I bought a Pond King Pro boat about a year ago, and was totally delighted. Perfect for size pond, very stable & safe for grandkids. Terrific!

Until the battery needed recharging. Because the next day, it needed recharging again. And the day after that. And... well, you get the idea.

Seems like no matter how often I recharge the battery in the evening, it is pretty much discharged when I come back the next morning. And no, nobody used it while I was away.

I complained to them, to no avail. The boat and battery were fine, they said, so I must be doing something wrong. I even took the heavy duty marine battery out the boat, no mean feat between the weight and all the connections, and replaced it with a brand new marine battery.

Same deal.

I checked my gasoline powered charger, too. Works fine.

Anybody else have this issue with their Pond King boat? I'm guessing the internal wiring must have a short of some sort, but not positive. Very puzzling. Any suggestions?

I would have to look at it all before any suggestion other than get some type of quick connect that can be added where the negative or positive post can be disconnected after using the boat. The next time you want to use the boat reconnect the battery connection. I do this with my bass boat when it is not in use because if I don't the auto bilge pump will kick in after rain events and or I will leave something turned on that over time will reduce the battery charge. It's easy to do and only takes a min to reconnect it prior to hooking up the boat and trailer.

anthropic, look at inline battery cut off switches. I have an alarm system on my big boat, and it drains the batteries. When the boat's stored inside, I just flip the switch and kill all the power.

It does sound like there's a drain somewhere. What is currently connected to the battery? A trolling motor, and anything else?

do you have a radio or fish finder that might be drawing the battery down?

Thanks for suggestions. The battery is wired such that it is impossible to take off connections, such as to livewell, without also taking off motor connection. Hate that I can't simply rewire it directly to motor.

I'm not very familiar with boats, but does it have a fuse box or at least individual inline fuses or a contact strip. What I am looking for is a place to disconnect the individual power users. Should that exist...disconnect one item at a time (per day) a see if the draining of the battery stops. If it drains over night, disconnect something else every day until you find the circuit that is giving you fits. You might want to mark the items that you are disconnecting so that it can all be hooked back up correctly afterwards.

This process can be sped up if you have a multi-meter or a test light for checking electrical circuits.

Is there any way to disconnect one circuit at a time?

Battery cutoff till you find the problem. They make styles for both post type and bolt type connections.

Post type

Side post style

We have cutoff switches such as this on our tractors and combines ground connection

Put the cutoff on the negative terminal.

Most boats can easily be rewired however you want. Use an electrician's fish tape to pull them to where you need. #6 stranded copper for trolling motor. #12 stranded wire for most other things is plenty.

I am betting a bad cell in the battery. If a new boat it should be wired correct and with good wire with little age/wear.

A bad cell can work perfectly but short internally to draw it flat. I have seen this lately in car battery's too. Fuel injectors need a minimum of 9V to open. A bad cell can give you 12 volts then out of the blue drop to 8 volts and the motor dies.

Just a thought. 99% of all problems are simple.

I use a battery master disconnect as stated above on our boat. Drag racing ones are cheep and compact.

Dono, I think he did change out battery from what came on the boat to a new marine battery and still has the same problem that caused him to change the battery. Frank, It would be nice to see how things are wired up at the battery post, so can u post a pic. When u said it was all covered with no way to remove post connections, that threw me, never seen a boat set up to where one cant get to the battery post. Maybe I misunderstood.

http://www.pondking.com/product/pond-king-pro/ go to add ons, there is a picture of the battery mounted in under the deck.

You should be able to use any side post style bolt on inline cutoff switch that setup in the pictures. It'll bolt down to the threaded lug on the marine battery, then bolt down your + leads to the cut off switch threaded post. The switches are less than $10

Sad saga of battery problems with Pond King boat seems to be resolved by two actions:

One, unplugging connection to electric motor when not in use. (Apparently it still draws some current.)

Two, connecting battery to solar charger.

Checked battery today and it has actually increased charge from 50% a couple of weeks ago to 75% today.

Disconnect the positive battery cable and put a test light on the positive post ( if I remember correctly its the positive sorry getting old) with one end and the other end to the cable you just disconnected so the test light is the connection. if the light is on it is drawing power. Go to the fuse box and pull fuses until you see the light go off. Then you will know what is drawing power.

The plastic shutoff switch snrub suggested would be my suggestion. You can go to a speed shop and get a much more heavy duty one like I use on my stock race car. A little pricy but very heavy duty. If you took your boat back to the dealer. Have them keep it overnight and see what you are seeing and have them fix it. Is it still under any kind of warranty??

On my boat the trolling motor has to be unplugged or it will drain battery, even if not in use. If I leave it plugged in it takes 3 or 4 days and it wont start. It has a wireless control box that I think it is looking for a signal and no shut off switch.

Good suggestions. Thanks!

What is a good but cheep trolling boat motor?