't you affix just one stinking thing with duct tape or a bent over nail so's I wouldn't feel so inadequate?
Yeah, I agree. That thing is just begging for some tie wire or twist (bread) wraps.
I will try to incorporate those suggestions into the project.
A little camo paint would add a certain ambience. That way, if it doesn't float, it wouldn't be as much of an eyesore as structure.
More fabrication and test fitting.
wow dwight, hope it floats
i've never seen neater wiring in my life.
couple (probably dumb) thoughts from el dorado....
a) with the power demands on board, did you consider using gel type (optima) batteries?
b) i have a 55lb thrust electric troller on a 16 ft aluminum boat...wish i had twice that.
ok three questions...
c) what happens when you get caught out there on windy days?
c) what happens when you get caught out there on windy days?
He drops the keel, puts up the sail, and breaks out the Cutty Sark.
Dwight just hasn't fab'd those pieces and welded them on yet, DIED. I have no doubt that he can handle it.
Dave,
a) with the power demands on board, did you consider using gel type (optima) batteries?
b) i have a 55lb thrust electric troller on a 16 ft aluminum boat...wish i had twice that.
ok three questions...
c) what happens when you get caught out there on windy days?
a> These two batteries came out of my Bass Boat when I put in three Optimas. I figure I will use them until they die and then proceed from there.
b> I have a 24 volt
PTSv Tracking setup on my 18 foot Bass boat. 82 lbs of thrust. I have the Pinpoint sonar/GPS network installed too. Those Optima batteries make it all work effortlessly.
c> The pond is 5 acres and protected by high banks all around. Even on a 45-50 mph wind day, I have never seen a wave over 12 inches. With both front and rear thrusters running at maximum the barge has 110 lbs of thrust. If all else fails, I'll let the Barge run up against the shore and walk back to the house.
It won't be long now!
Completed docking mechanism ready to install on the ramp
Completed power center cover
Completed rear thruster mount
It got a little dark before I got her out the door. Sorry for the strange looking photo.
Dude,
Seriously,you need to stay away from Brettski's posts........your gettin the disease.
Just kiddin, nice work!
This is the removable hitch I made to get the Barge down to the pond:
Hooked up to the tow vehicle:
The hitch could be useful if I need to remove the Barge from that pond at some point in the future.
are you dragging the barge or using some kind of dolly under it?
Huzzah!
I feel like I should've been there with a champagne bottle to bust it over that honkin' big thing.
That or Sunil should've brought a few Coronas.
Nice job, Dwight!
Sweet. High in the water is good, especially when you pile gear and six people on to it.
Congrats Dwight!
A beautiful example of anal retentive perfection. I'm all misty.
-
OK...to this point, what would you have changed or re-engineered?
Awesome Dwight.
Do you have a cost estimate or would you rather not say?
Hold on there boys, the Christening is yet to come!
Make sure to post the time and date for the maiden voyage. I need to be prepared.
Great project Dwight. Beautiful work! I'm sure you will enjoy yours as much as we enjoy ours. Be sure to let us know how the trolling motor works, because all that poling gets tiresome.
Brettski,
OK...to this point, what would you have changed or re-engineered?
There is one change I am going to make after the water temps are comfortable. The ramp needs more flotation to be level with the barge. I will replace the 12 inch high front float with an 18 inch one. The additional flotation and the additional height should do the trick.
Chris,
Do you have a cost estimate or would you rather not say?
Approximately $ 3000, excluding trolling motors and labor. The labor would probably triple the price, but I work free for me! Actually I don’t think of it as work because designing something, building it and seeing it actually work is extremely rewarding.
Sunil,
Make sure to post the time and date for the maiden voyage. I need to be prepared.
Understood!
Bobad,
Be sure to let us know how the trolling motor works, because all that poling gets tiresome.
You know me, there will be a full report!
You need to bring back Furhead Wheelchock to make the maiden voyage. In case the dock attachment device does not work Furhead can hook front claws on the dock and rear claws on the Bremer Barge and hold things in place until help arrives.
--
Dwight, if I was only there with you, I'd participate, and for free.
Dwight, if I was only there with you, I'd participate, and for free.
Sunil, The shop is heated and the Beer Fridge is ready! We could do some contemplation and discussion until the weather improves.
We could do that, or...we could put your portable wood burning stove on the Barge.
if i showed up to help, i know i'd be sleepin in that shed.
What's wrong with the shed? Heck, it looks a lot better than my white trash trailer house.
This shed thing is such an important topic that I started a new thread.
Junk Shed Exposed!
DD1, there is nothing at all wrong w/ that shed, fact i'd love to have a couple of em....dwight knows i'm just bustin his chops, everything else on his estate is so clean and perfect (right down to the wiring). my wife would wish i take lessons from him.
I have always threatened to paint it to match the rest of our buildings. Threatening something for 30 years probably means it wont' happen.
Barge is covered with ice and snow this morning and too cold and windy to even think about water!
sounds like it'l be a good test of its "waterproofing"
Great pics. I especially love to see your tractor pulling the barge across your lawn. AWESOME!!!!
Eddie
Front and rear thrusters installed and ready to start pumping some juice.
Electronics and a butt-perch installed and ready.
Shakedown run 1 completed.
Barge docked the long way.
Shakedown 1 Readings:
Air Temp: 43
Surface Water Temp: 44.7
Mind State: +9 on the 10 scale
Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' about!
Dude, you were supposed to give us notice. I hope these pictures are from within the last three hours 'cause if so, I may have randomly toasted to you without even knowing it.
Sunil, No royalty would be subjected to a ship christening without a few shake-down tests first. Think about it.
dwight, you really need a friend....ok let me qualify, a friend to take pictures of you and the queen mary, unless you are actually invisible and the queen mary is completely remote controlled..than its o.k...
does the mushroom anchor actually hold it in place out there?
Dwight,
That sure looks nice. How does she handle? Does it move
along well with both motors on full? Does it plow water or leave any wake?
Man I thought you were going to take the cats with you on the shakeout trip. What about mounting the video camera on the bow and making a film while you and Furhead put the Bremer Barge through its test run?
Dave, I can't get Gail to come down by the pond to take pictures when it is 40 degrees and breezy. The barge is prettier without me blocking the view, anyway!
I haven't tested the anchor yet.
Stick, Top speed with both thrusters on full is 3.2 mph. Top speed with the front thruster alone is 2.5 mph. That was against a 5-8 mph breeze. It looks like for most purposes the rear thruster will be idle, as expected.
It leaves a wake at full power, though a wide shallow one. I didn't notice any plowing, not much of a load to get her down in the water very far. Handling with that same light load is what I would call barge-agile.
Stick, Top speed with both thrusters on full is 3.2 mph. Top speed with the front thruster alone is 2.5 mph.
So, no waterskiing?
Theo - in due course one of the Jr. Bremer will mount the bass boat motor on the barge and ...... (make up your preferred conclusion).
-
Fishing course work for the young ones includes skiing, boarding, and PWC aversion training. There is a sub-section that contra indicates gas motors on Bremer Pond.
Dwight you know the rules don't apply to grandkids.
I have been building a few add-ons for the barge.
The top item is the pedestal pin mount for my under water video camera console. The item below it is the underwater camera mount. It attaches to the outer channel on the Barge and allows for locating anywhere on the barge perimeter, depth adjustment,and directional control of the camera.
This is the pedestal pin mount for my notebook computer.
This is the add-on float and mounting cage. Its purpose is to add 400 pounds of additional flotation to the end of the ramp. The cage is a slip fit over the existing float. The additional flotation is needed to stabilize the ramp when people or stuff is standing on the end. It will also raise the ramp so that it is even with the barge when both are sitting empty, waiting for some action.
For rent: Barge Transfer Kit
Dwight, you make my work look like it was done with legos and tinkertoys.
OK Dwight...let's have the truth.
-
Are you anal retentive about pristine organization in all facets of your life? Or...do you tend to focus on the task at hand and the rest of the world will have to wait?
Theo and Brettski, Does this help?
Dwight! How'd you git in my shed?!
Oh, wait.
Nevermind.
Dwight,
Rumor has it the next engineering change will turn the barge into a casino? Any truth to that Dwight?
Russ
Theo and Brettski, Does this help?
That's more like it. You get to live.
I see the components but don't understand the jack on the barge transfer kit. How does all of that work?
Dave, There are two machinery jacks sitting on top. They were used to jack up the Barge far enough to put the wheels-4x4s under it. It takes two jacks, not for the weight, but for stability with one guy manning the jacks.
That's more like it. You get to live.
Zachary what I was thinkin'!
Ramp and Barge are now level. Putting that caged float under there isn't something I want to do again anytime soon!
This is the Ramp/Barge wash-down unit I built from stuff I had laying around. I will admit that I did have to buy a can of paint for the frame......
It just keeps getting better...
Dwight, I have examined the photo and don't see anything that I also don't have laying around.
The floats are 24”X48”-12” and have 400 pounds of buoyancy each. 2 are for the ramp and 8 are for the barge.
Looking at the barge floating there, I thought it sure looks solid. I went back to your first post to see how many floats that you used and what size they are. If my math is right, you have 3,200 pounds of buoyancy. I don't have a clue what the barge weighs, but I'd guess well under this number.
Is it as solid as it looks in the pictures? Does it settle down in the water at all with people and gear on board?
If you were to build one again, would you use the 8 floats with the same weight rating as you did on this one?
I'm considering building a floating dock, and I don't want to spend allot more then I need to on floats. I've been racking my brain to figure out what is the ideal number of floats for a 12 x 16 foot dock.
Your barge looks ideal the way it sits in the water.
Thanks,
Eddie
Looking at the barge floating there, I thought it sure looks solid. I went back to your first post to see how many floats that you used and what size they are. If my math is right, you have 3,200 pounds of buoyancy. I don't have a clue what the barge weighs, but I'd guess well under this number.
I ended up with 12 floats under the barge and three under the ramp. The barge has 4800 pounds of floatation. The barge weighs around 1400 pounds so it can carry 3400 pounds of people, gear, or whatever. That is probably overkill, but since this was not at typical use for a dock float, I wanted to be sure I had plenty of flotation!
Is it as solid as it looks in the pictures? Does it settle down in the water at all with people and gear on board?
It is extremely stable. I did a test with 1200 pounds of people and stuff standing along one of the long sides. It only listed a couple inches. With the same weight distributed evenly across the whole Barge, the floats were 3/4in deeper in the water.
If you were to build one again, would you use the 8 floats with the same weight rating as you did on this one?
I think 8 floats would be adequate as the Barge would still have 1800 pounds of capacity for people and gear.
I'm considering building a floating dock, and I don't want to spend allot more then I need to on floats. I've been racking my brain to figure out what is the ideal number of floats for a 12 x 16 foot dock.
Eddie, There is a lot of information at
http://www.dockaccents.com, including a formula to calculate the flotation needs for a given size of dock.
Your barge looks ideal the way it sits in the water.
Thanks for your positive comments and questions! I hope I have answered your questions adequately.
How did she do ? Who is driving the Bremer Barge ?
Great pics Dwight, how did she handle?
ewest and GW, That is me at the helm. The barge is very easy to handle. It is more responsive to trolling motor inputs then my Bass Boat. I suppose that is because there isn't all that much of it in the water. It is more on the water.
That looks like the maiden voyage and not a shakedown trip to me.
All I can say is that there is probably going to be a lot of fanfare on the true maiden voyage.
If we had such a thing, this Bremer Barge would have to be nominated for a Hill-Billy Engineering Award along with the pier at Jim's Place.
CAN YOU HELP ME WITH ANY KNOWLEDGE ON HOW TO CONSTRUCT OR PURCHASE A LIMING BARGE AND WHAT THE GOING RATE IS FOR THIS TYPE OF SERVICE?
Dwight,
There is nothing as impressive as turning an idea into reality. Your project has been amazing to follow, both for what I've learned from it and my admiration in your skills in building the barge. It's posts like yours that make me think of new things, or see ideas that I never had on my own, that bring me to these forums.
Thank you,
Eddie
Dwight, what's the MSRP? Do they come in turquoise?
Dock Box installed along with two of the 8 solar lights I received for Fathers Day.
We christened the Barge on the 4th of July.
Sunil will be disappointed, expecting all manner of raucous fanfare and merry making.
My mother had a lot to do with making this all possible so we christened the Barge in her honor on the 4th of July, 2008.
Here we are heading out on the Mule:
Mom on the Barge ready to rumble:
I hope Mom enjoyed herself.
Nice work Dwight.
man i and new here i think that this is an amazing idea and it looks like you have mastered it. congrats to you and have fun fishing
LL, Welcome aboard the forum and thanks for your positive comments!
Dwight,
I am also new to PB and I was just wondering do you think you could have your own DIY show on one of the outdoor channels. It could be called "Pimp my Barge". All kidding aside, great idea.
JTH, Good one, "Pimp my Barge"!
Welcome to the Forum, it a great place!