I have three ponds from 1 to 3 acres. The banks have cattails, which I am OK with, then willow trees grow behind them including on the dam. Every year I cut all the willow trees. It takes approx 8 hours of hard work. These willows can grow up to 2" diameter and 10" tall in one year. The best way I have found to cut them is with a saw blade on the end of a heavy duty Stihl weed wacker. I have tried a D&R brush mower but it kept throwing the belt and breaking parts. I have been afraid to use herbicides that close to the water as it might result in fish kill. I am located in central Iowa. Has anybody have any suggestions?

Backhoe works the best. And use it to get rid of the cattails while your at it.. I dug out all my willows with a backhoe. None have came back but one that I didn't get all of. Also I don't know how smart it is to go digging on the water side of the dam this was before I found the site I have had no problems..

Each and every time you cut one of the willows have some Tordon RTU in a can with a paintbrush. Paint the cut-off area of the stump and that will kill the stump. I think now what's happening is that with every one that you cut, it sends up new shoots every year and you have to repeat the process.

Hey MLB,

I regularly use Avocet PLX to kill woody brush and willows around the edges of ponds. The chemical itself is approved for aquatic use and I have never had an issue with fish kill resulting in an Avocet treatment. If you plan on cutting them again, spray them real good at least 3 days ahead of time and also spray the little stumps again after cutting and you will slow down the regrowth tremendously.

Nate

I use Remedy for all woody stuff. Since the trees are on the back of the dam, I wouldn't worry about aquatic use approval or suitability. If you spray as a foliar, expect at least 2 shots about a month apart. For treating fresh cut stumps, I mix 3 to 1 with diesel and paint or spray the entire stump. I try to get this done in the Spring when the sap is rising or the Fall when it is receding.

I actually pull about 50 to 100 every year around and in one of my ponds. They keep coming and so do I.

Nate, I hadn't thought of spraying 3 days before cutting. Makes sense.

Thanks for the input.

another good way to apply the herbicid of your choice is to mix in a bucket and get a chemical safe rubber glove. take a wash cloth and dip it in the herbicide mixture then wipe the the willow from the trunk up getting leaves and all. Do it when the temp is right and no chance of rain. Then after willow dies back completely remove from bank. Problem with cutting first it may stimulate the sucker developement causing new sapling to emerge from roots.

Good idea. They can definitely produce suckers.

Here is a good guide on pros and cons of several methods to get rid of those trees: Herbicide guide for control of woody growth I like the hack and squirt with Arsenal. Carry a machete and a little squirt bottle, see something I don't want and give it a hack and squirt the herbicide in the cut. A proper hack creates a cup to hold the herbicide. I have not used it on willows yet, but it works great in my woods to only kill the tree I pick and not even grass at the base.

I have good luck on Willows and Cattails using Round Up. I just spray the leaves. Should I not be using this around the lake?

The surfactant in Round Up is toxic to aquatic life. They make aquatic glyphosates that you need to add aquatic approved surfactants too.

For young willows, we use a cotton glove over a rubber glove. Dip the fingers in a pretty concentrated solution of glyphosate and lightly grab the base of each tree with the wet glove and pull your hand up over the tree wiping the glyphosate on the foliage as you go. Be sure to wet the glove so that it is moist but does not drip. This wicking method works, but as with any method, new seedlings need to be controlled yearly. Be sure to wear a chemical resistant glove and treat trees that are actively growing.

Larry, I have had poor success at killing willows by spraying the leaves with anything. I use Remedy on the base when mixed 1:3 with diesel. I recall that you do that on mesquites.

Actually Brad that is debatable about the toxicity. I've used Round up around the ponds and it had no effect on the frogs and other aquatic life, and there are others that say the same thing. Just like the other glyphosates I believe it quickly breaks down. I question it is much different than the other "aquatic glyphosates" except in price. Many times the difference between a "safe" product is if money was spent to do the testing vs. no money spent.

I have learned to use my bank willows to may advantage. That is I cut them down every spring and use them to collect yellow perch eggs. By the following spring they are back again and read for use. Beats looking for and hauling Christmas trees!

Dave, yes I spray mesquites at the base with a mixture of 1 gallon of remedy to 25 gallons of diesel. I have had success spraying willows and salt cedar with round up around the edge of my pond, however, I have been careful not to spray directly in the water. I know it could wash in, but that means it would have to rain, something we have not seen.

Like Cecil, I use glyphosate on all cattails, willows and cottonwoods that pop up every year. For cattails I also find the dipped glove method works great to prevent direct contact with water. For the willows and cottonwoods I just make certain I'm spraying on a windless day to prevent drift into the pond. I know I've made contact with the pond, but have never witnessed any adverse affects. I had zero willows, cattails or cottonwoods around the perimeter of my ponds as of last Fall. I understand it's not approved for use around the pond, but if one exercises some good sense and is deliberately cautious I would think they're okay.

I use 2,4-D AMINE to control the broadleaf weeds in the surrounding areas of my pond. I seldom spray anything in my pond but I have noticed that the small willows growing in the shallows of my pond seem to be very sensitive to 2,4-D AMINE.