I plan to stock tilapia in march or april to hopefully eradicate pithophora.I increased minimum water depth to 42" and applied cutrine plus last fall.Pond is 8 acres with average depth of 6'. Any advice on stocking tilapia-quantity-species-size-etc.? Pond is located in Chester County S.C. whitch is in the upper area of S.C. Thanks for any help!

Al,

Do you have info that shows they will eat that stuff? I know they will eat certain forms of green string algae (filatmentous algae) but that stuff is really nasty isn't it? Just asking.

Cecil,

Mac Watson formally with SCDNR has had success with tilipia elimination of pithophora along with cutrine,but I have not tried it yet.I am looking for any detailed advice.Thanks,Al Allison

Al that sounds interesting. I'm sorry no one here has any advice. Perhaps you are breaking new ground and no one has tried it yet?

I have no idea what that plant is!

There are VERY few plants, or anything else for that matter, that tilapia can't/won't eat. The very strong stomach acid in tilapia make almost anything "food" for them.

No personal experience which is what you ask about. Here is some info.

http://digital.library.okstate.edu/OAS/oas_htm_files/v64/p14_16.html#introduction

The previously reported preference of blue tilapia for filamentous algae, e.g., Pithophora over macrophytes (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) did not occur in our study (Tables 1 and 2). In addition, field data did not reveal a preference for filamentous algae over macrophytes (7). This difference from previously published observations may have resulted from differences in genera of algae involved in the studies. Feeding preference for Cladophora has not been tested previously.

REFERENCES


7. D. P. SCHWARTZ, The use of Tilapia aurea (Steindachner). (Cichlidae) to control aquatic vegetation in small ponds. M.S. thesis. Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, 1982.

8. E. W. SHELL, Weeds 10:326-327 (1962).

9. J. W. AVAULT, Proc. Ann. Meet. Southern Weed Conf. 18:590-591 (1965).

10. L. G. McBAY, Proc. Ann. Conf. Southeast. Assoc. Game Fish Comm. 15:208-218 (1961).

11. P. C. PIERCE, and H. M. YAWN, Proc. Annu. Meet. Southern Weed Conf. 18:582-583 (1965).

12. J. W. AVAULT, R. O. SMITHERMAN, and E. W. SHELL, in Pillay, T. V. R. (ed), Proceedings of the world symposium on warm-water fish culture, United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization Fisheries Reports 44:VIII/E-3, 1968, pp. 109-122.



http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/HGIC1715.

new link - http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/other/landscaping/hgic1714.html

TILAPIA

Tilapia are tropical fish that resemble our native sunfish and can control certain aquatic vegetation. Two species of tilapia are recommended for aquatic weed control.

Blue tilapia feed entirely on algae (both planktonic and filamentous) but do not readily consume submerged vascular plants. Redbelly tilapia feed primarily on submerged vascular plants rather than algae, but most pond managers prefer triploid grass carp for control since grass carp offer multiple year control and are easier to manage. Because tilapia are tropical fish, they cannot survive normal winter water temperatures in most of South Carolina. Annual restocking is generally necessary unless a warm water supply (such as thermal spring or power plant cooling reservoir) is available as a refuge where the fish can overwinter. Tilapia are stocked at a rate of 200 to 400 fish per acre in the spring. The higher rate has been demonstrated to achieve faster control in approximately one month. Tilapia do reproduce and their offspring also assist in the control of aquatic plants.

Thanks for the replies.I will stock tilipia when water temp. reaches 60 degrees.Current water temp. is 52 degrees.I will report results in a few months.Thanks,Al Allison.

Al,

For what it's worth I had a Talpia grower tell me to wait until water temps reach 70 degrees consistently. He said anything less and you could get a cold snap that would kill them.

Well it is December 20,2009. After stocking 1200 tilipia in my 8 ac. pond to control pithophora,the results are pretty good.The pithophora is not gone and I had to supplement the treatment with several applications of cutrine plus,but the pithophora is close to being eliminated.The tilipia were stocked in April 2009 and were 3" to 5" long when stocked.The tilipia are now 10" to 12" long and weigh 1 lb.to 1.5 lb. They are beginning to die off as my water temperature is now 47 degrees.I plan to keep my water shaded with "black onyx"and restock next spring. The amount of pithophora in April 2009 was incredible and the amount currently present is minimal.Any further advice will be greatly appreciated.Thanks,Al Allison.

Al, where are you located?

My pond is located in chester county S.C.about 35 mi. south of Charlotte N.C.

Catch and cook the rest of the Tilapia, they really are good, especially doused in melted butter and garlic.

Tilapia are not a trash fish as some would think.

A fresh fillet in the morning with your favorite fixin's, makes a great breakfast.

Try some dill, onions, garlic and cracked pepper, use bacon fat or fry the bacon in advance and wrap the fish morsels in the bacon. Shred a few red potatoes and cook on HIGH in the juices letting it all soak in, once crispy on both sides, a bit of butter then a good half dozen OE, OM or SSU eggs, butter the toast, set out the morning feast, ...

Eat, then go back to bed... You will feel really good when you wake up, even though you missed work

Lunker,do you have any experience in catching tilipia?We have caught some in a cast net and have dipped a few around the pond edge since the water fell below 50 degrees.Any advice on a hook and line method? Thanks,Al Allison

Hook and line in temperatures this cold would be a waste of time...

When water temps are in the 70's and above range(tilapia prefer even higher temps, 80's plus), I have caught blue tilapia using mostly canned peas when fishing in FL. Corn and nightcrawlers are other options I have caught tilapia on. Small hooks and light line seems to work better.

I would like to comment on the study ewest posted on the food study of tilapia. It is pretty much wrong. Blue Tilapia are omnivores and eat nearly anything. In California, a study done on tilapia in tanks showed a dislike for several targeted canal plants. When the fish were placed in the canal, what plants the study showed would not be eaten, were not only eaten, but many were erradicated. I tried to link this study, but my link is dead and I can no longer fing the research document. I believe the study was conducted by UC-Davis in 1974 and the fish released into the Imperial Valley canals.

From what I have seen and have had reported to me from several real world stockings of Blue Tilapia, is that the tilapia will eat the most abundant and least competed for food source first and move down the line of sources as each one is depleted.

Where to start. Which study ? The first study is not wrong as it is reporting facts observed not opinions. Tilapia , like many fish , will eat what is available in abundance (easy to catch)if they can digest it. There are studies where tilapia lowered the bottom elevation of waters by 6 inches by eating the bottom detritus when easy food supplies of there normal forage were low. They will do what they have to for survival if its biologically possible. They will eat whatever they can get to survive.

Al,
any other observed ramifications of the tilapia stocking in your 8 acre pond this year?

There are so many different types of Tilapia that it ends up causing some confusion. When someone asks, "what do tilapia eat", it's not quite as easy of an answer as one would suspect.

For example, Tilapia rendalli (Redbreasted tilapia) are not very well known at all, but are probably the best tilapia selection for plant control in private waters, superior to the more commonly available Niles, Blues and Mozambiques. Young feed on plankton. Adults on macrophytes, algae, insects and crustaceans. Macrophytes, particularly vascular plants and "large" algaes such as chara are the preferred/target food source. In fact, they can rapidly eliminate macrophytes in a small pond in climates where they are able to survive the winter. They are commonly used to keep irrigation canals clear of excess vegetation in suitable climates. In comparison to most other Tilapia, they have extremely high fecundity, producing 5,000-6,000 eggs per spawn. Recruitment is much higher as well because both parents guard the fry until they are a 1/2 inch to an inch in size.

Oreochromis aureus (Blue tilapia) feeds predominantly on phytoplankton. Algaes, macrophytes, detritus and crustaceans are other food sources. Vascular plants are consumed in limited quantities, and not nearly to the extent that Redbreasted Tilapia consume them. In some strains, Blues show a strong preference for suspended and filamentous algae during the first 5 months or of life.

Oreochromis niloticus (Nile tilapia) are predominantly herbivorous. Young fry are omnivorous. Once about 3 months old, Niles aggressively target macrophytes, including vascular plants and chara and filamentous algae as their primary food sources. Phytoplankton starts to become progressively more important as the fish grow to about 9-10 inches however.

Oreochromis andersonii (Three-spot tilapia) is primarily a bottom feeder. Eats algae from bottom mud surfaces as main diet, but also feeds some on plankton, insect larvae, small crustacea and fine particulate matter (primarily diatoms and blue green algae).

Oreochromis macrochir (Greenhead tilapia) feed almost exclusively on microscopic material. Algae (especially diatoms) and detritus are the preferred items. Juveniles consume zooplankton and insect lavae. Greenhead tilapia have confused more than one fish farmer in the past. They can make an earthen pond filled with detritus appear to magically get deeper year after year.

See what I mean? Each of these different tilapias have a different niche. Some of them extremely different!

For example, Tilapia rendalli (Redbreasted tilapia) are not very well known at all, but are probably the best tilapia selection for plant control in private waters, superior to the more commonly available Niles, Blues and Mozambiques. Young feed on plankton. Adults on macrophytes, algae, insects and crustaceans. Macrophytes, particularly vascular plants and "large" algaes such as chara are the preferred/target food source.

Is this species available?

Cecil, I don't think they'd like the water temps in your trout pond!!!

I wasn't referring to the trout pond. I have Chara issues in my biggest warmwater pond too.

They might help with the Sago as well.

Sago and chara are both near the top of the food prferance list for blue tilapia

FishBase has tons of data on tilapia food items and other material. One thing can be said about all them - they will eat whatever type of plant material (plankton , algae, macrophytes, detritus ,vascular plants , insect larvae, small crustaceans , FA , etc ) that is available if the others are in short supply. Preferred food item studies/data have to be reviewed carefully to account for all the potential factors that might influence the conclusions such as time of year , temps , variety and volume of sources , fertility and size of forager.

Eric, Studies making incorrect statements like the one posted are one of the major problems that got me to study blue tilapia so thoroughly. There are so many studies that are incomplete or jst wrong it is amazing.

This is the part of the study stated as fact that was posted that is blatantly wrong ..." Blue tilapia feed entirely on algae (both planktonic and filamentous) but do not readily consume submerged vascular plants."... Blue tilapia do NOT feed entirely upon algaes and they DO readily consume MOST submerged vascular plants. This studies statement is a real head-scratcher wondering where they came up with the statements.

Blue tilapia will eat nearly anything they can digest either intentionally or incidentally while consuming bacterias.

Cecil,
I am trying to find a source for T. Rendalli myself right now. I'll let you know if I can find some.

I changed the link to add the new one. That comment noted is not from a study it is from an extension fact sheet. There is a big difference. The study I posted is correct and provides balance to the fact sheet (more info and accuracy as to food items) and is why I posted it also. The fact sheet qualifies the statement "readily". That is exactly what I am talking about in looking closely at what effects the conclusion. They will eat what is there if hungry. A better choice of words would have been "prefer algae" IMO.

T. rendalli actually can tolerate temps down to 51 degrees, but they require 69 degrees or higher to spawn. In their natural habitat, they live in water that ranges from 56 to 97 degrees.

Ewest and Rainman, you both are right. It's all semantics.

Bottom line is that different tilapiine cichlids have different preferred food sources that they will target IF AVAILABLE, but most of them will eat basically whatever they have to in order to survive.

Now, take a typical private pond. Most ponds are abundant in a variety of food sources on a tilapia's menu. Once they run out of their favorite food, they move down to the next favorite.

When introducing tilapia to a pond with a specific goal in mind (to reduce chara, to reduce FA, to cut down on detritus material, to cut down on vascular plants, etc.), some choices of tilapia may be better than others. For instance, If you have a type that prefers FA, and you really want to get rid of chara, you may not accomplish your goals if you have abundant enough FA available to them to make them happy. Then again, you really only have a choice between mozambiques, blues and niles in the continental US currently, and frankly, these three target pretty much the same stuff from all the data I've seen. They all do a pretty solid job at vegetation control, but according to a lot of the info out there, some of these other "rare" types to us in the US could potentially outperform them in a lot of situations as far as private pond vegetation control is concerned.

Petshops?

Weiss, if you want some T. Rendalli, you may want to fish the Salton Sea or the Imperial Valley irrigation canals.

I have been stocking tilapia now for about four years and have had some very interesting results. The stocking rate per acre is probably the biggest factor in what is controlled in your pond. At a stocking rate of ten pounds per acre most of the algae and many of the weeds that you would want to control are "KNOCKED DOWN" but not eliminated. I made the mistake one year of overstocking because I thought more is better. This was a mistake since almost all of the vegetation in the pond was removed even grass along the edge of the pond looked like a weed eater had been used. If you wanted to remove all of the vegetation seventy pounds per acre stocking should do it. It just depends on what your goals are. At this high of a stocking rate it could be detrimental to your other fish. What is the highest stocking rate you have used?

I have heard that in both areas mentioned, they believe many of them are hybrids, crossing with T. zillii. Of course, that might not be all that bad if they are viable offspring. T. Zilli loves milfoil and other similar plants.

n8ly,my pond is now down to 47 degrees and I still have not seen numerous slow swimming tilipia that could be caught in a dip net.I have removed 8 to 10 dead tilipia.I am sure that most blue tilipia will die at this temperature but I hope that a few will make it to next year.I did remove one tilipia that weighted 3 lb. 4oz.I plan to stock 1200 additional tilipia next april to hopefully eliminate pithophora algae.I have not caught any tilipa on hook and line this past year as bluegills always beat the tilipia to the worm,green pea ,lettice,etc.Still looking for an effective way to catch these critters!

James,my pond is 8.77ac.andI stocked 1200 3"to 5" blue tilipia in April 2009. I have pithophora algae and it resembles sleel wool. I believe that the stuff could be used to make cloth as it pulls apart like cotton.Anyway the tilipia made a pretty good dent in the amount of algae. I want to get it under control so I can fertilize my pond.I plan to wait at least another year to fertilize and give the tilipia time to do their thing.Thanks Al Allison

Al, where do you live?

If you have Blue Tilapia, they should be slow. 47* is a barely survivable temp, but disease will certainly set in soon to kill them. 100% death will occur at 43-45*.

As far as I know, I am the only supplier in the US with a pure strain of blue Tilapia capable of living to 45* and I don't recall selling the to you. Since you said you have scooped up large dead ones already, my guess is you have hybrids. A hybrid Blue won't last below 52* so again, my guess is that your water is much warmer than 47* at depth and they are surfacing for other reasons--most likely to avoid predators.

On a side note, if you stocked 3-5" fish in a mature predator pond, it is highly unlikely more than 10-20% survived predation. achieved results. 3-5" is the prime eating size.

Rainman, I purchased my tilipia from two sources from lower s.c. I originally purchaced 300-400 in october 2008.I knew that they would most likey not make it over the winter,but the winter was mild.I caught one tilipia in a net that weighed 3lb 4oz.do you think this fish was from the 2008 stocking?Also I do have mature preditor bass. Should I stock a different size next year or should I isolate my stocking for a month or two? Any advice will be appreciated.Thanks Al Allison

Al, the bigun' was probably from your spring stocking. Sometimes you'll get males that would rather eat than build nests and they can be real hogs.

If you've got mature LMB, stock, or let the tilapia get, over 7 inches to avoid most predation.

Just one 8 ounce female will produce over 10,000 surviving fry in a season and one of our Arizona members grew a 3 pound+ tilapia that was under 11 months old in a HEAVILY overstocked pond.

If your goals are to control the algae, stick with your current 2-5 pound per acre rate. If you want to nearly eliminate the algae and increase the biomass of your other fish , increase the stocking rate (and size) substantially.

The tilapia dying each year is why stocking them can be a benefit. If they survived all year, they could easily over-run a pond. Tilapia can provide a myriad of benefits, but if they survived year round, a fishing pond would be totally devestated by them.

Rex:

As long as we are on the topic, what size fish will (should?) you have available for stocking this Spring?

If all grow as planned 7-10" with an average weight of 1/3 pound.

There will be all sizes mixed in with no sorting so the smaller ones will get chased, leaving the adults to do the baby makin' thing. the smaller ones will most likely be under 3 inches.

Hmmmmmmm.... I think I'll get the 2nd cage ready!

It has been over a year sense I made a report on tilipia and the results on the elimination of pithophora in my 8.77 ac. pond.I stocked 800 blue and 700 white tilipia.The results were incredible!The pithophora is 99.9% gone despite a severe drought.My pond is down almost 3 feet and 2-3 ac. of pond has only 1 1\2' of depth.

The tilipia are now 2-3 lbs.and I still have very little success in catching these fish . Dough balls,worms,rasins,bread,lettice,green peas,etc.have not worked.Any ideas on some way to successfully harvest these critters? Thanks for any replys! Al Allison

Al thanks for the report. That is good to know.

Can you seine part of the pond - deep to shallow ?

Al, I know of no way to specifically catch tilapia as the target species. However, I have accidentally caught them on darn near everything you have mentioned. And, a guest recently caught one on a small spinner bait.

I caught some of mine on kernels of canned corn 18 inches under a bobber. Here is a pic of one caught - it is a bit bigger that the one i weighed which was 3.1 lbs. A blast to catch and great eating. Have not been able to catch any the past couple of weeks. I think they are staying lower in the warmer water.
Tilapia photo

Ewest,I have tried a couple of areas that we have seined. But,I only have a 30'seine and have a lot of bottom snags.I seine mostly blue gills when we pull the seine.I have had good success with a cast net,but it is a lot of work!Last december we caught approx.300 tilipia with the cast net.We also scooped up 2oo+/-dead tilipia with a long handle dip net .The buzzards had a feast!The tilipia fight pretty good on an ultra light rod but I catch 40 to 50 bream to every tilipia.Still looking for a more productive method to harvest the tilipia before the cold water causes the tlipia to die.Thanks for th reply.Al Allison
















































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Farmer Rick,Great photo!I caught 10 to 12 tilipia in October but I must have fished 20 hours over several days.I have thought about heating an area in my pond as the water temp drops to congregate the tilipia.I know that tilipia seek warm water in large lakes where power plants dicharge cooling water from their generators.I don't know if it would be practical to heat a small area of an 8 1/2 ac.pond.Any comments or knowledge of this being done .Thanks ,Al Allison

I catch mine in my pond on crickets and I'm planning on adding to tank heaters 1500watts at one end of my pond. Here in south Texas we only get about 5 to 10 day of below 32 weather. Most of all the other old times tell me they'll make though most of our winters. We'll just see.

Even a slight difference in temp should congregate the T. Then since they are lethargic, a 10 ft mullet weight castnet should do the job nicely. At least that's how we do it down here.