Pond Boss
My first post here! I've been reading for a while. I thought now would be a good time to see if I could get some thoughts on the pond I am trying to build. I haven't read anything that is similar to it, at least that I could find.

I have a property with a field on the edge of a woods. I want to build a pond that is great for both fishing and swimming.

I dug a test pond last year and it held water well. I now want to go ahead and dig the full 2 acre pond. Most of it will be 10 feet deep, and most of the sides will be 3:1 slope with 6:1 around the beach area. The pond is in Ontario, Canada, so the temperatures are colder.

I have it in my head that it would be ideal if I could circulate the water in the pond. After much research I have found a way to use air lift pumps to move 3000 liters of water per minute with less than a kW of energy. This is enough to move the top 2 feet of water or so once every 24 hours, and also put a lot of oxygen into the water. I will have this water flow over some planted sections in the "river" area, which will only be about 6 feet deep. Here is a pic:



I'm wondering what people think about this. Our goal is great swimming, good fishing, and minimal maintenance. Any thoughts appreciated!

Ted
If you get extended periods of snow cover and with a 10 ft deep pond next to a woods leaf factory that each year deposits high amounts of oxygen consuming decaying leaves, how do you plan to prevent winter fish kills as the pond becomes aged with a deepening layer of sunken oxygen robbing leaves - say after 8-16 yrs and leaf layer is deep / thick?

1. Why the two appendix shaped sections on the pond? If you are going to circulate water why not have the larger "river" reconnect to the pond which will allow water flow through the river thus enhance the nutrient filtering ability of the planted section and return "cleaned" water back into the pond?
Thanks for the response Cody, appreciate it! Good questions. What do you think is a good depth to go for? There are almost no deciduous trees around, only coniferous, so there should be limited leaves that go into the pond. The pond is also kept full via well, so no silt. So only organic matter from fish, aquatic plants, and the stray leaf. Given this how quickly do you think sediment will build on the bottom? How deep would you go?

At the end of the river you will see that dashed red line. That represents a 3 foot diameter culvert about 6 feet below water level. On the one side of this I will place the air lift pumps. These pumps are what will pull the water through the culvert, and into the other side, completing the loop and adding lots of oxygen along the way. Sorry I should have explained this!

Here is a video of what I want to build, but on a bigger scale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOVZ4oklBFw

Thank you for taking a look!
Air lift technology can move lots of water economically the technology has been around a long time. Back in the 1980's, Elmer Hedlund in WI used it with a home made diffuser in a large diameter pipe to move water in a small stream connected to his pond to allow walleye to spawn in the stream.
In fertile systems expect 1"(2.54cm) organic accumulation per year. Much of this in the deepest basin can be decomposed or biologically processed if the sediment layer has ample dissolved oxygen and many thriving detrivores. I have learned that pine - spruce needles can blow a lot longer distance that I once thought.

Michigan State Univ Extension, Managing Michigan Ponds ror Sport fishing says "Having a depth of 18 to 20 ft is distinctly better than 15ft and 25 ft is even better in areas with harsh winters. Cost can be a limiting factor. If money is not available for at least 15 ft depth it is best to save up money until there is enough available money rather than creating an inadequate pond and a disappointing fishery. The recommendation of 10-12 feet for depth of ponds are based on conditions in more southerly states."

MI DNR - Fishing & Swimming: A clean water supply; adequate size and depth, a minimum size of 1/2 to 1 acre is preferred with as much of the pond as possible having a water depth of 15 feet or more; side slopes of 1:3 (1 vertical foot to 3 horizontal feet) to discourage aquatic plant growth; side slopes in the swimming area of 1:4 for safe entry and exit; irregular shoreline for fishery habitat; protection from storm water runoff which can carry sediment and nutrients.

IMO if the pond can receive at least limited bottom aeration during winters with deep extended snow cover the pond depth does not have to be greater than 15-18ft deep.
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