Putting out a new hunter fish feeder this weekend. Anybody know about how long to set it to throw at first. Fish will come up to feed on hand thrown feed.

Thanks
Pat W

Feed the amount that they will consume in 15 minutes or less.

The feed amounts thrown will vary with the size of the pellets. Unfortunately, every pond is so different, that there's no set clock time to have the feeder run. Your fish will tell you. I know it's not much help.

The 15 minute "rule" is OK but who could afford what those pigs will eat in 15 minutes. I'd start at 3 or 4 minutes and adjust from there. Let the fish tell you.

As a newbee myself to feeding, I found the Texas Hunter to throw out a lot more than what I was by hand feeding. I am sure this is a big variable between each person. Like Dave, who can afford to feed as much as they want? I throw enough out that they seem to hit it pretty hard for a few minutes and it's mostly gone. They will then pick away at it here&there for the next ten minutes of what's left. For the most part, I only do 1 second, but my stocking numbers were light. Don't forget, unused feed will add to possible unwanted FA or other.

Dave has got it right!
Sorry Scott......

George, that's why I put the "or less" in there.

Yeah I know - Iknow....
You also know I don't like that rule....

I know it's not the norm, but I basically use a 20 minute rule. I want 20 minutes of feeding a day whether it's 1 throw, or 5. Currently, I'm throwing 5 times a day, and my fish usually take 3-4 minutes to consume all the food thrown. This has worked well to keep the food from floating to the bank and eliminating waste. If they start eating the food in less time, then I bump up the throw times.

This is probably not the best method, but it works for me.

Al, I would not consider that a rule..I call that a "program" based on age/size of fish, season of year etc, based on observation such as what you do.
G/

It really is best to keep and eye on things when feeding with an automated feeder. I try to get out once or twice a week. Over the last few years I have seen some odd things with our fish. Summer months they just stop eating it and take to the minnow population. Spring and fall I set it to shoot 3 seconds of feed if they eat all that in 10 minutes then another at 3 seconds and so one till they stop eating.

Like this spring we had 4~ 3second feeds and now we have only one at 2 seconds and its just feeding the minnows. The perch are completely off the feed. I expect as the water cools they will go back on the feed like they did in years past. Or just maybe they will stay on the crayfish and minnows and I will be done feeding for now.

Long story long.... keep and eye on it and don't over feed. Hungry fish are aggressive fish.

"Program", "rule", or suggestion, one just has to look at your fish to see that it's working great, Al. Sounds like really good advice.

One thing to remember about Texas Hunter feeders is that the gap between the lower edge of the hopper and the spinner plate is adjustable [and therefore variable between feeders]. A 10" cycle with identical feed can result in markly different amounts being delivered by otherwise "identical" feeders, so specific recommendations about run times are hard to make. Also, smaller feeds such as AM 500 or GFC will likely require shorter feeding times, as a lot more of those small pellets can slip through that gap and reach the thrower than with AM 600 or some of the 7-8mm pellet foods.

To determine amount of feed thrown for any given setting, mark hopper and add weighed amount of feed. I find that 20lbs of feed gives a good average.
Keep record of time required to reduce level of feed to previous mark in hopper. Do the math.

IIRC, 10 seconds on TH feeder throws ~1.5 lbs of AQMX 600 feed.
G/

Thanks George ,
That was going to be the next question: what is the best feed, the fish are all sizes now and hopefully the have gotten a few spawns off this spring and summer,CNBG, RES, and some untimely introduced LMB

Pat
Thanks to the rest of the gang for the input, it does help

Pat, “our” ponds are owned by son Jeff, but I have managed them and written the checks.
Jeff now handles all the pond/feed business but I continue to work closely with him.
We used Purina AQMX for many years with satisfactory results, but when Purina produced inferior product and poor dealer service couple of years ago, we switched to Cargill.
Can’t tell any difference from Purina.

As mentioned earlier, our Freestone property is only 17 miles gate to gate from Overton Fisheries, so convenient to do feed business with Todd.

G/

George1
We are only 20 miles from Todd ! Also in freestone co. Near oakwood. We must be close. If you don't mind telling me what protein food is it or name of it
Thanks for the info

Pat W

Pat, like I said, my son takes care of the feed business.
I do know that Overton uses Cargill feed for his fish and that is good enough for me. Since you are nearby, you might check them out.

Our place is about halfway between Fairfield and Buffalo.
Ponds are in N.E. Texas about halfway between Paris and Sulphur Springs but Jeff picks up feed from Todd each month when he is checking on our property.
George

George1
I'm a little southeast of you I think but not far at all... I will try the feed from Todd's and give it a try.

Pat W

Has anyone ever added a little cornmeal into the feeder to feed the fry, I know in saltwater throw a little cornmeal along the shoreline and go back a little later and shrimp will be all over the cornmeal

Pat

Also are the fish meal feeds better than the feeds that list grains as a major part of their
Feed? The catfish feed seem to have a lot of percentage of grains in its makeup.

Pat

Generally speaking, yes. Some info on the subject: http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=353069

Pat, yes and no. The higher proteins, as a constant diet, can damage a catfish's liver. If you're going to eat them at 2 to 3 pounds, it's not a big deal. The fish meal ones are fine for everything but BG seem to get larger on it. In my forage pond with BG of all sizes, the fish dodge the Aquamax and other fish meal pellets to get to the grain based Purina Game Fish Chow.

One thing to remember. Some fish feeds just list the protein amounts. However, they don't say what the protein is. For quite some time they have been trying to find a use for chicken feathers. Chicken feathers are high protein but are indigestible by fish. I know of a place to buy high protein fish feed cheaper than Purina can buy the ingredients. I have verified that. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.

Thanks guys for the info. And good thred info. I can see this is a very complex issue. I am feeding CNBG and hopefully the crappie will eat the BG . At this stage I don't have any CC so y'all would prob go with fish meal based feed then?

Thanks a lot for the input

Pat W

Pat, I think it's more of an issue of getting quality feed from either Cargill, Purina or other known sources. The BG will do just fine on Purina Game Fish Chow but will get bigger on AMAX. I've never used Cargill due to availability in my area but a lot of others here do with good results.

Some of the other stuff might work as well but I've seen some that is junk that is sold at feed stores. I tried some that my fish just wouldn't eat. I'm no Biologist so I go ahead and spend the extra $.

Why take a chance for the difference in costs?

Dave, I look at fish food like human food. You can gain weight by eating macaroni and cheese every meal, but it's probably not the best thing to do. Most cheaper fish food just doesn't have the nutritional value I'm looking for.

If I buy quality fish food, I can also get better results with less food thrown. To me, this lowers the cost and gives me a better ROI. Why throw 5 lbs of lesser quality fish food, when 3 or 4 pounds of a quality fish food will give you better long term results?

Yep, and if the 5 pounds really doesn't have what they need; you're only filling their gut.

I look at fish food like dog food. Better quality food means less poop to clean up (less fillers) so I think better quality food will leave the water in better condition too.

And as Cody sez "Fish swim in their own toilets.".

It's really a matter of feed going to body condition instead of waste.

Thanks guys then it's cargill (can get it at T Overtons) or Purina. What is the name of purina that is smaller pellet size for smaller BG 3-4" ?

Sportfish 500 (it used to be Aquamax 500) or if it's just BG you are feeding it used to be called Gamefish chow.

Thanks Essup I will try some

Pat W

The GFC has multiple sized pellets to match the size of the fish.

Dave
That sounds like the perfect feed size- every body gets fed not just the big boys... Fun part is finding a reliable source that's also fresh.

Thanks
Pat W

Let your fingers do the walking, and make sure to call first before driving there. Just because they are on the list doesn't mean that they stock it, it just means that they can order it.

http://aquamax.purinamills.com/locator.html

Tractor Supply Co locally carries the Cargill game fish and the catfish but never know if it will be in stock or not. I try to buy enough GFC to last me for a while when they have it.

You can sure smell the difference in feeds that have fish meal compared to the higher grain base.

They are building a Tractor Supply in Buffalo now so that will be real handy. Thanks guys yall have been a great help in this new undertaking of managing a new pond.

Pat W

Ran across something interesting while perusing Dunn's Fish Farm web site. This quote about fish food.

"The Protein level on your feed should be in the 28% to 32% range. There are higher protein feeds on the market, however, they are not necessary for most non-commercial pond environments. Higher protein feeds are typically reserved for production ponds with commercial stocking densities."

I've never even heard of 28%. Lowest I have seen is 32%.

That seems to go against the general PBF consensus from what I've gathered since being here. The consensus I have gathered is that "more is better" when it comes to protein levels.

I've often wondered if it made a big difference of fish being 100% dependent on fish food for their sustenance compared to a more typical pond situation where the feed is more supplemental in nature and might comprise say....10% to 50% of the fish's food intake?

Different fish I would assume might require different protein levels? LMB compared to CC for example. Big fish vs fry? But what to do in a pond with a mix of everything?

Any old threads that address this subject? Archives?

Does bad feed really contribute to a shorter life of a pond? Let's see, on my three acre pond I moved about 1000 loads of dirt with a 12 yard scraper................ how long would it take bad feed to fill up my pond? I feed maybe 20 bags a year. At two gallons a day, how long would it take to degrade water quality?

Please, no death threats to the messenger. I know feed quality discussions can be very controversial, emotional and near political in its nature of opinions. Just trying to get at the truth here. "Just the facts", please.

So is Dunn's nutritionists all wet? (metaphorically speaking, working on a fish farm I would assume he/she would likely get wet for real on occasion and that is not a bad thing).

I try to feed 36% when I can get it. But without special ordering, sometimes 32% is all I can get. Is that a terrible thing to do to my pond? Is feeding what some might consider "bad feed" worse than feeding no feed at all? That is an honest question for the average pond owner that goes into his local feed store and asks for fish food. There is a very good chance (in our area at least) all they are going to have is 32%.

Lots of discussion here about this. Some are older threads....

http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=364201
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=197161
http://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=29027&page=all

The way I see and understand it:

32% is certainly adequate but not optimum IF you are trying to grow larger, quicker growing, fish. That's been proven. However, none of the monster bass in Texas lakes have eaten anything other than forage. So, just how important is it? I'm not sure. I do believe that pedigree can make a difference.

How about geographic differences? Nate figures to beat the world record bass in the colder, shorter growing season up North. If anyone can do it, he can.

Al Hall produces massive CNBG's and he feeds high protein pellets to what I call the upchuck amounts.

I believe that the right amount and numbers of the right forage can make a difference. Fish with high oily amounts of oil can make a difference. Purina uses Menhaden in their AMAX feeds. A fish that doesn't have to burn up much energy to feed will grow better and quicker. Again, this assumes genetics are there.

What about life spans on fish that have been fed to satiation on high or lower protein amounts? No matter what region? I don't know.

I believe that when a fish is hungry it will eat whats in front of it's face. I feed roughly 50# of food a month in my pond, and even tho the fish are there every feeding time, they eat a lot of natural forage in the pond too.

I have a groundwater pond, where water flows in and out with the groundwater.

When the water table was higher and (I believe) not much water was flowing thru the pond, I had a worse algae problem. (nutrients) With the lower water table, and pumping well water into the pond, the algae problem is less, (my SWAG is less nutrients in the water due to water flowing in and out of the pond).

A pond is like an aquarium. Without filtration, the fish are swimming in their own toilet bowl. Filtration comes in the form of phytoplankton, plants, algae and bacteria. The longer you observe your pond, the better you will get at noticing the changes that happen on a daily basis, which will help you adjust how you manage the pond.

I think of fish food like dog food. Higher quality food means less needs to be fed, so less comes out the other end of the fish (or dog) to keep them on an even keel or add weight.

Activity levels change the amount of food needed too. One Springer Spaniel I had would keep her weight the same on 2 cups (16 oz. by measure) of food per day in the "off" season. When we were training for field trials and hunting hard, she needed 2 feedings per day, each feeding was 5 cups. That's on a dog that weighed 30#. Purina Pro Plan was the food year 'round.

From my presentation at PB Cov on Fish Nutrition

Because fish growth often is limited by food availability, supplemental feeding is a logical tool to improve the condition of fish in small impoundments as the energy cost for bluegill to feed on pellets is small relative to the high caloric intake, which can be 4-5 times greater than those fed natural foods (Schalles and Wissing 1976).


Substantial increases in the standing stock of bluegill in ponds that receive pellet feed have been recorded (Schmittou 1969) and, in lakes, pellet feeding has been found to increase the number of large bluegills (Nail and Powell 1975).


These results indicate that total fish production and production of bluegill were each increased approximately 75 to 80% by supplemental feeding in 19 months after stocking (Schmittou 1967)


Previous studies demonstrated that feed in excess of 10 pounds per acre per day in bluegill ponds was not utilized. Some accumulated and decomposed, thus depleting the supply of dissolved oxygen which resulted in fish kills (Schmittou 1967) .


the rate of growth of sunfish can be increased by short-circuiting the food cycle, thereby producing harvestable size sunfish in a shorter period of time than would occur under natural conditions (Carnes 1966).


The pellet size should be approximately 20-30% of the size of the fish species mouth gape. Feeding too small a pellet results in inefficient feeding because more energy is used in finding and eating more pellets. Conversely, pellets that are too large will depress feeding and, in the extreme, cause choking. Select the largest sized feed the fish will actively eat.

Addition of supplemental pelleted feed did not contribute to the rate of growth of young shad, but did increase the growth and spawning frequency of adults.

The immense variety of cultured finfish species hampers efforts to simplify production industry wide. Approximately 170 taxa are currently cultured, including carnivores, herbivores, planktivores, and omnivores, each posing its own set of nutritional demands .

Fish meal has proven to be an excellent dietary protein source for finfish, leading to its description as an ‘‘ideal protein.’’ The ideal protein concept is based on the premise that if the amino acid profile of the feed mimics the whole-body amino acid profile of the animal being fed, protein utilization and growth should be maximized

Lipids, fatty acids, and their derivatives play a role in virtually every physiological process that occurs and for this reason dietary lipid composition and content represent a massive sector of overall nutrition. Nowhere is this more true than in finfish nutrition where lipid can exceed protein in the body composition of finfish, a testament to the physiological and energetic importance of this nutrient class (Tocher2003). Aside from physiological importance, lipids are indispensable energy sources, especially for finfish, which are not well-adapted to carbohydrate utilization.

Dietary protein and energy must be kept in proper balance because a deficiency or excess of dietary energy can reduce growth rates. Fish fed diets deficient in energy will metabolize more expensive dietary protein to meet energy requirements. Excess dietary energy can decrease protein intake and suppress growth.

finfish do not require carbohydrates in their diet, … complex carbohydrates cannot be digested and utilized efficiently by most finfish species. A general dichotomy exists in the carbohydrate digestive ability of warmwater omnivores and herbivores versus the inability of coolwater and coldwater carnivores, which lack the appropriate function necessary for digestion of carbohydrates.

 For this reason, diets fed to these fish rarely contain more than 20% complex carbohydrate

Conversely, warmwater omnivores or herbivores (e.g., channel catfish, tilapia, common carp, and white sturgeon) adapt well to diets containing as much as 40% dietary carbohydrate .

Although vitamins and minerals are required in minute amounts compared with protein, lipid, and so forth, they are critically important, … Every micronutrient has a deficiency disease associated with it, the effects of which are sometimes irreversible or fatal. For a few vitamins and most minerals, excess can be equally detrimental, resulting in toxicity.

Thanks ewest for that summary. Sure wish I could have made the convention. Previous commitments prevented it.

You have another chance this Feb, but you'll probably be south of the border?

Got the texas hunter feeder out and set up:

Wanted to check condition of fish in pond so I caught some grasshoppers and fished a little. The results were not what I wanted to see. I had stocked 50 large CNBG that I had caught from a neighbors lake they were about a lb each. Caught 4 that size and they were very poor and skinny but all the small CNBG were healthy and fat! Could they be poor due to possibly spawning activity( spawning beds visible) or something else. Remember one of my "good" neighbors put bass in without me knowing - they spawned this spring ,cause there are baby bass all around the edges of pond(about5 acres). I don't see any fatheads any more-50lb were stocked this Feb. I am concerned at what I am seeing.HELP!! Any ideas as to what is going on


Pat W

Sometimes adult fish don't do well when transplanted to a new BOW. They aren't used to the pond, and have a hard time finding food in the new environment. Also, if the "new" (to them) pond is new, then there won't be the forage base that is built up in the old pond.

Remember, different sized fish (even of the same species) do better with different sized food. It's hard to get fat when you are chasing tiny morsels all over the place vs. sitting down to a big meal.

Esshup

Do u think I should stock more 3-4" CNBG instead of hoping the large ones I stocked will spawn? Was planning on putting more in this fall when it cools down, also Adding more FHMs to help out the situation of the untimely addition of bass.


Pat W

Pat, refresh my memory. What fish are in there, (quantities and size) and what are the goals for the pond? 5 acres, correct?

Esshup

I stocked 20lbs FHM January, 30lbs feb.
1000 1-3" combo CNBG / RES (80/20) Feb
This year . Also 300 3" blk crappie ( I know)
Last November put several hundred gambusia
And ghost shrimp. The pond is about 2/3 full.
Finished it in late October . Added 50 adult CNBG from neighbors lake (about a pound each),hoping to supplement spawning for forage. Then someone added some bass unknown size and quantity and they did spawn! I see the little perps terrorizing the gambusia . Wanted to add bass next summer after the crappie had a chance to spawn along with the CNBG

Also have about an acre of flooded timber for cover


Pat W

Whar are your goals for the fishery?

Esshup

We would like to have an all around fishery including crappie. My wife and I will fish the heck out of the crappie year round. Bass will be there to help keep the crappie in ck.
But a few added LMB added this early threw a kink in things, so not sure .


Pat W

I just wanted to touch on the 15minute rule. I think that it is probably about as good a plan as any, but I truly believe that right now my fish could eat 50+ pounds in 15 minutes.
I am feeding Aquamax 500 at the rate of 200lbs per month and they never feed for more that 3-4 minutes at a time before all the feed is gone.

It all depends onyour goals. Maybe it should be stated as don't feed more than what your fish can consume in 15 minuts, if they eat it faster, it's O.K. There's supplemental feeding and feeding so they get all their calories from pellets. If you have a pond that has forage fish in it, and your goal is for the fish to also eat the forage fish, then they shouldn't be fed to satiation on pellets.

It may be hard to tell what you will find in your TSC store. Last time I was there bought Cargill 36% game fish (multiple pellet size some sinking and some floating) and 32% floating catfish. I would have bought all game fish, but they only had a few bags and I bought it all.

Went back yesterday and looked for the 36% game fish feed. Was not in its usual location but eventually found game fish feed in a different location. Looked on the tag and it was 32% protein. "What's going on here???" Then I noticed it was a Purina bag and it was Purina Game Fish Chow.

So at this point I have no idea what will be in the TSC store in the way of fish feed next time I visit.

I may have to start ordering feed ahead of time like a lot of people do here on PBF to get what I want.

Also wondering when to shut down the feeder for winter. They are still hitting it now , is it just a wait and see thing or is there a water temp thing

Pat W

Let the fish tell you. If they decrease feeding, cut back on the pellets.

I have found that this is folklore.

What happens if you overfeed is , the smaller fish who are scared away by the larger fish, come in and knock off the leftovers after the larger fish have finished swarming the food and gotten their bellies full.

The other thing that happens is the minnows will consume more than you think. Crawfish will eat on it too. If you have any smaller hatchlings, and/or .5 -2.0 inch fingerlings, guess what?
They get theirs too.

It's very doubtful in my opinion that over feeding by a cup or 2..........or even 5 cups, is going to cause a FA problem.
It is much more likely that it gets consumed. Maybe not right away and it may float around for a while, but they will not let it go to waste.

You'd almost have to throw 10 pounds in there in one feeding, twice a day ( at least in my pond) to begin to start a problem.

If you don't believe me, feed your fish until the larger fish can't eat anymore. Then walk around the pond throwing as much as a pound or 2 on the edges of the banks and see how long it lasts with minnows and smaller fish feeding on it and pecking away at it.

I feed my forage base too, and you'd be surprised at what they can consume in a short time.

Which again, leads me to this.
Why feed your game fish, while letting your forage base starve?

This is the approach I have taken. May not be for everybody, but the result speaks for itself.
My bream were stocked at 1- 1.5 - 2.0 inches on May 17, 2014. Two inches being the larger of them and there were very few that were 2 inches.
Here we are going on 5 months later, and this is what some of them look like now.

Keyword there is "unused". Every pond is different, mileage may vary. We all have to keep an eye on that underwater world, and adjust accordingly.

I've not found that it is possible to over feed and have unused pellets. Once the fish get used to easy living, they will eat more than I can afford.

While I may agree with this in theory, fact is every pond is different. In my opinion there are few blanket statements applicable to every situation. Case in point: not every pond management strategy utilizes a traditional balanced fishery, nor do they require, or desire a continuously recruiting forage base. There's no sense in feeding those minnows to try and speed up their growth if their presence is deemed detrimental to one's goals in the first place.

Also, don't forget that the more you put into a fish, the more fertilizer comes out the other end. There's a big difference between feeding to satiation vs. supplemental feeding.

It would seem to me that the above, in bold, is a much more likely situation for FA growth.
There is nothing you can do about that. It's going to happen anyway. Those fish are going to eat until they can't eat anymore whether it's pellets or other small fish, or bugs.
To compound this, as the fish grow larger so does this particular problem.

That's why I decided to treat my pond like a really large aquarium, which I do have plenty of experience with.
This in turn is one of the reasons I went with a aeration system that is much more than suggested for a 1-2 acre pond.

I really don't know how big my pond is since I couldn't find a way to measure it. All I know is that it's 1305 linear feet around it. 435 yards.

I will be very curious how your pond does once it matures a little. Not quite the same as an aquarium, lots of variables in play. Certainly off to a great start!

Tony, I think the pond is exactly like an aquarium, just a few more variables in play, and on a much larger scale!! Same with backyard koi ponds.

Your aeration system and any plants/algae in the pond act as the filter. Fish in/fish out. Food in - waste has to be filtered out. Too many fish per gallon of water = dead fish.

Too much algae growing on things = reduce the amount of sunlight or the amount of nutrients in the "tank".

Yes, that's simplified, but the principle is the same.

Scott, the principle may be the same, generally speaking, but I might be tempted to assign a little more value to the role played by scale in this equation?

You're familiar with that old saying "It will all come out in the roof"? It has often been my experience that theory and concept make a fine and accurate foundation, but once you get on top of the thing there may still be a certain amount of creativity needed to make sure the roof doesn't leak.

That's the same way I see a pond....variable, always changing, ever influenced by external forces. I believe a pond is at the mercy of nature. I can plan, prepare, and implement for the future, but unlike an aquarium, the sheer scale of my efforts may be impractical from a time available, effort involved, and/or financial standpoint. Not that big of an issue with an aquarium, or maybe even a small Koi pond in the backyard.

I can't help but think of dlowrance's current issue with his pond...a fishkill, apparently induced by a massive influx of rainwater. Would aeration have prevented this unfortunate event? Maybe? Probably even? Either way it's a moot point, as he stated aeration, (understandably) just wasn't in the budget right now. What would it cost to aerate that aquarium, or backyard koi pond? A whole lot less, I'll bet.

In my opinion, it's the economics of scale that sometimes plays a pivotal role in pond management efforts.

Sprkplug what you said and also I've never had a flock of geese land in my aquarium.

Same concepts but you can control light and temp inside but not well outside. Those are the 2 big factors.

Precipitation is a lot easier to control indoors also.

Rain washing in pesticides or herbicides.

Hailstorms cooling down water temps. (Was it Bob Lusk who experienced this firsthand, on a client's pond?).

100 year rain events mixing the water column, with catastrophic results.

500 year rain events breaching the dam.

Tony and everyone, I agree, (sort of). Yes, it all matters according to scale, and yes, there are natural events that can happen in a pond that won't happen in an aquarium.

Breaching a dam - breaking the glass on an aquarium.
Rapid water temp change - see my aquarium temp fiasco below.
Pesticides/herbacides - yeah, not much can be done there.

Light can be controlled in a pond (to a degree) by using pond dye. Aeration, yes, that's a big one pocketbook wise. But, I'm 1/3 the way thru a 3 year plan to install bottom and surface agitation aeration systems in a 19 ac pond. Anything is possible.

Temp can be controlled (to an extent) with a well. Look at what Cecil is doing for his trout. I had a 55 gal aquarium, and came home to dead fish one weekend. The heater stuck "on" and cooked 'em all. The only survivor was a baby softshell turtle that was in the tank.

I think that aeration would have helped with the fish kill. If it was aerated, there would have been a huge "bank" of oxygenated water, and the influx, even tho it was large, wouldn't have had as much of an influence on the pond. That's my take from this armchair, and I could be 100% completely wrong. If it was aerated, no hydrogen sulfide to affect the fish either.

I still think the basic principles are the same between ponds and aquariums (bio load, filtration, etc., etc.) but the scale of the "tank" changes tremendously.

Sprkplug

Pond is coming along ok but would be much better if we would get a lot more rain this winter. Right now the pond is still about 6' low..... Hopefully it will fill up this winter


Pat W

Would the Purina game chow or the aquamax 500 be good and which of these two would you chose?

Pat W

Pat, it depends on the species of fish that you are feeding, and why you're feeding. If you are just feeding forage fish (bluegills, catfish, CNBG) and you are targeting multiple sizes of fish, then the GFC will work. If you are targeting more of the top of the pyramid type fish, (LMB, HSB, etc.) or trying to grow BG/CNBG/CC as fast as you can, then go with the AquaMax. Try and taylor the size of the food to the size of the fish eating it. General rule of thumb is don't feed pellets larger than the target fish eyeball. That doesn't apply to LMB and HSB. They can eat larger pellets.

I wish my LMB would learn, 4#-5# LMB still prefer AM600 vs. AM Largemouth.

Esshup

Right now all I have is BG, CNBG black crappie and an unknown number of LMB that I didn't stock. No catfish or HSB yet. The 50 lbs of fat heads didn't last long

Pat W

Pat I'm going to make the effort to get some better feed next year, having learned what I have here on PBF.

I started out not going to feed at all. My fish fingerling supplier told me a little supplemental feeding would sure boost the BG and FHM spawn. So bought a bag of feed store feed and started a light supplemental feeding. It became habit forming. I now find it stressful if I don't get out to feed my fish. Not for the fish, me.

But I've fed several different brands because one store is out this time or I'm near this feed store this time. Not a good thing. Animals and fish like consistency. But I can tell you that even with hand feeding and less than optimal feed, my fish have performed pretty well. I' m satisfied my fish are larger and in better shape than if they had not been fed at all.

That being said, starting feeding next spring, I'm going to find a supplier that can order in some higher quality feed for me and order enough ahead so I can feed a consistent feed.

I started out with baby steps with recreational feeding and am ready to get more serious about it.

But in my non expert opinion, even suboptimal feed will make your fish better than no supplemental feed at all. The better quality feed should be just that much better. I'm ready to move up.

Edit: man I can sure tell when I enter posts on my TAB without a spell checker. Edited to correct my lousy spelling.

Snrub

I would rather pick yalls brains and NOT have to learn the hard way I would rather start out with a good feed and make things progress as fast as possible. Those pesky bass that someone added to the mix before we were ready just complicated things a little. I just hope the gills got off a couple of spawns to help feed the new hungry mouths

Thanks

Pat W

Yeah, the LMB throw a monkey wrench into the mix. Do you know if the BG and CNBG that were stocked were pellet trained? How big and how many LMB were stocked? (if you know that is)

Esshup
Both the stocker CNBG and the huge ones that I put in from a neighbors pond were pellet trained. Course the crappie aren't. I have no idea how many LMB were introduced- caught one about a lb, three or four about 6" long and see multitudes of three inch fingerlings that were born this spring.. Now I don't see any minnows ( I put in 50#s FHM) and a slew of gambusias. I'm guessing that there were at least one pair of LMB that spawned this spring

Pat W

These CNBG that I have don't seen to be picky about what type of floating pellets that I give them. My biggest problem seems to be finding the higher protein feed . They always seem to be out . I don't like to buy a lot at a time due to storage problems ( weevil)
They do seem to go for the Purina


Pat W

Caught another 10" LMB! Since the unwanted or actually badly timed stocking of bass this spring by someone else this spring I am concerned about not having enough food for my BC since the bass have wiped out the FHM and most of the gambusias. The question is do I add more FHM this fall to see the BC through the winter or add more spawning size CNBG so as to have a larger forage base for spring. I stocked only 800/200 CNBG/ RES this spring. The CNBG were <3" long at stocking now prob5" . Also added 50 adult CNBG from a neighbors pond. Have seen a few YOY CNBG in cover areas


Pat W

I am feeding gills with a feeder

Been about 2 months of feeding 2times a day with gamefish chow. I can't believe the difference in the fish they are fat as they can be and really looking good. Can't wait til spring to see the spawn that they produce. They have grown from 2+ to6" since March it is well worth the price of the Texas hunter feeder


Pat W

Glad to hear they are doing well. Your fishery may turn out fine after all. May not need to stock any LMB at all, with the ones in there spawning being enough.

Water temp down to 56 here so BG are not going after the feed like they once were. Have cut down amount and try to feed just before sunset when they are most active. Don't see many of the larger fish but the small ones and FHM are still active. Feeding will be over for the season here whenever the next cold front comes through and water temps drop some more.

Snrub

Think I still need to remove some LMB and put in another batch of FHM and maybe some GSH to get everyone through the winter


Pat W

Edit: after reading some or the new threads I'm beginning to think that "some" of the LMB came from the twenty lbs of FHM from Ark Pond Stockers! The other thirty lbs came from Overtons. And I trust them completely to watch their stuff .( AGGIE ) whoop. But the LMB that are over a lb. each that is a different story. Knock on wood I haven't see any signs of BH

Pat W

George1
You getting any rain? We have gotten only 1/2"

Pat W

'Bout the same Pat - we need a gully washer!
G/

This was supposed to be one- didn't happen!

Bucks are really moving this morning!

Pat W

I hope all of my PB member pals are getting some of this much needed rain from the system that's stretched across the US right now. SE Texas is sure getting its fair share...

I got 2 inches in Montague County.

2-1/2" in Buffalo yay . Only need 6 more feet and pond will be full!

Pat W