Okay have a leak on both sides of the back of my dam near the bottom. Yes, the contractor put in a core trench and finished last summer. He was very proud of his work, but the ponds water is now not so proud and working right through it.
Right now I have a running dribble (5 gal min est) at the bottom, about 15 feet up the back of the dam and it is getting worse with a large wet area. If I ignore it will get bigger and I guess I could loose my pond, my dream – not to mention the money invested.
Read about a lot here in past posts of different ideas to fix, but what about just lining the front side of the dam with plastic and placing rip rap on top by hand? Don’t know how I can get it down deep unless I weight it down with rocks or hold my breath and dive down with rocks? I am just plum out of money and ready to jump off my dam!
I was thinking about 6 mil plastic in the largest sheets I could find, but I’m having a hard time finding it in large sheets. Any ideas? Is there any type of adhesive you can use to put the plastic sheets together?
I have so much invested in this I can’t begin to explain my frustration.
I doubt that placing plastic would work. I see no way to get a good underwater seal. I believe I would pump or siphon it dry while the dam infrastructure still exists. Then tell him to get his butt out and fix it.
I agree with Dave...I don't think the plastic will work either. I'd get on the phone today and call your contractor who is so proud of his construction and tell him to fix it!
I actually had a similar situation recently on a pond I expanded myself. It leaked badly and was in danger of washing out. For a discussion of that situation see the following:
http://www.pondboss.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000079 I can say that the repairs from the backside on the new construction have worked 100%...the repairs of the existing dam which was plagued by animal dens and tree roots was a different problem.
I packed in good clay, very carefully and very thoroughly with a small dozer. It was a much better solution than draining the pond and essentially starting over...but pay close heed to the warnings of others who said that it may not work. Your situation is different than mine and what worked for me may not work for you....but it is certainly worth a try before draining and starting over, or jumping off the dam
Let us know how it goes.
I guess I'll jump..... not good news at all. What does a scream look like spelled out?
I've read many of the old posts so I just need a sounding board or more advise from you fine folks and I mean that.
Thanks, Lurking Leaky
How much water are you holding back ? What fish do you have in the pond ? You could be sitting on a dangerous situation. If it were mine, I would probably try 1) Give up 50% of the water and try a heavy layer of betonite. If that doesn't work, and you're less than 2 acres, try ML's approach and pack the backside with clay. 3) Maintain steady doses of betonite every couple of weeks and try to wait it out. 4) Dump clay from the front 5) drain and get the dozer back in to put a 2' clay layer back down.
It's not the end of the world, I have seen dams that leak more than yours, 50+ years old and leaking since day one.
Leaky,
I went back and re-read your post...hate to see someone jump off their dam.
According to your post your pond is less than a year old. Most reputable pond guys give a 1 year warranty on the dam construction, exclusive of any modifications you have made since then. Even if he doesn't give such a warranty, I would confront him and say that is a standard practice and if he won't do it, then he has lost any chance at future recommendations.
Give it a try...what have you got to loose by trying that?
Leaky :
Don't despair. Look at the following
http://www2.luresext.edu/aquaculture/stopping_leaks_in_ponds.htm at Langston University. If that does not help then repost and I can provide other info. Thank Theo for the site I found it from him in another post. ewest
Ewest, did you read the paragraph on using "gley" to seal pond bottoms? I doubt you'd ever need to fertilize again after that!
IF I was from Texas I would have something to say about this Okie pond-sealing method, but us Ahians only pick on West Virginians and Michiganders. :p
In all seriousness, I speculate the gley method might be used for livestock watering tanks where the soil itself was porous.
I read that document as well, and was curious about the barite method.
It stated that it was better to use barite than bentonite if you try the sprinkle method.
Anyone know about using barite or where to get it?
Theo , Leaky & scsims :
I will try to get this right. Theo I did see the reference to barite . That is why I used your post reference. Thanks for the info. I think you are right about it being in that post because of livestock {the website references it as part of the goat research extension}. I don't think that matters though it will flat stop leaks.
Barite and bentonite are both used in oil well drilling mud . The mud is used to stop the water based drilling fluid from going into the formations drilled through ,to lub the hole and return drill cuttings to the surface and to hold back the pressures encountered. All of this happens under pressures from 50psi to 25000psi.
Drilling mud comes dry in sacks and is mixed on location into mud pumps. If the job requires greater mud weight or more leak stopping ability barite is added.
I am not a chemist or drilling endg. so I don't know about its fert. ability. I know barite is a sulfate BaSO4 so no nit. or phos. as in most fert.
I once had a pond that leaked badly because of sands in the bottom at the dam. My dad, a geologist got a few bags of drilling mud and barite . We mixed the two with water to form a thick mud liquid { like thick milk} . Then we took a length of 6in pvc pipe with a one way valve {outflow only}. Put the pipe in the water with the valve end near the bottom where it met the dam. Then poured the mud in the pipe. Moved around to several places along the dam and repeated. In about 2 weeks no more leaks. Has not leaked in 20+ years and no apparent effects on the pond ecosystem.
Will this work for Leaky and scsims. I don't know but there are lots of pond dam specialists who could tell us. I note that the ad in Pondboss for a company that stops leaks has a picture of its equipment and it looks a lot like a mud pump system. This post is way to long but I hope it helps. I would hate for anyone to jump off their dam. ewest
I'll say once again...call the guy who built this in the first place and get him to make it right at no cost to you. If he won't and you can't make him, them consider other options.
Don't spend a bunch of money and time unless you know for sure it is your only option.
Ewest: I meant the "gley" fix which is spreading 6" - 9" of "fresh green manure" covered by something to prevent air from reaching it.
I just realized Dave Davidson's right - everything I talk about involves meadow muffins.
Leaky:
ML's got your $ at heart - try to get your excavator to do it gratis first.
Theo :
I did not see that. I will go look. It does not suprise me since it is a goat extension site . But it does have some good info. Now I understand your fert. comment. I would not want to be behind the dam if that fix failed. Thanks for pointing it out. I thought you ment the reference " gel-like barrier" under Barite.ewest
Thanks to each and every one you (Dave Davidson, Meadowlark, Eastlank, ewest, Theo Gallus and scsims). I needed some feedback,,,, very very badly. I know you folks understand how much of our hearts go into these ponds.
Got a call back from my "Pond Builder" and said he will come out and take a look, so we'll see if he can fix it.
Actually, I'm a big chicken and if I jumped it would be off the front and it still has a lot of water.
I'm looking into the Barite, but having a hard time finding much more than info on it right now, but have not looked too hard. But again, I will wait on my "pond builder" first and see what comes of it.
Here is a website on barite:
http://www.factbites.com/topics/Barite
Leaky,
I hope you get the contractor to fix the problem.
I have not followed all the links but somewhere someone should have mentioned the obivious:
After the pond leaks down, you will know exactly where to apply the least amount of mud / lime / glue / mattresses / dead bodies / water turkey carcasses / turtles beavers.
This would be the least costly as you should be able to repack the area once it drains and dries out a little. On the bright optimistic side.... After it drains, you may be able to fix the problem with a shove or an hour of backhoe work.
If the pond dams blows out before it leaks down, rejoice, at least you will have a true target to hit.
Good luck.
Dennis, LOL!!!
So so true, I almost wish it would just go ahead and do the inevitable, but well try to fix it first.